Help with taking rear drum off!

[dominopizza]

I'm out of options now. I've tried all the method that

I can try and drum is still stuck shut.

Here are the list of methods that I've tried (for all methods I've used plenty of penetrating oil) :

1. Hammering drum in the middle gently to pull it out

2. using torch to heat up the drum

3. Using universal wheel hub puller to take it out (when I was hammering this i realized that it only pulling the wheel bearing hub's stud not actual drum so this wouldn;t work i'm pretty sure, i've used cheater bar to turn it)
(Heavy Duty Universal Wheel Hub Puller Rear Brake Drum Remover Removal Tool 6366 | eBay)

4. using 2 bolt holes that are on the drum but it won't work . both threads been stripped and bolt won't go in anymore.



I'm totally out of options guys. Please help!

 

[nevada]

I'm out of options now. I've tried all the method that

I can try and drum is still stuck shut.

Here are the list of methods that I've tried (for all methods I've used plenty of penetrating oil) :

1. Hammering drum in the middle gently to pull it out

2. using torch to heat up the drum

3. Using universal wheel hub puller to take it out (when I was hammering this i realized that it only pulling the wheel bearing hub's stud not actual drum so this wouldn;t work i'm pretty sure, i've used cheater bar to turn it)
(Heavy Duty Universal Wheel Hub Puller Rear Brake Drum Remover Removal Tool 6366 | eBay)

4. using 2 bolt holes that are on the drum but it won't work . both threads been stripped and bolt won't go in anymore.



I'm totally out of options guys. Please help!

just so im clear, the drum is seized onto the axle, yes?
its not a matter of the park brake being stuck on, and holding the shoes against the drum?

if its just seized to the axle, keep using penetrating oil, and the hammer. it will eventually pop free.

you want to hit it in between each stud, careful to NOT hit he studs. but, even if you do, its not the end of the world, they are fairly easily replaced.

spray it, then let is sit. beat on it for a while, then spray it again and let it sit.

 

[4racer]

Have used the access hole in the back of the hub to loosen the shoes?

 

[cbr900boy]

just so im clear, the drum is seized onto the axle, yes?
its not a matter of the park brake being stuck on, and holding the shoes against the drum?

if its just seized to the axle, keep using penetrating oil, and the hammer. it will eventually pop free.

you want to hit it in between each stud, careful to NOT hit he studs. but, even if you do, its not the end of the world, they are fairly easily replaced.

spray it, then let is sit. beat on it for a while, then spray it again and let it sit.

I agree, just confirm the ebrake isn't on cause the drum will not budge if it is. Start with the simple stuff first.

 

[seank]

+1 make sure the parking brake is off.

Only other advice I have is... Do not be gentle. Gentle doesn't work on these big old trucks. To get mine off I wailed on them around the edges with a three pound dead blow hammer and they came right off.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[mtbtim]

Have used the access hole in the back of the hub to loosen the shoes?

Like [MENTION=122044]4racer[/MENTION] mentioned, you can release the shoes by turning the self adjuster wheel. But, it's not as simple as you think. You first need to remove the rubber grommet off the backing plate to access the adjuster. Then, you need to use one small screwdriver or special brake tool to push the adjuster lever away from the adjuster wheel so you can turn the wheel downward as you are looking at it from the back. You can tighten the adjuster wheel making the brakes tighter fairly easy by just turning the wheel up with a screwdriver or other tool but if you want to loosen them, you have to push the adjuster lever away from the wheel so you can turn it.

If you put a skinny flat edge screwdriver in there in a slight downward direction under the adjuster wheel, and with a little patience and trial and error finding the right spot, you'll feel when you're on the adjuster lever because you'll feel spring resistance when you push against it. Once you got the right spot, use another screwdriver or actual brake adjuster tool to turn the adjuster wheel downward until the shoes are backed off enough for you to pull the drums off. Whacking the drum with a rubber mallet will help brake it free once the brake shoes are backed off enough.

I just did this on [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] truck yesterday. It takes some patience but you'll get it.

 

[TheDurk]

Just to be clear, the shoes are not the problem if the hub turns freely. If it won't turn, then no amount of banging or pulling will get it off.

Assuming it turns, apply PB Blaster to the seam between hub and drum. Neat with torch. More PB. Let it cool. Rinse and repeat a few times. If that doesn't do it, add some hammer blows to try to get it to move around the outside of the drum.

You can always tap those pull holes to a larger size bolt, but I'd try hard to get it move a little bit first.

 

[pauldub]

Just beat it with a bigger hammer.

 

[infamousRNR]

Try Adjusting the brake shoes

I'm out of options now. I've tried all the method that

I can try and drum is still stuck shut.

Here are the list of methods that I've tried (for all methods I've used plenty of penetrating oil) :

1. Hammering drum in the middle gently to pull it out
2. using torch to heat up the drum
3. Using universal wheel hub puller to take it out (when I was hammering this i realized that it only pulling the wheel bearing hub's stud not actual drum so this wouldn;t work i'm pretty sure, i've used cheater bar to turn it)
4. using 2 bolt holes that are on the drum but it won't work . both threads been stripped and bolt won't go in anymore.

I'm totally out of options guys. Please help!

T4R to the rescue!
because [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] and I were just dealing with this yesterday, I put together a little video of an option you haven't tried yet: Adjusting the shoes from the back.


.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vPiJHIMWvIA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[I_bRAD]

Just to be clear, the shoes are not the problem if the hub turns freely. If it won't turn, then no amount of banging or pulling will get it off.

Assuming it turns, apply PB Blaster to the seam between hub and drum. Neat with torch. More PB. Let it cool. Rinse and repeat a few times. If that doesn't do it, add some hammer blows to try to get it to move around the outside of the drum.

You can always tap those pull holes to a larger size bolt, but I'd try hard to get it move a little bit first.

When I did mine the shoes weren't touching the drum, but there was enough of a lip on the drum to prevent it from coming off easy. I believe those holes tap out nicely to 3/8-16 IIRC.

 

[nevada]

you wont be able to tap out the holes to a larger size until the drum is removed.
as right now, the drum is flush to the axle. no way to tap it...

 

[MyHigh]

You. Isn't try taking some sand paper and sanding the center hub, might not be that it's seized on but rather some build up of rust, dirt, and stuff might be holding the drum from sliding off

 

[4racer]

When I did mine the shoes weren't touching the drum, but there was enough of a lip on the drum to prevent it from coming off easy. I believe those holes tap out nicely to 3/8-16 IIRC.

Agreed. The drum can still spin freely if there is enough of a groove in the drum. Just because it spins, doesnt mean it still isnt binding on the shoes. With as much effort as it is taking you, it wouldnt surprise me.

 

[I_bRAD]

you wont be able to tap out the holes to a larger size until the drum is removed.
as right now, the drum is flush to the axle. no way to tap it...

If its stuck on the hub, then yes. But if it's stuck on the pads you can make enough space to tap it.

 

[homers eye]

I've removed a lot of drums, I mean paid and not, and have never met one that would not respond to driving a strong pry bar (or big screwdriver if necessary) between the drum and backing plate on one side, pulling the pry hard, and with that tension on one side of the drum give a mighty whack with at least a 3 lb. hammer onto the drum at the other side.

It might take a repetition, maybe even three, but that WILL remove the brake drum,

It won't hurt the drum; won't make it out of round. It might tweak the backing plate if it's a wimpy type but usually doesn't. If it does just tweak the plate back while the drum is off.

BTW, don't say "I hammered gently" anymore. You HAMMERED gently??

This is mechanic's work, there's no room for sissies.

 

[hwnfisherman]

There are threaded holes where you bolt a slide hammer attachment to the drum. Then slide hammer that puppy off.

 

[Antman]

Just hit the hell out of it with a big sledgehammer. If you damage it (unlikely) just buy a new drum. They are cheap.

I mean it, beat that F'er. You should have seen me smack the drums off my cousin's Jeep. His eyes were the size of sliver dollars after he watched me wailing on it. Didn't hurt a thing either.

 

[mtbtim]

Just to be clear, the shoes are not the problem if the hub turns freely. If it won't turn, then no amount of banging or pulling will get it off.

Assuming it turns, apply PB Blaster to the seam between hub and drum. Neat with torch. More PB. Let it cool. Rinse and repeat a few times. If that doesn't do it, add some hammer blows to try to get it to move around the outside of the drum.

You can always tap those pull holes to a larger size bolt, but I'd try hard to get it move a little bit first.

Well, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] hub turned freely but we couldn't get them to come off. We pounded on them with a plastic mallet and were able to shimmy them a little but no where close to coming off. It wasn't until we backed off the adjuster on each side that we were able to pull the drums off.

I would like to try that bolt trick though. Probably easier than screwing around with the adjusters.

 

[nevada]

Well, @infamousRNR hub turned freely but we couldn't get them to come off. We pounded on them with a plastic mallet and were able to shimmy them a little but no where close to coming off. It wasn't until we backed off the adjuster on each side that we were able to pull the drums off.

I would like to try that bolt trick though. Probably easier than screwing around with the adjusters.

if there is a lip on the drum that the shoes are catching on, removing it with the bolts is very likely to ruin the hardware. no big deal if the plan is to rebuild/replace everything. but, something to be aware of, and have the new hardware handy...

 

[mtbtim]

if there is as lip on the drum that the shoes are catching on, removing it with the bolts is very likely to ruin the hardware. no big deal if the plan is to rebuild/replace everything. but, something to be aware of, and have the new hardware handy...

Good point, I'll probably just stick with the technique I used because I know it works and does no damage. The hardest part of doing it my way was finding the right angle with the screwdriver to make contact with the adjusting plate. Once you know the general area where it's located it's not hard to make contact with it so you can push it away and be able to turn the adjuster wheel and loosen the shoes.

And the best part of this experience was I found a reason to buy more tools. Bought a drum brake kit from OTC. Now I just have to wait until my brakes, or Sean's brakes wear out so I can try them out and learn how to replace drum brake shoes.