Hi Lift Jack

JsinLegacy

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I'm wondering what everyone is using when off roading to change a tire if need be. Right how I just have the jack that comes with the 4runner and not sure if it will work on dirt roads or not. 3 inch lift on vehicle and also not sure if a hi Lift will work with the predator step sides or not.

Any recommendations.
 
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I keep a hi lift inside the vehicle and use a rock rail adapter. I also have a off road foot plate thingy for use on soft/uneven surfaces.

The only time so far I've used the hi-lift was in a parking lot, tho.
 
first thing I'd do is practice in my driveway with the factory jack. You'll have to measure to see if it will work with a flat - or let the air out of a tire. A flat steel plate or at least a board will help if you are on soft ground off road; and or make up the difference with your lift.

Also, if you haven't lowered the spare before using the put together rod and handle, then I'd practice that too. It's not something you want to do for the first time on a dark rainy night!

As for the hi-lift jack - the question would be where to place it.
 
I have used a hilift off road to change a tire and break a bead to replace a valve stem. Works but now i just use one of those bottlejack/jackstand combos. Stock jack with a wood base works fine too. I still have the hilift in case.
 
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Ok... With that out of the way. I'm wondering what everyone is using when off roading to change a tire if need be. Right how I just have the jack that comes with the 4runner and not sure if it will work on dirt roads or not. 3 inch lift on vehicle and also not sure if a hi Lift will work with the predator step sides or not.

Any recommendations.

You will not be able to lift the truck with the hi-lift using those steps. You'll need either a proper set of frame mounted sliders, metal bumpers with jacking points, the wheel lift straps that hi-lift sells or a combination of the three.
 
When not on 4x4 trails I carry this around. I keep the Hi-lift in the garage so it doesn't rust. Mine is 48", others recommend a 60". I haven't been in a situation when I needed a 60" but who knows. 60" is pretty damn big and heavy. I also bought this adapter. Obviously won't work if you don't have sliders.
 
Like vegas said. Also, unless you pile rocks or something under the bottle jack and deflate the spare you won’t be able to lift your truck. This is sketchy and not ideal. You will also need an air compressor.

Also, if you are lifted on 285s, I hope you have the correct size spare on a matching width and offset wheel.

If you carry the jack inside you will need to secure it well so it doesn’t bounce around and become a projectile. If stored inside and u have to use it then be ok with a dirty interior.

Those wheel straps may help free your truck but won’t help with tire change.
 
Like vegas said. Also, unless you pile rocks or something under the bottle jack and deflate the spare you won’t be able to lift your truck. This is sketchy and not ideal. You will also need an air compressor.

Also, if you are lifted on 285s, I hope you have the correct size spare on a matching width and offset wheel.

If you carry the jack inside you will need to secure it well so it doesn’t bounce around and become a projectile. If stored inside and u have to use it then be ok with a dirty interior.

Those wheel straps may help free your truck but won’t help with tire change.

That’s what wood is for. Plenty of serious off-roaders use the oem toyota bottle jack. I’m lifted on 285’s and I use mine. In fact I don’t even own a hi lift I just have two bottle jacks. Oem and a 5ton hydronic with some wood. I’ll buy a high lift when I can safely mount it. Otherwise it takes up a ton of space.
 
I don't do enough off road driving to warrant carrying a hi-lift, but I do use mine on the farm occasionally. A bottle jack or scissor jack may fail and cause your truck to fall down, but those jacks themselves won't kill you. A hi-lift has a pretty slim margin of error, so unless its something you have practiced with in difficult situations (soft ground, uneven surfaces) there are better/safer choices.
 
They are an invaluable tool off road if your truck is properly equipped to leverage one (Rock Sliders/Metal Bumpers). I've use mine a decent amount to troubleshoot mechanical issues on the trail and also to get out of bad stucks. Most are correct that you can usually use an OEM bottle jack and some wood. However those of us with longer travel suspension and large tires can't do that if we need to unweight the suspension.

If you do decide to get one make sure you study how to use one safely and practice use before relying on one offroad. Also, please don't use them on your predator steps. You're, going to just bend them into your rocker panels. Not sure why people have those things they are completely useless and hamper breakover clearance.
 
What has been said above about safety and knowing your equipment and how to use it is valuable and important information. Regarding the Hi-Lift I'd reiterate that it's only valuable if you have viable jack points to use it on or the accessories to make it work on your vehicle. The only additional thing I have found that is helpful for a Hi-Lift is a can of spray lubricant as Hi-Lifts rust easily, especially if they live on your rig 100% of the time. (I don't recommend this BTW) As far as using the OEM bottle jack, I'd get it out and extend it all the way to see how it will do for your situation. You'll definitely want some sort of base plate, that will work for both the bottle jack and the Hi-Lift. This doesn't need to be anything fancy. I've found that something with a bit more surface area is helpful for soft conditions. As far as increasing the lift height 2x4's will work or I carry these:


6 Ton 3" Universal Lift Pad – Safe Jack


6 Ton 6" Jack Extension – Safe Jack


As was said above a full sized spare is a good idea although you can limp out on a smaller tire. Also consider carrying a tire repair kit and emergency valve stem replacements.

It can be really challenging to get the spare out from underneath the truck in some off road situations. Repairing the tire on the truck may be a better option sometimes. So then obviously a compressor becomes a necessity as well.
As was said above I'd encourage some dry runs of all this so that in the time of need it's all familiar
 
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The factory jack is perfectly fine for changing tires including 285s. It has plenty of height. I would not use a high lift to change a tire unless I had to. They're not a good jack for that purpose if you have a flat place to use a normal bottle jack.

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and also not sure if a hi Lift will work with the predator step sides or not.

it won't, not many options for a hi-lift without sliders and/or bumpers

you can strap and lift a wheel, that can help you get unstuck but obviously doesn't help you change a tire
 
I have used high lift Jack out in the desert on the border because that's what they gave us. It kicked back once but I didn't get hit, fortunately. Another co-worker got his teeth knocked out. After that I placed a jacket over the Jack handle and kept it tight to my body all the way down and up. It's the distance and force of the kick back that can kill you. Kind of like a shotgun with rifled slug if you don't hold it tight, but that shouldn't kill you. Anyway, I had my wife get me a 60" Hi-Lift for Christmas. Then I found it wouldn't fit safely in my 4Runner. So I need to get a roof rack with Jack mounts. Not necessarily a bad thing. Probably could have made do with 48", but I didn't want to. Come up short. Also, at least on sand, solid plywood 1" thick by 12" square worked well.
 
Kept a 48" Hi lift jack on the rear steel bumper for 2 years.. used it 3 times, only once where it almost took out one of the guys, but at least 2 out of the 3 attempts were good.

Besides lugging it around, it needs a modded truck with proper mounting points to be as useful as it should. Otherwise, you need more work/ other stuff to make it work properly

The Hi Lift now sits in storage as a great conversation piece
 
so, i have sliders and front/rear recovery points, no bumpers. i've got no problem using the OEM toyota bottle jack with a piece of wood to prop it up if necessary.

what do you guys think of hi-lifts as a winch? easy enough to do as a novice or should i just save the money and put it towards a winch? i've got a oregon->washington BDR trip planned, with moab and imogene pass on the near horizon.

id be saving a couple hundred bucks on skipping the hi lift, winch kit, upgrading the chains and hooks, etc.

my current recovery gear as it stands right now is a set of traction pads, 30' kinetic rope, 30' arb snatch strap, recovery points on the front and rear, d-rings, etc.
 
so, i have sliders and front/rear recovery points, no bumpers. i've got no problem using the OEM toyota bottle jack with a piece of wood to prop it up if necessary.

what do you guys think of hi-lifts as a winch? easy enough to do as a novice or should i just save the money and put it towards a winch? i've got a oregon->washington BDR trip planned, with moab and imogene pass on the near horizon.

id be saving a couple hundred bucks on skipping the hi lift, winch kit, upgrading the chains and hooks, etc.

my current recovery gear as it stands right now is a set of traction pads, 30' kinetic rope, 30' arb snatch strap, recovery points on the front and rear, d-rings, etc.

Just add an air pump and you should be set.. I also swapped all solid d-rings to soft shackles as they are just as strong, safer, and less of a harm to the vehicles.

When using a hi lift as a winch, be super careful not using it with a kinetic strap. If one point slips and that jack comes flying it can easily flip a grown man from the ground and that day would go sour pretty quick.. ask me how I know...
 

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