How does the Parking Brake work?

[ShooterMcGavin]

I have never had a working parking brake since I've owned my 4Runner. I am about to perform a rear axle seal replacement (very needed) and then replace everything in the rear drum brakes. BUT, I'm still not sure that will give me a good parking brake (both sides). I pull the lever and the cable tightens up nice and firm on the driver's side. The cable to the passenger side remains slack. Should there be rotation in the contraption on the driver's side, to allow the cable to become pulled on the passenger side? What exactly do I need to do?

 

[I_bRAD]

I have never had a working parking brake since I've owned my 4Runner. I am about to perform a rear axle seal replacement (very needed) and then replace everything in the rear drum brakes. BUT, I'm still not sure that will give me a good parking brake (both sides). I pull the lever and the cable tightens up nice and firm on the driver's side. The cable to the passenger side remains slack. Should there be rotation in the contraption on the driver's side, to allow the cable to become pulled on the passenger side? What exactly do I need to do?

I just finished axle seals and am in the process of installing a new parking brake cable!

Sounds to me like your LH bellcrank might be seized. Does it move freely? You can buy that as an assembly, but you can also buy just the pin for a couple of bucks. Hammer out the old one. Wire brush it down and maybe paint it if needed. I did that a couple of years ago and no problems since. (until my cable itself started to freeze on cold days- there must be a leak in it somewhere)

 

[TheDurk]

Are you talking about the little cable inside the drum not getting tight, or the cable from the driver side to the passenger side? If the former, then the above is good advice. If the latter, then your issue is probably the equalizer pivot, which is mounted on the diff about eight inches from the driver side drum. That needs to be able to swing from left to right for tension to be passed to the passenger side. If it is frozen, only the driver side will work.

See the vertical cylinder where the cables come together? The pivot holds that to the diff.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

It's the cable from the driver's side to the passenger side not getting tight. It must be that pivot that's frozen like you say. I'll have to try freeing it up, starting with PB Blaster. Does it need to swing smoothly and freely? Should I probably replace parts to make it function well? Which parts would you recommend replacing?

Thanks.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

If I understand correctly, the cable from the hand brake tightens the cable to the driver's side. Then that cylinder moves on its "arm" and pulls tension on the passenger side brake. I hope I got that right.

So that arm is not pivoting at all for me. I'll have to free it up and maybe replace those parts so it can move.

 

[JerkyDrewster]

I had this issue on my first one a couple years ago. I took apart the assembly and found a ton of rust on the ID of the bushings and the bolt. I used a small wire wheel to clean both of them up. I put it back together with some antiseize, and it worked great!

 

[nobb]

Make sure to pay attention to the little boot on the end of the cable. When these tear, gunk starts getting into the cable and might seize it. It's a good idea to keep the cable and bell cranks working because they could seize in a way that causes the shoe to lockup inside the drum which then overheats and eventually leads to axle seal failure. I wouldnt be surprised if this is the primary reason for axle seal failures.

 

[mtbtim]

Hey Shooter,

These videos might help you out.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AVhSDnw2ugo" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IJkVEBYSecs" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rnyK3V-OGn4" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Thanks for the advice! That picture is very helpful Drewster. That's exactly what I will need to do.

Tim, I love your videos. I have been watching the rear seal replacement one many times. I'm glad you have a rear brake video.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Does anyone know the Toyota part number for the bushing on that parking brake pivot and the bolt that holds it? I'm not sure if that is all I would need to replace to get it moving again?

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I replaced the bolt for that pivot and the bushings. I finished it off with a hardware store 8mm 1.25 thread pitch bolt, split washer, washer, and loc-tite. I put grease all over the pivot and bushings. It rotates, but it is stiff so the passenger bell crank doesn't get pulled very much. Should I NOT have any grease in that joint?