Hopefully getting 2019 T4R TRD Premium with KDS thoughts?

I'm very impressed with the ride quality.

It's a beauty.
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KDSS is worth it. Yes, you are limited to 3' or less of lift, but I can't see why you would need to go higher, especially in light of the IFS, If it was a solid axle front, it would be a different story. My first 4Runner was a gently used '15 with it, and I decided to trade it for a brand new '16, and decided I didn't need it. A year later, I traded the '16 in on an '18, because the KDSS made a huge difference in road manners. I honestly believe it kept me from rolling over when I suddenly swerved to miss a huge chink of blown tire in the road from a semi that was ahead of me due to the fact that it stiffens up and doesn't allow as much body roll.

Warranty: while many parts of the 4Runner's mechanical side are pretty much bullet-proof, the electronics are another story, and they can get expensive. The door lock actuators are a known issue, for one thing.
Check with your insurance company to see if they have a mechanical breakdown coverage. Geico has it, but its a $250 deductible. But one thing it does cover, which the factory warranty doesn't, is rodent damage to wiring, and it's a pretty big issue since manufacturers are using soy based products to make the wire sheathing.
Also, the KDSS system can be expensive to fix out of warranty. Oh, there is also a steering rack issue that some people have that would be a real pain to pay out of pocket for if you happen to have it.
There is a great thread on the forum for the lowest cost factory warranty. And if you buy it, and decide you don't want it, you can get a pro-rated refund. It's way cheaper to buy when the vehicle is still new and low mileage than when it's a few years older, higher mileage. But get the quote for the warranty before you buy, and see if you can get it for the same price, and wrap it up in the cost. It will only raise your payment a few bucks. If the dealership won't price match, just pay out of pocket when you decide to buy it.
 
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This will be my 3rd dark Gray vehicle, but it does look great so i couldn't switch.

KDSS is worth it. Yes, you are limited to 3' or less of lift, but I can't see why you would need to go higher, especially in light of the IFS, If it was a solid axle front, it would be a different story. My first 4Runner was a gently used '15 with it, and I decided to trade it for a brand new '16, and decided I didn't need it. A year later, I traded the '16 in on an '18, because the KDSS made a huge difference in road manners. I honestly believe it kept me from rolling over when I suddenly swerved to miss a huge chink of blown tire in the road from a semi that was ahead of me due to the fact that it stiffens up and doesn't allow as much body roll.

Warranty: while many parts of the 4Runner's mechanical side are pretty much bullet-proof, the electronics are another story, and they can get expensive. The door lock actuators are a known issue, for one thing.
Check with your insurance company to see if they have a mechanical breakdown coverage. Geico has it, but its a $250 deductible. But one thing it does cover, which the factory warranty doesn't, is rodent damage to wiring, and it's a pretty big issue since manufacturers are using soy based products to make the wire sheathing.
Also, the KDSS system can be expensive to fix out of warranty. Oh, there is also a steering rack issue that some people have that would be a real pain to pay out of pocket for if you happen to have it.
There is a great thread on the forum for the lowest cost factory warranty. And if you buy it, and decide you don't want it, you can get a pro-rated refund. It's way cheaper to buy when the vehicle is still new and low mileage than when it's a few years older, higher mileage. But get the quote for the warranty before you buy, and see if you can get it for the same price, and wrap it up in the cost. It will only raise your payment a few bucks. If the dealership won't price match, just pay out of pocket when you decide to buy it.

I passed on the extended warranty. It was well over 4k, and for that amount i could replace actuators, the steering rack and probably all the wiring for that price. lol

It seems the KDSS system would be hard for a dealer to fix and they just replace it from what i have read. Mainly because they rarely have them come in so they have very little hands on fixing it. It is a simple concept.
 
This will be my 3rd dark Gray vehicle, but it does look great so i couldn't switch.



I passed on the extended warranty. It was well over 4k, and for that amount i could replace actuators, the steering rack and probably all the wiring for that price. lol

It seems the KDSS system would be hard for a dealer to fix and they just replace it from what i have read. Mainly because they rarely have them come in so they have very little hands on fixing it. It is a simple concept.
I think you can find the Toyota backed warranty for a fraction of that. You can get online from several Toyota dealers.
 
I think you can find the Toyota backed warranty for a fraction of that. You can get online from several Toyota dealers.

I got a Platinum 10/125k/$0 deductible for under $2k.
Some states don't allow dealers to discount warranties (FL is one, so I buy mine out of state).
If I never need it, great! for $170 a year, I have piece of mind.
If I have to replace 2 door lock actuators after the 3/36K, the plan will have paid for it's self.
 
I got a Platinum 10/125k/$0 deductible for under $2k.

Some states don't allow dealers to discount warranties (FL is one, so I buy mine out of state).

If I never need it, great! for $170 a year, I have piece of mind.

If I have to replace 2 door lock actuators after the 3/36K, the plan will have paid for it's self.


2k is a great deal if that includes electrical items like the actuators. The lowest price I've seen is 3,500.

However you could pick up two actuators for $100 bucks. That's a lot less than $2,000?

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I got a Platinum 10/125k/$0 deductible for under $2k.
Some states don't allow dealers to discount warranties (FL is one, so I buy mine out of state).
If I never need it, great! for $170 a year, I have piece of mind.
If I have to replace 2 door lock actuators after the 3/36K, the plan will have paid for it's self.[/QUOTE I keep forgetting about Florida with their archaic warranty sales laws. I'm still not sure how that is good for the consumer. In theory, you can't buy an internet warranty if you live in Florida.
 
2k is a great deal if that includes electrical items like the actuators. The lowest price I've seen is 3,500.

However you could pick up two actuators for $100 bucks. That's a lot less than $2,000?

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Yea, it is. But what if you have to replace your steering rack for the needle bearing issue at 4 years and 40K?

Yea, warranties are a gamble, but for less than 70 cents a day, it's piece of mind. And with labor running close to $100 an hour, and the cost of parts, I prefer to be safe than sorry. I don't have the specialized tools for some of the things that could break, I don't have the space to do major work, and thanks to the military, I don't have the physical capability to do certain physical tasks any more.

Yea, some people never have an issue. Some people do.
I've never had a house fire, but I have a fire extinguisher and smoke alarms.
No one is saying you have to buy one. But the question came up, and apparently the place you were looking was trying to fleece you. I wouldn't have paid $4k for the warranty either. And I didn't, but I got a good deal that was worth it to me.
 
I got a Platinum 10/125k/$0 deductible for under $2k.
Some states don't allow dealers to discount warranties (FL is one, so I buy mine out of state).
If I never need it, great! for $170 a year, I have piece of mind.
If I have to replace 2 door lock actuators after the 3/36K, the plan will have paid for it's self.

I keep forgetting about Florida with their archaic warranty sales laws. I'm still not sure how that is good for the consumer. In theory, you can't buy an internet warranty if you live in Florida.

It's not good for the consumer.
A family friend is in the car sales biz, does financing, and even though she has to pitch the warranties as part of her job, she told us to skip it and just buy out of state.
As for the legality of buying a warranty out of state, I've never heard that it's an issue.
 
Thanks guys. I'll look into the warrantys at other places.

I'll easily hit 40k in less than 2 years. I couldn't imagine having a rack problem within then.

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It's not good for the consumer.
A family friend is in the car sales biz, does financing, and even though she has to pitch the warranties as part of her job, she told us to skip it and just buy out of state.
As for the legality of buying a warranty out of state, I've never heard that it's an issue.
Interesting. I know of several Acura/Honda dealers that specialize in inexpensive factory backed warranties(Curry, Saccucci) that can't sell to Florida residents.
 
1. Drive one with a KDSS first. Frankly, I don't think its VERY noticeable, but I do get a big silly smile on my face every time I hear it cranking when I turn the vehicle on and off.

I haven't noticed a sound at startup. Is it.. noticeable? What is it like? And when turning it off, is it that sweet sweet, almost turbo blow off like whistle?
 
Also, the KDSS system can be expensive to fix out of warranty.
Isn't the KDSS maintenance free, and also a super low rate of having issues? I searched this forum prior to my purchase and came up with almost no hits on people having problems.
 
I got a Platinum 10/125k/$0 deductible for under $2k.
Some states don't allow dealers to discount warranties (FL is one, so I buy mine out of state).
If I never need it, great! for $170 a year, I have piece of mind.
If I have to replace 2 door lock actuators after the 3/36K, the plan will have paid for it's self.
Can you point me in the direction of where to score said warranty?

Got my front windows tinted and my TRD rims on
Looking good. Any concerns of getting the wobble people here talking about with swapping wheels? Its whats kept me from switching wheels.
 

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