Help! NO START NO Crank Issue

Updated, I sent it to the shop and they tested the ECM and it was not sending power to the starter. Which seems consistent with the wiring diagram. The shop sent the ECM to Cali to be rebuilt and it was beyond repair. 1200 for a new one. Part number 8966135B52. Going to Toyota tomorrow to see if I can strike a deal.

Hoping this mechanic is not BS'n. He did give me the option to source my own ECM and isn't price gouging so I feel a little better about it.
 
Hi all. My 2004 V8 has a no start issue - won't crank, just click,click,click. Started/drove fine 6 or 7 times that day, then went out and no start - just click,click,click (dome lights go dim during the click). Everything else in the 4Runner seems to work fine. My airbag warning light has been on for a long time, but no other warning lights on.

Here's what I've tried:

- Jump start from another car with new battery, same click,click,click.
- Battery is only a year old, reads 13.1V; terminals looked good. Cleaned and tightened anyway.
- Checked all fuses under hood and under dash.
- Pulled fuses one by one and tried to start.
- Made sure alarm light blinks w/out key; stops blinking with key.
- Swapped starter relay with relay next to it (and back). Had someone feel it click when ignition turned.
- Pulled starter (what a pain!) and had tested. It failed once, then passed. Replaced with a new starter just in case.
- OBDII is not throwing any codes.

As it sits now after swapping and trying everything above, I've gotten nowhere. Still click-click-click. I also have warning lights on now - CEL, oil pressure, oil temp, and battery. Still no codes from OBDII.

I do have an aftermarket HU and rear view camera installed. Went in about 2 years ago and have never had any issues. I've pulled apart the dash and pulled the connectors on the HU as well as visually check for obvious wire issues. And as mentioned above, I did try to start with the fuse pulled that powers the HU. My next step would be to disconnect the whole HU.

Maybe someone has some ideas of other things to check? ECU? I'm stuck!!
 
sb4run said:
Hi all. My 2004 V8 has a no start issue - won't crank, just click,click,click. Started/drove fine 6 or 7 times that day, then went out and no start - just click,click,click (dome lights go dim during the click). Everything else in the 4Runner seems to work fine. My airbag warning light has been on for a long time, but no other warning lights on.

Here's what I've tried:

- Jump start from another car with new battery, same click,click,click.
- Battery is only a year old, reads 13.1V; terminals looked good. Cleaned and tightened anyway.
- Checked all fuses under hood and under dash.
- Pulled fuses one by one and tried to start.
- Made sure alarm light blinks w/out key; stops blinking with key.
- Swapped starter relay with relay next to it (and back). Had someone feel it click when ignition turned.
- Pulled starter (what a pain!) and had tested. It failed once, then passed. Replaced with a new starter just in case.
- OBDII is not throwing any codes.

As it sits now after swapping and trying everything above, I've gotten nowhere. Still click-click-click. I also have warning lights on now - CEL, oil pressure, oil temp, and battery. Still no codes from OBDII.

I do have an aftermarket HU and rear view camera installed. Went in about 2 years ago and have never had any issues. I've pulled apart the dash and pulled the connectors on the HU as well as visually check for obvious wire issues. And as mentioned above, I did try to start with the fuse pulled that powers the HU. My next step would be to disconnect the whole HU.

Maybe someone has some ideas of other things to check? ECU? I'm stuck!!
Click to expand...

You did mention you checked the battery connections, but did you check the battery body/chassis ground connection?

If not and since you're getting lights going dim which points to a bad battery or connection, even if it feels tight it could be a bad connection, remove and clean both the terminal and the connection point to clean metal and see if that is the cause, have you had the battery "Load" tested, even a new battery can go bad and read fine with a multimeter but have the voltage drop to low to start the vehicle under load, or tried putting in another battery, other than that you could have a bad cable/wire going to the starter solenoid, bad solenoid if not replace with the starter, a bad ignition switch and last possibly but doubtful a bad ECM.
 
I did check the battery grounds and they were good. I had a load test done on the battery and it was *bad*. Thank you for pointing me back in the direction I should have started with in the first place. New battery (under warranty even) and all is good. Lesson learned to start with the obvious.
 
sb4run said:
I did check the battery grounds and they were good. I had a load test done on the battery and it was *bad*. Thank you for pointing me back in the direction I should have started with in the first place. New battery (under warranty even) and all is good. Lesson learned to start with the obvious.
Click to expand...

You're welcome, glad you got it back on track!!

This is what we're all here for, to learn and when possible to help others!!
 
Where is this stupid starter kill located? My car has been sitting in the dealer for over 2 months now and they can't seem to figure out why the car doesn't turn on.
 
Dchris said:
Where is this stupid starter kill located? My car has been sitting in the dealer for over 2 months now and they can't seem to figure out why the car doesn't turn on.
Click to expand...

I just reread this entire topic and nowhere did I see "starter kill" mentioned, exactly what are you referring too?

I would love to help you but not sure what you're asking about.
 
It's the 4runner's starter. Just replace with a new one from Amazon for $110. Don't buy OEM for $400.

I've had 4 starters to replace in my 2005 SR5 V6 4runner (150,000 miles) . the original lasted 4 years and failed. The AMs last 4 years as well - then fail.

Don't bother to rebuild the OEM starter. I did that once with top shop and it failed in 1 year.

Getting no start - not even a click... ITS THE STARTER. REPLACE WITH NEW. Don't rebuild.:llama:
 
Hey all,

My 2007 V6 SR5 4x4 (automatic) is having the problem described in this thread. About a month ago I was up at Crater Lake. (Hot day, maybe 80-85 degrees at around 5800'.) After getting into the park, I stopped to use the restroom just inside the entrance. Got back into the 4Runner and she wouldn't start. All electronics seemed to work fine (windows, radio, lights, etc). No click, no starter engagement. Just nothing. I thought it might be the park/neutral switch, so I used the override and ran through the gears a few times to no avail. Tried getting a jump, same result. Tried arming and disarming alarm, nothing. Called AAA and settled in for the 4 hour wait with a picnic just downwind of the pit toilet. Tried starting it about every 20 minutes, thinking maybe there's a chance it was heat related. About 2-1/2 hours into the ordeal it started right up.

No problems for a month. Then yesterday in the Costco fueling station: same problem right after I filled up. (Maybe 95 degrees outside, at sea level.) Pushed her out of the fueling lane and into a proper parking spot. Ran home to get my multimeter, had a friend drive me back to the 4R. Not sure what to test, we checked battery voltage. 12.5V. Tried starting the engine. Nothing. Battery voltage steady at 12.5V, no change during start attempt. No sure what that tells me, except that maybe the ECM is not allowing the starter to be energized? Does the ECM even do that? Anyhow, brought her home on a flatbed. Attempted a start right after the wheels were back on the ground; started right up.

So now I'm nervous about taking it anywhere. Need to resolve this. Went with the easy thing first: clean battery terminals. They already looked pretty good, but cleaned them anyway. BARE SHINY METAL WITH TIGHT CONNECTIONS, as recommended previously in this thread. Also verified the ground cables appear to be in good condition and secure. That was today.

I have an OBD-II reader with Torque. I checked for codes, but none were displayed. Is there something else I can see through the OBD that might tell me why it won't start?

What about the safety inputs that prevent the starter from engaging? How many are there? I remember reading something about a door lock safety switch somewhere. Is there such a thing? How could I test the P/Neutral safety switch? Would it be easier to change the starter first? (I'm not a fan of changing components without validating it through testing beforehand. But is that the best course of action here?)

Summary of possibilities, based on what I've read:

Check cables (done)
Check ground (done)
Defective chip in key (never even heard of this happening before)
Replace starter (Plausible. Seems to be the consensus.)
P/N safety switch (not sure how to test...)
Door lock safety switch (is there such a thing?)
Check ACC Cut relay (I found testing instructions. Will test and report.)
Check starter relay (I found testing instructions. Will test and report.)
Check ECM (How? Take to dealer? Local shop?)

Also, I found some weird greenish blob of, what I believe is, some sort of corrosion buildup material just aft of the fuse box under the hood. I've attached some photos. Does anyone know what this is? Should I be concerned?

All advice is much appreciated.

Many thanks dudes and dudettes.




 
Last edited:
Update to above: the Starter Relay and ACC Relay seemed to pass the continuity test. The continuity behaved exactly as described in the manual. However, I'm not sure they can be ruled out: if the problem is intermittent, couldn't/wouldn't a failure of these components also be intermittent?
 
Update: I found a thread about this on another forum (gasp!). It was suggested to check the EFI fuse. A couple of people had reported the fuse having indications of arcing and burning, but not bad enough to break the connection altogether. I pulled the fuse and found that this was true of mine. (See photo below.) Not sure how it got this way, but I'd say the bent contact (also found on the others who reported this problem) kind of suggests it was somehow loused up during manufacturing.

Anyhow, I pulled the fuse and attempted a start. Exact symptoms were replicated. (No crank, no click, nothing.) I know this doesn't prove causation, but it's promising. I replaced the fuse with a fresh one and it started right up. I checked for codes after I got it started, but there were none.

Will report back in a few weeks. Sooner if the problem recurs.

 
El_Jefe_83 said:
Good morning All,
I am having a No start, no crank, no click issue. Am very close to admitting defeat and taking it in.
I have had my 4 runner for 3 years with out a single issue up until this point.

On Friday I dropped it off with the wife and took my Land cruiser, got a call that night, it wont start.
I trouble shooted /tried to jump it and went back on Saturday with tools and for testing.

Symptoms: Turn the key, power turns on, when I turn the key nothing. Not even a click. Lights in the truck do not dim.

What I checked
-I pulled the starter, took it to be tested, it works fine. (have never had a hard starting problem.)

-Checked the voltage on the battery and was at 12.4 I imagine since I had tried numerous times to start it had drained slightly. I took the battery out of my cruiser and still did not start. Put 4runner battery in my cruiser and it started. Battery Possibility, eliminated.

-Checked fuses, starter relay, ignition fuse, STA fuse pretty much all fuses.

I read through the different threads, and could not come up with any similar symptoms.

Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...


THIS DOESN'T make ANY SENSE.

"I took the battery out of my cruiser and still did not start. Put 4runner battery in my cruiser and it started. Battery Possibility, eliminated."

I still think it is your starter solanoid

Try a new starter from Amazon for $100

I've had to replace 4 starters in my 2005 4runner (150,000 miles). OEM lasted 4 years. The dealer shop rebuilt it and that lasted 1 year.
Then put a new starter I bought AM (dealer didn't stock a starter) - lasted 4 years and failed.

Replaced with AM starter from Amazon - 4 years and failed.

Replaced with another new starter with a lifetime warranty - that's in there 3 years now.

I bought a spare starter from Amazon for an emergency.

Try a new starter from Amazon for $100.
 
Last edited:
Came here to say check the EFI fuse!

I drove into my driveway and when I came to a stop the truck shut off in gear. Strange I tried to start and had same symptoms, no click, no crank, like the starter wasn’t getting power. I cleaned the battery terminals and still nothing, found this thread and sure enough the EFI 20amp fuse was the culprit. I had a battery light come on days prior and it just got cold here, maybe the corrosion played a role. Not sure
 
CRAP I drove to the auto parts store and it just blew the fuse again. What could cause it to blow?

Drive in to the lot pull up to the parking spot and right as I slow to almost a stop it kills the motor. Same fuse blown. I stopped at a couple stop lights too without it blowing
 
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