Higher output alternator

dorton

New member
Mine started discharging on the way home from trail riding yesterday. I pulled the alternator off this afternoon, and have been trying to decide what route I wish to go. I've thought about rebuilding it myself, swapping to a GM 1 wire, or just buying a factory replacement. What's everyone else doing?
If GM, how's the long term durability?
 
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I myself bought a Nippendenso high output, burn it up on the trails cause I forgot to upgrade the factory wiring to handle it, then had it rebuilt for half the price for a new high output one. I keep a spare OEM alt. in the truck just in case the HO decides to try to leave me stranded.
 
if it is just the brushes in the one you have now, i would just replace that and be done with it. install a quality battery and it should be plenty.
 
I plan on that route for now, but with the long term strain that is/will be placed on my charging system, I'd like to increase the available amperage.

I run a cb, a ham radio(after next month if I pass my general class exam, 2 ham radios), the winch, lighting, multiple charging cables running to phones,tablets,and laptop, a future fridge,TV, and more. Sure, they're not all on at the same time, but....it all adds up.

If voltage drops while transmitting on the 2m radio, the likelihood of damage to it increases exponentially with every tick below high 12s. It needs 75w to transmit on high, and when it doesn't have the 13.8 it wants, amperage rises making up for the loss of voltage.
 
get a deep cycle battery and change the brushes in the oem alternator. try it out with all your stuff and see how it does.

i currently have rock lights, cb, 12v puma compressor, winch, and inverter
i havent had any issue with stock alternator and a die hard platinum battery
i know i have a 3.0 so my alternator could a little different.

i leave my cb and rock lights on weather the vehicle is running or not.
inverter stays on when i need it to weather vehicle is running or not
vehicle is running when using winch or compressor

so far so good. oh i also leave it parked for months at a time and fires up as if it was a brand new battery. i have a tender for it but never use it lol
 
I plan on that route for now, but with the long term strain that is/will be placed on my charging system, I'd like to increase the available amperage.

I run a cb, a ham radio(after next month if I pass my general class exam, 2 ham radios), the winch, lighting, multiple charging cables running to phones,tablets,and laptop, a future fridge,TV, and more. Sure, they're not all on at the same time, but....it all adds up.

If voltage drops while transmitting on the 2m radio, the likelihood of damage to it increases exponentially with every tick below high 12s. It needs 75w to transmit on high, and when it doesn't have the 13.8 it wants, amperage rises making up for the loss of voltage.


But you don't run all that stuff at once.
Watch out for these HO alts, many don't perform as advertised.
Especially at idle rpms. A couple of friends that have them are disappointed with them.
 
That's why I'm apprehensive about the GM 1 wire setups. I'm not sold on their longevity. For now, it will be rebuilding the original, but I'll be planning for long term replacement. My options will change once I initiate an engine swap though.
 
ive been running an HO gm 1 wire for years on my offroad truck. im running dual blue tops.

no issues.

they're cheap enough, that if it was really a concern, you can buy a spare, and keep it with just in case.
 
Mine? Doesn't like headlights, blinker, and fan all at the same time, but I haven't done my Big Three yet so it may not be the alternators' fault.

KidV,
Before upgrading the Big 3, do you run your additional circuit from:
1) A fused line directly connected to the battery or
2) Your stock Fuse block?

(1) will prevent minimize current -hence less voltage drops- through your stock wiring (fusible links, etc). and allow battery (able to provide tons of cranking current after all) to directly power additional circuits on demand. All the alt will be doing would be to replenish the charge on your battery quicker.

Upgrading ground wires to ensure better connection between alternator ground, body & engine block grounds, and battery negative[/URL], then Alt-to-bat ("B Wire, yellow below) would surely help.

Charging_Alt_Batt-Notes_zps3da087c5.jpg~original


...Watch out for these HO alts, many don't perform as advertised. Especially at idle rpms. A couple of friends that have them are disappointed with them.

That's why I'm apprehensive about the GM 1 wire setups. I'm not sold on their longevity. For now, it will be rebuilding the original, but I'll be planning for long term replacement. My options will change once I initiate an engine swap though.

Depending on your auxiliary circuit needs, a stock alt body with upgraded stator (up to 90 amps they claim), may be more reliable.
 
Last edited:
KidV,
Before upgrading the Big 3, do you run your additional circuit from:
1) A fused line directly connected to the battery or
2) Your stock Fuse block?

(1) will prevent minimize current -hence less voltage drops- through your stock wiring (fusible links, etc). and allow battery (able to provide tons of cranking current after all) to directly power additional circuits on demand. All the alt will be doing would be to replenish the charge on your battery quicker.

Upgrading ground wires to ensure better connection between alternator ground, body & engine block grounds, and battery negative[/URL], then Alt-to-bat ("B Wire, yellow below) would surely help.

I haven't yet, but I was planning on bringing an extra fuse block straight off the battery. I was also planning on checking with you first, good to know I was planning on doing it right. :)
 
smaller pulley helps

I have a HO alternator- ebay.. I ended up putting a overdrive pulley to boost the rpm at idle output.

1.9 INCH 4 GROOVE OVERDRIVE PULLEY (FACTORY 2.5")
ITEM# 24-82264

Used on standard Nippondenso alternators with 4 groove serpentine belts.

Increases rotor speed at idle by over 800 RPM's for higher output.

Dimensions- (14mm) Belt x 1.9" (48mm) OD x .59" (15mm) Bore

Features:

* Machined from cold rolled steel.
* Anodized finish
 

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