Help with taking rear drum off!

[dominopizza]

just so im clear, the drum is seized onto the axle, yes?
its not a matter of the park brake being stuck on, and holding the shoes against the drum?

if its just seized to the axle, keep using penetrating oil, and the hammer. it will eventually pop free.

you want to hit it in between each stud, careful to NOT hit he studs. but, even if you do, its not the end of the world, they are fairly easily replaced.

spray it, then let is sit. beat on it for a while, then spray it again and let it sit.

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nothing to do with parking brake. and yes, I've tried penetrating oil for multiple times throughout 3 day period and it doesn't work. hamming around stud won't work either.

 

[dominopizza]

Have used the access hole in the back of the hub to loosen the shoes?

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No idea where the access hole is. I've looked everywhere for it and I couldn't find it.

 

[dominopizza]

T4R to the rescue!
because [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] and I were just dealing with this yesterday, I put together a little video of an option you haven't tried yet: Adjusting the shoes from the back.


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<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vPiJHIMWvIA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

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thanks for the video! I will try this method this weekend.

 

[dominopizza]

I've removed a lot of drums, I mean paid and not, and have never met one that would not respond to driving a strong pry bar (or big screwdriver if necessary) between the drum and backing plate on one side, pulling the pry hard, and with that tension on one side of the drum give a mighty whack with at least a 3 lb. hammer onto the drum at the other side.

It might take a repetition, maybe even three, but that WILL remove the brake drum,

It won't hurt the drum; won't make it out of round. It might tweak the backing plate if it's a wimpy type but usually doesn't. If it does just tweak the plate back while the drum is off.

BTW, don't say "I hammered gently" anymore. You HAMMERED gently??

This is mechanic's work, there's no room for sissies.

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i've tried it and it doesn't come off. backing plate is too soft for pry bar. I've bent it too many times. and who hammers gently? I beat the crap out of that drum with big old sledge hammer which wouldn't even budge. I'm gonna try to infamousRNR's method of adjuster wheel.

 

[dominopizza]

Well, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] hub turned freely but we couldn't get them to come off. We pounded on them with a plastic mallet and were able to shimmy them a little but no where close to coming off. It wasn't until we backed off the adjuster on each side that we were able to pull the drums off.

I would like to try that bolt trick though. Probably easier than screwing around with the adjusters.

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did you read my post? I've said bolt holes been stripped so I can't use bolt trick anymore.

 

[mtbtim]

Hey Pizza Guy, did you try out the method [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I suggested to get your rear drums off? Just wondering if you tried it and were successful.

 

[LittleCaesar]

You need some oxy/ace and heat it around the studs. If you don't have access to such try MAP gas which will take longer. Then hammer with at least a 40oz hammer.

I have used a 13 ton puller before. When the drum broke free it sounded like a canon.

The worst was using a grinder to cut the drum open to get it off. Not fun. Ate four discs and a Dewalt grinder so I bought a Metabo. The latter is going five years strong now.

 

[Tyota89]

I just had this issue when rebuilding the rearend.. I tried the two holes, pry bar, torch and hammer but ended up taking the axle out and dropping the studs on some 2x6 a couple times; came off in 3 tries.

 

[TheDurk]

I've never really only had this problem once and that was way back around 1980. I learned from that and since then, on any car under my care I pull drums early on and slather the mating surface on the hub with anti-seize and the same thing with the wheels (but not the studs). Then once I retract the shoes, they come right off--maybe a bang from a rubber mallet to start.

 

[mtbtim]

I was doing some research on brakes in my FSM and I came across this:



I reckon the FSM agrees with the method I used as well. I'm still fairly new to Toyota 4runner Forum Life but it really is a bummer when a dude starts a thread and then disappears not letting anyone reading how he finally found a solution to his problem so others researching a similar problem can benefit.

Maybe he'll read this and let us all know.

 

[Roc Doc]

BTW, don't say "I hammered gently" anymore. You HAMMERED gently??

This is mechanic's work, there's no room for sissies.

When I was in HS autoshop I had to replace a wheel bearing from a rear axle shaft, and the English manual I had recommended "With a suitable hammer and cold chisel, nick the bearing retainer deeply, and then remove the retainer."

My teacher laughed at the polite book and told me to get the biggest hammer I could swing and hit it for all I was worth.