How concerned should I be - falling apart?

[jrandom]

Part 18

Front splash guard/skid plate

Under Cover - 51405-60210

Radiator Support for 2010 Toyota 4Runner | Camelback Toyota Parts

 

[zonzin]

If that is just the skid plate, it's time to order a set of RCI aluminum skids. No more rust issues.


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[t0y0ta4R]

So I noticed the black plastic 'scoop' was hanging down a bit today. I got under to see what the issue was (missing clip) and saw this.....how concerned should I be? It was just at the dealer for an oil change and 100k service and they did not say a word about this.....

Yikes, it wouldn't surprise me to find out the frame had rusted. My entire frame was replaced on my 2005 Tacoma a few years back which made no financial sense to me. Either way, keep is posted on the outcome.

 

[jp.vegas]

It's the front skid plate. There's nothing supported by it. You can purchase a new one and bolt it on; good as new.

However, that being said, it can also be used as the front center jacking point and that's clearly rotted away so I'd stay away from that with a jack as it will just fold in. To jack up in the center you'll need to remove that rusted piece and go to the cross member underneath it..

 

[49Runner]

Shocked that the dealer wouldn’t have reported this to you... that’s sloppy and irresponsible of them.

 

[<<<<]

That plate is not from your vehicle judging by condition of metal surrounding that rusty plate. Also what is that plastic part attached to the rusty front plate? I don't think it is stock. I'd go back to dealer you did last oil change and ask some serious questions!

 

[jrandom]

That plate is not from your vehicle judging by condition of metal surrounding that rusty plate. Also what is that plastic part attached to the rusty front plate? I don't think it is stock. I'd go back to dealer you did last oil change and ask some serious questions!

Look at the part schematic I posted. The plastic piece you are referring to is number 22, it channels air into the opening on part 18, the skid plate. Looking closely at the picture you quoted you can see the wire mesh that helps keep larger debris out of the opening, that hasn’t changed in later models. Newer models no longer have that shroud.

But yeah the thing looks like the paint/coating was sand blasted and began to rust.

 

[<<<<]

This is what 2010-2013 front skid plate should look like, no plastic scoops. If there is a scoop out there I can see use from splash only and no real protection:

 

[jrandom]

Right, OP’s is a 2010, first model year.

Good ref pic!

Here is the plastic part in question, Intake Duct 52812-35010

2010-2019 Toyota 4Runner Intake Duct 52812-35010 | Camelback Toyota Parts

You can even see the existing mounting holes on the skid plate for it in the pic you posted.

 

[5thToy]

That plate is not from your vehicle judging by condition of metal surrounding that rusty plate. Also what is that plastic part attached to the rusty front plate? I don't think it is stock. I'd go back to dealer you did last oil change and ask some serious questions!

I think it is likely that particular skid plate had a manufacturing defect in the form of a metal surface treatment/finish issue which left it vulnerable to corrosion. I also think the plastic air dam channeled water in to the most affected area though the skid plate grid.

 

[MtlT4R]

Same deal up here in Quebec. I tried touching up with rustoleum on my 2011 and had the front skid sand blasted and repainted on my 2013. The rust creeps back the following season with all the salt they use here.

 

[kenwilliams0803]

Mine has a plastic scoop and it's a 2012.

 

[phillyd2]

Mine's only got 2500 miles. Could the factory skid be removed and coated with something?

Not worth it. What would be worth it is to remove the bolts and coat them with anti seize for when you do need to do something.

 

[jhguth]

The stock skids are bad about scooping and collecting debris on top and it's hard to fully clean them off. I bet you guys in salt heavy states are having salt collecting there (maybe being collected by mud or debris stuck on top of the skid) and are having rust issues because of that. When you clean and spray off the underside of your vehicle you'll have to pay extra attention to clean off above the skids.


The skid isnt important, but I'd remove it and check the important stuff, and be ready with a wire brush and POR-15 to clean hp any rust that was starting on important things above the stock skid

 

[jrandom]

The stock skids are bad about scooping and collecting debris on top and it's hard to fully clean them off. I bet you guys in salt heavy states are having salt collecting there (maybe being collected by mud or debris stuck on top of the skid) and are having rust issues because of that. When you clean and spray off the underside of your vehicle you'll have to pay extra attention to clean off above the skids.

I have two sets of stock sitting in my garage and one set of full RCI AU on my truck. Muck hangs on the stock covers like flies on horse sh!t, aftermarkets, not so much, at all really. I worry more about the sh!tty mung pockets in the fender wells, particularly the forward of the rear wheel, that cavity the plastic creates holds an ungodly amount of road salt/slurry/crud.

 

[westwind77]

Wow, thank you for all the responses so far! I just returned from the long weekend and was able to review the posts.

I e-mailed the manager of the dealership the photos and a quick note about my recent service and it not being mentioned late on Friday, and I received an almost immediate response with an apology and a follow up for later.

Their service manage also called me Monday to discuss the issue (have not spoken to either yet).

I will say the condition of the skid plate does not match the rest of the truck, which does make me wonder if it was just poor materials to start with. Mine was one of the 1st 700 to be produced.

The OEM replacement part seems to be a reasonable/cheap cost, but the issue is going to be the labor depending on how frozen the bolts are.

I plan to trade this in within the next couple of years so I am not sure I want to drop money on high quality aftermarket parts that I will not 'enjoy' for long.

I plan to call the dealership this week to figure out what they give me for options/costs.

 

[badattitude]

They are removing the skid plate to change the oil filter. So..hope the skid plate bolts aren't too bad. They must have been removed recently. A TRD Aluminum skid is $350 online.

 

[Reinout]

Having been in bike manufacturing if we see rust on ONE component it's most likely a material defect (or coating). If there's rust all over the bike it's user neglect as the materials will come from a bunch of suppliers and they are not likely to ALL have the same material defect.

In the OPs case this surely appears to be a material or coating defect regardless of it being a sub-frame or a splash guard.

As far as selling it in the next few years: I'd replace the guard either way. It would bother me knowing that's under my car.

And how dare the dealership NOT mention, "Hey, your splash guard is rusting away. We have some options to replace that for you." That would have been what is more commonly known as "customer service". But dealers aren't really known for that.

 

[badattitude]

I use Fluid Film to control rust. Its not paint but a waxy anti corrosive coating that prevents rust. Just spray it on anything that starts to look rusty. Smells great too.

 

[SlvrRnnR]

Extremely accelerated deterioration on the skid plate. Maybe lack or improper coating/painting. BUT they do rust quickly. On my 11 FJ Cruiser the skid plate was the first to see rust and I fluid filmed often from new. The steel was "pancaked" (layers) and debris must of got in the crevices and it started to expand over the years. Soaking that area in oil helped for a few years.

The new (18) TRD ORP got a TRD aluminum skid plate and extra sprayings of Woolwax (HD Fluid Film) prior to the winter. Its still a constant battle here in MA