Here are the malfunction codes

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bonedoctor

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Recently had the "check engine" and those other lights come on. Here's the previous thread. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23659

Despite the very useful information from "4RunnaB" (what a dick!), still got a dash full of lights.

I did check the gas cap and got that weird groaning noise. It wasn't a whoosing, hissing sound that you'll get on a warm day, but a strange low groaning. Hadn't even noticed, but the gas cap even says something about "tighten until click" or you may get the check engine light.

Then, oddly, was trying to fill the tank and you could hear the gas coming back up the filler neck. It would trip the handle off after about 3 sec on trying to fill the tank. Even with just little squirts, the handle would trip after just a few seconds.

So I went to AutoZone today and they hooked up the code reader. They were, "P043E and P043F", both something about EVAP and three other codes, P2401, P2402, and P2419. The guy at AutoZone didn't have any info on the last three since he said they were "dealer codes" and no information appeared on the scanner to say what they were for, just the codes. While we were standing there, I removed the gas cap and there was a hissing sound coming from the filler neck that continued for about a minute. I've heard that the system is pressurized and that's why a loose gas cap will trigger a MIL.

Any ideas?
 
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Arrrrggggh! So I decide I've got nothing to lose by disconnecting the battery to see if that will clear the dash MILs. Pop the + cable off, wait a bit, put it back on, start the vehicle......no MILs.

Don't know if that fixed the problem by clearing the codes, but sure does seem like a lot of trouble codes for what apparently was a loose gas cap (including two cryptic "dealer codes"). You'd think something major was going on. I was about ready to call the stealer and take it in. Wonder how much they would have charged me to do what I did?

Was reading on another forum about how even experienced techs will get fooled by the combo of "check engine" and "VSC lights", trying to diagnose something wrong that connects the two. Apparently the VSC stuff is some sort of fail safe mode, so if you get a check engine light, the VSC goes to fail safe and those lights illuminate, too.

Well, anyway the lights are off for now.
 
I've had that belching thing happen before, but it was a hot day and the tank was pretty empty. I guess the expanding gasses escaped when I opened the cap.

Hopefully the trouble lights will stay off. If there is still a problem, they should come back on. Good luck!
 
sharp4runr said:
I've had that belching thing happen before, but it was a hot day and the tank was pretty empty. I guess the expanding gasses escaped when I opened the cap.

Hopefully the trouble lights will stay off. If there is still a problem, they should come back on. Good luck!

It was really weird, like nothing I'd heard before. Not a hissing like something escaping, but almost like it was sucking in. Sounded like a really deep belch after a heavy meal (like Thanksgiving)!

I'm just happy those damned lights are off. Those, combined with the damned light from the tire pressure on the spare, made it look like Christmas on the dashboard. Maybe they'll stay off only until the day after Thanksgiving (start of Christmas season). :p
 
The evaporative emissions system (for fuel vapors in the tank) periodically checks to see if the tank will hold a certain level of vapor pressure. If it cannot hold pressure, then the system assumes there's a vapor leak, attempts to figure out the cause, and provides a DTC code.

All of the codes you provided indicate a potential problem with the EVAP system itself. Codes P034E and P034F are "EVAP Reference Orifice Clogged" and "Orifice High Flow". Codes P2401 are P2402 are high/low failures of the EVAP system leak detection pump. P2419 is a failure of the EVAP switching valve control circuit. The service manual says that the resolution for all 5 codes is to replace the leak detection pump.

Good news... there is a TSB for this problem. #EG040-06 was issued on June 6, 2006 for 05-06 4Runners for exactly this issue - you get all 5 codes, and the pump is in fact the problem. The pump is inside the charcoal canister, so the fix is to replace the entire charcoal canister.

EVAP is not considered a "major" emissions component, so the warranty is still only 3/36 for this issue.

The TSB is here:
http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Toyota/1150959600000_1152255600000_EG040-06/index.html

I'd call the dealer right away, although they may want proof that you got the codes. They may want you to wait until the CEL comes back on before coming in.
 
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toto said:
The evaporative emissions system (for fuel vapors in the tank) periodically checks to see if the tank will hold a certain level of vapor pressure. If it cannot hold pressure, then the system assumes there's a vapor leak, attempts to figure out the cause, and provides a DTC code.

All of the codes you provided indicate a potential problem with the EVAP system itself. Codes P034E and P034F are "EVAP Reference Orifice Clogged" and "Orifice High Flow". Codes P2401 are P2402 are high/low failures of the EVAP system leak detection pump. P2419 is a failure of the EVAP switching valve control circuit. The service manual says that the resolution for all 5 codes is to replace the leak detection pump.

Good news... there is a TSB for this problem. #EG040-06 was issued on June 6, 2006 for 05-06 4Runners for exactly this issue - you get all 5 codes, and the pump is in fact the problem. The pump is inside the charcoal canister, so the fix is to replace the entire charcoal canister.

EVAP is not considered a "major" emissions component, so the warranty is still only 3/36 for this issue.

The TSB is here:
http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Toyota/1150959600000_1152255600000_EG040-06/index.html

I'd call the dealer right away, although they may want proof that you got the codes. They may want you to wait until the CEL comes back on before coming in.

Damn, that's some good information. Thanks! I wonder if that would explain the weird noise that came from the filler neck? It was also strange that the cap was loose, although the vehicle had been up on a car carrier for a 1000 mile trip from CO to MO. Guess it could have come loose then.

It hasn't had a full tank of gas for over a month now, just a little to get it up on the carrier (no sense in dragging around a full tank of gas). Wouldn't the MILs come on again if there was a problem more than a loose cap? Would that also explain why the handle on the gas pump filler kept kicking off after about 2-3 seconds accompanied by the sound of fuel coming back up the filler neck (that sound you get when the tank is almost full, just before the handle kicks off when the tank is full)? It was so aggravating that I only put in a few gallons.
 
The way I read this problem, the MIL should come back on at some point. I don't think ths goofy pump problem will go away.

It's possible there could be a connection between this problem and the problem you've got getting it to fill up with gas. [Edit: removed inaccurate description of why. My bad.]
 
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Gasoline is formulated with higher vapor pressure (called RVP) during the colder months and for various regions. If one experiences an unusually warm day during the winter then hot fuel handling problems can occur such as during refill.

The description of how a pump nozzle works is incorrect. The pump handle will shut off when liquid gas touches a small hole about 1/2" from the end of the nozzle. Next time you fill flip the nozzle over and you'll see it.

Also air (vapor) does not come out of the tank during refill - not anymore with ORVR mandated. Refill vapors are driven into the charcoal canister where these are adsorbed.

Also most evap leak checks pull a small vacuum in the tank and check for vacuum decay.

I don't know if Toyota runs with any tank gage pressure or not. Most ORVR systems don't but in the past if the tank held some pressure and you had a
'hot fuel condition' then removing the cap and lowering the pressure could cause the fuel to begin to boil -- this might the sound you're hearing. I remember stalling a car at idle by removing the cap under these conditions - the fuel begins to boil and the pump cavitates trying to pump vapor.
 
toto said:
The way I read this problem, the MIL should come back on at some point. I don't think ths goofy pump problem will go away.

It's possible there could be a connection between this problem and the problem you've got getting it to fill up with gas. [Edit: removed inaccurate description of why. My bad.]

Yep, they came back on. When you try to fill the tank at the station, the handle will click off after just a few seconds of fuel. It takes about 5 minutes to get just a few gallons in. Thankfully, I'm driving it very little currently. Guess it's gonna have to go in for that TSB.
 
Evap

Hey guys new here....
I have a 2006 Toyota 4runner, SR5, V6 about 127K on it.
Last year lights came on (Check Engine, Trac on/ off) You know the ones that look like Christmas lights came on.....
Anyways, this year popped back on, took to shop they smoked it, replaced the gas cap, said maybe the filler tank neck. Few days later, lights back on. We replaced the Filler neck, reset it, and 2 days later comes back on. Need help trying to find out what to do w/ my next steps... Hoses? Read about canister HOLY HECK is that expensive. Any suggestions would be great! Thank you.

:faint:
 
You mentioned Trac on/ off and I thought of the brake light switch right away, though if you have the check engine light too you got to find out what codes are set. Get an OBD2 code reader (fairly inexpensive for a entry level one), or go to an Auto Parts store that does that and have them read it for you.
 
Just fyi

I have an 06 and get the evap problem every time it gets colder than 40 or hotter than 110 outside. Oh the next time your tank keeps kicking off the pump pull the pump handle and rock the truck then let it sit for a second, then put the pump back in and see if it pumps.
 

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