Help! Transfer case issue.

[BlackWorksInc]

Okay to clear the air on something here. The Actuator is internally pinned to the transfercase, period. What you see in the following pictures is "technically" an improperly removed actuator with part of the actuator still inside of the unit; Toyota does not want you to open those things up AT ALL and so far no one has managed to time them properly after trying to do it this way (I am hopeful that the OP http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/151582-4lo-actuator-rebuild-2.html has it working, but he mentioned he still needed to tinker with it, maybe he can chime in on it).

If you removed the actuator by partially dissasembling the case, you've done it incorrectly and invited some problems. Its a catch 22 now, because if you aren't experienced enough to time it properly (and so far we haven't confirmed proper timing has been achieved as of this post) then you need a new actuator and you need to tear down the transfercase to replace it, otherwise you're where you started.

Just to be clear. I'm not saying that the method in http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/151582-4lo-actuator-rebuild-2.html is bad, its still unproven and highly technical to make work properly; something most people and most shops wouldn't bother with because of the high risk factor. Its a possible method to repair our vehicles, but is technically "improper" according to Toyota and there's no support whatsoever if you mess it up.

 

[chmura]

Okay to clear the air on something here. The Actuator is internally pinned to the transfercase, period. What you see in the following pictures is "technically" an improperly removed actuator with part of the actuator still inside of the unit; Toyota does not want you to open those things up AT ALL and so far no one has managed to time them properly after trying to do it this way (I am hopeful that the OP http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/151582-4lo-actuator-rebuild-2.html has it working, but he mentioned he still needed to tinker with it, maybe he can chime in on it).

If you removed the actuator by partially dissasembling the case, you've done it incorrectly and invited some problems. Its a catch 22 now, because if you aren't experienced enough to time it properly (and so far we haven't confirmed proper timing has been achieved as of this post) then you need a new actuator and you need to tear down the transfercase to replace it, otherwise you're where you started.

Just to be clear. I'm not saying that the method in http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/151582-4lo-actuator-rebuild-2.html is bad, its still unproven and highly technical to make work properly; something most people and most shops wouldn't bother with because of the high risk factor. Its a possible method to repair our vehicles, but is technically "improper" according to Toyota and there's no support whatsoever if you mess it up.

Thank you for the clarification! Lots of false info flying around these forums regarding this.

What if you have a leak at the seal? Can this seal be replaced without splitting the tcase apart?

Post 34 below says you can. This is from a GX470 as I presume its the same actuator as our 4runners.

Transfer case leak - Page 3 - Club Lexus Forums

And here is another thread on ih8mud forums about it.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/120-series-toyotas/362691-transfer-case-leak.html

Read post 9.

Wish there was a DIY for opening the t case and properly replacing the actuator.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

There's a "shortcut" method to taking the actuator out without removing the entire transfercase, some dealer technicans have done it without "problems." We've had one or two members try this method and it worked... for a while. One member eventually had the entire T-case sieze up and have to have it replaced after he tried the "shortcut" method because he bent the shift rod by accident.

 

[28.]

Okay to clear the air on something here. The Actuator is internally pinned to the transfercase, period. What you see in the following pictures is "technically" an improperly removed actuator with part of the actuator still inside of the unit; Toyota does not want you to open those things up AT ALL and so far no one has managed to time them properly after trying to do it this way (I am hopeful that the OP http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/151582-4lo-actuator-rebuild-2.html has it working, but he mentioned he still needed to tinker with it, maybe he can chime in on it).

If you removed the actuator by partially dissasembling the case, you've done it incorrectly and invited some problems. Its a catch 22 now, because if you aren't experienced enough to time it properly (and so far we haven't confirmed proper timing has been achieved as of this post) then you need a new actuator and you need to tear down the transfercase to replace it, otherwise you're where you started.

Just to be clear. I'm not saying that the method in http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/151582-4lo-actuator-rebuild-2.html is bad, its still unproven and highly technical to make work properly; something most people and most shops wouldn't bother with because of the high risk factor. Its a possible method to repair our vehicles, but is technically "improper" according to Toyota and there's no support whatsoever if you mess it up.

I agree. I did remove my actuator(gears) from t-case going in knowing i was replacing both with t-case and actuator in place. Reason being my actuator i believe is what got me in trouble to begin with. I have no clue as to why it went to 4lo on its own but im taking advice from DCrunner as to disconnect it after getting it fixed.. if i do need to use 4lo I'll simply crawl under there and connect it when needed.. i cant afford for this to happen again with quite possibly worse results.. Very lucky no traffic behind me when it occurred..

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I agree. I did remove my actuator(gears) from t-case going in knowing i was replacing both with t-case and actuator in place. Reason being my actuator i believe is what got me in trouble to begin with. I have no clue as to why it went to 4lo on its own but im taking advice from DCrunner as to disconnect it after getting it fixed.. if i do need to use 4lo I'll simply crawl under there and connect it when needed.. i cant afford for this to happen again with quite possibly worse results.. Very lucky no traffic behind me when it occurred..

I would take a look at the actuator and see how nasty it looks inside, I'm thinking that may be the source of your electronic problem, but it could be possible that there's a malfunction with the 4WD ECU, can you pull codes from the system since it out of commission at the moment?

 

[28.]

I would take a look at the actuator and see how nasty it looks inside, I'm thinking that may be the source of your electronic problem, but it could be possible that there's a malfunction with the 4WD ECU, can you pull codes from the system since it out of commission at the moment?

I can try.. Will an obd2 work on these?

 

[28.]

I disagree. It is a cost benefit analysis. Why waste money on the lo system if you never use it?

Getting the 4lo system to work doubles the requirements necessary to make it happen. You need a 2 set transfer case, you need a functioning actuator to make the change. A 100% functioning 4hi system needs none of that.

If you can get it into 4hi, leave it. Be done with it. If you need low gearing, shove it into 1st gear. Sometimes it is better to look at need vs. want.

Also, it isn't just electronic. The electronic system doesn't shear metal. The departure from norm may have been electronic, but the damage is now more than electronic. Grinding and largish metal bits are not "electronic" that qualifies as metal.

Those are not the minuscule shavings you expect to see over 100, 200k.... those are what you see when stuff breaks.


If the truck is grinding and not moving, then that means that the tcase gearing is probably busted. It would be worth it to have a qualified tech take a look. If I were in your shoes? Ask them 1. damage 2. if you can get it back into normal 4hi and then rip disable to 4lo transfer to prevent this from happening again.

Well finally got the runner back together and gave this a lot of thought DC and I agree. I never use 4lo and this was actually an expensive fix.. Just don't want to do it again. I don't rock crawl, or anything like that and my truck gets me everywhere on 4H.. So my question is, How do I go about disconnecting 4lo? and will my 4lo light be alarming if I do this? Also what about the transfer case lock? will it still work? Really need help as I don't want to do this again.. Thanks

 

[28.]

The carnage...

 

[28.]

The inside was shredded.. :-(

 

[DC runner]

Let me think on it after I study the repair tech manual.

If your truck is working 100% in 4hi, then it maybe as easy as disconnecting the actuator by physically removing the wires to it. This would prevent an electronic error causing the actuator throwing you in 4lo. Is this what happened first time? Any idea?

If it was mechanically involved, say the transfer case was able to move the actuator without power, then maybe ripping the actuator off totally.

 

[28.]

Let me think on it after I study the repair tech manual.

If your truck is working 100% in 4hi, then it maybe as easy as disconnecting the actuator by physically removing the wires to it. This would prevent an electronic error causing the actuator throwing you in 4lo. Is this what happened first time? Any idea?

If it was mechanically involved, say the transfer case was able to move the actuator without power, then maybe ripping the actuator off totally.

As a matter of fact that's what we (me and buddy) assume. From looks of it the seal had been leaking also and when we took the old actuator apart it smelled like something burned. We figured some sort of short. I didn't take it to a mechanic because it would have been a total of about 1400.00 for the job. I, having 2 boys in college, couldn't go that route. So got a used replacement and did the job ourselves.
Now everything is working as should. New oil in t case and diffs( lucas synthetic). After getting done and having spent a total of about 700.00 dollars, me and my buddy both agreed that it would suck to do this again. He then brought up almost your exact point about just disconnecting the actuator to eliminate 4lo from engaging altogether. As of now i just have cable disconnected and both my locker and 4lo are flashing. No beeping though. If this will suffice i can live with it i guess. Im thinking of giving this truck to my son so as long as everything else is ok, im fine with it. Hes been wanting it for a while and all he does is school and work. Anyways if you come up with any ideas id appreciate it. Thanx for replying i really am greatful..

 

[DC runner]

Sounds like the car reads the disconnect and won't let you use center diff either, so you can't throw it into traditional 4wd.

You ok with that?

If not, I suggest hooking it back up but physically ripping the actuator out. That way you can still lock/unlock the center diff in 4hi.

 

[28.]

Hm. I figured since this trucks are full time 4WD it would always be in "AWD" mode.. Isnt actuator only for locking diff and engaging 4lo? I dont guess i understand what you mean..

 

[28.]

Ill probly put it on jackstands today and see to make sure because we assumed replacing diff would put it back to normal.. Which on this it's in AWD mode.

 

[DC runner]

That is exactly what I mean. No need to have a awd vs. Full time debate. I will use your terminology to help.

Right now,I should be in awd mode (full time 4wd as defined by Toyota) this is different from traditional 4wd. The actuator moves the transfer case from 4hi to 4lo. The center diff lock (awd to trad 4x4) is a seperate mechanism. This is why they operate differently. You can lock the diff on the fly.


Let's not get bogged down in a debate on when awd is preferred to trad 4x4, or when trad 4x4 is better and just say there are times when locking it into trad 4x4 can be helpful. Snow, for example.

If possible, I say keep the center diff lock capability.