How do I change the clutch fluid? (W59)

Pyral

Member
I have a W59 manual transmission and I want to flush out the nasty looking DOT 3 brake fluid and put new fluid in. There are no videos on my particular transmission, and very few in general, my FSM is vague about flushing out the system.

Can I use this video for a 2011 Tacoma?

Where exactly should I bleed the fluid from?
 
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I have a W59 manual transmission and I want to flush out the nasty looking DOT 3 brake fluid and put new fluid in. There are no videos on my particular transmission, and very few in general, my FSM is vague about flushing out the system.

Can I use this video for a 2011 Tacoma?

Where exactly should I bleed the fluid from?
Have you ever bled brakes before?

EDIT: I tried to watch the video but couldn't make it past 7 seconds.
 
Not much to it. Find the bleeder screw on the clutch slave cylinder - that's where the fluid will come out. Otherwise, it is just like bleeding brakes, but with the clutch pedal. You can use a pressure bleeder, vacuum bleeder or the two-person method. Even if you use the two person method, it is nice to have the auto-filler bottle from a vacuum bleeder to make sure the master cylinder stays full.

-Charlie
 
Not much to it. Find the bleeder screw on the clutch slave cylinder - that's where the fluid will come out.

As Charlie says, it's not different than bleeding the brakes.

I did it when I had to replace the (why is it pink?) slave cylinder though (because bleeding wasn't done enough prior to that failure point I guess).

You pour the fluid into any DOT3/4 brake fluid into the reservoir in the engine bay and with a helper pressing the pedal you give the command from below.... ready... press... release (where the helper doesn't release until you've closed the fitting).

Best if you have about an 18 inch length (or thereabouts) of clear plastic tubing to fit over the fitting and then into a jar where you're in such a contorted position it's best to just drill a hole in the top of a heavy jar that won't easily tip over. Also you will likely spill depending on how sloooooooooowly the helper pumps the pedal so put a few rags around the reservoir and instruct your helper to be "firm but gentle" with the pedal.

I have used pressure bleeders for other vehicles's brakes and found them to be more trouble than the helper usually is. :)
Also check the pedal return mechanism carefully as the springs are downright diabolical.
 
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Prefer the Shade Tree mechanic method.


Get yourself a disposable turkey baster and container. Suck out all that bad fluid and replace with fresh.

Be careful of drips as it's caustic to paint.

Drive around a bit. Next week repeat process.

Three cycles and your pretty much equivalent to a pedal/bleed screw flush.

Advantage not messing around with rusty frozen bleed screws and less likely for air contamination.

Works great on master cylinder too.

Enjoy!
 
Prefer the Shade Tree mechanic method.


Get yourself a disposable turkey baster and container. Suck out all that bad fluid and replace with fresh.

Be careful of drips as it's caustic to paint.

Drive around a bit. Next week repeat process.

Three cycles and your pretty much equivalent to a pedal/bleed screw flush.

Advantage not messing around with rusty frozen bleed screws and less likely for air contamination.

Works great on master cylinder too.

Enjoy!
That method gets a good amount of the fluid, but never gets all the fluid especially the fluid that is in the calipers or slave cylinder.
 
That method gets a good amount of the fluid, but never gets all the fluid especially the fluid that is in the calipers or slave cylinder.

Exactly. That first squirt or two out of the caliper or slave cylinder is usually dirty,
 

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