Home made motorvac... Will this work?

shootmymime

New member
So I'm creeping up on 200,000 miles and believe my truck is a real dawg unless I get it above 3k rpm.

I've been reading and thinking about doing a motorvac cleaning (we do them at the shop I used to work at) but I don't have access to the shop right now or anytime in the future.

I know how a motorvac system works and what it does to clean the carbon out of intake - cat. But I will be bypassing the fuel system cleaning and just focus on the air delivery side of the motor.

When you see a vehicle with a bad head gasket. What does that cyl look like? Super clean and free of deposits compared to the others. So why won't this work?

The basic process of doing a motorvac cleaning is to steam clean the inside of the motor with a concentrated detergent to remove carbon deposits.

I read somewhere that windshield washer fluid was used to steam clean someone's engine.

So my thoughts are to hook up the washer fluid nozzles into the air intake and pump washer fluid into the motor while it's running.
Of course a word of caution would be to not pump enough into hydro lock the motor. But I believe keeping the rpm up to not kill it should be enough to avoid a hydro lock.

If I am able to figure out a way to shoot a mist spray of fluid into the intake before the TB I feel it should effectively clean the inside of the motor and restore some lost power.

What are your thoughts? Is washer fluid concentrated enough? Is distilled water any better? Will this work or is It a waste of time? [MENTION=76617]shallcallhimtim[/MENTION]
 
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I have a water injection nozzle in the intake of my Saturn and run the -20 washer fluid through it on occasion on a work stretch.

My nozzle size will use up the gallon in about 300 miles of driving just using manifold vacuum to pull it into the engine.
 
I have a water injection nozzle in the intake of my Saturn and run the -20 washer fluid through it on occasion on a work stretch.

My nozzle size will use up the gallon in about 300 miles of driving just using manifold vacuum to pull it into the engine.


It does not seem like much washer fluid to clean it but have you had the engine apart?

That's it another great idea. Just have the vacuum from the motor draw the fluid in. Might be more effective over longer period of time.

So main question. What made you do this? Just curious
 
Just use water. I was actually thinking of doing this to mine today. I've done it on a few motorcycles with good results. On one I doubled the compression on the worst cylinder, it started better, idled better, sounded better, and revved quicker. I ended up taking another one apart after I did it and it cleaned the combustion chamber up quite a bit. When I've done it on bikes I let it suck the water through a little hose that is slightly pinched off, adjust the pinch as you go and keep it revved up so it doesn't die.
 
Just use water. I was actually thinking of doing this to mine today. I've done it on a few motorcycles with good results. On one I doubled the compression on the worst cylinder, it started better, idled better, sounded better, and revved quicker. I ended up taking another one apart after I did it and it cleaned the combustion chamber up quite a bit. When I've done it on bikes I let it suck the water through a little hose that is slightly pinched off, adjust the pinch as you go and keep it revved up so it doesn't die.



My main thought for this was for my dirt bikes as well. Really hoping to clean some crap out of it. I just rebuilt a buddy's xr400 and he has a lot on the bottom of his valves.
I'll maybe try that on my bike tomorrow or Monday.

I thought of using a spray bottle and shooting it directly into the carb with intake removed.
 
My main thought for this was for my dirt bikes as well. Really hoping to clean some crap out of it. I just rebuilt a buddy's xr400 and he has a lot on the bottom of his valves.
I'll maybe try that on my bike tomorrow or Monday.

I thought of using a spray bottle and shooting it directly into the carb with intake removed.

I've never done it on a single, only twins and 4 cylinders. I would think that it would be harder to keep a single running but not really sure, just be careful about how much water is going in. When I do it if I can only let the water into one cylinder at a time I'll do it that way. Then if it gets too much water it will be harder to kill it. I've heard of using a spray bottle but never tried it. Check the compression before and after to see how well it worked, also a good idea to check valve clearances after since it might knock off carbon that was stuck on the exhaust valve and/or seat that may have been compensated for by a previous valve adjustment.
 
If you have any pilot jets I already stuck one inside a hose to draw water out of a bottle. I even added acetone to it.

The pilot jet worked so well that's why I got a 50cc per min water injection nozzle and drilled and tapped my sattys intake right behind the Throttle body.

I mounted a limit switch on the bell crank to energize a water solenoid at 3% throttle. That way its not drawing at idle at a stop sign or light

Winter I use the -20 stuff summer I use water.

Between the oil vapor, the EGR and the oil burning they are known for it at the least keeps the intake clean.

I also put 4oz acetone in the tank every few filups.
 
GM also makes a upper engine cleaner in a spray can the you just spray into the TB of a running engine. It foams on contact. Its a carbon eater.

Another reason other than mentioned above is my satty had cold knock at startup from way too much carbon buildup.

If you search google for 1998 Donor Motor you will find my thread on the engine mods.

IE water injection, Singh's Groove in the combustion chamber and the ST (surface tension) intake valve mod.
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I have not had it apart I installed everything with the head. I also had a PCV condenser too.

She has 210,000 miles and I average 38-39 mpg for my work stretch. 62 miles of All rural roads each work day.

Next time this engine comes apart it will not be going back in. I already have a block, crank and rods with pistons ready.
 
I ran washer fluid thru a small vacuum hose with the truck,like a half gallon or so. I was getting misfires/hesitation during hard acceleration,so before changing the spark plugs I did this. Idle did seem to improve (steadier and smoother) but plugs ended up being the cause for my misfires.

While I had the intake tube off to access the passenger side spark plugs I cleaned the throttle body with carb or brake cleaner.
 
Have you tried putting it on a DYNO? (with stock 265s)

Just brainstorming here but isn't that the only way to really know if you are lagging because of the engine vs. say the lift and tires?

I wouldn't assume that carbon build up is significant just because you have 200,000 miles.

My engine failed due to a cracked head at 199,800 miles and when they opened it up there was no sludge and little major carbon build up. What did happen was a cracked head due to what I believe to be wear and tear.

My point is that just because you have 200k I wouldn't assume that carbon or sludge are a major concern. At least if the engine has been properly cared for.

...

AND that comment is followed up by "if it ain't broke don't fix it" which is what I normally tell people who are considering doing a Seafoam treatment "JUST BECAUSE ITS OLD" which I have heard many many times on this forum, although not from OP.
 
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I did it because my car burns 1/2-3/4qt per 1000 miles.

When I swapped heads for a leaking head gasket I had 1/16 inch baked on buildup on the piston tops and clumps in the combustion chambers. There was enough carbon I bet I was above 10:1 CR.
 
I think steam cleaning engine's works well. I also feel like mine runs like an old dog, but I haven't done anything major to it yet. I've thought about a motorvac treatment but I haven't found anywhere local that does it. Here's a thread that I think is closely related to what you are thinking about and there are lots of good points in here for both sides of the argument.

Seafoam, Marvel Mystery oil, Methanol injection, they really work! - YotaTech Forums
 
I think steam cleaning engine's works well. I also feel like mine runs like an old dog, but I haven't done anything major to it yet. I've thought about a motorvac treatment but I haven't found anywhere local that does it. Here's a thread that I think is closely related to what you are thinking about and there are lots of good points in here for both sides of the argument.

Seafoam, Marvel Mystery oil, Methanol injection, they really work! - YotaTech Forums


That's the post I had read in the past and was thinking about it.
 
So I decided to go take a look under the good and think of wiring something up. And came up with this:

I disconnected the washer fluid line from the L clip on the fender. Then took that hose and moved it towards the intake and hooked it up to the intake. Disconnected the wiper motor and went into the driver seat and kit a few bursts of water into the intake. BUT... There was not enough vacuum in the intake to suck it up and it all ran out the end into the air filter. So no luck.

I then decided to go the usual route and run the line into the PCV valve line. Stuck the washer fluid line in the PCV line and it instantly started sucking washer fluid in the motor without using the pump on the washer fluid. In order to prevent too much water going into the motor I pinched the flexible washer fluid line to limit my water intake. At first quite a bit or white smoke was pouring out then it eventually stopped.

I kept experimenting with how much water I should let in from none to enough to stall it out. (Not hydro lock.). But so fat it has done good sucking the washer fluid.

Sadly I did not get a before picture of the intake but this is what it looked like when I was all done.

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