Hesitation with no top-end power.

[clunker]

Good News!

Not only did I complete the valve job today, but I also discovered the source of hesitation (completely unrelated). I had a bad PCV valve on the passenger side valve cover. It's not very often that you need to pull the plenum, so I checked everything out while I was in there. In addition, the valve cover gaskets were shot, the plenum gasket was split, all of the plastic housing and split loom for wiring was so brittle that it crumbled in my hand, and a few of the vacuum lines had minor leaks. All fixed.

Now, all exhaust valves are at .010 to .011 clearance, and the 4Runner runs like a dream. Intake valves were all perfect, so I didn't do anything to them. I have zero hesitation and at least 10% more power (if not 20%).

For anyone reading this post who is considering adjusting 3VZE valves for the first time, there are a lot of tips I could have used before I started. For example, the special tool works well on 4 of the 6 cylinders. It is a little tricky on #5, and it is impossible on #6. I might do a write up if I ever find time. Thanks everyone!

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

gapping valve comments

Maybe someone else can answer this, but is there any reason not to take the cams out to gain access to the shims? .

I am thinking seriously of pulling the cams in order to put new shims in. I'm not looking forward the task.

When you have your heads out on the bench, pulling the cam is 80 times easier than depressing a fully sprung valve.

In fact, off motor, think about temporarily installing super wimpy Springs, about a buck a piece at Ace Hardware, while you're doing your set up work, it's much easier on you and the tower bolts if you remove the cam couple times.

for on engine. cams installed,

The cheapest tool resembles a pair of brake spring pliers, hooks surround the cam, forces lifter down, then you shove a wedge tool in there to maintain opening while you work. I'm scoping eBay for one, I want to pay less than 30,

The next tool up market is a fork clamp & bolt deal, I think there are some German car tools out there that do the job, must be a lot less annoying than the plier trick.

To get the shims out, be a blow hard; get a long enough airgun with a rubber tip on it to seal up a bit, blow air into that little oil drain notch on the bucket. The air pressure pops the shim out, it works so well you might have to catch them. Probably want some rags all around to keep it from raining oil in your face

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

What was the problem on five and six??

I presume you were talking about the plier type valve opening tool

Was there plumbing in the way on 5 & 6 ?

I think the valve adjusting things been beat to death elsewhere. Just write your tips down instead of a whole procedure. I know I'm hella curious

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

As far as wondering if your valve gaps are correct

Highly likely you would be able to hear wide gaps, lot of clatter.

If the valve is receding (not extremely likely with weak stock springs) then all bets are off without feeler gauges