High Idle

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Mine is not searchable either but it does have bookmarks on the side. Do you wanna try mine? It is a 85 4Runner FSM but it should be close.

I'm not familiar with Adobe Reader....didn't realize the bookmarks were there. Turns out mine has those as well, so it will make navigation much easier. I will try following the steps there to troubleshoot the TPS. I'm still thinking the 51 code is from the AC issues I mentioned previously.

 

[helo-mech]

I'm not familiar with Adobe Reader....didn't realize the bookmarks were there. Turns out mine has those as well, so it will make navigation much easier. I will try following the steps there to troubleshoot the TPS. I'm still thinking the 51 code is from the AC issues I mentioned previously.

Could be. Hopefully you'll get it figured out. Looks like you've got some good paths to pursue that's for sure.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Could be. Hopefully you'll get it figured out. Looks like you've got some good paths to pursue that's for sure.

Absolutely. After thinking about it more, all the issues appeared after hitting the curb, so really thinking they may all be related (at least I'm hoping so). Thank you for all the help....even to my noobish questions.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

I'll work on testing the TPS in the next couple of days. I did find this thread which seems similar to my issues. Post 11 says the issue was resolved by adjusting idle. I'm thinking this may be worth a try.

clicking noise , truck dies - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

 

[helo-mech]

I'll work on testing the TPS in the next couple of days. I did find this thread which seems similar to my issues. Post 11 says the issue was resolved by adjusting idle. I'm thinking this may be worth a try.

clicking noise , truck dies - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

I would not just adjust the idle to try and mask the problem though. First thing I would do is get the mechanical linkage working correctly. Checking the TPS and adjusting the idle really won't fix anything. It might be a band-aid for a little while, but that mechanical linkage needs to be working correctly for the Open Circuit, TPS and ECU to all act in harmony together.

Just my .02 :cheers:

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

I would not just adjust the idle to try and mask the problem though. First thing I would do is get the mechanical linkage working correctly. Checking the TPS and adjusting the idle really won't fix anything. It might be a band-aid for a little while, but that mechanical linkage needs to be working correctly for the Open Circuit, TPS and ECU to all act in harmony together.

Just my .02 :cheers:

Makes sense, good points. What is the next step on the mechanical linkage? Something as simple as spraying it with some WD-40 or similar?

 

[KidVermicious]

I just want to add, if you think the COR is cutting in and out and causing the truck to die, you can bypass it. Jump the +B and Fp terminals in the test connector under the hood* and drive around like that, if the truck dies again then you know it isn't the COR or its signal that's causing your trouble. I think the '88 test connector is different than my '85, so check your FSM for specifics.

WD40 gets sticky when it gets old and isn't the right stuff for that job. I would use a graphite lube or silicone spray. Follow the throttle cable all the way to the pedal, is it kinked anywhere? If so, I'd just replace it.

Have you seen the 4Crawler web site? He's got your error codes and how to check them, he's got instructions for troubleshooting and testing the TPS, he's got everything on there. The 4Crawler website is one third of my Holy 22RE Repair Trinity, along with the FSM and a Haynes manual.

*this will cause the fuel pump to be always on when the key is turned, so be aware of that...

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

I just want to add, if you think the COR is cutting in and out and causing the truck to die, you can bypass it. Jump the +B and Fp terminals in the test connector under the hood* and drive around like that, if the truck dies again then you know it isn't the COR or its signal that's causing your trouble. I think the '88 test connector is different than my '85, so check your FSM for specifics.

WD40 gets sticky when it gets old and isn't the right stuff for that job. I would use a graphite lube or silicone spray. Follow the throttle cable all the way to the pedal, is it kinked anywhere? If so, I'd just replace it.

Have you seen the 4Crawler web site? He's got your error codes and how to check them, he's got instructions for troubleshooting and testing the TPS, he's got everything on there. The 4Crawler website is one third of my Holy 22RE Repair Trinity, along with the FSM and a Haynes manual.

*this will cause the fuel pump to be always on when the key is turned, so be aware of that...

Will jumping those terminals keep the fuel relay from kicking off/on? It's driveable with the high idle, but I didn't want to drive it with that relay acting up. I'll pick up the correct lube and spray the throttle linkage, and also check out 4crawler's site for troubleshooting help. Thanks KidV!

 

[KidVermicious]

Will jumping those terminals keep the fuel relay from kicking off/on? It's driveable with the high idle, but I didn't want to drive it with that relay acting up. I'll pick up the correct lube and spray the throttle linkage, and also check out 4crawler's site for troubleshooting help. Thanks KidV!

The CORs job is to cut power to the fuel pump if the engine dies, it's a safety thing in case of a cut fuel line. But if the COR is flaky or is getting a bad signal telling it the engine is off when it isn't, it'll cut power to the fuel pump and then the engine WILL die. Jumping those terminals bypasses the COR completely and the fuel pump will have power any time your key is "on". If the engine still decides to die on you, then you know your problem isn't with the COR circuit.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

The CORs job is to cut power to the fuel pump if the engine dies, it's a safety thing in case of a cut fuel line. But if the COR is flaky or is getting a bad signal telling it the engine is off when it isn't, it'll cut power to the fuel pump and then the engine WILL die. Jumping those terminals bypasses the COR completely and the fuel pump will have power any time your key is "on". If the engine still decides to die on you, then you know your problem isn't with the COR circuit.

That makes sense. I wasn't realizing COR = circuit opening relay when I made the last post. I'll get the throttle linkage lubed, check the throttle cable for kinks, and try jumping those terminals to bypass the COR when I get home from work today. It could take me several days to say for sure that the issue is resolved when the COR is bypassed.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

So I've done some testing of the TPS, at least the best I can do at the moment. I don't have a set of feeler gauges, but on the 4crawler site it says you can use a credit card for the .85mm setting. I tested it closed, .85mm, and wide open. My DMM is an older analog style, so exact readings are difficult to get. Idle seems to be a possible concern, but the others are in check. What are your thoughts?

Idle-roughly 800-900
.85mm - Infinite
Wide open - 4000-5000

Also, when you press the throttle in the engine bay, should the cable have slack in it (vehicle not cranked)? Mine does, so I was thinking that wasn't normal and mine is hanging. I'm going to go get some silicone spray later and lube the linkage, also going to get some cleaner and try cleaning the throttle body without having to remove it (I've read that can cause it to stick). How do I lube the actual cable? I've seen it mentioned but haven't seen the actual procedure documented.

EDIT:

I got some silicone spray and liberally applied it to the throttle linkage. I cranked the truck and it wouldn't start unless I gave it some gas. Once cranked, it wasn't hanging like it was before. I later realized I still had the TPS disconnected from where I was testing earlier, so that was why it had difficulty starting.

I cleaned the throttle body the best I could with it still on the rig, it was amazing how dirty that thing was. Put everything back together and connected the TPS, and for now everything seems to be better. I do not get the clicking on the COR relay and also the throttle isn't hanging like before. I'm headed out of town tomorrow and won't get to drive it until next week, but hopefully it's fixed. Not sure if it was all in the throttle linkage hanging up or if it was the throttle body. Either way, I'm really hoping it was something that simple. I'll know more next week when I have a chance to put a few miles on it.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

So after cleaning the throttle body and lubing the throttle linkage, all the issues seem to have gone away. I've drove it the last two days, idles great and I can no longer hear the COR clicking on/off.

I did notice several things under the hood. I tried looking these up on the online parts diagram but didn't find them. Can anyone identify the following hoses that are in question? I was thinking this may be related, but doesn't seem like it since I haven't noticed the issues lately.

Red arrow = hose with bolt in the end as a plug
Blue arrow = hose with bolt in the end as a plug
Green arrow = hose that is cut into (I replaced this one yesterday)
Yellow arrow = plug that isn't connected anywhere, was just laying there

 

[helo-mech]

So after cleaning the throttle body and lubing the throttle linkage, all the issues seem to have gone away. I've drove it the last two days, idles great and I can no longer hear the COR clicking on/off.

I did notice several things under the hood. I tried looking these up on the online parts diagram but didn't find them. Can anyone identify the following hoses that are in question? I was thinking this may be related, but doesn't seem like it since I haven't noticed the issues lately.

Red arrow = hose with bolt in the end as a plug
Blue arrow = hose with bolt in the end as a plug
Green arrow = hose that is cut into (I replaced this one yesterday)
Yellow arrow = plug that isn't connected anywhere, was just laying there

Glad to hear you got it fixed with just a cleaning and cable lube. I've never had a 22RE so I can't speak to what hoses those are. Probably EGR related but I'll let the experts weigh in.

 

[Du6]

I have a 1990 V6 Runner, So it may be different, but the Circuit Opening relay on mine is mounted way different than that one seems to be. If it's free to rattle around there that might be a problem. Mine is mounted securely to the body behind the speaker area there with a bolt and is set so you can see the plug, but the relay itself is inside the body cavity. As my COR was going out, I occasionally had the engine simply stop running while driving, then one day, It would just run for like 3 seconds, then stop when I tried to start it. This is because the COR supplies power to the fuel pump while cranking, then after turning over, the other part of the COR (It's like 2 relays in one) takes over to power the pump after you're done cranking. I'd be very suspicious of that COR (circuit Opening Relay).
My starter failing was (I think) the reason my COR failed. Have you had any starter issues that would make you want to turn the key alot of times to get it to turn? I think this is what made the relay fail. Hopefully, this has made some sense.

 

[KidVermicious]

So after cleaning the throttle body and lubing the throttle linkage, all the issues seem to have gone away. I've drove it the last two days, idles great and I can no longer hear the COR clicking on/off.

I did notice several things under the hood. I tried looking these up on the online parts diagram but didn't find them. Can anyone identify the following hoses that are in question? I was thinking this may be related, but doesn't seem like it since I haven't noticed the issues lately.

Red arrow = hose with bolt in the end as a plug
Blue arrow = hose with bolt in the end as a plug
Green arrow = hose that is cut into (I replaced this one yesterday)
Yellow arrow = plug that isn't connected anywhere, was just laying there

Red arrow - I don't have a hose there. I have a plastic threaded bolt with a spring. I have no idea what the hell it's for .
Blue arrow and green arrow - on my '85, those go to the power steering pump. I'm confused though, because it looks like you've got a third vacuum line that I don't have at all that's going to the PS pump too... do you have two or three fittings on the back of the PS pump?
Yellow arrow - that plugs into a vacuum switch that's supposed to be on your valve cover, mine sits right about where your blue arrow is. Looks like you're missing it completely.

edit - you know, I think I do have that third hose, the one just above your blue arrow that appears to be headed over towards your power steering pump? If I'm remembering right, on my motor that hose runs to the vacuum switch you're missing. I'll take some photos when I get home.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Red arrow - I don't have a hose there. I have a plastic threaded bolt with a spring. I have no idea what the hell it's for .
Blue arrow and green arrow - on my '85, those go to the power steering pump. I'm confused though, because it looks like you've got a third vacuum line that I don't have at all that's going to the PS pump too... do you have two or three fittings on the back of the PS pump?
Yellow arrow - that plugs into a vacuum switch that's supposed to be on your valve cover, mine sits right about where your blue arrow is. Looks like you're missing it completely.

edit - you know, I think I do have that third hose, the one just above your blue arrow that appears to be headed over towards your power steering pump? If I'm remembering right, on my motor that hose runs to the vacuum switch you're missing. I'll take some photos when I get home.

Thanks for the response. The line with the blue arrow doesn't seem long enough to reach the power steering pump, I'd guess it connects to the vacuum switch I'm missing. Speaking of.....how important is it that I replace this switch? I mean it seems to run fine without it, but I'm not sure of any ill effects.

I have a feeling I will really get to know this truck trying to fix all the previous owner's "repairs/fixes". Half my AC lines are missing, now this, not to mention a very shoddy wiring job on the head unit makes me question what else I'll run into. I guess that's just part of getting an older rig with multiple prior owners.

Here's a pic where you can see the top of the power steering pump. There are only two fittings on the top of the canister you see in the pic.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

I found this, which is said to be a 1984 22RE. According to this, the blue arrow does go to the vacuum switch.

22R, 22RE, 22RTE Vacuum Diagrams - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum