Help where is my oil filter
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Uneek
Super Moderator
IIRC, you have to drop the skidplate to get to it. It's no longer up high like it was on the 4th gen V6. It also uses a cartridge oil filter rather than a spin-on filter.
2010 cartridge oil filter change - tips? - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
2010 cartridge oil filter change - tips? - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
074.0Runner
New member
Wow, great thinking on Toyota's part. They went from one of the eaisest oil changes ever to a freaking cartrige filter. That is total Bull shit.
Uneek
Super Moderator
Forgot where I read it, but the cartridge filter is suppose to have less impact on the environment than a spin-on filter. Part of Toyota going green.
Dragonheart
New member
2010 4Runner oil filter location & oil change
To change the oil in a 2010 Toyota 4Runner locating and accessing the oil filter is the most difficult part. The new filter is not the old typical screw off. It is a paper cartridge in a non-replaceable canister. This canister is located on the underside center of the engine, below the fan. I would recommend placing the vehicle on front ramps to allow adequate access.
To access the canister you will have to remove 4 – 14mm bolts and 2 – 10mm bolts that hold on the front portion of the skid plate. The four 14mm bolts are slightly recessed and accessed through holes in the skid plate. The two 10 mm bolts also hold on a plastic panel and are close to the outer edges of the skid plate. It is not necessary to remove the rear portion of the skid plate, which covers the oil pan. Once the bolts are removed the pan hinges down to the rear.
The filter canister can now be seen and easily accessed. The canister is black with a silver threaded cap in the center. The cap has a square 3/8” indention in the center used for removal. First unscrew the silver cap using a 3/8” ratchet extension. Note the small 0-ring behind this silver cap. I used a WIX #57173 replacement oil filter, which came with two replacement 0-rings and a small plastic plug in addition to the filter. Once the silver cap is removed insert the slotted end of the small plastic plug into the filter canister in the hole the silver cap covered. It takes a little bit of force to insert this plug. Once inserted, excess oil in the filter will drain out through this plug, so be prepared. I placed a short length of clear plastic tubing on this plug to divert the oil into my drain pan.
To remove the body of the canister I used a LISLE End Cap Filter Wrench for Toyota #54930. The cap wrench slips over the fluted end of the canister and unscrews using a 3/8” drive. Have some shop towels ready, as there will still be some oil remaining in the paper cartridge once the canister is removed. Clean the canister and replace the large 0-ring on the canister body. Insert the new cartridge and replace the canister. Replace the silver cap, inserting a new small 0-ring behind the cap in the round slot. Lift the skid plate back into its original position and replace the bolts.
To drain the oil, there is a small access panel to access the oil pan located to the rear and in the second portion to the skid plate assembly. This oval panel is held in place by two 14 mm bolts. Remove this panel and the 15 mm oil drain plug is easily accessible.
I have to say Toyota didn’t do us any favors in ease of access, but after you go through an oil change once it’s really not that bad. Since Toyota now recommends oil changes at 10K intervals a lot of folks will only have to do this once a year.
To change the oil in a 2010 Toyota 4Runner locating and accessing the oil filter is the most difficult part. The new filter is not the old typical screw off. It is a paper cartridge in a non-replaceable canister. This canister is located on the underside center of the engine, below the fan. I would recommend placing the vehicle on front ramps to allow adequate access.
To access the canister you will have to remove 4 – 14mm bolts and 2 – 10mm bolts that hold on the front portion of the skid plate. The four 14mm bolts are slightly recessed and accessed through holes in the skid plate. The two 10 mm bolts also hold on a plastic panel and are close to the outer edges of the skid plate. It is not necessary to remove the rear portion of the skid plate, which covers the oil pan. Once the bolts are removed the pan hinges down to the rear.
The filter canister can now be seen and easily accessed. The canister is black with a silver threaded cap in the center. The cap has a square 3/8” indention in the center used for removal. First unscrew the silver cap using a 3/8” ratchet extension. Note the small 0-ring behind this silver cap. I used a WIX #57173 replacement oil filter, which came with two replacement 0-rings and a small plastic plug in addition to the filter. Once the silver cap is removed insert the slotted end of the small plastic plug into the filter canister in the hole the silver cap covered. It takes a little bit of force to insert this plug. Once inserted, excess oil in the filter will drain out through this plug, so be prepared. I placed a short length of clear plastic tubing on this plug to divert the oil into my drain pan.
To remove the body of the canister I used a LISLE End Cap Filter Wrench for Toyota #54930. The cap wrench slips over the fluted end of the canister and unscrews using a 3/8” drive. Have some shop towels ready, as there will still be some oil remaining in the paper cartridge once the canister is removed. Clean the canister and replace the large 0-ring on the canister body. Insert the new cartridge and replace the canister. Replace the silver cap, inserting a new small 0-ring behind the cap in the round slot. Lift the skid plate back into its original position and replace the bolts.
To drain the oil, there is a small access panel to access the oil pan located to the rear and in the second portion to the skid plate assembly. This oval panel is held in place by two 14 mm bolts. Remove this panel and the 15 mm oil drain plug is easily accessible.
I have to say Toyota didn’t do us any favors in ease of access, but after you go through an oil change once it’s really not that bad. Since Toyota now recommends oil changes at 10K intervals a lot of folks will only have to do this once a year.
Uneek
Super Moderator
Sharp contrast from the 4th gen V6.
blaniac22
Member
It's not easy...being green.
New to this forum... due to necessity.
Bought a 2011 4Runner a few months ago. Decided to change the oil for the first time last evening. Started looking for the oil filter canister and didn't find it... easily. Since the owners manuel is almost worthless, I did a quick search on the internet this morning and found this forum. Thank you Dragonheart for detailed info :thanks:
Now when I get home this evening, I will complete the task of changing the oil... and move on down my list. I think mowing is next
Bought a 2011 4Runner a few months ago. Decided to change the oil for the first time last evening. Started looking for the oil filter canister and didn't find it... easily. Since the owners manuel is almost worthless, I did a quick search on the internet this morning and found this forum. Thank you Dragonheart for detailed info :thanks:
Now when I get home this evening, I will complete the task of changing the oil... and move on down my list. I think mowing is next
KB084RUNNER
New member
My wife has a 2008 Lexus ES350 with the V6 and the cartridge filter. Once you are used to it...not so bad. But it is still a big PITA compared to a screw on filter. However I will say this:
WARNING: When removing the o-rings from the aluminum cartridge filter housing use a WOOD toothpick and NOT A METAL instrument. If you scratch the aluminum threads they will leak and are not repairable.
WARNING: DO NOT torque the aluminum cartridge back on. when screwing it back on do it hand tight then insert 3/8 drive extension and give it a snug to make sure it is all the way on. Once it is seated...that's it. The large o-ring seals it against the inside of the housing. You need to lubricate the o-ring with some oil as well. You will feel the resistance of the o-ring contacting the housing surface when screwing it back in. DO NOT force it on.
BTW, when I looked over the GEN 5 runner I decided to buy out my lease on my GEN 4
WARNING: When removing the o-rings from the aluminum cartridge filter housing use a WOOD toothpick and NOT A METAL instrument. If you scratch the aluminum threads they will leak and are not repairable.
WARNING: DO NOT torque the aluminum cartridge back on. when screwing it back on do it hand tight then insert 3/8 drive extension and give it a snug to make sure it is all the way on. Once it is seated...that's it. The large o-ring seals it against the inside of the housing. You need to lubricate the o-ring with some oil as well. You will feel the resistance of the o-ring contacting the housing surface when screwing it back in. DO NOT force it on.
BTW, when I looked over the GEN 5 runner I decided to buy out my lease on my GEN 4
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KB084RUNNER
New member
That's what they said about root canals :repuke:
Pensacola33
New member
Thanks. I had to copy, paste on a Word document, and save it for future reference once my 75,000 mile maintenance package runs out. Great write up!
user name:
New member
thanks for the tips. I was stumped this weekend trying to find my oil pan and all I found was small access panel with a baby pan hidden away. It aint easy being green i guess.
How can they possibly think that this new oil filter that uses a process that will require dozens of paper towels and spill oil everywhere has less impact than the old oil filter where you could almost change it with just one paper towel and if you are really good no drips or drops anywhere? The only difference is the metal housing which is far easier to recycle than the oil-soaked towels. This new method is far worse.
