Help with Camping Trailer Build

[cp99sr5]

I bought a used 4x6 utility trailer off CL that was home built by a guy who retired from the steel industry and I am in the process of converting it to a camping trailer.

He could not tell me much about the carrying capacity so I am reaching out for help on determining a few things, the axle is a square tube, I was able to measure it as 2 inches per side, I did not use a micrometer therefore it could be a bit larger. The axle has a 4 inch offset at the hub upward. the hub is a 5 lug and the spread is the common 5 x 4.5.

My questions. :couch2:

1. Anyone help me on determining the axle capacity, I looked on the web and cant find anything even close in looks, the estimate is 2K to 3.5K lbs.

2. Is there a way to determine carrying capacity of the springs? Neither the axle or springs have any markings on them. The guy who built it said they came off an air compressor trailer that is used for jack hammers.

3. I would like more ground clearance, right now the axle is mounted above the springs and the 4 inch offset then raises the wheel higher/closer to the trailer. It would scrape on a pebble as is. Any thoughts/benefits/drawbacks on flipping it to under the springe and even changing the current axle drop/offset to be down instead of up?

4. The tires are currently Michelin radial X's P195/75 R14's. There is not a whole lot of room for a larger tire right now but a lift would change that for height but not width so would a spacer provide the room to prevent rubbing and not cause other issues with capacity or weakness?

Thanks in advance for the help :hippie:

 

[indawire]

Trailer Capacity

I'd go to the Northern Tool Catalog or Tractor Supply store and take the measurements of what you have with you. I'm sure you'll find something very simular which will put you close enough to what that trailer will hold. That's a nice looking rig.

 

[twitchee2]

Take the wheels off and measure the bearings, this will give you a clear idea on what size this axle is.

 

[77Bronc]

Please understand I am not a trailer expert, but have owned many over the years and just the fact that the springs are slipper type is telling me the load capacity will be on the lighter side, 2000 LB maybe?

The axle looks sturdy and I have to say I have never seen hubs like these, unless I am missing something in the picture.

The trailer looks like it has potential...would you mind sharing what you paid for the trailer?

I want to build a camping trailer, but I might purchase a 4x6 or 5x8 and modify as needed.

77

 

[gimbalsoph]

I'm sure you'll find something very simular which will put you close enough to what that trailer will hold. That's a nice looking rig.

 

[Dropzone]

Why did the guy use too short of bolts?
Those upper two bolts are scary...not even fully through the nut.
Go over this thing with a fine tooth conmb

 

[KidVermicious]

Oh boy, trailer talk! I've been working on one or two in my spare time, and I've learned a couple things so hopefully I can save you some time and elbow grease here. First off, don't bother with a spring over, ditch those springs completely. Those shorty slipper springs are moderately acceptable on pavement, but get them on a rough road at anything over 5mph and your trailer will spend half it's time airborne. I have literally shaken one of my small trailers to death due to small wheels and slipper springs, I'm in the middle of rebuilding it now. Best would be a link or radius arm suspension with shocks and air bags (radius arms and air bags + shocks is my plan), but a set of long leaf springs will do. Flipping the axle is an option, but depending on who built it there could be a bit of camber built in, flipping the axle would reverse that and lead to funny tire wear.

That axle looks a hell of a lot like homebrew though, inner hitch steel with hub flanges welded on which means probably no built in camber? You could find out real quick with a level and an angle finder. I dunno what the actual weight capacity of that axle is, but I'm gonna go with "more than your 4runner can pull" , so I wouldn't sweat it. And those bolts are ok, for what it's worth, you can throw longer ones in there if you want, but a bolt in tension has most of the load on the first four or five threads. Those look like pretty thick nuts so I think you're ok there.

So I don't know how much you sunk into that, but you've got a bit of work in front of you to make it ideal for offroad use. If I were going to try and use that I'd do a couple things - first, ditch the axle. Get a 3000 pound axle with 6x5.5 lugs from a trailer supply, that'll let you rob a trailer wheel for a spare in a pinch and it'll probably be much lighter than that monster you've got now. Then consider your suspension - a set of whatever cheap truck springs you can find will work much better than those slipper springs and be super easy to fab. $50 at a junkyard and a new set of ubolts and you'll be set. If you're feeling ambitious, a radius arm or three link suspension will tow better but be more complicated to build. Then you're going to need to get bigger fenders if you want to run a decent size tire without raising the trailer fifty feet in the air, and that looks like it means reworking the treadplate steps on the side. And finally you'll want something a little more ideal than that open box on it - I assume you're considering an RTT, which means a solid elevated frame to mount it on, and a weatherproof lid would be good too... And then depending on where you're planning on taking it, you might want to ditch the standard ball coupler for a pintle and lunette or a three axis coupler, and you'll definitely want to lengthen the tongue a bit so you can jackknife it without fear for your quarterpanels.

When all is said and done, the only part of the trailer you'll be keeping is the frame, and honestly even that looks pretty heavy for a camping trailer. I don't think it's worth the effort to make it how you want it - I think you should put it back together and use it like it is, or take the lesson as learned and start from scratch.

 

[cp99sr5]

Thanks everyone for the knowledge sharing, really appreciate the advice. I bought the trailer off CL for $800. It came with four almost new Michelin X radials (probably not the best tire for a trailer I hear), three steel rims and a bunch of spare rear and marker lights. I have been looking a long time to get something for camping. I looked at the Lowes, Northern Tool and Harbor Freight trailers as a base but by the time I added larger wheels and a few other goodies I was already over a grand without the labor to get it to where I thought this trailer was as is. I dont know much about trailers beyond what I have learned myself so it is a learn as I go project.

So I will measure the axle and bearings this weekend. I have since learned that drop axles are mostly used to get the load closer to the ground to make it easier to load and unload. Based on that I would get a close enough load rating.

Kid, you are correct, its an open box without a true side frame, the tub was constructed of 3/16th's aluminunum diamond plate on the sides and 1/4 inch on the floor, the pattern is however on the inside and not the outside because the guy who built it made it with material he got for free (he worked at a steel company locally). He hauled garden and home improvement material mostly. The tailgate is a slide in contraption, not a real pull down. but the cost of the material, frame and tires alone would put me higher than what this cost.

What I was envisioning was having someone weld in a side frame, repurpose the diamond plate and that would be the basis for a true camping build with an RTT eventually. But for right now what I need is a place to safely store and carry my gear, I am freaking tired of the time it takes for me to get ready to go and as I have gotten older and lazier, I think that PIA work is preventing me from going out more often. What I want to do now is find a way to get a secure lid that I can lock onto it and try a few trips first before I mod some more. For the lid I am leaning toward a two door hinged top but since I have "lips" on it, maybe a slide on would work to keep the honest thieves honest. You might be right in that this may not have been the best for what I want so live and learn but my off roading is fairly mild so I may still be able to use it with some improvements! Thanks again for the guidance - Chris

 

[WMU53]

Hello

Torsion axles donot stand the test of time+weight+off road.

Ditch the axle for a 3500 lb rated unit and the shackles can be used. Your weight limit will then be according to the tires but on a single axle I wouldn't exceed 3000 lbs. While your purchasing the tires should be a mud chucking type that will not collect the mud.

Comments are for off road mud trails. I have the experiences.

 

[cp99sr5]

WMU53, it is not a torsion axle, it is a regular straight drop axle. Right now I have the trailer at a shop, they are extending the tongue, Moving the front trailer jack, adding rear jacks, a tailgate and reshaping and reinforcing the tub top so I can add some weight to it. Once that is done, I will get a new straight axle without a drop as you suggested, that should get me a four inch lift and maybe more if I mount it under springs and then larger tires.

 

[jlstick2]

How much did you pay for the trailer?
I'm looking to set up something similar.

 

[cp99sr5]

jlstick2 - I paid $800 for the trailer. It came with four almost new Michelin X radials, three steel rims and a bunch of spare rear and marker lights. Its an open box without a true side frame, the tub was constructed of 3/16th's aluminum diamond plate on the sides and 1/4 inch on the floor, the tailgate is a slide in contraption.

 

[jlstick2]

Thanks!

 

[viaotone]

this will give you a clear idea on what size this axle is.