Help!

[SilentYoda3]

Ok some I have an issue with my truck obviously. I think it might be an EGR valve but I figure i'd post some of the 'symptoms' on here and see if someone else has had my issues or knows what it may be. So here they are:

1. Rough idle, like 200-300 change (which it's never done before a few weeks ago)

2. Smells like to much gas, running to rich.

3. Pre-ignition sound randomly before 3000rpms and harsh afterwards. (the tin-y sound)

4. Harmonic hum (Almost like a bad universal joint or something on an old pick-up sort of hum)

5. Gutless, before it had decent power now it has issues going up hills (partly because i can't get near the torque range but it was performing prior to today)

6. It is the original EGR valve

7. Check engine light came on. (which to me means that it's a sensor somewhere that's bad and the computer can't figure it out which to me rules out timing issues.)

8. What also rules out timing issues (on the distributor at least) Also my dad is a mechanic and for the most part I am too so we know whats going on that side of things.

9. I can get pictures or video upon request, this is my DD and it needs to run right...

10. Thanks for all your help guys!

Matt

 

[KidVermicious]

If you've got a check engine light, start with pulling the codes.

 

[4runnertank]

If you've got a check engine light, start with pulling the codes.

I second that^. Get some codes and see what your working with.

 

[Nitewulf]

X3...^^^ If the light is on, it is telling you where the problem is. If you suspect the egr, diconnect and cap the lines temporarily, test drive it and see if problem is negated.

 

[Tanner]

Yep, like other's said above; if you suspect an EGR issue, disconnect it.

My EGR is/was acting up so I disconnected it and plugged it with a....golf tee haha. Been driving with it plugged for a couple months now; no more problems now. I have no time to remove it/clean it and/or no money to buy a new one.

Here's a picture (22RE):

 

[SilentYoda3]

so my dad has a computer, but not sure if he has the right plug for it. Going to a shop cost a ungodly amount just to hook their computer up to it. Is there another way? I'm going to try the golf tee right now, have a new EGR valve coming from my parts guy for $220 just incase to have ready if that's the problem. Will by-passing the EGR do anything bad? Lower gas mileage obviously since it's causing mine issues right now im sure. Thanks for you helps guys!

 

[Tanner]

You could try cleaning the EGR valve before you replace it. I've been told they get clogged up with carbon and using some carb cleaner and compressed air can make them work properly again. Only issue with bypassing it that I can think of is it'll increase your emissions. So if you have an aircare or smog program in your city then it'll effect the outcome.

 

[SilentYoda3]

Dtc:25-continuously lean mixture
Dtc:42-vss circuit (code only came on when test ran without truck running)
Thanks to shucks I ran the comp and had these two errors. Looked in fsm but couldn't find where codes were. Thanks guys!!

 

[RiFF RaFF]

Dtc:25-continuously lean mixture
Dtc:42-vss circuit (code only came on when test ran without truck running)
Thanks to shucks I ran the comp and had these two errors. Looked in fsm but couldn't find where codes were. Thanks guys!!

This link should help -- Malfunction Codes Reference

CODE 42

Trouble Code 42 indicates that there may be a malfunction in the Electronic Spark Timing (EST) system.

During cranking, the timing is controlled by the ignition module while the ECM monitors the engine speed. When the engine speed exceeds 400 RPM, the ECM sends a BYPASS signal to the ignition module which switches the timing to ECM control. The ECM calculates what the timing should be then "tells" the ignition module via the EST circuit.

An open or ground in the EST circuit will stall the engine and set a Code 42. The engine can be re-started but it will run on ignition module timing.

The conditions for setting this code are:

System in BYPASS mode but the ignition module is still controlling timing

- or -
Engine speed > 600 RPM with no EST pulses (ECM controlled timing) going to the ignition module for 200 msec.



Typical causes for this code include:

1) BYPASS line is open or grounded
2) EST line is open or grounded
3) PROM or CALPACK not seated properly in the ECM
4) Poor connections between ignition module and ECM
5) Poor routing of EST harness and/or poor quality ignition wires (EMI induced electrical noise)
6) Faulty or incorrect ignition module
7) Faulty ECM

Have you tried to reset the ECM yet?

 

[SilentYoda3]

This link should help -- Malfunction Codes Reference

CODE 42

Trouble Code 42 indicates that there may be a malfunction in the Electronic Spark Timing (EST) system.

During cranking, the timing is controlled by the ignition module while the ECM monitors the engine speed. When the engine speed exceeds 400 RPM, the ECM sends a BYPASS signal to the ignition module which switches the timing to ECM control. The ECM calculates what the timing should be then "tells" the ignition module via the EST circuit.

An open or ground in the EST circuit will stall the engine and set a Code 42. The engine can be re-started but it will run on ignition module timing.

The conditions for setting this code are:

System in BYPASS mode but the ignition module is still controlling timing

- or -
Engine speed > 600 RPM with no EST pulses (ECM controlled timing) going to the ignition module for 200 msec.



Typical causes for this code include:

1) BYPASS line is open or grounded
2) EST line is open or grounded
3) PROM or CALPACK not seated properly in the ECM
4) Poor connections between ignition module and ECM
5) Poor routing of EST harness and/or poor quality ignition wires (EMI induced electrical noise)
6) Faulty or incorrect ignition module
7) Faulty ECM

Have you tried to reset the ECM yet?

I haven't yet, how do i? I don't think it's the issue. Ran the test several times and the code 25 came up every time, not to mention that there is a great amount of built up sout on the tailpipe. It's smelling like hella gas. I figure this is more the issue. The code 25 comes from the O2 sensor on the tailpipe telling the engine it's too lean so to add fuel. Then when the system does to a regularly healthy run it then essentially floods the engine? It would make sense why it wants to die at low speeds because it's flooding until higher RPM's where it runs better because it's burning the fuel 'better' so-to-speak. Please correct me if i'm wrong. Thanks for your help as always!

 

[RiFF RaFF]

I haven't yet, how do i? I don't think it's the issue. Ran the test several times and the code 25 came up every time, not to mention that there is a great amount of built up sout on the tailpipe. It's smelling like hella gas. I figure this is more the issue. The code 25 comes from the O2 sensor on the tailpipe telling the engine it's too lean so to add fuel. Then when the system does to a regularly healthy run it then essentially floods the engine? It would make sense why it wants to die at low speeds because it's flooding until higher RPM's where it runs better because it's burning the fuel 'better' so-to-speak. Please correct me if i'm wrong. Thanks for your help as always!

You should be able to reset your ECU by disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes.

However - doing more checking you may have pinched a wire --

Code 42: Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal Circuit
No speed signal for several seconds while vehicle is operated under heavy load

--Open or short in vehicle speed sensor circuit wiring

--Speed sensor
--Combination meter
--ECU


____________

Try resetting the ECU first by disconnecting the battery, and take a 30 minute break. Reconnect and see if the check engine light comes back on.

If it does - Double, and triple check all the wires, and vacuum hoses.

Also - inspect air cleaner intake hose for cracks/splits. This part can cause you all kinds of trouble. Mine split while off roading, causing my engine to completely stop. Here's a picture of the part.

Could also be a bad O2 sensor. But one thing at a time.

 

[SilentYoda3]

K i will try to disconnect the battery first. Simply because it's the easiest to do lol! Also i will check the intake hose as well as the air cleaner. Though it's sort of a pain to take off haha! Thanks Riff Raff!

 

[SilentYoda3]

well the 'simple' fix did seem to help just a tad, (wait for it) BUT still not right. The harmonic hum still persist (like a bad u-joint sort of hum, it's odd, when trying to accelerate) Also power seems to elude me, prior to yesterday my 3.0L had a little bit of kick, most of that is gone now. So therefore the battery didn't do it. So next issue? Perhaps the O2 sensor? Drove it for a little while but not far enough to pop the engine light on again though. Options?

 

[SilentYoda3]

Well i replaced the O2 sensor on it hoping it was the cause of the issue, though it may have made it better it's still not good. Still has a shiver (like when you're cold so your body shivers a little bit) between 1000-2000 rpm's. Also still a harmonic hum inside the cabin when trying to accelerate at lower rpm's. (if you let off the gas then there's no hum.) Please help I'm racking my brain on this one. Also checked all my vaccum hoses even though i replaced almost all of them when i did my headgasket as well as the intake hoses.

EDIT: note i did drive it for prob 20 miles up to the bank, check engine light did not come on.

 

[SilentYoda3]

Bumps anymore ideas???

 

[RiFF RaFF]

Well i replaced the O2 sensor on it hoping it was the cause of the issue, though it may have made it better it's still not good. Still has a shiver (like when you're cold so your body shivers a little bit) between 1000-2000 rpm's. Also still a harmonic hum inside the cabin when trying to accelerate at lower rpm's. (if you let off the gas then there's no hum.) Please help I'm racking my brain on this one. Also checked all my vaccum hoses even though i replaced almost all of them when i did my headgasket as well as the intake hoses.

EDIT: note i did drive it for prob 20 miles up to the bank, check engine light did not come on.

Good on the check engine light.

The harmonic hum - is it when you are moving, at a stand still, or both?

If only when rolling - might not be the engine. Could be the drive train - such as your drive shaft is unbalanced, or a U-Joint going bad. Long shot - but- it could also be a motor mount (that's just a guess).

I wish I could help you more SY3 - I know how aggrevating something like that can be. Maybe one of the more knowing Toyota mechs here can step up with some ideas.

:driving:

 

[SilentYoda3]

Thanks bud! Well I found the culprit. :ybrick: Two of my plug wires were laying on the egr tube and were grounding. Thus leaving my v6 a v4. But that's now fixed. However I still have a rough idle. It will suddenly drop 200-400 rpms but then jumps back to 'normal' again almost immediately. Check engine light came back on, just haven't had a chance to check it out yet.

 

[SilentYoda3]

Well i ran seafoam through the throttle body, in the oil, and in the gas tank. Now here's my issue, still having a sudden drop in rpms 200-300 then it recovers in a split second. When i changed the timing a little bit it went away for a minute or so and then the 'stutter' as i call it, came back. Now i've just been trying to figure out what it is. Any ideas? Anything i should check? Maybe a knock sensor or crank sensor going bad? (no code thrown though) or maybe the MAF? Thanks for your help guys!

 

[SilentYoda3]

Bump