Help! Flange Yoke WELDED to rear end.

[Toyotayoda]

Hello everyone!

My name is Jon, I just purchased a 99 limited 4wd with 168k miles.

Mechanically it is in great shape. There is a little shake in the steering wheel and I thought it was just bad mounts. But upon further inspection I found out the holes didn't match up to the rear end so one of the previous owners just welded them together.

This is my first 4wd vehicle my other two cars were a 92 Volvo wagon and a Saturn ion.

Basically I want to figure out if I can just replace the flange yoke or if I need to go to the extent of replacing or rebuilding the shaft

I can't belive how ridiculous this is, has anyone seen someone do this before? I mean they aren't even decent welds, this is just completely dumb haha.

Thanks for reading!

too bad you don't live closer, I have a tacoma driveshaft with the good flange you need, would just have to take your parts to a driveshaft specialist to get balanced and such. Personally I would just use a cut off wheel to cut the welds and smooth the flange on the 3rd member, then all you need is the driveshaft flange, bolts and a joint.

 

[marcus clarkus]

On the topic, has anyone else had their flange stuck in the same spot (without welds...)? I tried pulling my slip yoke off the other day and it was really stuck. It isn't super rusty on the outside, but I think corrosion between the flanges has to be the issue. I gave it a few whacks with a hammer (after removing the bolts) and it didn't budge. Any advice on how to remove it? [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] made it look so easy haha

 

[TheDurk]

On the topic, has anyone else had their flange stuck in the same spot (without welds...)? I tried pulling my slip yoke off the other day and it was really stuck. It isn't super rusty on the outside, but I think corrosion between the flanges has to be the issue. I gave it a few whacks with a hammer (after removing the bolts) and it didn't budge. Any advice on how to remove it? [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] made it look so easy haha

The first time I took mine off was a fight. It's not so much the flanges as the ring on the yoke that gets pressed into the hole in the diff flange. The usual combo of baptism with PB Blaster, prybar and whacks from a BFH got it loose. After that, I keep it then slathered with Anti-Seize and it's a lot easier.

 

[Sokol]

What is your axle code on the door frame? It should read A03A or close to that. Does it have a locker? Did you do a spin test to check the gearing? It sounds like some one tossed in a used one from somewhere, but things did not match up almost like it was not from a 4runner

It does have a rear locker. And I haven't done a spin test yet. Here I actually took a pic of this earlier.

 

[Sokol]

Holy F$%^ you seriously jumped into it with both feet. Your taking some of the blame as expected. You are going to have some money and time to invest just to get this thing driveable.

If you decide to keep going with it you will learn a lot and be better for it. If you decide to dump it...you have learned a lot and will be better for it. So, in a way you are a WINNER!! LOL...just trying to cheer you up a little.

I'll keep it. Hopefully learn a lot from it, definitely learned to check every little detail when buying private. The guy was really cool too, it was too good to be true. Hahaa

 

[Scramble]

It does have a rear locker. And I haven't done a spin test yet. Here I actually took a pic of this earlier.

Ouch! I just hurt my neck trying to read that!

This would be good time to update both diffs with 4.88's if you plan on getting bigger tires.

 

[hyken]

I knew it! Re-gear that puppy with what you want! Make an opportunity out of chaos. If you're going to take apart the differential anyway, take a peek and see whats stamped on the pinion and ring gear to see whats actually in it. Although it seems the general consensus is that its just a wrong yoke flange...

 

[MandAtaco]

Wow! Thats amazing! Grind it off and get the right stuff!

 

[Sokol]

I knew it! Re-gear that puppy with what you want! Make an opportunity out of chaos. If you're going to take apart the differential anyway, take a peek and see whats stamped on the pinion and ring gear to see whats actually in it. Although it seems the general consensus is that its just a wrong yoke flange...

I was planning on re gearing anyway bc the 4wd is acting up. I wonder how much it will he to re gear and replace that flange? 1200 or more all together? I've never re geared anything haha.

 

[Sokol]

Ouch! I just hurt my neck trying to read that!

This would be good time to update both diffs with 4.88's if you plan on getting bigger tires.

Haha sorry about that!

What's the benefit of 4.88s with larger tires?

I'm actually planning on keeping it close to stock. 75r16s with a 1 maybe 2 inch bilstein lift and level it out. I already have the tall coils. Need new struts and what not soon so why not haha only 300 something bucks. Don't want to mess with my mpgs too much and off roading will be just occasional.

 

[St Runner]

A04A is normally 4.3 gearing and a locker. Do a spin test on the rear end and see what you actually have in there. Its better to know what you actually have in there before you go forward with any regearing. You should also check the front gearing too though its less likely that has been changed

 

[hyken]

I've never re-geared my 4Runner, but typically the lower the gear (like 4.88 versus stock 4.10) the slower the crawl speed, the higher the RPMs at highway speeds. Gear ratio also needs to be proportionate to your wheel size or you'll run into serious problems.

Like others have said, 4.10 is standard for ones without lockers, 4.30 is standard for locked Runners. If you plan on going back with stock tires, I would just stick with those gearings, as anything else will really screw with your mpg (or maybe that's not an issue for you).

 

[reelamin]

It may of had a locker, but that does not mean it does now. Should be plain as day if it has a locker or not. I was not aware Toyota put a locked diff, or a clutch style locker only E Lockers in the 4 Runner. Could have but I thought all were the E Lockers on Gen 3's.

 

[Sokol]

A04A is normally 4.3 gearing and a locker. Do a spin test on the rear end and see what you actually have in there. Its better to know what you actually have in there before you go forward with any regearing. You should also check the front gearing too though its less likely that has been changed

Will do! Just gotta wait for this storm to pass out here in SoCal. Pretty good one for Cali. Already some bad flooding, fallen trees and telephone poles.

 

[marcus clarkus]

The first time I took mine off was a fight. It's not so much the flanges as the ring on the yoke that gets pressed into the hole in the diff flange. The usual combo of baptism with PB Blaster, prybar and whacks from a BFH got it loose. After that, I keep it then slathered with Anti-Seize and it's a lot easier.

Nice, thanks for the advice. I gave it a light dousing of PB Blaster before but I'll try a full on baptism this time.

 

[Sokol]

Hey guys I just did a spin test I had 38 DS rotations to 20 tire rotations. I can't find what ratio it would be.

I saw one guy who had 45 rotations equalling 4.56 do i have around 3.80?! I read that my model with the rear diff should be 4.10 4.30 or 4.56?

 

[St Runner]

Gearing also comes in a 3.9 which is A020 It sounds to me like some one tried to keep the locker but put in a different rear diff. Check the gearing on the front diff. I will bet that the gearing is 4.3 on the front, which would also explain why your 4wd is working at different speeds with the front and rear. This can all be corrected with the proper rear diff.

 

[Sokol]

Gearing also comes in a 3.9 which is A020 It sounds to me like some one tried to keep the locker but put in a different rear diff. Check the gearing on the front diff. I will bet that the gearing is 4.3 on the front, which would also explain why your 4wd is working at different speeds with the front and rear. This can all be corrected with the proper rear diff.

Awesome thank you! I think I have to replace my oil pan gasket anyways which requires moving the diff I believe so I will check it out then. I think I will be purchasing an assembled third from east coast gear supply once I figure out the the front gearing.

 

[Sokol]

Gearing also comes in a 3.9 which is A020 It sounds to me like some one tried to keep the locker but put in a different rear diff. Check the gearing on the front diff. I will bet that the gearing is 4.3 on the front, which would also explain why your 4wd is working at different speeds with the front and rear. This can all be corrected with the proper rear diff.

So I just calculated my mpg... 13.84 haha sound about right for having 3.90 with 265 70 16?

 

[St Runner]

I am the worst person to answer this question as I have never calculated my gas milage ever, in any vehicle I have owned. You really need to check the front diff for its gearing to get a better idea of what is going on. What is interesting with your rear diff is I have never heard of 3.9 gearing with a locker on a 4runner. Maybe it came out of a tacoma