Help! Got a FIX IT ticket - Left Brake Light wont go BRIGHT when braking

[tristero]

wait so is its BRIGHT or DIM?

Seriously OP, did you read the threads linked? They explain exactly the problem your having and what was done to fix it.....:whipping2

Stop capitalizing bright and dim, we get it

lol

Just get his address so you can fix it for him :wof:

On my way OP! :zoom: just pick me up at the airport

Seriously though, I feel for you OP, it sucks and it was super frustrating. I did everything mentioned in the link threads to no avail. I'm pretty sure issue is the lead to the socket, since you can clean and reset the prongs and have it work for a few weeks.

It would work fine until an outing where it get's bounced around on a trail, and then you're driving home on a dark mountain road and you can see your brake light not working after all that bullsh*t.

I "fixed it" a total of 3 times before I gave up and just bought 2014+ tail lamp assemblies. I'd rather be out $300 and have a working brake light than keep dealing with the poor design on the early 5th gen assembly.

 

[rigtec]

thank you. Reading through these I can’t didnt any that seem to represent my symptoms. All of these seem to be for a light that doesn’t light AT ALL versus lit DIM but not going BRIGHT upon braking.

...not for nothing, but you either have a "poor ground" or NO Ground at all! With a POOR Ground, it will behave just as you've described; lighting some, but poorly! And with NO Ground, you will NOT have ANY BRAKE LIGHT AT ALL!

I might suggest again that you use a test light and connect it to a 'Known' operational ground! Connect the other end (Pointed Tip) to the BLUE wire (piercing the wire itself), which is your BRAKE LAMP circuit.

You can have someone step on the brake pedal or just turn-on the 'HAZARDS' (Same bulb filament)! If the test light projects it's full luminescent capacity, the trouble is likely your ground in that socket because now you're using a proven ground.

If it's still a problem, connect the test light (alligator clip end) to a 'Known' 'HOT' power source... again, like the 12V power charging station in the cargo area (tape the clip so as not to short out the circuit).

Now touch the socket terminal adjacent to the WHITE wire with the BLK stripe; that's the ground. If it works 'as it should' now, the trouble is the 'HOT' Terminal in the socket... ya follow me(?)! And that's it! Please let us know how you make out as this is a common issue with the Gen 5 4Runners! ...just don't let this small issue intimidate you, you'll get it! 'Best to you',

rig

 

[Engineer]

...not for nothing, but you either have a "Bad ground or NO Ground at all! With a POOR Ground, it will behave just as you've described; lighting some, but poorly! And with NO Ground, you will NOT have ANY BRAKE LIGHT AT ALL!

I might suggest again that you use a test light and connect it to a 'Known' operational ground! Connect the other end (Pointed Tip) to the BLUE wire (piercing the wire itself), which is your BRAKE LAMP circuit.

You can have someone step on the brake pedal or just turn-on the 'HAZARDS' (Same bulb filament)! If the test light projects it's full luminescent capacity, the trouble is likely your ground in that socket because now you're using a proven ground.

If it's still a problem, connect the test light (alligator clip end) to a 'Known' 'HOT' power source... again, like the 12V power charging station in the cargo area (tape the clip so as not to short out the circuit).

Now touch the socket terminal adjacent to the WHITE wire with the BLK stripe; that's the ground. If it works 'as it should' now, the trouble is the 'HOT' Terminal in the socket... ya follow me(?)! And that's it! Please let us know how you make out as this is a common issue with the Gen 5 4Runners! ...just don't let this small issue intimidate you, you'll get it! 'Best to you',

rig

Does electricity fear you?

 

[rigtec]

Does electricity fear you?

...only when it misbehaves,

rig, cheers, LOL!

 

[flyrv9]

There is a history of tail / brake light problems on some T4R's due to a bad crimp of the wires at the socket.

I suggest you use your meter and see what voltage you get at the socket with the bulb removed. Take readings for both tail and brake lights. If you brake light is dim (but works) on that side you probably have a bad crimp or a partially broken wire somewhere; which will result in a low voltage reading - probably 9 or 10 volts instead of 12. I just had this problem on my old Nissan pick-up. R/H tail light wouldn't work. A check revealed only 8V. Found the wire partially broken where it was secured to the frame.

 

[Tisoy281]

Had the same issue with my 2011 when it was still under warranty. They ended up having to change out the whole light housing assembly, as it was something on the inside electric board that was bad. It happened a couple times after replacement as well, and I just went in and wiggled the bulb and the wire harness on the side and it worked fine. Definitely check the harness.

 

[Agent_Outside]

I recently had the drivers side go out. I traced it to the light assembly itself and then swapped to ‘14+ OEM tails.

 

[pobando]

Sandpaper

I had the exact same thing happen. Rear marker light would work, but brake light would not when pushing the brake pedal.
I read the links provided earlier and ended up using a bit of 400 grit sandpaper to scuff the contacts.
Super easy, 5 mins tops and it lasted more than 1 year.

 

[mizznfizz]

I had the exact same thing happen. Rear marker light would work, but brake light would not when pushing the brake pedal.
I read the links provided earlier and ended up using a bit of 400 grit sandpaper to scuff the contacts.
Super easy, 5 mins tops and it lasted more than 1 year.

Guess I am one of the lucky ones that requires the removal of the wire because it is loose at the pin/harness connector. Got a pin tool coming so hopefully that will be able to fix my particular issue.

 

[Jasonblu]

FIXED! Thank You!

What I did:

1) Wedged down the brake pedal with screwdriver. Confirmed left light not lit BRIGHT. Turned car off.
2) Popped off back left cover using flathead screwdriver in small tab (lower right).
3) Removed two (2) 10mm nuts with deep socket and extension.
4) Popped lens assembly off truck. (Just jiggleitalittlebit)
5) Depressed tab and unplugged wiring harness from lens assy.
6) Removed all three twist lock light bulb housings.
7) Noted arcs of black carbon (corresponding to the silver dimpled on the lens housings) on some gold contacts on main lens assy. Lightly Rubbed these gold contacts clean with fine grit sandpaper. Sprayed clean with electrical contact solvent.
8) On each twist lock lightbulb housing I lifted (ever so slightly) each dimpled silver tab to increase tension when twist locked back down. Sanded these just a tad too.
9) Plugged wiring harness back. Turned on running lights - causing BRIGHT brake light to come on. Yay!

In my case it was either the carbon or a loose/disconnected dimple to contact tab. Since I shotgunned it, I don't know which was the offending contact.

Bacon saved. Thanks again y’all!

PICS if'n you want em.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0f5ON9t36Xmwp;EF52471F-5B20-4E4D-B1CD-0BE02B4C59EB

 

[Cndnmax]

What I did:

1) Wedged down the brake pedal with screwdriver. Confirmed left light not lit BRIGHT. Turned car off.
2) Popped off back left cover using flathead screwdriver in small tab (lower right).
3) Removed two (2) 10mm nuts with deep socket and extension.
4) Popped lens assembly off truck. (Just jiggleitalittlebit)
5) Depressed tab and unplugged wiring harness from lens assy.
6) Removed all three twist lock light bulb housings.
7) Noted arcs of black carbon (corresponding to the silver dimpled on the lens housings) on some gold contacts on main lens assy. Lightly Rubbed these gold contacts clean with fine grit sandpaper. Sprayed clean with electrical contact solvent.
8) On each twist lock lightbulb housing I lifted (ever so slightly) each dimpled silver tab to increase tension when twist locked back down. Sanded these just a tad too.
9) Plugged wiring harness back. Turned on running lights - causing BRIGHT brake light to come on. Yay!

In my case it was either the carbon or a loose/disconnected dimple to contact tab. Since I shotgunned it, I don't know which was the offending contact.

Bacon saved. Thanks again y’all!

PICS if'n you want em.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0f5ON9t36Xmwp;EF52471F-5B20-4E4D-B1CD-0BE02B4C59EB

Both, you don’t get arcing with a tight connections.

 

[Jasonblu]

Both, you don’t get arcing with a tight connections.

Heh. Good point. But for sake of conversation, why were their dark ARCS and not just dark DOTS directly underneath each loose dimple if it’s caused by arcing. It’s not like the twist lock housings rotate around on their own over time—-or do they?

 

[rigtec]

Heh. Good point. But for sake of conversation, why were their dark ARCS and not just dark DOTS directly underneath each loose dimple if it’s caused by arcing. It’s not like the twist lock housings rotate around on their own over time—-or do they?

...I knew you'd find the trouble!!!

rig, Cheers!

 

[4RnR Grl]

Same problem on my 2013 about 3 years ago. I bought LED bulbs from super bright LED (not the newer housing/only bulbs), and haven't had the problem since. Lights have been out of the mounts countless times and plenty of jostling on trips. Maybe I just got lucky.

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