Help on transfer case

Pnutcar

New member
I'm looking at buying this 2004 SR5 V8 with 126,500 miles on it... is this actuator alright looking or should I move on to something else? It has everything I want on it, but...

It shifts fine and went into 4lo without any noises. Thanks!

538391_10100851600472780_15904459_55009654_58566916_n.jpg

36607_10100851600557610_15904459_55009655_1039564860_n.jpg
 
Register to hide this ad
That's the beginning of an actuator seal leak. Looks like a lot of rust. If you buy that you'll want to replace the drain and fill plugs when you change fluid.
 
Thanks Acidmeld. Anyone else have any advice?

MAke double sure the timing belt has been replaced befor purchase they're good for 90,000 or 7 years (maybe 8 years). along with the water pump.

the actuators in those vehicles is a known issue but mainly due to lack of use. The V8 is full time awd so its not quite as common of actuator failure a leak can be fix my disasembly/ clean/ and reassemble with new seals if you become the owner switch it into 4LO atleast once a month and drive a little with it to keep the actuator from seizing up.

check the condition of the CV axle boots and shafts.

check and see when all the case fluids have been changed if at all.

these trucks are good to run for way more miles than 126,000 with good maintance kept up. just make sure your not getting a lemon.
 
Cv has been fixed/repaired, and i was planning on doing tbelt and waterpump and having trans flushed.

Also, no rust around the rear window weather strip. Ill check the sunroof again but looked rust free. Its always been a St. Louis truck.
 
Cv has been fixed/repaired, and i was planning on doing tbelt and waterpump and having trans flushed.

Also, no rust around the rear window weather strip. Ill check the sunroof again but looked rust free. Its always been a St. Louis truck.

only other thing i would check up on would be freeze plugs in the block with the salt life the vehicle seems to have seen main concerns would be run in bad places. everything else sounds good, if you plan on doing TB and WP yourself check out Amazon.com for the whole replacement kit i found it cheapest there at 300 bucks for everything you need when your in the TB case (tensioner pullies, auto tensioner, TB, TB idler pully, cam seals, front crank seal, water pump, thermostate, and new drive belt) you dont have to replace the crank or cam seals unless they're showing signs of leakage or bad wear. just throw those on the shelf until you need them later. same with the thermostate. unless you just want to replace that to, a coolant flush is always a plus aswell keep nastyness out of your radiator.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,066
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top