Help!!! CV Boots gushing!!!

masson74

masson74

New member
So I had my buddy do my lift install for me 9 months ago. He is an autobody mechanic and a wheelin friend but deals mainly with Jeeps. He installed the 2.5 front OME suspension lift for me. It came with the diff drop kit but not knowing what I am even looking for I dont know if he installed the diff drop kit.

Can someone send me a pic of what to look for to know if he installed the diff drop kit or not. When I asked him he couldnt remember if he had or not.

Anyways when we upped the suspension to the 882's this weekend along with the 1 inch body lift the inner CV's just let loose.

My local shop in So Cal says $625 for two new axles. Is this a good price and since they are totally replacing them how long can I drive on these leakers?

At least the lift looks good but I sure could wait a few months to shell out the money for new axles!

Thanks Dave
 

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oooooo noes!!!!!!!! lol

your cv's are fine, just squirt some more grease in there and zip tie them at the tops, just cause the boots are torn or they are shooting grease doesn't mean they are bad, it's just the change in angles squeezing out excess from the joint, due to the increased angle.


that said there is a very good write up on how to fix this with a few c-clips and some grease but it's alot of work, most people just get some sort of pipe clamp,steel zip tie, or something of that sort to reseal the boots at the top.

keep your $689 or whatever and use the power of google!

Let me google that for you
 
p.s. i have nearly 2K with 4 blown boots zero grease and only a minor whirring noise, lol

got a spare set of cv's in the back of truck just in case, $150 for the junk set from flaps but they have a life time warranty on them so think that they will make great trail spares and will allow me to either buy new or rebuild some oem ones.
 
FWIW: The 1" diff drop only drops your CVs ~.5", so the angle is relaly not going to look much different/
 
NickF said:
FWIW: The 1" diff drop only drops your CVs ~.5", so the angle is relaly not going to look much different/
Click to expand...

look for the two big bolt heads hanging down right by the diff if you see a couple of pucks in there you got the diff drop.

toytech ver.
16501d1209527662-diff-drop-picture-031.jpg


everyone else may be a yellow zinc color
33414360009_large.jpg
 
That price to replace your CVs is waaaaaayyyy off! They are ~$85 each at Napa for the lifetime warrany CVs and it takes about an hour or less per side. So if a shop charges $75/hr labor (xs 2 hours), your looking at ~$350 OTD.

I highly suggest replacing your own CVs though because they are easy and it's a good thing to know how to do anyways since this is one of the more common problems that can happen out on the trail. Save your old CVs for backups (you may look and see what it would cost to re-boot them), but even with the old boots, they will work great as backups for the trail.

There's nothing wrong with your CVs just because they are leaking grease either, most likely they will still last for up to several more years. I would put hose clamps over the existing clamps and try to tighten the boot back down before you pay $$. Just make sure the hose clamps don't rub the side of the boot and wear into it.
 
Okay good the pucks are in there!

How do I apply the metal clamps? Does it come with instructions? Do I just clean off the area and stretch the boot and then clamp?
 
I was saying to get some normal hose clamps (like the ones you have on your radiator hoses) and slap those over the existing CV boot clamps. A screwdriver (or a nutdriver preferably) is all you need.
 
I know the leaky cv story well...

I want to take them out and replace the boots, but finding conflicting stories on the large nut size ( here & Yota Tech).
Anyone positive on the socket size before I order one?
I don't want one that is "close enough" because of the insane amount of torque it has to be tightened to. I don't want to round it off.

Anyway, for the O.P., that is way too much money for CV's!
 
What about the color of the stuff coming out?
Mine is doing the same since the lift and I thought it was water/grease mix (hence the milky color)...

I happen to have some of the Stainless Steel zip ties i can use but didn't want to go through the hassle of sealing it up if it was going to be a problem in the near future... I would still like to stop the spread of crap on my suspension parts.
 
topdown4runner said:
I know the leaky cv story well...

I want to take them out and replace the boots, but finding conflicting stories on the large nut size ( here & Yota Tech).
Anyone positive on the socket size before I order one?
I don't want one that is "close enough" because of the insane amount of torque it has to be tightened to. I don't want to round it off.

Anyway, for the O.P., that is way too much money for CV's!
Click to expand...

35mm will work just fine. That's what I have (and have used).
 
topdown4runner said:
I know the leaky cv story well...

I want to take them out and replace the boots, but finding conflicting stories on the large nut size ( here & Yota Tech).
Anyone positive on the socket size before I order one?
I don't want one that is "close enough" because of the insane amount of torque it has to be tightened to. I don't want to round it off.

Anyway, for the O.P., that is way too much money for CV's!
Click to expand...

have you found the cv boot replacement one that was a complete fix?

you should check that out your boots will never break or spit grease again, i'm just having a hell of a time trying to find it right now

as you can see here, where i just chewed some guy out for being an ass...lol

Boot slide mod - TTORA Forum
 
Nates_NW4Runner said:
What about the color of the stuff coming out?
Mine is doing the same since the lift and I thought it was water/grease mix (hence the milky color)...

I happen to have some of the Stainless Steel zip ties i can use but didn't want to go through the hassle of sealing it up if it was going to be a problem in the near future... I would still like to stop the spread of crap on my suspension parts.
Click to expand...

the grease should be a pale yellowish, like over processed chicken or something color, lol
 
theizzardking said:
have you found the cv boot replacement one that was a complete fix?

you should check that out your boots will never break or spit grease again, i'm just having a hell of a time trying to find it right now

as you can see here, where i just chewed some guy out for being an ass...lol

Boot slide mod - TTORA Forum
Click to expand...

Not yet, still finding different stuff. All over the place really. No real concise "this is it!" type thing.
At this rate, all my "silly puddy" grease will be all over the undersides of my truck and I won't be able to just re-boot them.
And yes! you ripped him a new one. Hope he listens....

Do you use the "35mm" socket like Brian does?
No offense Brian, just askin' :wow:
 
Help

I just installed a lift too and realized that my passenger side is leaking too.
1. What kinda grease do you buy to re-grease the CVs?
2. How do you apply it, wont the rest of the grease in the boot just ooz out when you disconnect the stock fitting?
 
topdown4runner said:
O.K., that's what I'll get then.

Do you "torque" yours down to spec, or just wing it? Especially on a trail fix?
Click to expand...

I think it was like 170 ft lbs or close to that. My buddy just stood on the breaker bar and he weighs about 170. If you have a good torque wrench, it's not a bad idea to use it.

topdown4runner said:
Do you use the "35mm" socket like Brian does?
No offense Brian, just askin' :wow:
Click to expand...

Hey, no prob. Making sure is always a good thing to do. I have heard of people using 1 3/8" standard sockets as well, but I went with metric since everything else on our trucks is metric. I have also heard that some have used a 34mm socket, but I didn't want to take a chance of it being too small. It's better to be a tiny bit too big rather than too small to fit on there.
 
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