Help! - Coolant leak

[Teedeejr]

So i came outside after work and discovered a coolant leak under the truck.

The coolant in the radiator is still not quite to the very top, and it has a steady drip from somewhere below the alternator. My questions are:

1. Where exactly is the water pump on a 1998 3rd gen?
2. Is there anyway it might be something other than the water pump?
3. What else might it be?

Thanks for the input - just freaking out cause i haven't had so much as a drip since I bought it almost a year ago.

 

[4Reak Show]

Mileage? Likely the water pump. It's behind the plastic covers, ran off the timing belt. Could be eithe the gasket or weep hole, but either would necessitate water pump replacement.

Keep it topped off in the meantime and you should be able to avoid over heating. Leaks cold like that tend to slow to a crawl when it's warmed up from what ive seen.

Good luck

 

[Teedeejr]

Mileage about 131K. I was told belt and pump was replaced at 105K but i don't have proof.

Would this cause a pump failure or just a leak that won't go away?

 

[jgue467]

Does it leak/drip with engine running or mostly when engine is off?

Water pumps start leaking with engine off typically. Lift hood and watch after engine shutdown.

Water pumps on these trucks are usually replaced along with timing belt since it involves taking off much of the same parts. Luck. :cowboy:

 

[mtbtim]

In the area behind the alternator is a oil cooler line that runs to the water pump near the water neck that houses the thermostat. There's a chance it's just that hose leaking and the water pump is fine. This is a hard area to visualize so maybe pulling the alternator out of the way to get a better look would be the way to go.

Check out the picture below and you'll see the hose I'm talking about that runs from the oil cooler to the water pump.

 

[diverscale]

I had a leak in that similar location caused by a rusted hose clamp. It was the smaller of the two hose going out of the thermostat housing, which goes to the oil cooler I think.

It was dripping into the skid plate then beside the front left tire.

You have to take some hardware to get there, be aware.

 

[4Reak Show]

Mileage about 131K. I was told belt and pump was replaced at 105K but i don't have proof.



Would this cause a pump failure or just a leak that won't go away?

Pump failure is highly unlikely if it really is that new. If it is the pump leaking the not-going-away leak is all but it will get worse. Watch the temp gauge!

And I totally forgot about the hose back there for the cooler. Not every one has it but maybe I'm thinking 2wd Tacoma 3.4's.

I bet you could rent or buy a coolant pump kit and pressurize it to 15 psi and follow the drip. Hose clamp would be sweet. But I have seen crummy pumps leak quickly as well. (Gates as one example on a Honda). And some people don't know when to use sealant and such back there or don't clean off the old sealant when installing a gasket. (Some factory 3.4's have sealant initially.)

 

[Teedeejr]

Does it leak/drip with engine running or mostly when engine is off?

Water pumps start leaking with engine off typically. Lift hood and watch after engine shutdown. :cowboy:

So there was a small pool on the carport when i got home, much smaller than at work. We had a minor cool snap last night.

When i started the truck at work it was dripping kinda steady - when i pulled off a dumped what had collected in the skid plate.

Watched the temp gauge all the way home and its running like normal - no weird noises (even the one I've posted about before is gone) http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/244970-1998-v6-engine-whistle-louder-than-ever.html

When i stopped at my first stop it wasn't dripping and more and when i got home it wasn't dripping and there was no longer evidence that it had on the skid plate. I put some cardboard under it for the night - we'll see what i wake up to in the morning.

Question - Can i just add water to the radiator to top it off in the morning?

I'm running something red (not sure if its OEM Toyota but it is definitely all red).

 

[HiLife]

I wouldn't trust the stock temp gauge on our trucks. It will be way overheated by the time the gauge registers it.

 

[octanejunkie]

If you add water, only use distilled water, not tap water, but even better than water - replace the coolant you loose with coolant!

You can pickup a bottle of 50/50 Zerex Asian Formula (pink) at most parts stores for under $15

 

[Teedeejr]

If you add water, only use distilled water, not tap water, but even better than water - replace the coolant you loose with coolant!

You can pickup a bottle of 50/50 Zerex Asian Formula (pink) at most parts stores for under $15

Thanks - i saw that at O'Reilly, but wasn't sure if I could trust it or not!

 

[Teedeejr]

I had a leak in that similar location caused by a rusted hose clamp. It was the smaller of the two hose going out of the thermostat housing, which goes to the oil cooler I think.

It was dripping into the skid plate then beside the front left tire.

You have to take some hardware to get there, be aware.

I have noticed a "gunk" build up near that location - like its a super small leak that has road dust on it. I need to take the skid plate off and take a closer look.

 

[Teedeejr]

Ok - cardboard had coolant on it - looks like it drips either when it's cooling down or when the engine is totally cooled down.

It wasn't dripping before I Cranked it and immediately got a drip when I started it.

 

[mtbtim]

Ok - cardboard had coolant on it - looks like it drips either when it's cooling down or when the engine is totally cooled down.

It wasn't dripping before I Cranked it and immediately got a drip when I started it.

Ok, you established you have a leak. Now you have to be a detective and go find it. The method [MENTION=127339]4Reak Show[/MENTION] suggested is most likely the way to go unless you want to have your head crammed inside the engine compartment while the engine is running trying to figure out where the leak is originating from.

*Get yourself a Cooling System Pressure Tester, pressurize the system and then start investigating.
*Definitely get your skid plates out of the way.
*If you want more room underneath, jack up the front end and support the vehicle on the frame rails with a couple 6 ton jack stands.
*Get a flashlight or headlamp and start searching.
*You already know the general area where the leak might be coming from but just know fluid dripping from the engine can take a path to the ground that leads away from directly under the leak.
*When you see where it's dripping to the ground, let your eyes travel upward and even start feeling with your hands for wetness.
*You might see a hose that looks like it's dripping but it's actually something above it leaking down onto it.
*You need to keep searching until you found the highest point where you've found a drip and that's where your leak is originating from.

I don't know if auto parts stores rent cooling system pressure testers. Here's one that was recommended to me from [MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION]. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V9L05G/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Good Luck!

 

[01thunder]

Ok, you established you have a leak. Now you have to be a detective and go find it. The method [MENTION=127339]4Reak Show[/MENTION] suggested is most likely the way to go unless you want to have your head crammed inside the engine compartment while the engine is running trying to figure out where the leak is originating from.

*Get yourself a Cooling System Pressure Tester, pressurize the system and then start investigating.
*Definitely get your skid plates out of the way.
*If you want more room underneath, jack up the front end and support the vehicle on the frame rails with a couple 6 ton jack stands.
*Get a flashlight or headlamp and start searching.
*You already know the general area where the leak might be coming from but just know fluid dripping from the engine can take a path to the ground that leads away from directly under the leak.
*When you see where it's dripping to the ground, let your eyes travel upward and even start feeling with your hands for wetness.
*You might see a hose that looks like it's dripping but it's actually something above it leaking down onto it.
*You need to keep searching until you found the highest point where you've found a drip and that's where your leak is originating from.

I don't know if auto parts stores rent cooling system pressure testers. Here's one that was recommended to me from [MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION]. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V9L05G/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Good Luck!

get under and look man. that is the only way you will find it. we can give you ideas, but you need to look. look behind the alt first, if that is where you suspect it is. these engines aren't that complicated. could be a loose clamp on lower radiator hose as well.

 

[Teedeejr]

*Definitely get your skid plates out of the way.
*If you want more room underneath, jack up the front end and support the vehicle on the frame rails with a couple 6 ton jack stands.

Ok - lining up some jack stands for the weekend -I've removed my front skid plate to start looking. Quick question - How many bolts should I have on the front plate? I only removed 4, but it looks like there may have been 6 at one time. Anyone have the part number if there was supposed to be 6?

Thanks

 

[fourfive]

Ok - lining up some jack stands for the weekend -I've removed my front skid plate to start looking. Quick question - How many bolts should I have on the front plate? I only removed 4, but it looks like there may have been 6 at one time. Anyone have the part number if there was supposed to be 6?

Thanks

I think there are 7 total on the front skid. 3 up front on the skid, 2 in the middle & 2 in the rear that connects to the other skid plate then 2 more on the second skid.

I'm pretty sure the skid plate bolt PN is 90080-11373. You could also use metric bolts in that size from any hardware store but I like the attached washer on the oem bolts & like to use oem when possible but the high prices suck.

 

[Teedeejr]

I haven’t got it on ramps yet but it does appear to be dripping from right under the alternator and near the oil filter. If it is a hose or clamp I’m not sure I could get to it to replace.

Let’s assume it isn’t the water pump - can this be replaced without incurring water pump replacement level labor costs?


__________________

 

[Teedeejr]

Well - it's confirmed - leaking at the water pump.

$1150 estimate.

I'll love to see the timing belt and see if I was lied to about the belt and WP being changed at 105K.

 

[mtbtim]

Well - it's confirmed - leaking at the water pump.

$1150 estimate.

I'll love to see the timing belt and see if I was lied to about the belt and WP being changed at 105K.

Dude, consider trying to do this yourself. Maybe you have a family member or friend that has tools and experience wrenching that could help you out. If not, maybe another T4R member local to you could help you. It wouldn't hurt to ask because there's a lot of knowledgeable helpful dudes on this forum.
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I just finished a Timing Belt video so you can use it as a reference to do the job. Make sure to read the video description for part links, tool inks and helpful hints to make the job easier. Good Luck!

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