Help with a/c pulley tension bolts. Repaired with parts from Amazon listed below

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Help with a/c pulley tension bolts

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Ok so it was rusted together, finally after a few good whacks with a giant screw driver and a bah it came apart. Ordered the new one on Amazon and put the pulley back on via a concoction of washers and a bolt so that the belt is nice and loose till I get the replacement parts. Just won’t run the A/C till then.


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Ok so it was rusted together, finally after a few good whacks with a giant screw driver and a bah it came apart. Ordered the new one on Amazon and put the pulley back on via a concoction of washers and a bolt so that the belt is nice and loose till I get the replacement parts. Just won’t run the A/C till then.


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ah the rust belt, destroying auto parts since 1938
 
ah the rust belt, destroying auto parts since 1938



Yes. As you can tell from the pictures most of the time repairs are not as easy as planned. Just wanted to change the pulley and tighten the belt but nooooo


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So up north I've always wondered there isn't anything preventative u can do to stop rust.

buy a good used truck from the south, this is the best rust preventer, then don't drive it in the winter.

you can spray things down with fluid film, WD40 and a host of other things and it does a decent job but you can't ever stop doing it.

I was able to get one to last 20 years but it rusted the frame from the inside out. the rust belts purpose is to donate decent low mile engines and transmissions to everybody else.

if you live in the salt you just accept the fact that every 15-20 years you purchase a new car/truck. that is how it works for almost everybody and nobody really questions it.
 
buy a good used truck from the south, this is the best rust preventer, then don't drive it in the winter.

you can spray things down with fluid film, WD40 and a host of other things and it does a decent job but you can't ever stop doing it.

I was able to get one to last 20 years but it rusted the frame from the inside out. the rust belts purpose is to donate decent low mile engines and transmissions to everybody else.

if you live in the salt you just accept the fact that every 15-20 years you purchase a new car/truck. that is how it works for almost everybody and nobody really questions it.

Interesting welp I live in the South but was always curious .
 
buy a good used truck from the south, this is the best rust preventer, then don't drive it in the winter.

you can spray things down with fluid film, WD40 and a host of other things and it does a decent job but you can't ever stop doing it.

I was able to get one to last 20 years but it rusted the frame from the inside out. the rust belts purpose is to donate decent low mile engines and transmissions to everybody else.

if you live in the salt you just accept the fact that every 15-20 years you purchase a new car/truck. that is how it works for almost everybody and nobody really questions it.
Yeah but don't you spray the inside of the frame too, that's the most important part? If thorough, rust can be easily stopped completely in the salt belt. Just spray everything.
 
Yeah but don't you spray the inside of the frame too, that's the most important part? If thorough, rust can be easily stopped completely in the salt belt. Just spray everything.

FTFY

“Can be easily stopped” = “can be slowed”

I agree things can be done to slow it but I would drop the easily out of that. Getting down under the vehicle or putting it up on jack stands and spraying whatever on everything making a mess and getting covered yourself. Not sure I would call it easy. People just don’t do it because it’s a PIA.

I use fluid film and it works.
 
FTFY

“Can be easily stopped” = “can be slowed”

I agree things can be done to slow it but I would drop the easily out of that. Getting down under the vehicle or putting it up on jack stands and spraying whatever on everything making a mess and getting covered yourself. Not sure I would call it easy. People just don’t do it because it’s a PIA.

I use fluid film and it works.

In the essence of this guy -
“Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you're right.” Henry Ford

I'll give you my take, if I save one 4runner with a dedicated owner from the scrap yard, it was worth my time.
Salt belt rust is completely preventable and easy depending your approach. It should be easy, or you'll be burdened with it and say F it and not do it, or half ass it.
Old timers been doing it for decades going back 50 years or whenever salt destruction was finally pissing people off. They would spray on diesel fuel, some would even brush on motor oil, and decades later the rigs stood the test of time and didn't rot. But in this modern age we have better options. Fluid Film, POR-15, WD-40, etc....these are ALL good, just depends on how you do it and how you treat it throughout the season. MOST important thing NEVER drive it thru a car wash, the blast of the high pressure water and soap will take off the coating and totally F up the effectiveness. You should have a constant "full grime" on your underbelly. That's the barrier for salt/water. Salt in scientific terms has high electric conductivity with water and greatly speeds up by many multiples the effect of water corrosion.

Here's what I do to completely halt rust. I am passionate about rust prevention for real.
30 minutes for an application, no jacks, can be a factory lift height in the driveway, you don't wanna be climbing under it with dripping. I do an application just before Massachusetts 1st snow fall in Dec and maybe another around Feb, I don't really need to do a 2nd at this point with my seasoned grime coating, but I do for extra measure and its easy anyway.
- Get a 10 ft wide roll of cheap plastic for overspray, lay on driveway with some wood or rocks to stop from blowing around, drive you runner on top of it, drop your factory spare if you want.
-Your rust preventive of choice, Fluid Film, POR-15, WD-40....I use WD-40 myself, need gallon container and spray can bottle of your pref RP with tiny little WD-40 style hose.
-Wear mask, some spray worthy clothing, maybe Tyvek disposable jump suit, I use a military jump suit, rubber gloves, have some rags or paper towels for spillage.
-Need compressor, hose and cheap auto paint sprayer with no spray tip from AutoZone.
-Have compressor at like 130psi, fill sprayer bottle and get busy.
-Spray thru all air holes on side of frame from back to front angling sprayer as many directions as possible, spray thru round cross tube, the whole inside of frame should be coated nicely.
-Next spray full outside of frame, just reach under and spray everything, reach your arm under, with high pressure it, all hit cross rails, inside of bumpers if you like have those thin chromes.
-Spray complete rear end, springs, control arms frigging everything, just stay clear of brakes, ok shut off compressor.
-Now get your spray can, in my case WD-40, spray thru every drain hole in bottom of doors to coat inside of door bottom, rear hatch bottom drain holes, hood bottom drain holes, rocker panel drain holes (you may have to spread pinch weld holes a bit with a screw driver if your hose cant get in), rockers can hold moisture, also the sunroof drains out thru rockers.
-Ok, done, put stuff away, we're at 29 minutes, still time to crack a beer in under 30.
-Leave rig sitting for a while to drip off, maybe even overnight.
-MOST IMPORTANT DO NOT DRIVE THRU CAR WASH, keep your undercarriage grime salt barrier. Anything that was orange rust before will eventually turn to blackish film, painted stuff should have the grime. That's the protection, rust has been halted if you keep up the seasonal application.
NOTE : See my GARAGE closeup pic of rearend/diff, thats a clear image of a seasoned rust prevention barrier. That grime is on my rig undercarriage, year round, I never wash it off.
 
In the essence of this guy -
“Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you're right.” Henry Ford

I'll give you my take, if I save one 4runner with a dedicated owner from the scrap yard, it was worth my time.
Salt belt rust is completely preventable and easy depending your approach. It should be easy, or you'll be burdened with it and say F it and not do it, or half ass it.
Old timers been doing it for decades going back 50 years or whenever salt destruction was finally pissing people off. They would spray on diesel fuel, some would even brush on motor oil, and decades later the rigs stood the test of time and didn't rot. But in this modern age we have better options. Fluid Film, POR-15, WD-40, etc....these are ALL good, just depends on how you do it and how you treat it throughout the season. MOST important thing NEVER drive it thru a car wash, the blast of the high pressure water and soap will take off the coating and totally F up the effectiveness. You should have a constant "full grime" on your underbelly. That's the barrier for salt/water. Salt in scientific terms has high electric conductivity with water and greatly speeds up by many multiples the effect of water corrosion.

Here's what I do to completely halt rust. I am passionate about rust prevention for real.
30 minutes for an application, no jacks, can be a factory lift height in the driveway, you don't wanna be climbing under it with dripping. I do an application just before Massachusetts 1st snow fall in Dec and maybe another around Feb, I don't really need to do a 2nd at this point with my seasoned grime coating, but I do for extra measure and its easy anyway.
- Get a 10 ft wide roll of cheap plastic for overspray, lay on driveway with some wood or rocks to stop from blowing around, drive you runner on top of it, drop your factory spare if you want.
-Your rust preventive of choice, Fluid Film, POR-15, WD-40....I use WD-40 myself, need gallon container and spray can bottle of your pref RP with tiny little WD-40 style hose.
-Wear mask, some spray worthy clothing, maybe Tyvek disposable jump suit, I use a military jump suit, rubber gloves, have some rags or paper towels for spillage.
-Need compressor, hose and cheap auto paint sprayer with no spray tip from AutoZone.
-Have compressor at like 130psi, fill sprayer bottle and get busy.
-Spray thru all air holes on side of frame from back to front angling sprayer as many directions as possible, spray thru round cross tube, the whole inside of frame should be coated nicely.
-Next spray full outside of frame, just reach under and spray everything, reach your arm under, with high pressure it, all hit cross rails, inside of bumpers if you like have those thin chromes.
-Spray complete rear end, springs, control arms frigging everything, just stay clear of brakes, ok shut off compressor.
-Now get your spray can, in my case WD-40, spray thru every drain hole in bottom of doors to coat inside of door bottom, rear hatch bottom drain holes, hood bottom drain holes, rocker panel drain holes (you may have to spread pinch weld holes a bit with a screw driver if your hose cant get in), rockers can hold moisture, also the sunroof drains out thru rockers.
-Ok, done, put stuff away, we're at 29 minutes, still time to crack a beer in under 30.
-Leave rig sitting for a while to drip off, maybe even overnight.
-MOST IMPORTANT DO NOT DRIVE THRU CAR WASH, keep your undercarriage grime salt barrier. Anything that was orange rust before will eventually turn to blackish film, painted stuff should have the grime. That's the protection, rust has been halted if you keep up the seasonal application.
NOTE : See my GARAGE closeup pic of rearend/diff, thats a clear image of a seasoned rust prevention barrier. That grime is on my rig undercarriage, year round, I never wash it off.

So that black grime looking stuff prevents rust from occurring wow... That amazing .
 
In the essence of this guy -
“Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you're right.” Henry Ford

I'll give you my take, if I save one 4runner with a dedicated owner from the scrap yard, it was worth my time.
Salt belt rust is completely preventable and easy depending your approach. It should be easy, or you'll be burdened with it and say F it and not do it, or half ass it.
Old timers been doing it for decades going back 50 years or whenever salt destruction was finally pissing people off. They would spray on diesel fuel, some would even brush on motor oil, and decades later the rigs stood the test of time and didn't rot. But in this modern age we have better options. Fluid Film, POR-15, WD-40, etc....these are ALL good, just depends on how you do it and how you treat it throughout the season. MOST important thing NEVER drive it thru a car wash, the blast of the high pressure water and soap will take off the coating and totally F up the effectiveness. You should have a constant "full grime" on your underbelly. That's the barrier for salt/water. Salt in scientific terms has high electric conductivity with water and greatly speeds up by many multiples the effect of water corrosion.

Here's what I do to completely halt rust. I am passionate about rust prevention for real.
30 minutes for an application, no jacks, can be a factory lift height in the driveway, you don't wanna be climbing under it with dripping. I do an application just before Massachusetts 1st snow fall in Dec and maybe another around Feb, I don't really need to do a 2nd at this point with my seasoned grime coating, but I do for extra measure and its easy anyway.
- Get a 10 ft wide roll of cheap plastic for overspray, lay on driveway with some wood or rocks to stop from blowing around, drive you runner on top of it, drop your factory spare if you want.
-Your rust preventive of choice, Fluid Film, POR-15, WD-40....I use WD-40 myself, need gallon container and spray can bottle of your pref RP with tiny little WD-40 style hose.
-Wear mask, some spray worthy clothing, maybe Tyvek disposable jump suit, I use a military jump suit, rubber gloves, have some rags or paper towels for spillage.
-Need compressor, hose and cheap auto paint sprayer with no spray tip from AutoZone.
-Have compressor at like 130psi, fill sprayer bottle and get busy.
-Spray thru all air holes on side of frame from back to front angling sprayer as many directions as possible, spray thru round cross tube, the whole inside of frame should be coated nicely.
-Next spray full outside of frame, just reach under and spray everything, reach your arm under, with high pressure it, all hit cross rails, inside of bumpers if you like have those thin chromes.
-Spray complete rear end, springs, control arms frigging everything, just stay clear of brakes, ok shut off compressor.
-Now get your spray can, in my case WD-40, spray thru every drain hole in bottom of doors to coat inside of door bottom, rear hatch bottom drain holes, hood bottom drain holes, rocker panel drain holes (you may have to spread pinch weld holes a bit with a screw driver if your hose cant get in), rockers can hold moisture, also the sunroof drains out thru rockers.
-Ok, done, put stuff away, we're at 29 minutes, still time to crack a beer in under 30.
-Leave rig sitting for a while to drip off, maybe even overnight.
-MOST IMPORTANT DO NOT DRIVE THRU CAR WASH, keep your undercarriage grime salt barrier. Anything that was orange rust before will eventually turn to blackish film, painted stuff should have the grime. That's the protection, rust has been halted if you keep up the seasonal application.
NOTE : See my GARAGE closeup pic of rearend/diff, thats a clear image of a seasoned rust prevention barrier. That grime is on my rig undercarriage, year round, I never wash it off.

I don’t know I see rust on that diff

I used to have a old guy who lived next time me and he saved all his old used engine oil. He would then spray it all over the underside of his amc matador. It was rust free but the car did catch fire and was a complete loss. He said he had been doing it for 30 years and that never happened before.

So... if it works for you great but I will just keep my winter beater and only drive my 4 runner in the summer.
 
I don’t know I see rust on that diff

I used to have a old guy who lived next time me and he saved all his old used engine oil. He would then spray it all over the underside of his amc matador. It was rust free but the car did catch fire and was a complete loss. He said he had been doing it for 30 years and that never happened before.

So... if it works for you great but I will just keep my winter beater and only drive my 4 runner in the summer.
Not sure what you're seeing. I bought this latest 3rd gen local in 2015, its real solid and had only very minor rust, and that's been halted completely.
But sure just trying to help. Lot of us drive the snowy salty roads and manage to fight it out successfully. The Winter beater is another good option if you can do it. I've been trying to convince the wife to move to a warmer climate, which may happen at some point, and that will be nice avoiding this issue all together.
 
Help with a/c pulley tension bolts

OK all fixed and back up and running Just in time for the 90° Michigan temperatures here’s the parts I bought I went cheap because it’s not a failure prone part
I went with the stainless steel bolt for the adjustment simply because I never want to have to mess with it again

uxcell M8 x 90mm Fully Threaded 304 Stainless Steel Hex Head Screw Bolt 4 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0159MLKVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LDsnBb74K69KB


Febest - Toyota Pulley Idler - Oem: 88440-35060 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C6N0UGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dEsnBbFFVAM9N


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Ok screw the aftermarket pulley!!! It’s making noise !!! Toyota from here on out
Toyota 88440-35060 Drive Belt Idler Pulley https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006YCMUM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YounBb3SGKZ82


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Are you positive it's the pulley making the noise and not the belt with improper tension? Just saying...

At any rate, thanks for the part number; a while back I had an issue adjusting the AC belt tension after I replaced all 3 belts, I was able to get the bolt to loosen but the damn tensioner was rusted in place and did not budge. I ended up removing the pulley and fought to put it back on with the new belt on it... Finally got it on there and the tension was barely enough for no chirp until just recently, the tension on belt needs tightened which i can't do...

Yep, the rust belt sucks man! In a couple of weeks I'm having my timing belt/water pump done, along with valve cover gaskets, so I'll have the shop sort it out... Don't know how they'll persuade it and normally I wouldn't want to know but since these ppl are former Toyota master techs, I think (hope) they'll be somewhat gentle and use tricks up their sleeve! :)
 
Are you positive it's the pulley making the noise and not the belt with improper tension? Just saying...


Yes absolutely!! It didn’t feel real smooth in the hand before install and definitely is the bearings.



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