Help with my subwoofer selection please

R

redkaz04

Member
I've decided to add a subwoofer or two to my 4runner. At 32 years old, I'm no longer trying to blast out the car next to me, I just want a hard hitting bass to go with my pioneer 930 nav unit. I already have some nice JL speakers in the door.

My question, will a single 10" hit pretty good in the 4runner? I am currently looking at the 10" JL

JL Audio 10W3v3-4 W3v3 Series 10" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
Kicker amp

Kicker 12CX600.1 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com


Please send you opinion--will this be deep and sound good?
 
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I think your choices would sound great. I have a little 8" sub under the seat with built in amp and it sounds pretty decent.

Good luck with your install and let us know how it goes.
 
Depends on what you consider hard hitting. I have the 8" version of that sub in the JL designed ported box, the 8" Micro sub. While it is fairly impressive for it's size, it doesn't come close to hitting as hard as my 10" Alpine Type R DVC in a small sealed box.

While it is barely enough for my Honda Civic, it isn't near strong enough for the 4Runner. And I am running twice the power in the Civic.

To get volume from that sub, you need to have it in a ported box. Once you port a box, you will lose the punch that a sealed box provides but gain volume and boomyness. 2 of them in a sealed box may get you what you want, but it will be a good size box, and I really don't know if that amp is up to the task.

Again it depends on what you consider hard hitting.

As for your second question, yes, you can run your amp under the seat provided you can keep it cool in the winter. If you run your system hard, and run your heater a lot, you may have over heating issues. Make sure the amp is fan cooled or digital, and try to mount it as far from the vent as possible.
I always run my amps under the seat for security and to keep them out of the way.
 
I've been patiently waiting for and can't believe they don't make a nice pre made sub box that fits in the 2010 and up 4Runner , that cavity in the right rear where the factory subwoofer goes seems ideal for a nice enclosure by JL or somebody.
 
I have a single Alpine Type-R 10" powered by Alpine Class D 550W RMS amp.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRVM500/Alpine-MRV-M500.html

I used to have an MTX 12" powered by an MTX amp. The 12" will hit deeper and "harder" but the 10 will sound cleaner.

Ebay has the best prices for legit grey market.

Choose a sealed box for the cleanest sound, ported box for more bass that is less tight sounding.

Be sure to run proper 4 gauge power and ground wiring, the ground should only be a few feet long, so to a bolt under the rear seat or something else. When installing the ground wire be sure to sand off all the paint down to the bare metal.

About your sub choices, don't buy a single 4-ohm sub, unless you are going to buy an amp that can do both 2 ohm x 1 and 4 ohm x 1.
This one does both as mentioned that way if you have a single 4 ohm sub you can just add another sub and keep the same amp. Or you could just buy a 2 ohm sub in the first place.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRVM500/Alpine-MRV-M500.html


Something like this would be great if you don't already have a 4 channel amp:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRVV500/Alpine-MRV-V500.html

Or buy a single sub amp then add one of these down the road:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTP445U/Alpine-KTP-445U-Power-Pack.html?tp=115
 
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I have a JL Slash Series 500-1/v2 and the nice thing about it is that it puts out 500 Watts no matter what the impedance. Most amps aren't like that.

Pay close attention to your setup that you "match" the power required for your sub with the power from the amp. The impedance is important. Higher impedance = lower watt output usually. If the watts pushed to the sub at a given impedance is too low, music will sound crappy. On the other hand if the wattage it too high, it will blow your sub. All amps are not created equally.

I also have a competition ported box for my JL 12W6V2-D4. It hits way harder than I need. The JL slash amps are very expensive, for mine new it was $700 but very well built and I won't go back to the likes of Alpine, MTX, Pioneer, Infinity, etc. all are good, but the JL blows them out of the water on clarity and power.
 
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Sound systems are definitely a thing where you get what you pay for. With that said, unless you are going competition there's no need to spend a $1000+ for a sub and amp.
 
BrianSD_42 said:
I have a single Alpine Type-R 10" powered by Alpine Class D 550W RMS amp.
Alpine MRV-M500 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com

I used to have an MTX 12" powered by an MTX amp. The 12" will hit deeper and "harder" but the 10 will sound cleaner.

Ebay has the best prices for legit grey market.

Choose a sealed box for the cleanest sound, ported box for more bass that is less tight sounding.

Be sure to run proper 4 gauge power and ground wiring, the ground should only be a few feet long, so to a bolt under the rear seat or something else. When installing the ground wire be sure to sand off all the paint down to the bare metal.

About your sub choices, don't buy a single 4-ohm sub, unless you are going to buy an amp that can do both 2 ohm x 1 and 4 ohm x 1.
This one does both as mentioned that way if you have a single 4 ohm sub you can just add another sub and keep the same amp. Or you could just buy a 2 ohm sub in the first place.
Alpine MRV-M500 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com


Something like this would be great if you don't already have a 4 channel amp:
Alpine MRV-V500 5-channel car amplifier ? 40 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 250 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com

Or buy a single sub amp then add one of these down the road:
Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack Compact upgrade for any car radio ? 45 watts RMS X 4 at Crutchfield.com
Click to expand...
Hey, thanks for the info--are you happy with your 10"? Good solid bass? What's the rms power on it?

I really like the simplicity of that alpine amp you linked too....that may be the ticket. I meant to post the link to the JL 10" at 2ohms. The post to a 4ohm was a mistake. I appreciate the help!
 
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My type R 10" can handle 500W RMS well within spec and that is what it's getting. Well sort of. Since I almost never blast it I doubt the sub actually ever draws the full 500W consistently.

It isn't meant to shake the neighborhood or anything but sounds far better than any factory subwoofer you'll ever hear. It should LoL.
 
BrianSD_42 said:
My type R 10" can handle 500W RMS well within spec and that is what it's getting. Well sort of. Since I almost never blast it I doubt the sub actually ever draws the full 500W consistently.

It isn't meant to shake the neighborhood or anything but sounds far better than any factory subwoofer you'll ever hear. It should LoL.
Click to expand...


Right now I'm weighing the cost of the JL 10" Wv3v3 against the Alpine SWS-104D. The price is more than double for the JL and the alpine should handle just as much power. Opinions?

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_33169_Alpine_SWS-10D2.aspx
 
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redkaz04 said:
I've decided to add a subwoofer or two to my 4runner. At 32 years old, I'm no longer trying to blast out the car next to me, I just want a hard hitting bass to go with my pioneer 930 nav unit. I already have some nice JL speakers in the door.

My question, will a single 10" hit pretty good in the 4runner? I am currently looking at the 10" JL

JL Audio 10W3v3-4 W3v3 Series 10" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
Kicker amp

Kicker 12CX600.1 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com


Please send you opinion--will this be deep and sound good?
Click to expand...



I would invest a little more than the JL W3 and go with a JL W7. Much cleaner and deeper bass. A 10" W7 will hit clean and hard. You won't be disappointed
 
I've always heard good things about JL.

I'm sure you'll be happy either way. Just be sure to power match the right sub for the right amp. A 500W RMS sub from either brand will definitely rock.
 
the 10w3 in a ported box will be 3db louder than a sealed box. a rockford fosgate p2 line is comparable to the jl w3. im thinking the 2 8w3 in the microsub enclosure should be better, still give you alot of cargo space left.
 
well comparing the 8w3 in microsub box, is 500. also the 10w6 in ho box is 500. the w6 is a better sub.
if you are stuck on the 10w3, the 12w3 in ho box is only 420 vs 380 for a 10inch. id go with a 12 inch model. but the w6 is still better.
 
redkaz04 said:
I've decided to add a subwoofer or two to my 4runner. At 32 years old, I'm no longer trying to blast out the car next to me, I just want a hard hitting bass to go with my pioneer 930 nav unit. I already have some nice JL speakers in the door.

My question, will a single 10" hit pretty good in the 4runner? I am currently looking at the 10" JL

JL Audio 10W3v3-4 W3v3 Series 10" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
Kicker amp

Kicker 12CX600.1 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com


Please send you opinion--will this be deep and sound good?
Click to expand...

I am very happy with the amount of bass my shallow mount JL 10 puts out.10TW3-D4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - TW3 - JL Audio Like you I wasn't looking for overkill but nice all around sound. I find this sub nicely compliments The rest of my setup below and sounds good no matter what I listen to.

Have you done any sound deadening yet? That makes a huge difference for overall quality.

Alpine receiver CDE-HD149BT
-JL Audio XD700/5 amplifier
-Hertz speakers ESK 6.5 w crossover (front) / ECX 5.25 (rear)
-JL Audio 10TW3-D4 Subwoofer (custom install in right rear cargo wall)
-HushMat Ultra doors/floor/roof

Hope this helps.
 
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