Help in deciding between 3 3rd gens

[Spruce_1984]

Hi all,

I made 1 other thread a few weeks ago asking for some input and I appreciate all the help I got.

I've got 3 options (at the moment) and am planning on buying something by Sunday if they don't get sold in front of me.

Option 1: 1997 Limited - Tan - 149,500 on the clock
Price $3500 - I was told this is non-negotiable.
Pros:
- In the owners family for 10+ years
- Shared the CarFax with me and it all seems very good
- the frame has been either sanded or blasted and undercoated (he sent me about 5 pics and it looks like he's not bs'ing)
- interior seems to be about a 9/10
- Timing, brakes, alternator, O2 sensors all done recently.
Cons:
-Age (this is somewhat relative, but needs to be included)
- Price - Most expensive of my choices
- The stainless bumper has 1 rust hole about the size of a $.50 piece. I don't have a TIG setup, and can't weld Stainless. So it either needs a new bumper or bondo/black paint until I get one that's clean or an aftermarket.

Option 2 - 2001 SR5 - Dark Green - 155,000 on the clock
- Price $3300 but was told the owner is "motivated to sell" So realistically $2500?
Pros:
- Price is right
- Green is a neat color
- Low Mileage
- Only rust is on the rockers, and those are an easy fix.
- Motivated seller
Cons:
- No provable maintenance history.
- SR5, so no Limited options. This is kind of double edged because I sweat in the summer, so leather sometimes doesn't do me right.
- The owner is responsive to a point, but just mentioned that the frame is "good" when I asked for pics.

Option 3 - 1997 limited - white 212,000 on the clock
Price - $2200 - I would probably not even haggle with this as it's about what a parts truck would cost.

Pros:
-Price
- Limited Package
- interior 7/10
- Frame is in decent shape for a michigan truck. No rot, and a day or two with some flap discs and my blaster could probably get it clean enough to undercoat before salt season really hits.
-Rear window works (forgot to ask that about the other trucks)

Cons:
- Mileage - I know they go a long time but 212 is a bunch
- Owner said that the transmission recently had the solenoids replaced because it was only shifting manually. I know this is somewhat common in the AW4s that I'm used to messing with, but don't know if it's indicative of any further issues in these.
- no real maintenance records.

I've got pics of these, but didn't want to spend 20 mins uploading them. They are all in good shape and pretty much rust free (with the exception of the rockers and possibly frame on the 2001, and a couple of small spots on the last one)

Sorry about the book, but I figure you guys collectively know about a million times as much as I do, so why not pick your brains?

 

[thennen]

My only input is rust. I loved my 2001, but at 265k miles, it had become unsafe to drive. Everything mechanical was still good and there were no pending issues there. I'm in Ohio, so similar weather to yours and probably similar road de-icing encountered. Examine closely, and try to poke a screwdriver through in numerous places, including next to the muffler. It wasn't fun getting rid of the truck for that reason. If I knew 10 years ago what I know now about these rusting, I would have fluid-filmed or applied WD-40 liberally and regularly. From what I see on the forum, undercoating may not be the best thing to do, especially on higher mileage vehicles, as it won't seep into the cracks like lubricant-based products.

Best wishes!

 

[Spruce_1984]

My only input is rust. I loved my 2001, but at 265k miles, it had become unsafe to drive. Everything mechanical was still good and there were no pending issues there. I'm in Ohio, so similar weather to yours and probably similar road de-icing encountered. Examine closely, and try to poke a screwdriver through in numerous places, including next to the muffler. It wasn't fun getting rid of the truck for that reason. If I knew 10 years ago what I know now about these rusting, I would have fluid-filmed or applied WD-40 liberally and regularly. From what I see on the forum, undercoating may not be the best thing to do, especially on higher mileage vehicles, as it won't seep into the cracks like lubricant-based products.

Best wishes!

100% agree. I've been a Jeep guy since I was maybe 22 or so. Actually taught myself how to weld fixing the frame on an old YJ and don't want to repeat. I have noticed that the rails in some of the ones I've looked at go bad around where the spare sits too, so I'll absolutely keep an eye out for it. Rust is probably the 1 thing I know as much as you guys about!

Interesting point about the oil vs the undercoat. In the past I've hit the entire frame with Rustoleum rust reformer and then with either bedliner or undercoating using an undercoating gun set to about 45psi.

 

[cblock406]

Impossible to give you advice without seeing them, I’d buy the best condition one. The price is so low it’s negligible between them.

You want to use a rust converting paint on the frame. Undercoat will trap rust and moisture and make things worse.

 

[FD7683]

My only input is rust. I loved my 2001, but at 265k miles, it had become unsafe to drive. Everything mechanical was still good and there were no pending issues there. I'm in Ohio, so similar weather to yours and probably similar road de-icing encountered. Examine closely, and try to poke a screwdriver through in numerous places, including next to the muffler. It wasn't fun getting rid of the truck for that reason. If I knew 10 years ago what I know now about these rusting, I would have fluid-filmed or applied WD-40 liberally and regularly. From what I see on the forum, undercoating may not be the best thing to do, especially on higher mileage vehicles, as it won't seep into the cracks like lubricant-based products.

Best wishes!

I live in Ohio too, and can agree with you that the salt on the roads really eats up the cars longevity and looks. As for the post, I like the 1st one since it's been with the owner for 10+ years, so it's guaranteed that service has been done frequently and correctly.

As far of longevity, go with the one with the best looking frame. Post pictures of all 3 4Runners if possible to give a good response.

______________
2000 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 Limited Sport Edition V6

 

[Kanoe]

Couple of quick comments;

-many prefer the earlier 3rd gens because they don't have all the fancy electronics to break. I wouldn't let the year be a factor.
-The frame will be rusted before the rockers so be wary of this one. The body holds up on these pretty well.
-The rear bumper is chrome not stainless. You can buy the replacement end pieces fairly cheap.

IMHO, I'd go for the least rusty one regardless of price. Any savings will be eaten up if you have to do much rust repair.

Good luck.

 

[Spruce_1984]

Pics.

#1

<a href="https://imgur.com/ZGprnO9"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ZGprnO9.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/6BUa3qd"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/6BUa3qd.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


#2

<a href="https://imgur.com/yvDauUa"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/yvDauUa.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/D5s8Uwk"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/D5s8Uwk.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/fCR5VhC"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/fCR5VhC.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/JQwbVKv"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/JQwbVKv.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

#3

<a href="https://imgur.com/sJmpNxj"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/sJmpNxj.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/ilKdIQG"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ilKdIQG.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/kN22sRs"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/kN22sRs.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/1h1E1Aa"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/1h1E1Aa.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/4owZCAa"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/4owZCAa.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/pCJ1ttW"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/pCJ1ttW.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/lFVTJ5A"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/lFVTJ5A.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/Gwgv2pT"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Gwgv2pT.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

 

[Spruce_1984]

Couple of quick comments;

-many prefer the earlier 3rd gens because they don't have all the fancy electronics to break. I wouldn't let the year be a factor.
-The frame will be rusted before the rockers so be wary of this one. The body holds up on these pretty well.
-The rear bumper is chrome not stainless. You can buy the replacement end pieces fairly cheap.

IMHO, I'd go for the least rusty one regardless of price. Any savings will be eaten up if you have to do much rust repair.

Good luck.

Excellent. The 2001 is also like an hour further away than the other 2, which shouldn't really factor in when buying a new vehicle...but it does for me at least a little.

 

[sportscarfan]

I'd be very skeptical of the one with the painted frame until you are able to poke around with a screwdriver. Would you pay a little more for one with zero body or frame rust?

 

[Spruce_1984]

I'd be very skeptical of the one with the painted frame until you are able to poke around with a screwdriver. Would you pay a little more for one with zero body or frame rust?

Thanks,
Depends on what's a little more, maint records, miles etc....


He told me I could have at it with a screwdriver, and I fully intend to. If there are frame holes that one is obviously out. After years of ancient, salt ridden wranglers, I'm pretty confident in my ability to judge the integrity of a frame. Anyone that wouldn't let me poke at it and tap on it would be an immediate out.

 

[thennen]

100% agree. I've been a Jeep guy since I was maybe 22 or so. Actually taught myself how to weld fixing the frame on an old YJ and don't want to repeat. I have noticed that the rails in some of the ones I've looked at go bad around where the spare sits too, so I'll absolutely keep an eye out for it. Rust is probably the 1 thing I know as much as you guys about!

Interesting point about the oil vs the undercoat. In the past I've hit the entire frame with Rustoleum rust reformer and then with either bedliner or undercoating using an undercoating gun set to about 45psi.

I'm not an expert by any means, but there's a lot of testimony on here for Fluid Film, WD-40, and similar lubricant-based products. There's one guy who applies WD-40 to his frame 1-2 times per year, and has, I forget, maybe 300k miles in the rust belt. He sprays it everywhere and leaves it, lets it gather dust, etc. Never sprays it off. His frame looks new except for the protective film the WD-40 creates.

Also, not sure of your entire situation, but if there's no rush and you have a little extra cash, it might be a good idea to look 500-600 miles south. That would put you in Tennessee or Georgia, and would probably turn up less-rusted frames that would hold up longer. Just a thought.

 

[Spruce_1984]

I'm not an expert by any means, but there's a lot of testimony on here for Fluid Film, WD-40, and similar lubricant-based products. There's one guy who applies WD-40 to his frame 1-2 times per year, and has, I forget, maybe 300k miles in the rust belt. He sprays it everywhere and leaves it, lets it gather dust, etc. Never sprays it off. His frame looks new except for the protective film the WD-40 creates.

Also, not sure of your entire situation, but if there's no rush and you have a little extra cash, it might be a good idea to look 500-600 miles south. That would put you in Tennessee or Georgia, and would probably turn up less-rusted frames that would hold up longer. Just a thought.

Appreciate it. I'm not exactly strapped, but I posted my Cherokee for sale a week or so ago and much to my surprise it sold almost instantly at my asking price, so I'm currently without a family hauler (unless the rusty old doge I use to move stuff around the property in summer counts). Also with work, my wife's schedule, COVID etc etc...I really have no idea when I'd be able to get down there to look. I'm not horribly worried about surface rust as I can easily throw that on the lift and blast it clean...I really do think I'll look into the oil protection though! I'm just not interested in cutting huge pieces out and putting safe-t-caps in.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Jeezus that rust is brutal. I feel for my brothers and sisters dealing with that. I'm guessing you're taking into account that at least one of those light colored ones has the E locking rear diff?

 

[HiLife]

I cannot wrap my head around that rust issue you salt state members gotta deal with, I never came close to anything like that. I thought Hawaii beach salt spray/mist was bad. It's only a fraction of bad compared to salt states.

That elocker is highly desirable. The multi mode transfer case available only to the limited 4runners are also desirable to me. But that salt damage is a limiting factor. I'll have to weigh hours of rust repair to desirables. As of now I'm limited in what I can do to repair rust myself.
So, I would be looking into the less rusted one out of the three.

 

[phattyduck]

Looks like all 3 are going to be rust buckets. I see rocker damage on the second one. The painted over rust on #1 is an issue - the seller is hiding something. The third has crazy bad rust - the body usually rusts through *after* there are serious frame issues.

-Charlie

 

[gamefreakgc]

#1 and #2 would be your best options. #3 is rusted way beyond repair and would be a money pit.

Personally, if the rust is about the same (and you seem competent with repairs) take #2 the 2001 if you really can talk them down to $2500. That's $1000 cheaper than the other one and that goes a very long way into making it what you want it to be with all sorts of goodies. The only real downside on the #2 2001 is that it has the bench-style front seats. The sport-style SR5 and Leather Limited seats are much more comfortable, as I've owned both.

 

[FD7683]

Stay away from the 3rd one. It's clapped with rust and interior needs work. 1st seller painted the frame so he's probably hiding rust which is a red flag.

The 2nd one isn't too bad although we didn't see the frame.

______________
2000 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 Limited Sport Edition V6

 

[brillo_76]

I deal with the rust and rot. Unless you want to spend alot of cutting welding and fabricating. Stay away from the rotted ones.

I saved 5 from the junk yards. But I am DIY and repair the rot myself. However, its my hobby and is not cost effective unless you do it yourself.

My builds thread is full of those adventures.

Now with that said, those who dont live in the rust belt most of the time see surface as extreme rot as they just do have alot of experience with it.

How I assess the rusty steel:

If the scaling got above 50% of the original Thinkness is starting to get questionable. the is going 75% gone its loosing structural integrity. It's going to rot through quickly and probably already is in places.

Being your a Jeep guy you understand what rotted steel looks like then surface scaling.

One thing to mention. The 3rd gen boxed frame is a thicker c channel with a thinner inside to make the box. Mostly these rot from the inside out and the inside frame rail goes first. Arch areas and the LCA are hot spots especially behind the tank.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[Spruce_1984]

I deal with the rust and rot. Unless you want to spend alot of cutting welding and fabricating. Stay away from the rotted ones.

I saved 5 from the junk yards. But I am DIY and repair the rot myself. However, its my hobby and is not cost effective unless you do it yourself.

My builds thread is full of those adventures.

Now with that said, those who dont live in the rust belt most of the time see surface as extreme rot as they just do have alot of experience with it.

How I assess the rusty steel:

If the scaling got above 50% of the original Thinkness is starting to get questionable. the is going 75% gone its loosing structural integrity. It's going to rot through quickly and probably already is in places.

Being your a Jeep guy you understand what rotted steel looks like then surface scaling.

One thing to mention. The 3rd gen boxed frame is a thicker c channel with a thinner inside to make the box. Mostly these rot from the inside out and the inside frame rail goes first. Arch areas and the LCA are hot spots especially behind the tank.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

This is the most informative post I've read on 4 runners. Thanks man...very very good. I know that not living in arizona I'm gonna have to deal with rust....that's why i have a lift, sandblasting setup, and a 220 mig...I would just prefer to use them as little as possible. the only Toyotas I've worked on aremy old 80 and a friends 80...I'm guessing its the same steel

I agree...I can blast and measure and whatnot, but I'd prefer not to for another 1000 bucks. It's just not realistic for me to travel to the south right now to hunt for cars, so this what I've got. Thank you again

 

[Ashura]

This is the most informative post I've read on 4 runners. Thanks man...very very good. I know that not living in arizona I'm gonna have to deal with rust....that's why i have a lift, sandblasting setup, and a 220 mig...I would just prefer to use them as little as possible. the only Toyotas I've worked on aremy old 80 and a friends 80...I'm guessing its the same steel

I agree...I can blast and measure and whatnot, but I'd prefer not to for another 1000 bucks. It's just not realistic for me to travel to the south right now to hunt for cars, so this what I've got. Thank you again

Where in Indiana are you?

(And that there ladies and gentlemen was post 50 lol)