Help Needed - what to fix on front suspension

[woodman60]

After around 2 months of ownership, I finally got some time to take my 2005 SR5 (191K) off the pavement for the first time.

I've spent the last couple months changing all the fluids, replacing spark plugs, and doing a number of cosmetic fixes and minor mods.

What I realized today is it may be time to put some effort into refurbishing the front suspension. A lot of chatter/rattlle/clunk on just a moderately rough forest road.

I'd like some thoughts on what to address. My initial idea was to to do the Energy Suspension UCA/LCA bushing kit, as well as new sway bar end links and ball joints. The sway bar bushings have already been replaced. I'll probably have a mechanic do the work due to a lack of time, knowledge, and tools. Don't want to spend a fortune, but want to take advantage once things are pulled apart.


Question 1- Will the bushings help? While its pulled apart, should I have him do other work?


Question 2 - At the same time, I'd like to swap out the Rancho strut. If I go to Bilstein 5100 do I have to get new coil springs as well? Should I go to 6112's instead?


Thanks for the help.

 

[Johns06yota]

After around 2 months of ownership, I finally got some time to take my 2005 SR5 (191K) off the pavement for the first time.

I've spent the last couple months changing all the fluids, replacing spark plugs, and doing a number of cosmetic fixes and minor mods.

What I realized today is it may be time to put some effort into refurbishing the front suspension. A lot of chatter/rattlle/clunk on just a moderately rough forest road.

I'd like some thoughts on what to address. My initial idea was to to do the Energy Suspension UCA/LCA bushing kit, as well as new sway bar end links and ball joints. The sway bar bushings have already been replaced. I'll probably have a mechanic do the work due to a lack of time, knowledge, and tools. Don't want to spend a fortune, but want to take advantage once things are pulled apart.


Question 1- Will the bushings help? While its pulled apart, should I have him do other work?


Question 2 - At the same time, I'd like to swap out the Rancho strut. If I go to Bilstein 5100 do I have to get new coil springs as well? Should I go to 6112's instead?


Thanks for the help.

As far as the clunk noises I would say new sway bar bushings and end links will most likely resolve that issue. The only other think that could be causing it is possibly a loose lower control arm or worn control arm bushing to my knowledge

 

[Morphyne]

You don't have to do new springs but it's a good idea. Considering that the labor is the most expensive part, I just replace the spring while I'm in there.. I'd you are paying someone it would be beneficial to put your money into a prebuilt strut vs paying some one to disassemble the old strut to save the spring.

 

[BackOff]

You don't have to do new springs but it's a good idea. Considering that the labor is the most expensive part, I just replace the spring while I'm in there.. I'd you are paying someone it would be beneficial to put your money into a prebuilt strut vs paying some one to disassemble the old strut to save the spring.

Those are Rancho 9000 coils.
They are different than the standard Toyota coils.


To the OP, your almost at 200k miles them noises you hear could be almost anything even the rear control arms can make clunking that sounds like its coming from under your feet...like its the front...but its not.

I would pull the front sway bar off and see if it sounds better.
Go at it one step at a time so you can tell what actually fixed it.

 

[Ida4runner]

I'd go for new stock upper/lower control arm bushings and struts first.At 200K those parts most likely need replacing and if bad would cause all kinds of noise and chatter.

 

[81runner]

Clunking could be coming from ball joints, bushings, alignment cams, tie rod ends, the steering linkage, the list is quite long. As far as suspension components, given mileage and the fact that labor is more expensive, I would look into replacing complete ucas and lcas, eliminating a ton of labor and multiple culprits simultaneously. That's where I would go with my money.

 

[verman84]

I'm at 165k and I was having similar such as rattling/clunking over bumps especially off road. It really started to become obvious around 140k. I also had a terrifying wandering issue that would suddenly pull my car to either side completely at random at highway speeds. At first I thought I might have knocked it out of alignment while offroading so I brought it in and had the shop take a look at it. The alignment was mostly within spec but they said my shocks were still the original shocks and likely completely toast.

I replaced the shocks with 5100s all around, lifted the front about an inch (2nd perch from bottom), replaced sway bar bushings, end links, and shock mounts and it suddenly drives like a new car. Everything is tight again, it tracks straight on the highway and it doesn't rattle over bumps anymore. Problem solved. I had my doubts about the sway bushings. Mine seemed like they were still in good shape and I couldn't get my sway bar to move. Its amazing how much noise a sway bar can make. Sway bar and end links are cheap and easy to do so I would start there. Everything else will cost more and be more labor intensive.

 

[radlynx]

i'm at 135000 miles as of this time. I replaced my front suspension last year and removed the front sway bar and links since it just limits your front suspension travel. so far, i'm happy about it, one less thing to worry about. I know I know, it's not advisable but so far it drives like a car.

I'm at 165k and I was having similar such as rattling/clunking over bumps especially off road. It really started to become obvious around 140k. I also had a terrifying wandering issue that would suddenly pull my car to either side completely at random at highway speeds. At first I thought I might have knocked it out of alignment while offroading so I brought it in and had the shop take a look at it. The alignment was mostly within spec but they said my shocks were still the original shocks and likely completely toast.

I replaced the shocks with 5100s all around, lifted the front about an inch (2nd perch from bottom), replaced sway bar bushings, end links, and shock mounts and it suddenly drives like a new car. Everything is tight again, it tracks straight on the highway and it doesn't rattle over bumps anymore. Problem solved. I had my doubts about the sway bushings. Mine seemed like they were still in good shape and I couldn't get my sway bar to move. Its amazing how much noise a sway bar can make. Sway bar and end links are cheap and easy to do so I would start there. Everything else will cost more and be more labor intensive.