Help: my hose clamps are being smarter than me

[Frontier719]

Last summer, and 20,000 miles ago I replaced my radiator as well as the upper and lower radiator hoses. Everything was fine until about a month ago when the upper hose started to droop and the fan blade wore a small hole in it.

OK, the upper hose was too long.

Went and bought a new upper hose, shortened it a bit so it wont get caught in the fan and reinstalled.

Now, my hose clamps on both ends of the upper hose leak! I've tightened them down to the point where I'm afraid I'll break the radiator, but the dang things still leak.

My radiator never runs low, but the catchment tank is dry after about a week of driving. And of course, the fluid leaks on the serpentine belts which I just replaced.

**Note--I know the end of the hose connected to the radiator looks like it's slipping off--I've pushed it back on and tightened the clamp and it just moves back like that :AK47:

Am I using the wrong kind of hose clamp?

 

[AZPartsGuy]

I had the same issue with leaking onto the timing cover. When I pulled the hose I used some sandpaper or whatever I had and cleaned all the corrosion off, replaced the hoses, and I haven't had an issue since.

 

[JayRolla]

I know its crazy but I have had this issue with cheap auto part store radiator hoses. Ive actually had better luck pulling good used ones from the yard or going with silicone radiator hose.

For what its worth mine has leaked in the same spot for the 6 years ive owned her. LOL.

 

[Frontier719]

I had the same issue with leaking onto the timing cover. When I pulled the hose I used some sandpaper or whatever I had and cleaned all the corrosion off, replaced the hoses, and I haven't had an issue since.

Hmm ya I cleaned it pretty good when I did the radiator and I didn't notice any crud on it when I replaced the hose the second time.

 

[Frontier719]

I know its crazy but I have had this issue with cheap auto part store radiator hoses. Ive actually had better luck pulling good used ones from the yard or going with silicone radiator hose.

For what its worth mine has leaked in the same spot for the 6 years ive owned her. LOL.

Luckily the lower hose isn't the one that leaks. But I replaced both with the auto parts store hoses.

The only thing I did different on the lower hose is that I used the original hose clamps on the lower hose and put new ones on the upper.

 

[AZPartsGuy]

Hmm ya I cleaned it pretty good when I did the radiator and I didn't notice any crud on it when I replaced the hose the second time.

You could try a T-Clamp. I hear they're quite good.

 

[soupkitchen]

You could try a T-Clamp. I hear they're quite good.

eff that! That's a good way to crack your plastic radiator ends!! too easy to over-torque. those are great for alum intercooler pipes tho.

 

[nissanh]

Simple answer. Get an OEM radiator hose!

 

[kball]

Am I using the wrong kind of hose clamp?

That worm style clamp is fine. Either it's not tight enough or there's some crud between the hose and rad. Use a small (5/16?) socket to give it a few more turns. The reason it's pulling off is probably because you trimmed it too short. You shouldn't have had to trim it at all so you must have some "fits most" type hose. As a quick fix to get you by I would try adding a second clamp on there. You don't have to remove the hose, just unwind the clamp all the way until the end comes out, wrap it around and reinsert, then tighten up.

 

[Stick Figure]

The worm gear clamps suck. Take a look under the hood of most modern cars and you will find spring clamps. Why because the proper name for them is "constant tension clamps".

Every time you bring the engine up to operating temp the rubber on that hose swells. A quality worm gear clamp stays the same size which is why you usually see the hose cut up under them. A cheap worm gear clamp stretches out and creates a leak. If you use the proper sized hose and constant tension clamp, then the clamp can stretch with the hose and retain the proper tension on the hose connection regardless of the temp. I just went through this on one of my cars. The previous owner replaced the hoses with carquest brands and worm clamps. On my to do pile is OEM Toyota hoses and clamps.

 

[mtbtim]

When I bought my truck a couple years ago, unbeknownst to me, the upper radiator hose was put on backwards. There was an extra section of radiator hose zip tied onto the upper hose and that should have been a clue to me something was wrong but i just thought the PO's mechanic was putting a little safety there. Because the hose was on backwards, the hose came much closer to the fan than it should have and the fan obviously made contact because there was damage to the hose.

I bought a new hose and realized very quickly the idiots who put it on just put it on backwards. When It's installed correctly, it comes nowhere close to the fan.

Anyway, if I were you, I'd just buy a new OEM radiator hose and new OEM clamps. What [MENTION=28064]Stick Figure[/MENTION] says makes a lot of sense.

 

[A-dog]

What you need to do to solve your problem until you are able to replace your upper radiator hose with an OEM one AND constant tension spring clamps is this:

1) Remove the hose and clean both the radiator and engine block with CLR and a brillo pad to remove corrosion that would prevent a flush seal.

2) Trim the hose to the appropriate length to avoid it sagging down to the fan.

3) Use hose clamps like in the picture provided. Do not be afraid to crank down fairly tight on the engine block side, since it is metal. Be a bit more careful on the radiator side, just like you mentioned. Make sure the hose clamps are set up just like in the picture so that the adjustment screws are on opposite sides.

Good luck!

 

[StreetCreeper]

The worm gear clamps suck. Take a look under the hood of most modern cars and you will find spring clamps. Why because the proper name for them is "constant tension clamps".

Every time you bring the engine up to operating temp the rubber on that hose swells. A quality worm gear clamp stays the same size which is why you usually see the hose cut up under them. A cheap worm gear clamp stretches out and creates a leak. If you use the proper sized hose and constant tension clamp, then the clamp can stretch with the hose and retain the proper tension on the hose connection regardless of the temp. I just went through this on one of my cars. The previous owner replaced the hoses with carquest brands and worm clamps. On my to do pile is OEM Toyota hoses and clamps.

Nice — wondered what those clamps were actually called!

About a year ago I was servicing my power steering pump, and with ATF all over my hands, the OEM clamp shot off into space like a rocket (be smart — wear safety glasses). Never found that bastard...so I had to use a regular worm gear type clamp as none of the parts stores had anything else.

I think I'll be putting in an order for some of these "constant tension clamps" of various sizes. So much better than trying to screw with the other style.

 

[Scramble]

The worm gear clamps suck. Take a look under the hood of most modern cars and you will find spring clamps. Why because the proper name for them is "constant tension clamps".

Every time you bring the engine up to operating temp the rubber on that hose swells. A quality worm gear clamp stays the same size which is why you usually see the hose cut up under them. A cheap worm gear clamp stretches out and creates a leak. If you use the proper sized hose and constant tension clamp, then the clamp can stretch with the hose and retain the proper tension on the hose connection regardless of the temp. I just went through this on one of my cars. The previous owner replaced the hoses with carquest brands and worm clamps. On my to do pile is OEM Toyota hoses and clamps.

You learn something new everyday.

 

[Stick Figure]

Nice — wondered what those clamps were actually called!

About a year ago I was servicing my power steering pump, and with ATF all over my hands, the OEM clamp shot off into space like a rocket (be smart — wear safety glasses). Never found that bastard...so I had to use a regular worm gear type clamp as none of the parts stores had anything else.

I think I'll be putting in an order for some of these "constant tension clamps" of various sizes. So much better than trying to screw with the other style.

And there is the one problem I have with them. Trying to order them in the right sizes has been tough for me. I ordered most of the sizes McMaster offered in the factory style several years ago, but they usually end up being wrong for what the Japanese vehicles I have worked on needed. There are a few different versions of screw clamps that retrain a spring or flex area to hold tension that might be better if you are looking to keep something on hand for just in case situations.