HELP No headlights and other electrical problems

[dirt__diggler]

This started when driving at night. I flipped and my brights and got..... Nothing. All headlights out (still running lights). Then, my a few minutes later my stereo reset, my battery, ABS, and airbag lights came on. At this point I'm in the middle of nowhere so I figure if my alternator is toast I better keep driving to civilization. Well, warning lights go off one by one. I get to a safe place to turn off the engine and when I restart everything seems good (with exception of my brights).

This condition persists for a couple weeks with no brights and the same three warning lights coming on and off but in no obvious pattern - ABS, airbag, and battery with the ABS being the most common. Oh and the stereo losing power momentarily then resetting.

Finally, it gets worse. There are no longer any headlights. Not brights or normal.

I've checked all fuses. I've torn off all the easy dash sections and found nothing. I replaced the headlight relay (though I could hear it working) and still nothing.

I'm about to pull the rest of the dash but thought before I tackled it I'd see if anyone had any bright idea.

Thanks!

FYI 98 limited 4wd elocker 3.4L auto

 

[dirt__diggler]

Get it, bright ideas.....

 

[RAD4Runner]

Toyota components are bullet-proof. Most problems are caused by bad connections, poor assembly and maintenance.

Instead of spending money and time guessing and replacing parts that may not be broken in the first place, spend $6 or so at Harbor Fright for a multi-meter.

Suspect connections first. ALL connections, not just the cliched "Check Ground".

Then find schematic and find out what headlights and those 3 warning lights have in common. A ground connection? A positive connection? then inspect and clean that connection.

 

[dirt__diggler]

One last thing - the truck was wired by Uhaul for trailer brakes and lights. I towed with it 1,800 miles over two days a year ago, then a few very short runs, but had recently used it to tow 500 miles soon before this happened. The manual does warn against direct wiring (as Uhaul did).

And RAD4Runner - thanks for the tips. I haven't spent any money yet and I do have a multimeter, but what I don't have (and can't find) is the wiring schematic for my particular truck (I do have one for me 87). If you have any ideas, please let me know. I have about 20 tabs open now trying to find one.

 

[TheDurk]

One last thing - the truck was wired by Uhaul for trailer brakes and lights. I towed with it 1,800 miles over two days a year ago, then a few very short runs, but had recently used it to tow 500 miles soon before this happened. The manual does warn against direct wiring (as Uhaul did).

And RAD4Runner - thanks for the tips. I haven't spent any money yet and I do have a multimeter, but what I don't have (and can't find) is the wiring schematic for my particular truck (I do have one for me 87). If you have any ideas, please let me know. I have about 20 tabs open now trying to find one.

98 EWD https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9IWqDq4UBoIdmRVWGdTbmk0azA

I would bet on bad battery terminals or cables, including ground terminations.

If you brought the truck to me, I would:

Check cables and terminals as above. Remove and clean--many hidden defects like stripped terminal nuts will be revealed even if they did not need cleaned.

Verify state of charge of battery, then give it a full charge. Load test battery. No bigger waste of time than trouble-shooting a truck with a bad battery.

Verify alternator output is 13.5-14.5 Volts with engine running.

Do all this before messing with the headlight circuit. Your issue is bigger than that.

 

[Nate_GB]

98 EWD https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9IWqDq4UBoIdmRVWGdTbmk0azA

I would bet on bad battery terminals or cables, including ground terminations.

If you brought the truck to me, I would:

Check cables and terminals as above. Remove and clean--many hidden defects like stripped terminal nuts will be revealed even if they did not need cleaned.

Verify state of charge of battery, then give it a full charge. Load test battery. No bigger waste of time than trouble-shooting a truck with a bad battery.

Verify alternator output is 13.5-14.5 Volts with engine running.

Do all this before messing with the headlight circuit. Your issue is bigger than that.

Solid advise. Sounds like a main power issue. Most auto parts stores will test your battery for free. I'd start there. Low voltage can do weird things.