Hitch mounted bike rack...

Been trying to figure out how to best accomplish this. The Ney York noose may be too big. [emoji2]

Also don't want the chain rubbing the paint off the rack. Thoughts?

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I've got 2 of those locks, they are way too heavy to have swinging around while you are driving! I'd use a short cable lock for the rack and lock the bikes with the chain lock when parked. 1up has some hitch lock options too, did you look at those?

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I have a Yakima Twotimer on my 2010. It's a bit of a dog in the looks department but cheap ($299) and seems solid. I particularly like it's smaller form factor. It doesn't look like someone welded railroad tracks to my hatch and the license plate isn't obscured.

It can also easily be converted into a one-bike rack which allows hatch access even when folded. Durability is a question on some reviews but I'm hoping I'm smarter than those people:)
 
The Yakima Hold Up 2 still works best for all my wife's and my bikes because the tray and clamps adjust to fit any tire dimensions. It also doesn't interfere with access to the back of the 4Runner or damage the bikes' frames, like many frame mounts do.
 
The Kuat looks cool. I didn't try that because it also doesn't work with < 24 inch wheels and the work stand thing seems like an expensive gimmick. I can only see it being useful on camp/bike trips a couple times a year when I'm happy to just throw a work stand in the back of the truck.
-slide

My Kuat, an older Sherpa, came with adapters for smaller wheels. I think down to 20".. So you might want to double check.

Edit: The adapter: http://www.kuatonline.com/20-24-wheel-adapter
 
I'll second the 1Up. I used a Yakima Double Down for years and when it came time to replace it I went round and round between the Kuat and the 1Up. The 1Up won and it's awesome.


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I have both a 1UP and a Northshore 6 (NSR-6) on my rack and love both.

1UP - I leave this on my 4Runner pretty much all the time. To open the rear it does need to be in the middle or lowered position, it can't be vertical. A little sad about that as my last car could, but love this rack. Make sure to get the 2" setup if you want 3 or 4 bikes on it, the 1.25 is designed for only 2.

NSR-6 - This is the beast for Moab trips and larger group rides. There was a discussion earlier (back on page 6/7) about position. I contacted Northshore and they recommended set back 1 and lean 2, rather than lean 3 with setback 0 (using the conventions established earlier in this thread). Conversation copied below.

Hi,

Thanks for the email. If you set the rack back out one setting on the hitch tube, that should do it. Have a great week.
****

Hi Northshore team!

Is it bettter/more optimal to carry my bikes leaned all the way back in the third position or in the second lean back position but moved out to the last set of holes in the Hitch Tube?

I just upgraded to a 4Runner and when the rack is in the forward position of the hitch tube and in the second lean back position the tires of my bikes just hit the spoiler (boo!). It's only when going over bumps that it hits (and leaves a light scuff on the spoiler). I'm debating between adjusting the rack, as mentioned above, or adding some protective film to the spoiler. Ideas?

Thank you!
 
Had Kuat NV and 1up - after owning both, though each have great features...to me, the Kuat was a better fit for my use.

For Off-Roaders that are doing steep terrain with bikes, the 1up does sit a bit higher and elevates with each additional bike.

The Kuat on the other hand was just easier to operate. Not as clunky/ratchety as the 1up when engaging and disengaging the bike.

In the end, I think both those racks are the Top 2 in my opinion - just depends which you like better. The 1up folded up definitely sits nice and tight to the body. I do like how the Kuat allows for the Hitch Pin - feels better without needing a chain or cable lock to secure aside from the tightening bolt.

Today, just told my 1up to go back to a Kuat NV Base (no need for the bike stand part on the premium NV).
 
I cannot recommend this rack enough. I have the single, black anodized with one add-on rack. The design is beautifully simple, and very well done. It's extremely easy to mount, and almost easier to load and unload your bike. After having 2 bikes on a number of rough roads, I can also say that it is very stable. I do check the rack tightness after a rough road because it will typically loosen up over a long rough trek, although never enough to make me feel like it would fall off. Just enough for me to notice a little more rocking side to side than normal. Easy twist of the wrench before hitting the road and you're good to go.

A few big pluses: The almost all aluminum construction, meaning great strength to weight ratio, and a long lift span. The ability to have the single rack makes keeping the rack on the truck full time extremely convenient because even in the stowed position, you can open and access the cargo area. For me this is a big benefit as it makes the likelihood of me riding at the end of the day much higher.

Ultimately it comes down to a person's list of features that they want on the rack that will sway them one way or another. For me, this one is the winner and I highly recommend it to anyone who asks me for my opinion. At the end of the day, as long as the bike makes it to the trail head that's all that matters :thumb3:


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Revival from the dead.

I just ordered the 1up.. I noticed you have a lock on the bottom. Any closeup pics showing your chain/lock setup? I’m looking for something simple but yet effective as a deterrent. Thanks!
 
Another +1 for the 1UP racks, and +2 for the RakAttach swing-arm (http://rakattach.com/ - also sold directly through 1UP). This is my setup for long trips where I'm hauling myself plus one or two other bikes and gear. A 4th bike is an option for the rack, though that's getting a little out of my comfort zone for practicality, stability and effective vehicle length. This is the heavy duty 2-bike base rack, plus a single heavy duty add-on. The Super Duty rack is the same as this, but has an extra reinforcing piece that goes between the trays to allow carrying heavier bikes >50lbs.

The whole setup feels really solid on the road. The RakAttach has a locking pin as well as a compression clamp and plastic bushings, so there is no rattle or shake. It only takes 15 seconds to unpin it, unclamp it, and swing it out. A bit longer if you have the bikes cable locked to the safety loops on the receiver of the truck and you don't have enough slack in the cable. FYI this is a size LARGE RakAttach. They come in 3 sizes, which essentially determines how far away the bikes will swing from the vehicle.

I have some ideas about fabricating something that attaches to the swing-out. Maybe holding a small 5lb propane bottle and providing a small fold down surface for setting up a camp stove and cooking when I do destination rides with camping involved.

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For my everyday rides where it's just me and my gear, I favor my solution that I built into my custom drawer system. Keeps the bike more protected and it's a bit more stealthy.

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I just ordered the 1up! Very pumped.. it’s arriving tomorrow. I ordered the black single rack. I’m the only rider in our house currently. How are you guys securing the rack to the t4r?
 
I have a Northshore 4 bike rack and I like it. It holds the bike by the crown and the rear wheel is secured by a rope with a knot in it, relying on the tire to squish to keep it in tension. Like a tray rack, the frame shape doesn't matter. Unlike a tray rack, wheel size doesn't matter. However if the clearance between the tire and the crown is too small (like a road bike), it won't work. It holds bikes very securely (including bombing down desert roads) and it's very quick to take the bikes on and off once you get the knots in the right place. Unless your front brakes drag, you should run a bungee through the front wheel because it sticks out above the roofs and air catches and spins it. The best part is that the hatch clears anytime a bike is not on it. If you do have bikes on, either roll down the rear window or you can swing the entire rack down. One problem is that it will rub the paint off the crown. I have a bike from 2007, so I don't care, but if you do you can just put on some clear chainstay protector. Another problem was that there was quite a bit of play in the hitch. Idk if the problem is the 4runner hitch or the NSR hitch tube, but I solved it with a hitch tightener thing. I might look at recon racks if I ever need to get a new one, but I shouldn't because this is beefy, solid, and works well. The 1-UPs look nice and I bet they work great, but $600 vs $927 in the cheapest configuration to hold 4 bikes was an easy decision. Add the RakAttach for another $360. From Recon, 4 bikes is $775 and 5 is $930. 5 would be nice because the car seats 5, but oh well. Lolo racks and Swagman Rack also carry bikes upright if you are interested.

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Never mind the rust, the hitch tube is stainless, I was just experimenting.
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Another +1 for the 1UP racks, and +2 for the RakAttach swing-arm (http://rakattach.com/ - also sold directly through 1UP). This is my setup for long trips where I'm hauling myself plus one or two other bikes and gear. A 4th bike is an option for the rack, though that's getting a little out of my comfort zone for practicality, stability and effective vehicle length. This is the heavy duty 2-bike base rack, plus a single heavy duty add-on. The Super Duty rack is the same as this, but has an extra reinforcing piece that goes between the trays to allow carrying heavier bikes >50lbs.

The whole setup feels really solid on the road. The RakAttach has a locking pin as well as a compression clamp and plastic bushings, so there is no rattle or shake. It only takes 15 seconds to unpin it, unclamp it, and swing it out. A bit longer if you have the bikes cable locked to the safety loops on the receiver of the truck and you don't have enough slack in the cable. FYI this is a size LARGE RakAttach. They come in 3 sizes, which essentially determines how far away the bikes will swing from the vehicle.

I have some ideas about fabricating something that attaches to the swing-out. Maybe holding a small 5lb propane bottle and providing a small fold down surface for setting up a camp stove and cooking when I do destination rides with camping involved.

attachment.php


attachment.php


For my everyday rides where it's just me and my gear, I favor my solution that I built into my custom drawer system. Keeps the bike more protected and it's a bit more stealthy.

attachment.php

Wow, awesome looking rig dude. I am looking to get a 1Up for myself (single af) but I love the option to be able to expand it for additional bikes when needed. I'm thinking I am just going to start with a single, but I can't really figure out if there is a benefit on going with the quik-rack single vs the super duty single. I just ride downhill FS bikes, so no super heavy e-bikes or anything. Think it is worth the extra ~$50 bucks to do the Super Duty single over the Quick Rack Single to start out with?

Also, got any more details on those drawers??? What are they made of? I love the look of those!
 
Wow, awesome looking rig dude. I am looking to get a 1Up for myself (single af) but I love the option to be able to expand it for additional bikes when needed. I'm thinking I am just going to start with a single, but I can't really figure out if there is a benefit on going with the quik-rack single vs the super duty single. I just ride downhill FS bikes, so no super heavy e-bikes or anything. Think it is worth the extra ~$50 bucks to do the Super Duty single over the Quick Rack Single to start out with?

Also, got any more details on those drawers??? What are they made of? I love the look of those!

From what I can tell the main difference is that the Quik is a 1.25" receiver rack with an adapter that lets you use it in a 2" receiver. They are very similar in design but the structure that holds the tilt mechanism and hitch mount are a bit less beefy on the Quik. The Super also has the add-on bar which stiffens the bike trays and allows them to hold 75lb instead of 50lb. There's a ~5lb difference between the two racks. You can see the differences and similarities in the 3D models:

Super 3D: https://www.1up-usa.com/3d-viewer/asm-frames.html?SUPER_DUTY_SINGLE/

Quik 3D: https://www.1up-usa.com/3d-viewer/asm-frames.html?1_UP_USA_SINGLE_RACK/

I do know a guy who has the Quik and he's had problems with it loosening up in his 2" receiver. I don't know if that's something he's doing wrong or what, but I think I'd lean towards getting the one with the 2" receiver out of the gate. He said 1UP would sell him the parts to convert his rack but it wasn't cheap - like $80+. It is nice that they'd support him though.

Thanks for the compliments on the rig. As for the drawers, the outer shell is built out of aluminum extrusion from https://www.tnutz.com/ and 3/4" plywood covered in automotive carpet and automotive headliner adhesive. The drawers are built from a mix of 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" ply, 200lb capacity 28" extension drawer slides, and custom faces and latches that I CNC machined out of HDPE plastic (video of that here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSH1kILAqkA ). I should do a post about that project at some point, though it's kind of a continual project as I evolve the design.
 
I just ordered the 1up! Very pumped.. it’s arriving tomorrow. I ordered the black single rack. I’m the only rider in our house currently. How are you guys securing the rack to the t4r?

It attaches with a "security bolt" you'll see. I don't use anything beyond that, but I also don't leave it on the truck full time.
 
I just ordered the 1up! Very pumped.. it’s arriving tomorrow. I ordered the black single rack. I’m the only rider in our house currently. How are you guys securing the rack to the t4r?

I am currently using a couple of 6' cables ( https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-78DPF-Braided-Diameter/dp/B00004Y8CX ) and padlocks ( https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Padlock-Laminated-1115DLHIM/dp/B012SBIGR2/ ). I run a loop through the bikes (and wheels if possible) and lock to the loops on the hitch mount where you'd normally attach your towing safety chains.

I also have supplemental locks:

I didn't get the 1UP wheel locks that they sell, but it's another option ( https://www.1up-usa.com/product/wheel-locks/ ) ... If you buy all your locks at the same time they will come keyed the same.

This level of security is only going to stop an honest (or poorly equipped) thief. Bolt cutters would have the bikes off silently in 30 seconds. Battery powered angle grinder with a cutoff wheel, or a few well placed hammer and cold chisel blows would probably have the whole rack off in a minute or two. I definitely get a little nervous parking in places when I can't keep an eye on the bikes, but I try to keep that to a minimum.

I might consider one or two of those ridiculously heavy Kryptonite chains for locking up when I stop for an extended time, something like https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Fahgettaboudit-Bicycle-Chain/dp/B001SMUB7G/ ... I would not really want to drive around with such a heavy chain looped through high end bikes for fear it would wear paint or damage the frame or components.
 
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