HELP im at my wits end with my daily driver.

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fuel pump is only getting power when cranking, probably ignition switch. It is firing until it uses the rail pressure.

I ran into the same problem on my old 4runner with a electric in tank pump. I ended up running 12v switched to the fuel pump wire. That way it had power cranking and in the run position.

Put 12v constant to the fuel pump, i bet it runs.
 
i have a inline fuel pump with a dip tube and a clear fuel filter its getting full flow all the back to the tank.

COP Circuit opening relay
the afm is good and is sending signal
if i give it gas it wont run at all
plugs and wires all good. ignition is all set up right.

im one week away from scrapping the hole truck for this
 
i have a inline fuel pump with a dip tube and a clear fuel filter its getting full flow all the back to the tank.

(Key run engine off) is the fuel pump running?

(Key Start) you are getting fuel as you should and it does fire for that intial second or two. Im guessing you can do this over and over again with the same results?
 
One more thing, you said inline pump. Are you trying to pull through the in-tank pump without using it?
 
no removed in tank pump and made a suction base with screen did this 2 years ago and it worked fine for 2 years. i thought maybe the fuel pump was turning off so i hot wired it and made it run constant while this starting issue was going on.
still no results from it.
 
well crap, looks like your on the hunt for one wire that is bad.

check for vacuum leaks around your intake tube, hell everywhere for that matter.

Maybe bad coil, igniter. I listened to the video and i know you are getting fuel, air and spark but one of those is shutting down after you let go of the starter. You ruled out fuel already. Unless you have holes in your intake somewhere, i would start testing ignition (everything). Test it while cranking, not just resting tests.

I told you to truck that thing down here. Should have listened to me weeks ago.
 
Here's a long shot...clean out ur TB? But u said if u hold down the gas it wont run so that's probably not it....
 
Even though all your EFI components tested good, I would almost be willing to bet that you have a bad wire somewhere between one of your sensors and your ECU. I think that Nate mentioned this earlier.

Bear with me here, allow me to think out loud. I may be way off the reservation here but it's an idea. What does the ECU use (EFI components wise) for starting? Then what does the ECU use for normal operation? I'm thinking that once the ECU switches from start to normal operation is when the ECU kills the motor.

For example: Let's say that your ECU does not care what your TPS is saying during start. So your motor starts just fine. But once your ECU sees that your engine is running, the ECU switches to normal operation mode. Then your ECU looks for a TPS signal. It does not get one so the ECU kills all operations.

I know that you said all your EFI components are good and they all may be. But if you have a bad wire between one of the components and the ECU then your ECU won't care if that component is good or not because it will not get a good signal from it.

I may be off a little bit on this but I have heard a few times before that there are certain sensors that the ECU doesn't even look for during start up.

I would get your multimeter and your pin-out diagram for your ECU and start chasing wires. Make sure that you have good continuity between all associated wires. Check your grounds too.

Just a thought...
 
Kind of a longshot but, along time ago I had a 77 celiac that would run great, it just refused to idle. In the the fusebox was a tiny fuse that was labeled engine, it was blown. Replaced it and it ran great. Dunno if these newer (than 77) Toys still have them but worth a shot.
 
no worries its decided this things getting a chevy engine.
anyone want a 22re with 167,000 miles new head gasket and HD timing set?
 

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