Hot! - AC Recharge?

[agloukhoff]

I was just going off prices from autozone, oreillys, etc. at the time I fixed mine. Also with those you posted, you would need the hose to connect to the system which would cost a little more. I don't know how much those cost. If I was the OP I would make sure there isn't another issue before going and just recharging the system and wasting money.

Actually you may be right in the case of CA where you have to pay extra for 134a due to the fact that it's a GHG and you have to give a deposit and they have to have a self sealing valve rather than the puncture top like I'd get in PA.

No idea how much a "$10 can" goes for in CA. (You can still probably get it shipped from Amazon - but it'd be illegal).

The AC Gauge set can be had for about $30...

So yeah...in CA you may very well be better off just going to the shop.

 

[Jaketino]

Dang, well I know my options now. First thing will be to use that pic above to see what's going on in the system. Thanks!

 

[TheDurk]

Dang, well I know my options now. First thing will be to use that pic above to see what's going on in the system. Thanks!

Just so you know, Toyota recommends a different approach to the evaluation of state of charge(see attachment). Attachment also spells out what to look for if you use a gauge set. I always say: "When in doubt, RTFM."

Also, HarborFreight has a coupon sale on their AC gauge set for $54.99 this month. I really like mine that I got last year. The $30 ones I have seen don't have the charging ability which is key. You need three hoses, blue (low side), red (high side) and yellow (charge). Then you can use it to charge from the cheap cans but you need a can tap, like $5 at Pep Boys and others in the free part of America (not CA).

Don't fall for the 'take it to a shop, FUD.' Do your homework and you can deal with A/C systems. I studied up, bought a gauge set and two-stage vac pump from HF, and last summer I replaced the condenser (victim of a 'coon kill) and receiver-dryer on my son's '99 BMW 323i e36 and did the evac and charge in my driveway. Still blowing cold this summer. I really had to study up on things like the correct oil and quantity to add but I got it done. (Convincing my GF to lend me her digital gram scale to do the charge was also a hard part.)

Some good stuff in this thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/90738-ac-recharge.html

 

[Jaketino]

It seemed cooler today in the truck but it was also about a 10 degree difference from yesterday soooo..... With as little sun as we get I won't sweat too much about it. Pun intended.

 

[snow junky]

find the leak, 134a isnt a consumable. if its low there is a leak.

fill it with 300psi of nitrogen and spray with soapy water and look for bubbles

after its leak is fixed, replace filterdryer and vac system down, weigh in new charge, cant be 1oz too little or 1oz too much or the performance will decline

 

[nissanh]

Have you ever cleaned the front AC condenser (located in front of the radiator)? When the engine is cold and not running, I cover the alternator and apply high pressure water through a garden hose from inside the engine bay out (keep the stream of water 90 degrees to the radiator fins to avoid fins getting bent). This process removes dirt that is trapped in the condenser. I do this before summer comes in. Once you do it inside-out, then I'll do outside -in washing. See whether this helps before adding more freon. The glass located in the filter tells freon level. Little bubbling is OK, but no too much.

 

[Jaketino]

Looked at the glass last night and didn't see anything. Could be a leak so I might as well just take it in to the shop. Thanks for the help!

 

[nissanh]

If the glass is clear, it can be two things: Freon is full or totally out.

 

[Kryptoroxx]

29 Palms ..... My sympathies dude. That must be rough.

Eh it is what it is. There are good things about being stationed out here. I can see the stars and it's peaceful....except when they are firing artillery lol.

 

[pluton]

You can also use a thermometer to measure the outside air, then stick it in the vent and measure that. The A/C should reduce the air temp by roughly 40ºF.
As the others have said, if the 134a is low that means it leaked out. It's not supposed to leak at all.

 

[TheDurk]

You can also use a thermometer to measure the outside air, then stick it in the vent and measure that. The A/C should reduce the air temp by roughly 40ºF.
As the others have said, if the 134a is low that means it leaked out. It's not supposed to leak at all.

You can be a little more precise than that. You only get 40°F at 30% humidity. I use the attached chart. If you can get within two degrees of the R-134a discharge temp. for the ambient temp. and humidity, you gotta figure system is in pretty good shape for its age. I have been able to get it spot on these last two summers.