HokieRunner Build

HokieRunner

HokieRunner

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2005 Sport Edition 4Runner V8 4WD (purchased Jan. 2009) as she currently sits:













Spring '13:



After her first major detail in '09, pre-upgrades:



*Unless noted otherwise, I've done everything myself - so feel free to ask if you need help on anything. Also - I just have a driveway but plenty of tools so if anyone in the Northern VA area wants help wrenching, just let me know.

Suspension/Steering:
  • Radflo Ext. Travel 2.5 Coilovers OW spec valving 700# F/220# R - 1/2" thread showing
  • DSM Desert Racing 1" SS Uniball UCAs
  • Energy Suspension Poly LCA bushings
  • Moog greasable LCA ball joint
  • Reman'd CV axles from CVJ in CO
  • New KOYO Front wheel bearings
  • Moog Inner/Outer Tie Rods (installed by HighTech just before alignment)
  • Daystar Spacer DS rear 'lean fix'
  • Energy Suspension poly rear sway bar bushings
  • OW rear brake line relocation bracket
  • Front Sway bar delete (ran relo kit for a few months)
  • Metaltech Rear Lower Control Arms

Wheels/Tires/Brakes:
  • Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs 285/70/17
  • Konig Six Shooter Graphite Gunmetal 17X8 / 0 offset / 4.5" backspacing
  • Matching spare with 40% tread in OEM location (1/2" clearance to panhard bar with V8 tow hitch)
  • NAPA Premium Rotors with AdvancedONE Brake pads Front and Rear
  • NAPA Reman'd Front Calipers (DS replaced 2x, PS 3x so far due to frozen pistons - lifetime warranty)

Armor:
  • Shrockworks Front Winch Bumper
  • RCI Aluminum Engine Skid
  • RCI Steel Transmission and Transfer Case Skids
  • White Knuckle Off Road Bolt on sliders with top plate (custom center mount location for RCI skid compatibility)
  • BAMF LCA Skids
  • Body mount chopped (High Tech)

Body:
  • Whitson Metalworks Roof rack fabbed for 40" LED bar
  • My DIY Fairing for WMW Roof rack
  • 06+ Facelift (headlights blacked out courtesy of Gaterose)
  • 06+ LED taillights
  • 1/2" bodylift (waiting for a some free time/warmer weather to install it)

Audio:

Lighting
  • Phillips 6k HID kit (Morimoto 5k kit will be replacing this soon)
  • PIAA 510 Ion Fogs
  • Gauge/dash LED upgrade DIY
  • Interior 5k LED dome/door/license plate upgrades
  • LED markers in Shrockwork bumper

Accessories:
  • Custom Interior Dual Bike Rack MY DIY writeup
  • Thule Cross bars for WMW Rack with Yakima FatCat 6 Ski rack and Malone kayak rack
  • Cargo barrier
  • WMW cargo crossbars
  • On board tool kit and MV50 air compressor
  • Tow strap and shackles

Jaeger is my usual co-pilot.



Merry Xmas:

 
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Current Projects:

Electrical:
-Dual Battery Kit with monitor
-Center console custom switch panel (Blue seas with OTRATTW switches)
-Relay boxes on custom underhood panel
-Rear cargo area switch panel/inverter







Storage:
-Rear cargo box with dual sliding drawers, built in switch panel for lighting and inverter, and sliding table top with potential slide out ramp for the dogs (in design phase)

Lighting:
-40" LED bar on roof rack. 6" LED floods on WMW rack as alley lights. Rear spots in OEM reflectors (Gaterose mod), LED rock lights
-20" Amber LED bar on modified BAMF light mount behind Satoshi grill

Body:
-Satoshi grill modified (Jaos Aura grill knockoff)






Future Plans:

-Engo 10k Winch with Synthetic line and Aluminum thimble
-Rear bumper/swingout
-Heated seats
-HAM radio for communications
-On board air
-possibly install double din DVD/NAV unit
 
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First few years didn't do very much to the truck. Debadged, upgraded to 265/70/17 Yokohama Geolandar ATS tires, added wheel spacers and then in 2011 gutted the interior and upgraded the stereo. Also sound deadened the truck.

Went on a good number of roadtrips and the 4Runner served reliably as the main hauler for friends and gear.

Poconos:




OBX:


2010 Snowstorm:


Interior lights/cluster upgrade:


Stereo upgrade/sound deadening:









In 2012 I decided I was going to rebuild the 4Runner and heavily upgrade it. I've always been the person in my family with a car while my folks and sister have had Jeeps, Land Rovers etc. So while I'm certainly no stranger to trucks or off roading, this would be my first build. I spent a lot of 2012 saving and planning my build. Early 2013 I finally started placing orders and in the Spring began the upgrades.

Stock:



First up was rebuilding the front suspension components. The LCA bushings were shot and the alignment bolts were frozen. So i sawzalled them off and got to rebuilding the LCA's with Energy Suspension poly bushings:

Removing the old bushings:


Clean up and repaint LCA arms, then grease and press in new poly bushings:


Re-install:


In go the Radflos and Light Racing UCAs:








OEM vs. Radflo:


 
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Post Lift:



I timed my lift install right as my bumper and wheels/tires arrived. So I installed the new armor and shoes before heading to High Tech where Ducmonsta had his guys do new inner/outer tie rods and an alignment.

Bumper:






After High Tech was done:


I added some armor over the later summer including White Knuckle sliders and finally installed the fairing I made for the WMW rack:






 
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Those headlights look like sh*t Matt, what a hack job!

Otherwise, as I've said before, great looking build!
 
Trying out the WMW rack for the first time on a kayak trip:



The rack is ridiculously well built and handled the kayaks with ease. Between hauling stuff for tailgating, camping, etc, it hasn't flinched. The wind noise was rather annoying at first but the fairing fixed all that.

Replaced the amber LED indicators on the HVAC:



Custom interior bike rack I built. Bolts into recessed nuts in the cargo deck and the whole unit can be installed or removed in about 30 secs. I was going to go hitch or rack mount but having the bike inside means I can tote it around for after work rides and not have to worry about security during the day.





Trimmed the rear mud flaps:

 
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Matt has an awesome 4th gen and was really helpful answering my questions when I first joined. His truck has been an inspiration for my build.
 


Click to expand...


I was right there with you... well, until I saw these pictures. I've gotten fairly decent at turning wrenches over the years, but this set pics scared the crap out of me! Ha!

Great job on the build - your truck is as nice as they get! But I am sorry, because I'm gonna have to clone it and make it my own. :)
 
Thanks for all the positive comments! It is greatly appreciated and so many folks on this board have been incredibly helpful. Without this board and toyota120, a lot of my researching and subsequent build would have been infinitely more difficult.

Over the upcoming months I hope to post a lot more details on the why/how of products and methods used so as to 'pay it back' and to add a little explanation as to the thought process behind the build.

The electrical and cargo box projects are the ones I'm tackling over the winter and they'll be covered ad nauseum and probably in their own threads for other folks ease of use.
 
Secondary Air Injection Pump Bypass install

I haven't seen a lot in regards to this issue on 4Runners but occasionally posts pop up where folks have one of these error codes or experience a noisy/faulty air injection pump.

The following are error codes which can be remedied with a bypass module or the cheaper relay option:

P1441, P1442, P1444, P1445, P2440, P2441, P2442, P2443, P2444 or P2445

I had several CEL lights this past summer relating to stuck closed valves and air pumps stuck off. Tundras had a HUGE issue with failing/faulty pumps and Toyota decided to cover them under warranty. Even though 4Runners have the same systems and problems, Toyota decided they would not extend the courtesy to 4Runner owners.

Long story short - if you have any of those codes and need to pass emissions/want to clear the CEL lights or prevent even worse AIP (air injection pump) issues in the future, there are a couple options other than replacing pumps and valves which can run upwards of $3000.

These codes CANNOT be cleared with bypass:P0412, P0415, P0418, P0419, P1613, P1614

The two bypass methods are:

1. DIY Relay Method Runs about $40 in supplies.

2. AIP Solid State Bypass Module with block off plates. Was $200 when I got it but looks like price has increased (I think you have to contact the seller for exact pricing) Module link. The seller also provides about 14 pages of detailed instructions so as long as you aren't color blind and can solder it's a VERY easy install.

I know [MENTION=68704]superman3043[/MENTION] had this issue and used option #1. He was extremely helpful when I installed mine and had a question or two. Hopefully he doesn't mind me name dropping him here

I ended up going the second route. While it was more expensive I liked the solid state module and how clean the install would be. I'm in the process of adding a lot of wiring and a 2nd battery and really wanted the cleanest OEM look possible for the least amount of work. I'm sure you can make the relay look pretty clean but I just wanted a quick fix and to be done with it.

Install took about an hour and a half and about an hour of that was spent cleaning and re-looming everything to keep it factory looking.

**Quick background on what the bypass does/how it works. The air injection system runs a system check whenever you start the truck at a COLD start up. It checks the air temp via the MAF sensor and if the air temp registers GREATER than 41 degrees, it fires up the air pumps to pump air into the catalytic converters to warm them up faster and prevent unwanted air pollution. So, the bypass intercepts the temperature check signal and tells the air pump system that it does not need to run. For emissions testing the computer just checks to see that the system is running its protocols so it will see that it's running standard checks and pass (assuming there aren't unrelated emissions issues).

Now on to the install pics.

First step is to locate the MAF sensor wire.



Unplug the sensor and take the wiring out of the loom. There should be 5 wires:

You can ignore the Brown wire and white/red wire as those will not be tapped into.

Here's the bypass module and wiring diagram:



*edit - need to add a pic of the diagram here...

The wires soldered and ready for heat shrink tubing:



Re-wrap with electrical tape and re-loom. Even though I staggered the wiring taps with clean solder joints, the OEM loom was too brittle and narrow to house the modified harness so I added larger loom to the center section to keep it protected and somewhat factory.





The block off plates are near impossible to get a decent picture of but following the instructions is very straight forward. Just loosen the 2 nuts on each manifold, slide the plates in and re-tighten.

I need to get an updated picture of the starter relay wire (purple wire). Its function is to send the signal when the starter fires up. Basically if you turn the key to accessory and don't start the truck for 5 secs, the module will no longer start the signal so the starter signal re-starts the module. You really don't need it if you get in and start your truck up right away.
 
Looks good Matt! Glad you got squared away. We're about to do another for my buddy that's getting intermittent lights and codes. So far so good on mine.
 
superman3043 said:
Looks good Matt! Glad you got squared away. We're about to do another for my buddy that's getting intermittent lights and codes. So far so good on mine.
Click to expand...

Thanks and good luck on his truck. With the bypass and block off plates I just passed VA emissions yesterday so it definitely works! Sometimes the block off plates will be needed even if you go the relay route. I installed the bypass but didn't have time to put the block off plates in at the same time. A few days after I thought it was fixed it threw CEL/VSC etc and put the truck in limp mode. Block off plates solved this issue.

These plates block exhaust from pumping up to the secondary air pump valves. This can trip other codes and potentially put the truck in limp mode. Just something to keep in mind if the relay fix is properly done but doesn't fix the problem.

I also think these same block off plates would be a viable solution for anyone using aftermarket manifolds/headers to keep the air injection system happy.

Got some pictures of the plates installed and uninstalled from underneath the truck that I'll post up soon.
 
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