Help with Dual Battery setup Redarc1225D

[SnoRnR]

I am in the process of purchasing the parts for my dual battery install next month. I have already installed the Shrockworks Dual battery kit.

My setup will be:
Odyssey PC34R-1500 68AH (34Ah usable for 50% SOC)
Redarc BCDC 1225D
Blue Sea 6 Fuse Block (Fridge, extra Blue Sea USB/12v in trunk and power to RTT Anderson plugs on cable - only connected when deployed) Charging ipad/phone. Maybe run a 12v fan or electric blanket.
160w Renorgy Flexible solar on top of RTT
Deployable 100w solar blanket to supplement above when at base camp.
Stich Pro-9100 (Running AUX lights/loads and controlling compressor)
Blue Sea 12v USB/cigarette outlet in trunk.


Reason for Renorgy on the tent is that we hike and climb so the rig is left at trailheads for hours. Did not want a 1000 dollar solar blanket left hanging while away. (Bonus is this is cheapish. Although, I think you can have overheating issues with is stuck to the tent.

Draw while camping
2AH x 12 = 24Ah for Fridge (Poss National Luna 55L)
0.9amps x 2 = 1.8 amps x 4hrs =7.2 amps for camp lights (Baja Designs S2 x 2)
Occasional 12v fan in tent 0.31A x 8hrs = 2.48Amps
TOTAL 33.68

Solar should supply 6-8 Amps for 6hrs (Weather Dependant) = 36 to 48amps
Also, topped up by Redarc when mobile each day.
Once static and present at camp will deploy a supplementary 100-120W blanket (Further 6-8amps)

We mostly travel around but may spend a day or two at one location. We never stay in the same place for much longer than 2-3 days.

Questions
1) Redarc states 6AWG wire for our cable lengths. (Would it be better to use 4AWG?) The Redarc will be mounted directly on top of AUX battery so seems overkill 4AWG. Also, states 40amp MIDI fuse for low resistance (Heat). (These things are huge) Would a 40amp circuit breaker or terminal mount fuse be ok? So, going with 8 AWG as recommended by Redarc. Ordered some metric 40 AMP inline MIDI fuse holders. Much smaller.

2) I want to run 2 pairs of cables to the rear for the fridge and Blue Sea 12v/USB. The fridge will be direct to battery via Anderson connector in rear. Is 10AWG good for the fridge or overkill? Hoping for lowest amp loss/most efficient. Going with 10 AWG for fridge with Anderson. 12 AWG for 12v USB/cigarette.

3) If I use 10AWG for the fridge will it be ok with a 50amp Anderson connector? I know Anderson is made for thicker gauge possibly 6AWG. You can purchase smaller terminal posts for Anderson so 10 AWG is fine.

4) Switch Pro will be mounted on the other side of the engine bay from the AUX battery. What size wire should I use? 2/4AWG? I know it's rated to 125A but would it ever draw that? Going from Blue Sea cable recommendation chart 2AWG would be required. Answered my own question 2 AWG it is.
5) I will be making a mounting bracket for the top of the AUX battery (Mount Redarc BCDC plus 6 fuse Blue Seas block) Will any plastic board be good for this? Looking at HDPE or Acrylic on Amazon 1/2 inch thickness. Never done this before so don't know the tolerances (strength/heat) of these materials. HDPE cutting board ¼ or ½ thick.

6) What gauge and how many wires can you fit down the windshield trunking?

7) Anyone have any ideas for a connection terminal for the solar (Plastic section at the base of the windshield corner) For connecting Anderson (solar). I may just run the cable into the hood then have Anderson connectors under there. Going with weatherproof SAE terminal in the plastic at the corner of the hood. Will utilise SAE to Anderson for solar. This will make adding more solar later easy.

8) Is it ok to earth the AUX battery to the chassis/frame? Or should I run it to the starter battery? What size cable should I use for the earth? Running earth from Redarc to AUX battery terminal, then going to run a length of maybe 2 AWG from AUX neg to Starter Neg. Couldn’t really find anything solid on gauge size. Normally use the same as the positive connecting the batteries. However, in this case, positive feed is via DC-DC so much smaller.


Trying to streamline the cable buying. I will use Marine grade Ancor cables.
10 AWG (To AUX RTT/solar and Fridge)
8 AWG (Redarc install)
2 AWG (Switch Pro)
12 AWG most over 12v loads (Roof lights/ AUX 12v/USB)

I already have a dual ARB compressor mounted to the starter battery. This will be controlled by Switch Pro but the power to remain on the starter. I only use it while the engine is running.
I will install a winch too powered from the starter.

All other accessories will be via Switch Pro (AUX).
6 Fuse Blue Sea (AUX).
Fridge direct to AUX.

 

[jhguth]

1) With the charger mounted directly above the battery (so circuit length <5'?) redarc recommends 6AWG for 25A? That is overkill. Or are you asking about wire to the solar panel? I'd use the fuse they recommend, they're not that big and you can get in-line MIDI fuse holders.

2) I think 10 AWG is the most common I've seen used for the fridge, I ran 8 AWG because I had it. The pre-made ARB and Dometic wiring use 10 AWG for example.

6) I was not happy when I tried to fit 8 AWG wires in the windshield trim, I ended up going through the rear instead.

7) they make through panel connectors you can use, I have a place to plug in 120V for onboard charging but you could use a similar spot for solar. I have no idea what wire gauge this is so I'm not recommending this product specifically, but this is the type of socket I am talking about: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031BOTFC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_eiHiEbRQ7QJK2
and here is my suggestion for where you could install it (ignore the red circle i was showing the antenna mount). The plastic panel pops right off and you can drill through it, it's cheap to replace if you change your mind later:
https://i.imgur.com/B3K4UK6.jpg

 

[SnoRnR]

1) With the charger mounted directly above the battery (so circuit length <5'?) redarc recommends 6AWG for 25A? That is overkill. Or are you asking about wire to the solar panel? I'd use the fuse they recommend, they're not that big and you can get in-line MIDI fuse holders.

They recommend 6AWG <5M and 8AWG >5m but I only have 1 cable under that. I could use 8 but some runs would be close.

2) I think 10 AWG is the most common I've seen used for the fridge, I ran 8 AWG because I had it. The pre-made ARB and Dometic wiring use 10 AWG for example.
Awesome
6) I was not happy when I tried to fit 8 AWG wires in the windshield trim, I ended up going through the rear instead.
Ok maybe I will run 12 or 14 for lights on roof rack. Leave the 10AWG for RTT power and solar as a short length that I can connect when needed.

7) they make through panel connectors you can use, I have a place to plug in 120V for onboard charging but you could use a similar spot for solar. I have no idea what wire gauge this is so I'm not recommending this product specifically, but this is the type of socket I am talking about: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031BOTFC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_eiHiEbRQ7QJK2
and here is my suggestion for where you could install it (ignore the red circle i was showing the antenna mount). The plastic panel pops right off and you can drill through it, it's cheap to replace if you change your mind later:
https://i.imgur.com/B3K4UK6.jpg

Is that a NOCO? I have seen them for shore power. Guessing I could just use the connector you have with an Anderson on the other end.

 

[jhguth]

Is that a NOCO? I have seen them for shore power. Guessing I could just use the connector you have with an Anderson on the other end.

yeah it's for a NOCO charger

i wouldn't use that same 120V connector for DC, but a similar with SAE or if you are using anderson, they have similar for anderson connections: Powerwerx PanelPole, Panel Mount Housing for Two Powerpole Connectors with a Weather Resistant Cover | Powerwerx

 

[bring_it_on]

You appear to have planned a pretty solid set up. I'm planning something on these lines as well but am currently leaning towards the Manager 30 and a 75 Ah lithium battery along with a 100 watt solar panel. The Aux. battery will power lights, fridge and an inverter while the starter battery (Group 34 AGM) will power the air-compressor and winch..

 

[jdm-v35]

[MENTION=343163]SnoRnR[/MENTION] I would also recommend getting the 34-pc1500 vs the 34R if you are orienting the battery with the terminals facing inward like the oem battery, as the 34R would put the +terminal very close to the passenger fender wall. it it happened to move and touch there would be some fireworks.

I am actually just finishing up the wiring for my dual battery setup today using the shrockworks kit as well with a 34-pc1500

 

[filoufil]

Here's a couple answers:

3) If I use 10AWG fro the fridge will it be ok with a 50amp Anderson connector? I know Anderson is made for thicker gauge possibly 6AWG.

I use an anderson connector with my ARB wiring kit. The connector size you are looking for is an SB50 and they have connector for wires as small as 12AWG. Take a look at the datasheet and pick the appropriate connector for your wire guage: https://www.mouser.ca/datasheet/2/22/ds-sb50-1652903.pdf

4) Switch Pro will be mounted on the other side of the engine bay from the AUX battery. What size wire should I use? 2/4AWG? I know it's rated to 125A but would it ever draw that? Going from Blue Sea cable recommendation chart 2AWG would be required.

I would go with 2AWG if that is what is recommend for the length and amperage. Unless you predicted your build and know for sure you would never use 125A.

5) I will be making a mounting bracket for the top of the AUX battery (Mount Redarc BCDC plus 6 fuse Blue Seas block) Will any plastic board be good for this? Looking at HTPE or Acrylic on Amazon 1/2 inch thickness. Never done this before so don't know the tolerances (strength/heat) of these materials.

What you are talking about is HDPE, not HTPE. 1/2 inch is plenty strong, I did mine with 1/2 inch. I would use 3/8 if I was to do it again.
Here's my setup where you can see a picture of my bracket: Project - Dual battery setup

As stated above, you need a 34-PC1500. Refer to this diagram and take into account that the terminals are towards the firewall (updside down compared to the diagram from Odyssey): https://www.odysseybatteries.com/images/1500terms.gif

 

[Rack]

SnoRnR In your post question #5,) try using 1/4" Acetal sheet -Delrin from Tapplastics.com. I used this for my dual battery set up. It withstands high heat and can be drilled and taped. always order more than you need just in case.

#2) I also installed a blue sea Below deck panel # 4353 in the PS rear fender well with a #5045 compact fuse block and a #2314 mini bus. fed by 2/#8 Ancor marine cable. this was fed via the PS rocker panels. a tight fit so I had to remove the outer insulation to feed it under the "B" pillar then install split loom. This is fed from a Bussman fuse panel next to my Aux. battery.
This little sub panel is for future use. It might provide you with enough power for your fridge and accessories.
I don't have a build page but if you go into my album I have pictures of my builds.

 

[SnoRnR]

[MENTION=343163]SnoRnR[/MENTION] I would also recommend getting the 34-pc1500 vs the 34R if you are orienting the battery with the terminals facing inward like the oem battery, as the 34R would put the +terminal very close to the passenger fender wall. it it happened to move and touch there would be some fireworks.

I am actually just finishing up the wiring for my dual battery setup today using the shrockworks kit as well with a 34-pc1500

Good point thank you. Never thought of that. Makes sense seen as I can wire the terminals anyway I like. I was trying to keep it the same. But that makes way more sense.

Could you post a picture of the finished fit and the routing of your cables? Also, what are you using for tie downs? Do the supplied Shrockworks ones work with the Odyssey?

 

[SnoRnR]

You appear to have planned a pretty solid set up. I'm planning something on these lines as well but am currently leaning towards the Manager 30 and a 75 Ah lithium battery along with a 100 watt solar panel. The Aux. battery will power lights, fridge and an inverter while the starter battery (Group 34 AGM) will power the air-compressor and winch..

The manager 30 looks awesome. I wanted to keep the build as discreet and OEM looking as I could. I would have loved a bigger battery. I really think 100AH is a good size. Might put a Group 31 in the OEM location and swap the starter round in the future. Just weight seems a problem when you start going up to those sizes.

 

[SnoRnR]

Here's a couple answers:



I use an anderson connector with my ARB wiring kit. The connector size you are looking for is an SB50 and they have connector for wires as small as 12AWG. Take a look at the datasheet and pick the appropriate connector for your wire guage: https://www.mouser.ca/datasheet/2/22/ds-sb50-1652903.pdf



I would go with 2AWG if that is what is recommend for the length and amperage. Unless you predicted your build and know for sure you would never use 125A.



What you are talking about is HDPE, not HTPE. 1/2 inch is plenty strong, I did mine with 1/2 inch. I would use 3/8 if I was to do it again.
Here's my setup where you can see a picture of my bracket: Project - Dual battery setup

As stated above, you need a 34-PC1500. Refer to this diagram and take into account that the terminals are towards the firewall (updside down compared to the diagram from Odyssey): https://www.odysseybatteries.com/images/1500terms.gif

Awesome. Thank you. Yes, I meant HDPE. I will go with 2AWG. I know the Switch pro is fused at 125A but I doubt it ever draws that. I will only have lighting and basic 12v stuff connected to it. The biggest load will probably be a lighting bar or 2 x Baja SP6's on the front bumper when I get it.

 

[bring_it_on]

The manager 30 looks awesome. I wanted to keep the build as discreet and OEM looking as I could. I would have loved a bigger battery. I really think 100AH is a good size. Might put a Group 31 in the OEM location and swap the starter round in the future. Just weight seems a problem when you start going up to those sizes.

If weight and size is a concern, and you don't mind spending some more $$ then you may want to consider the relion RB75 which fits most standard aux battery plates on the 5th gen, works with your BMS and has more available juice. Some of the additional cost can be reduced by going for a smaller solar panel as you won't need as much solar replenishment as with an AGM battery that needs to be topped up above 50%. In my setup, I was initially planning to use a Group 34 battery under the hood and a 100-160 Watt solar panel up on the roof rack. The Roof rack is also going to carry a RTT so I was limited on space and had to find a solar panel that would fit. I'm now considering the RB-75 and not mounting a solar panel at all and picking up a slightly used 90 Watt Zamp portable solar panel. That frees up room on the rack for traction boards or fuel.

 

[jdm-v35]

Good point thank you. Never thought of that. Makes sense seen as I can wire the terminals anyway I like. I was trying to keep it the same. But that makes way more sense.

Could you post a picture of the finished fit and the routing of your cables? Also, what are you using for tie downs? Do the supplied Shrockworks ones work with the Odyssey?

the tie downs that come with the shrockworks kit do not work as they are too short. you will need 10" long j hooks and then need to cut them down to 9". the tie down bar piece works fine. Most of the wiring is hidden but I ran mine in front behind the grill and secured it all with tie straps.

I will say that there is another thread about the shrockworks kit and shows battery fitment and that picture is spot-on. the 34 is a super tight fit and will take some creativity in running cables etc. the 25 fits a lot better and I think would give more room for other cabling. I don't have too many accessory wires running directly off it, so it was not a concern for me.

 

[SnoRnR]

Thanks, Yes I have seen those pictures. I really need the 34 size for AH. I will come up with something. The Redarc helps as most the wiring will be 8 AWG. Just leaves a 2 AWG ground to run.

 

[SnoRnR]

If weight and size is a concern, and you don't mind spending some more $$ then you may want to consider the relion RB75 which fits most standard aux battery plates on the 5th gen, works with your BMS and has more available juice. Some of the additional cost can be reduced by going for a smaller solar panel as you won't need as much solar replenishment as with an AGM battery that needs to be topped up above 50%. In my setup, I was initially planning to use a Group 34 battery under the hood and a 100-160 Watt solar panel up on the roof rack. The Roof rack is also going to carry a RTT so I was limited on space and had to find a solar panel that would fit. I'm now considering the RB-75 and not mounting a solar panel at all and picking up a slightly used 90 Watt Zamp portable solar panel. That frees up room on the rack for traction boards or fuel.

I need to stick to AGM due to temperatures. It can get to minus 40 C where we are.

 

[jdm-v35]

Thanks, Yes I have seen those pictures. I really need the 34 size for AH. I will come up with something. The Redarc helps as most the wiring will be 8 AWG. Just leaves a 2 AWG ground to run.

Can you override the redarc and start the car from it? I never looked into it, and may do a disconnectable Renology solar setup later just to charge the battery during the day. I am using the ML-ACR and 1/0 AWG wiring but I like that I can manually override it and start the car from the secondary battery without jumpers if necessary.

 

[bring_it_on]

Yes definitely stick with AGM. There is a low-temperature variant for Lithium batteries that relion makes but I've heard it doesn't really perform as expected by someone who has used it on his 80 series in North East US winters..

 

[bring_it_on]

Can you override the redarc and start the car from it? I never looked into it, and may do a disconnectable Renology solar setup later just to charge the battery during the day. I am using the ML-ACR and 1/0 AWG wiring but I like that I can manually override it and start the car from the secondary battery without jumpers if necessary.

Yes, I believe you can run an ACR along with the Red Arc BMS.

 

[3xpert]

Heres mine, C4Fab battery tray, used 8g cable for battery connections.Same size as Brown, Red, Yellow wires as the Redarc uses. Blue Sea 40a Circuit Breakers.
ARB refrigerator wiring harness run along passenger side to rear.
Blue sea 12v receptacle for my fridge. Its January in WI. so fridge is in the house. Dometic CFX50.
AGM Battery I bought from Batteries plus, Only one I could find that has the positive not on fender side. Same as starting battery.
Can swap if necessary.

 

[SnoRnR]

Heres mine, C4Fab battery tray, used 8g cable for battery connections.Same size as Brown, Red, Yellow wires as the Redarc uses. Blue Sea 40a Circuit Breakers.
ARB refrigerator wiring harness run along passenger side to rear.
Blue sea 12v receptacle for my fridge. Its January in WI. so fridge is in the house. Dometic CFX50.
AGM Battery I bought from Batteries plus, Only one I could find that has the positive not on fender side. Same as starting battery.
Can swap if necessary.

Awesome. I might still get the battery with reversed positive terminal i.e 34-PC-R1500. If i mount it the opposite way round like yours (terminals to front) I could still use it in the starter battery location in a pinch. Gives me the redundancy I was looking for.