How bad is it?

[03blkrunner]

Hey guys, kinda open ended question but hoping for some outside perspective. Short intro. Have a 2003 Sport V8 4x4. It only has 149k miles and I picked it up in 2007 from TX. It's been a great vehicle but because of some great company benefits give me a great deal on a truck it's not my primary car anymore. Now I'm thinking because even pre-covid my mileage was very low (maybe <8k a year across all my vehicles now) I might just drop the company truck and go back to using my 4Runner since it's still a net down in monthly costs, body and interior is in good shape, it has more room than my truck in the back seat for my twin toddlers, and still powerful enough to pull our camper but definitely needs work.

Over the years I've obviously not kept up on the rust prevention though I think we can all agree it's a hard battle. Even coming from TX and now in KY which doesn't really get that bad in the winter to need salt that much so the level of rust is really surprising to me. I grew up in Maine so I'm quite familiar with dealing with rust and I would never had expected this bad given the area. Now my truck looks like the pictures attached.

I'm trying to decide where I stand. Everything can be fixed of course but is it worth it? I'd hate to get rid of it because it truly has been a great reliable vehicle and the closest Toyota offers to replace it is a GX but with the aforementioned toddlers and all the other burdens of life being able to dump a ton of time into it will be a huge challenge for me.

My current plan would be to just buy basically all new front suspension (lower control arms, new knuckles with hubs, hopefully salvage the CVs that have torn boot now, ball joints, Upper arms?), and then swap out the now completely blown X-REAS. So no matter what, I'm gonna need several grand to get it back to "tip top" condition but will that be fruitful given the rot already forming? Body is in good shape though the plastic wheel arch and hood scoop paint are bleaching and cracking.

I know this group would probably go to war to save a 4Runner but I might need the push to make a logical, not emotional, decision to keep or let go.

Thanks,

 

[rdruss]

For about $700 you can do new Bils 4600 and FJ springs front and rear.
You can replace your LCA's with new from 1Aauto for about $180/ea. No doubt you will have to cut your adjust bolts off on LCA to remove so plan on about $100 for new bolts/cams etc.
Your front backing plates are nasty but I would wire brush and sand and repaint if there's enough left of them. Radiator support looks bad but if it still solid, knock the rust off with scraper/wire brush/sand paper and repaint if it's solid. Do same with frame and crossmembers where necessary.
Don't know what your UCA's look like but you decide, but when you do the front suspension plan on doing the top mounts too, another $50 or so. For less than $2K you can be in a lot better shape.
149K miles is nothing!
1Aauto has stock replacement UCA too for a lot less than OEM, or go big time and get aftermarket; SPC, JBA,??
My $.02.

 

[xtremewlr]

Salvage what you can, junk the rest. I wouldn't even bother trying to save that thing.

Sorry, but that's junk to me. Way too bad on rust.

 

[montijo505]

Honestly doesn’t look that bad. Most looks like surface rust except maybe the radiator support. The dust shields are super thin and infamous for crumbling off these cars but are cheap and easy to replace.


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[Direwolf82]

Honestly doesn’t look that bad. Most looks like surface rust except maybe the radiator support. The dust shields are super thin and infamous for crumbling off these cars but are cheap and easy to replace.


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Agree, looks mostly superficial.
OP, can you stab a screwdriver through anything important? Like the frame or suspension brackets?
I grew up in CT and that looks better than most of the junk I drove when I lived up there. To get a more realistic idea of what's happening just hit it with a wire wheel and see how deep the cancer goes, then you can make a better decision and we can give hopefully better advice.
Naval jelly and rustoleum have saved many a vehicle from the scrapyard.



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[Syr4RinNC]

Salvage what you can, junk the rest. I wouldn't even bother trying to save that thing.

Sorry, but that's junk to me. Way too bad on rust.

Haha - must be nice to have that perspective on cars.

03 Blkrunner - I think youre pretty much dead on - those are some crusty knuckles and that radiator support is getting there, but other than that, looks comparable to my 08 now. The frame looks pretty solid - other than the common superficial and weld joint rust.

Replace what you can afford. Keep an eye on that radiator support. I think youve got a long time before the rust will be an issue.

If you ever decide its more of a headache than its worth or something worries you - you should be able to sell because that v8 has value still

PS my 03 rusted through the radiator support and the frame developed holes along the passenger after 15 years and 150k

 

[03blkrunner]

Thanks guys for the responses.

I agree that for the most part on the frame the rust seems to be "advance superficial" in most areas. I haven't found a spot I could poke a screwdriver trough on the frame and the radiator support actually feels solid just looks terrifying. And the front skid plate was completely cooked.

I like the pricing at the 1A Auto but what's everyone's luck with them? Even though my truck looks rough the front end is still amazingly solid given the age and miles so any replacement I'm hoping to get that level of quality. As far as going extreme, want yes, need, maybe not so much. I'd love to do some small off roading / over landing but I put that in the not as likely situation for a while.

Another questions since talking about parts and since I'd really need to take all the links out to attack some of the rust, anyone have experience replacing the bushings in the rear links?

Thanks

 

[riverwolf]

As for the C-V axles...rather than try to reboot, it's less work and a whole lot cleaner just to get something like the NAPA HD units (higher quality boots) "new" not "remanufactured" that include a lifetime warranty...really Cardone units per the warranty card in the box. They're less than $100 each, IIRC. I swapped out my original unit for the standard booted NAPA unit (the HD was out of stock) a few years ago and without doing a metallurgical analysis, I couldn't find any difference between the factory C-V and the NAPA unit.

Good luck...like others, I'd probably try to save her. Of course, I've had my '03 V8 since new and I also poured several thousand dollars into a used E46 convertible over the years due to a combination of "quality" German engineering and previous owners who apparently bought a car that they couldn't or wouldn't pay for the maintenance required by "the ultimate driving machine".

 

[03blkrunner]

As for the C-V axles...rather than try to reboot, it's less work and a whole lot cleaner just to get something like the NAPA HD units (higher quality boots) "new" not "remanufactured" that include a lifetime warranty...really Cardone units per the warranty card in the box. They're less than $100 each, IIRC. I swapped out my original unit for the standard booted NAPA unit (the HD was out of stock) a few years ago and without doing a metallurgical analysis, I couldn't find any difference between the factory C-V and the NAPA unit.

Thanks Riverwolf. I'll check those out. I've always heard best to keep the OEM if can but they might need to be replaced this time. Did outer boots a long time ago and not sure how long the inners have been torn. Again though, I'm not doing anything extreme so I'm sure the NAPA parts will be just fine.

I think you also hit on the emotional factor. I got this used but it was my first real purchase out of college. It's really been just a solid vehicle and I've always thought that they could be the kind of car you just keep because they're reliable and I think have aged well. Maybe not Wagoneer level but in that same vein.

 

[Piggity]

Like someone already said, just buy the A1 Auto control arms top and bottom in the front. Go to town with a wire brush on the frame and then hit it with something like I posted below. It's a lot of time but it will look pretty decent in the end.


Fluid Film Black(R) Aerosol & Non-Aerosol | Fluid Film

 

[MikeinNH67]

Why do you think it needs so many new suspension components? Yeah the backing plates are toast but they are way better than mine were when I replaced them in the fall. $100 for both sides seeing OEM only sells them, I replaced them when I did the front wheel bearings. You can replace the struts with almost new takeoffs from someone upgrading their Gen5 with new assemblies, super cheap Ebay route and huge upgrade in ride quality. On the frame & suspension scale, scrape it and have it oiled inside and out and that will make it look so much better underneath. Depending on how long you want to keep the truck would be the deciding factor on aftermarket over OEM parts. If more than 2 years then go OEM in my opinion. Lifetime warranty means less to me if I have to replace the parts every other year. Hard to beat an OEM part that lasts over 10 years and 150k miles. Once strut assemblies are replaced, if you still have a clunk check the sway bar bushings as I bet they are toast. Another cheap easy fix.

 

[03blkrunner]

Why do you think it needs so many new suspension components? Yeah the backing plates are toast but they are way better than mine were when I replaced them in the fall. $100 for both sides seeing OEM only sells them, I replaced them when I did the front wheel bearings. You can replace the struts with almost new takeoffs from someone upgrading their Gen5 with new assemblies, super cheap Ebay route and huge upgrade in ride quality. On the frame & suspension scale, scrape it and have it oiled inside and out and that will make it look so much better underneath. Depending on how long you want to keep the truck would be the deciding factor on aftermarket over OEM parts. If more than 2 years then go OEM in my opinion. Lifetime warranty means less to me if I have to replace the parts every other year. Hard to beat an OEM part that lasts over 10 years and 150k miles. Once strut assemblies are replaced, if you still have a clunk check the sway bar bushings as I bet they are toast. Another cheap easy fix.

Honestly, it's more that I know once I start breaking all the components apart something always happens and instead of spending hours to remove a bolt that broke off or something like that I'd rather just yank off and put new in. I only say that because it happening pretty much every time I have to work on something! More money but less time and at least parts with 0 miles vs 150k. Though I do like your 5th gen parts suggestion because at heart I'm cheap.

Also, where did you get hubs?

 

[MikeinNH67]

Honestly, it's more that I know once I start breaking all the components apart something always happens and instead of spending hours to remove a bolt that broke off or something like that I'd rather just yank off and put new in. I only say that because it happening pretty much every time I have to work on something! More money but less time and at least parts with 0 miles vs 150k. Though I do like your 5th gen parts suggestion because at heart I'm cheap.

Also, where did you get hubs?

I went with the BECK/ARNLEY bearing setup only and pressed them in myself as they have the better Japanese Koyo bearing and come with the seals. Everywhere I read said Koyo or NSK stamped, pass on the Chinese ones. Hard to find the hub assemblies with anything but no name bearings.

Here's a couple examples of the spring assemblies cheap and OEM. All that is needed is to grind about 1/8" off the lower eyelet.
2011 - 2020 TOYOTA 4RUNNER OEM FRONT & REAR SHOCK / STRUT SET #P59-6 | eBay
TOYOTA 4RUNNER STRUT ABSORBER OEM 2010-2019 with front and rear coils included. | eBay
2020 TOYOTA 4RUNNER DRIVER AND PASSENGER FRONT STRUT ASSEMBLY FITS 2010-2020 | eBay

 

[xtremewlr]

Haha - must be nice to have that perspective on cars.

03 Blkrunner - I think youre pretty much dead on - those are some crusty knuckles and that radiator support is getting there, but other than that, looks comparable to my 08 now. The frame looks pretty solid - other than the common superficial and weld joint rust.

Replace what you can afford. Keep an eye on that radiator support. I think youve got a long time before the rust will be an issue.

If you ever decide its more of a headache than its worth or something worries you - you should be able to sell because that v8 has value still

PS my 03 rusted through the radiator support and the frame developed holes along the passenger after 15 years and 150k

I've always been West Coast and don't have to deal with rust. What looks good to you guys looks like dogshit to me and I wouldn't touch it. No need since I have rust free cars to pick from out here.

 

[rwh963]

i thought kentucky was a southern state!

 

[FordF150]

I have 2005 with 150,000 miles and some rust - not nearly as bad as above.

Owned mine since brand new!

These trucks can run like new for 30 years (I'm thinking). Makes no sense to sell it.:target:

 

[Warwicke36]

My 04 looked similar when I bought it for short money. Hit it with a slag hammer all over the frame and sub frames. Patch any spots that are weak. Mine needed a little help where the body mount meets the radiator support (you're may be similar by the look of it) ... as other have mentioned go at it with a wire wheel (works best on a drill IMO) use a hammer to knock off any big chunks... then treat it. I used John Deere blitz black frame paint, but Rustoleum and others work fine too. When I was done I coated it all in fluid film. We had a semi harsh New England winter and it still looks great. I have a couple spots to touch up but aside from that it looks just like it did when I was done with it.

 

[djpope09]

My 04 looked similar when I bought it for short money. Hit it with a slag hammer all over the frame and sub frames. Patch any spots that are weak. Mine needed a little help where the body mount meets the radiator support (you're may be similar by the look of it) ... as other have mentioned go at it with a wire wheel (works best on a drill IMO) use a hammer to knock off any big chunks... then treat it. I used John Deere blitz black frame paint, but Rustoleum and others work fine too. When I was done I coated it all in fluid film. We had a semi harsh New England winter and it still looks great. I have a couple spots to touch up but aside from that it looks just like it did when I was done with it.

Do you have a write-up or pics of the work you did on the radiator support? Mine is pretty crusty and I'm thinking it will need some work soon.

 

[Warwicke36]

Do you have a write-up or pics of the work you did on the radiator support? Mine is pretty crusty and I'm thinking it will need some work soon.

Let me see if I can dig some pics up. I can get some after shot's and talk you through what I did.

However, they do sell that entire piece and I recommend you buy it and weld it in vs. making one. I was lucky enough it was just where it meets the actual frame that needed repair. If you need to plate over the frame where the body mounts are its pretty easy if you know how to weld.

 

[03blkrunner]

Thanks everyone for responses. I think I'm gonna give it a go of repairs.

I'm sure there will be more questions but I'll get the answers here.