HELP! So sick of these crappy brakes

if Tundra brakes aren't in the budget using ceramic pads is a pretty big help as they resist fade better than organics. 4runner brakes are subpar for a 4000lb truck but better pads will help. I'd love to do the Tundra upgrade and keep it all OEM but a tranny cooler is next on the mod list. (all these pink milkshake threads are freaking me out :wow:)

Me too! I've got two tranny coolers sitting in my garage, but (strange as it sounds) I'm waiting for the ambient temps to go down so I don't blow a gasket doing the install.

Also have 231mm rotors sitting in the garage and Tundra calipers in the mail to upgrade my SR5 that spends most of its time in the western NC mountains so lots of upgrade work ahead of me!
 
Hi all:

What is entailed with the Tundra upgrade? Is it BOLT ON? Just get the parts kit and go? Or are there mods required. Links please!

Is switching to Brembo rotors and ceramic pads a good way, if i don't go the Tundra route?

Thanks!!!!!!!!!:biggrin2:

OOPS...saw the link above too late. Old eyes. Looks easy...for my mechanic!! :) (i am a wimp!)

Here's another write-up...
Gen 3 Toyota 4Runner Tundra Brake Swap: Off-Road.com
 
Might as well ask this question now and here,

but the grinding on the back of the wheel is only for the stock 16" wheels to fit the 231mm Tundra upgrade, how do I know if I will need to grind on my procomp 7089s before I put everything back together??

0mm offset, 16x8 and 4.5 backspace

or if I do the 199mm I dont have to grind anything??
 
I took care of the brake vibrations yesterday with new rotors (higher end wagners from orielly's) and wagner ceramic pads. Also replaced back shocks and front struts. No vibrations now, we'll see if it holds up. I just wasn't ready to drop the cash on the Tundra upgrade yet, might consider it depending on the life of this setup. Simple install, and it brakes better than ever.
 
Duhockey - Really not sure what offset is needed with the Tundra upgrade, but these wheels need to be modified:
4RunBrake1.jpg


while these don't:
43_V2010040619494320.jpg~original


So are my stock calipers and rotors worth anything on the market? where are you guys sourcing your calipers and rotors?

Ape - Not planning on getting anything for my stock calipers. I got my Brembo 231mm rotors from TireRack.com, and my Tundra calipers after LOTS of calls to LOTS of junkyards before I found a set off a 2006. Made sure they were marked with 13WL before they shipped them, but got a great deal at $35 each.
 
What else can I do? I only get vibrations when braking and a slight pull to the left. I am running 33's, so more rotating mass.

I've done a lot of reading, but it seems I've tried a lot of the suggestions. Am I destined for the Tundra Brake Upgrade? Could there be something else wrong?[/QUOTE]

Two things come to my mind:
(1) Check your calipers and the pistons to make sure the travel back and forth properly. (if the calipers are real gunked up they will drag and create heat the whole time you are driving), this also makes me suggest checking the slides where the caliper travels back and forth also. If it has alot of mud or rust it will cause added heat and a pulling when the brakes are applied.

(2) Check your rear brake adjustment if they are not tight, they will make your front brakes work that much harder. Rear brakes never get adjusted properly and should be checked every 6 months or so.

:ybrick:
 
Back from the grave.

Make sure to torque the lug nuts to the same value all the way around. 83ft lbs. that alone can cause the rotors to warp. Also, even if you buy the rotors new, get them turned at the shop. I've had more new warped rotors than not.
 
Back from the grave.

Make sure to torque the lug nuts to the same value all the way around. 83ft lbs. that alone can cause the rotors to warp. Also, even if you buy the rotors new, get them turned at the shop. I've had more new warped rotors than not.

I totally agree with this. I have always hand-torqued my lugs to 83 since Day 1 including any time somebody else has the wheels off. I have 137K on original drums and shoes, and original rotors. Changed pads at 80K for premium NAPA. Truck stops smooth with no vibration. I service rear brakes every two years and flush the fluid every 2-3 years. I drive reasonably aggressively, but I rarely see mountains. As the shoes are almost done, I know my rears are doing their share.

My Brazilian '97 Surf with stock 15" wheels spends half its life in the mountains. Wear has not been as good, but no warpage problems. I don't get all the hate for the brakes.

I wonder if oversize tires causes problems. Presumably total energy through the brakes is the same, other things being equal, but rotation speed is lower while angular force is higher. Could that make a difference?
 

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