Help! I'm freezing

I

ibrick

New member
97 runner, 3.4 and very little heat to cab.

Heard a gurgling noise behind dash a few months ago but didn't think anything about it.

Thermostat has been replaced, good temp on gauge, back flushed twice, hoses are hot going to heater core warm coming out, temp valve on firewall just before hose goes to heater core slides and works like it should, lifted drivers side 3' in hope of burping possible air lock....nothing

Gets sort of warm, not hot, what am I missing?

Can I reverse the hoses going to the core or will this cause more problems?

Thanks
 
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You haven't mentioned if the mechanism at the knob on the dash that controls the heat is doing it's job. When I first bought my '00, the dealer had to fix mine because it was binding somehwere.
 
sounds like an air bubble, it happens alot in cars when the coolant is replaced, you just need to drain then fill the radiarot again, but make sure the system burps, and that will let all the air out. try puting the truck on a hill with the engine up as high as ou can so the air will go to the top of the radiator cap.
 
Thanks for the quick replys,

Nuke- I got the slider temp control on the 97 and it works easily. With the no heat setting, the hose from the black valve that's attached to the firewall (top center) gets cold before going through the firewall to the heater core. When I slide the temp control to heat that same hose gets hot, so I think that's all ok.

shootmymime- Lifting the drivers side 3' while running from cold to hot with the rad cap removed saw a lot of air burp, and gave me the minimal heat I have now from no heat at all. I'll give your way with the front up a try to see if it helps.

Thanks again.
 
I had this problem starting last spring, went through summer before got fixed (no need for heat in summer).

Turns out it was the heater box (i didn't know they existed, I thought of only heater core) but dealer said heater box. Apparently it's the box in the truck that determines where heat goes with the little flaps. Mine had somehow broken and wasn't allowing any heat to be blown into the cab. The slide on the dash worked fine, but this thing in the dash had broke.

At first I was releived as I thought that this would be cheaper than heater core but turns out that it was probably just as much as they have to rip apart the whole dash to fix it. I let them at it as I don't have the time to do it and it set me back $1600 Canadian, ouch!

Hope that's not it for you but might give you another option. Dealer did the searching so only thing I could say for a check is that my rear heater still worked, but dash blew cold air. For temporary fix I just cranked up the back seat heater to get a bit of warmth but that was in fall and not full on winter so that may not be enough for you depening on where you live.
 
Thanks gptoy96,

$1600, ouch!

Anybody know where I can find a link that shows how to get to that heater box?
 
yeah the flaps in the box! we replace those all the time in dodges, its a door the changes direction of air flow, i will look and see if i can show you a diagram...
Apparently it's the box in the truck that determines where heat goes with the little flaps.[/QUOTE i 2nd that

the doors that say "air mix dampener" those doors are shown as heat going threw, but yours are closed

79346692


79349838
79346693
Click to expand...
 
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I wish I would've found this site earlier. Sounds like you could've saved me alot of money shootmymime.

Labour was $1000 of that bill!

Note to self.... check here first next time.
 
yes alot of work is required! i have seen guys at the shop replace them and i have rplaced my whole box in my mustang, it will take a few days for a slow person.
 
79348717
1. REMOVE THESE PARTS:

Center console cover
Center cluster finish panel
A/C control knobs
A/C switch
A/C control panel
Glove compartment parts
Instrument lower finish panel

79348718
2. DISCONNECT A/C CONTROL CABLES

Disconnect the air inlet control cable from blower unit.
Disconnect the air mix control cable from heater unit.
Disconnect the mode control cable from heater unit.
Disconnect the water valve control cable from water valve.

79348719
3. REMOVE A/C CONTROL ASSEMBLY
Remove the screw and pull out the A/C control assembly, then disconnect the connector.

INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

HINT: If cable's adjustment is in need, refer to "ADJUSTMENT". See: Adjustments\A/C Control Assembly


79349838
REMOVAL



1. REMOVE COOLING UNIT
See: Evaporator Case\Service and Repair\Removal and Installation

79350077
2. DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT FROM RADIATOR

REMOVAL HINT: It is not necessary to drain out all the coolant.



3. DISCONNECT WATER HOSES FROM HEATER RADIATOR PIPES

79350078
INSTALLATION HINT:


Push the water hose onto the heater radiator pipe as far as the ridge on the pipe.
Install the hose clip in a position, as shown in the illustration.
4. REMOVE INSTRUMENT PANEL AND REINFORCEMENT
5. REMOVE DEFROSTER NOZZLE AND HEATER TO REGISTER DUCT
6. REMOVE HEATER UNIT
Remove the 2 nut and heater unit.

INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.




79349838
DISASSEMBLY


1. REMOVE HEATER RADIATOR

Remove the 3 screws and 2 plates and clamp.
Pull out the heater radiator.
Remove the 2 screws and 2 clips, then disconnect the heater radiator pipes.
2. REMOVE AIR VENT DUCT
Remove the 2 screws and duct.

REASSEMBLY
Reassembly is in the reverse order of disassembly.




anything else let me know
 
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Youz the man shootmymime! Thank you!

I hope I won't have to use it but if I do, Ugh, I'll make sure to take pics.
 
sure is nice working at an auto repair shop! you get the software to fix stuff normal people dont have, or dont pay for! good luck, but 1st i would try flushing the system, alot of times a bubble will get into the heater core. i will post a write up on flushing the system if you want
 
Thanks, but It's been flushed twice by my mechanic and twice by me thinking there was a blockage.

Flush 3 & 4 finally were running clear and a test with the engine running hot, control valve set on heat showed good flow from the outlet side of the heater core.

I'm starting to think a door somewhere this side of the heat from the core is shut, blocked or disconnected as I still have strong air flow from all dash and floor ports....just no heat in it

I'm going out now to try the burp.

edit- just checked your site, nice 'stang, you got cool parents.
 
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b4 you start tearing into it, make sure your heater control valve is open and all hoses are hot at normal operating temp. if not then you hvae a bubble, if so then you have a bad door
 
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