How many miles and what engine oil do you use?

[firebirdguy]

leaked from where?

 

[CookieRoe]

Been using Mobile1 since it came out in the early 90s and still am. However with my 4R, I switched to another weight: to 0W20 about 2 years ago, but have recently "returned" to 5W30 (what it says on the oil cap). Anyway, no problems whatsoever. I switched over to the thinner for better protection at cold start up, but seeing that the 1GRFE pretty much last forever on the recommended oil, I went back. Anyway, 170K on the clock now.

 

[GupsT4R]

220kms and whatever synthetic is on sale at the time...usually Pennzoil Syth

 

[AE1M]

Hello everyone just on here because I was interested in what everyone was up to w their high mileage 4th gens lol. I'm approaching 190k miles on mine and it's about time I change the oil soon and was wondering what you guys were using. Since 168k I've been going to Jiffy Lube, they use pennzoil, and now at 180k and up I've been working at a shop and doing my own oil changes. I've always used reg conventional but recently been mixing some full synthetic in w mine. They use Valvoline at the shop I work at. What do you guys use and how many miles are on your 4Runner? I have the V6 03 Sprt edition btw.

Have 140K miles, since new I have used only conventional 10W30 oil and the OEM Toyota filter. Usually Pennzoil, the nice yellow 5QT jug is easiest to pour IMO. Change every 5K miles, so easy with filter on top and 18" tire clearance to drain. Filters from Amazon about $7 shipped with Prime no tax.

In the 11 years, 140K miles on my '08 6 cyl I have never even added a drop between changes.

Why make it any more complicated?

 

[radlynx]

I have 145000 miles. I change oil every 1 year or 10000-12000 miles. I have the 2005 sr5 v6. Noproblem so far.

 

[jambone]

I bought my '06 SR5 V8 4wd 7.5 years ago with about 98k miles on it, and I've used Mobil1 synthetic 5W-30 for every oil change since then. I use either a Wix or a Mobil1 filter, and I change the oil & filter every 5k miles or so. Probably overkill, but I'm at 193k and counting. I put Mobil1 synthetic in the differentials and transfer case too. Drained and filled the transmission fluid at about 185k, and I've had no issues with the drivetrain and no leaks.

Conventional would probably work just as well, but I'm willing to spend a few extra bucks in the hopes of keeping this thing on the road to at least 250-300k miles.

 

[P_nlsn]

300k Miles / Valvoline Max Life High Mileage

My 2003 4runner has got 300k miles on it and I use Valvoline MaxLife High Mileage oil

 

[firebirdguy]

Have 140K miles, since new I have used only conventional 10W30 oil and the OEM Toyota filter. Usually Pennzoil, the nice yellow 5QT jug is easiest to pour IMO. Change every 5K miles, so easy with filter on top and 18" tire clearance to drain. Filters from Amazon about $7 shipped with Prime no tax.

In the 11 years, 140K miles on my '08 6 cyl I have never even added a drop between changes.

Why make it any more complicated?

why are you using 10w30 when it calls for 5w30?

 

[kcdehart]

why are you using 10w30 when it calls for 5w30?

Can't speak for him, but I use 10w-30 in the summer because it thins out less than 5w-30. If I have an oil change in the winter I'll typically use 5w-30 to try to limit startup wear.

The owner's manual has a range of oil weights to use for certain temperature ranges.

 

[T4R03]

why not? Change the diff fluid. Nothing bad can come from that. Only good. you will be protecting your diffs and might pick up a MPG or 2.

as for transmission....i had 195k when i did my first flush. Like drain it all out of the lines that run to the radiator. 6k miles later i have no issues. I will say i didnt notice any benfits or smoother shifting but i never had hard shifts. Its just a peace of mind for me that the transmission will last a little longer. I personally plan to run this car to 300k before i consider selling it.

I've heard way too many horror stories of changing tranny fluid on high mileage vehicles and as for the diff I have just never changed and living in Chicago that mf is rusty as all hell. The plug is def not going to budge.

 

[firebirdguy]

Can't speak for him, but I use 10w-30 in the summer because it thins out less than 5w-30. If I have an oil change in the winter I'll typically use 5w-30 to try to limit startup wear.

The owner's manual has a range of oil weights to use for certain temperature ranges.

how does a 10/30 thin out less than a 5/30?

& the owners manual, at least for my 2008, shows 1 weight of oil... 5/30 for ALL temps from -20f to 100+f.

there is no benefit or reason to use a 10/30 oil in these engines.

 

[phatcheeks]

119k. still on original engine oil. :guitar3:

 

[kcdehart]

how does a 10/30 thin out less than a 5/30?

My bad, they have the same viscosity at running temps, so thin out isn't really the right term here. I was thinking of my Volvo which I run 5w40 in instead of 5w30, as it sees some hot conditions with the turbo.

I'd personally rather run a thicker oil as long as it's not too cold out. Especially with my engine getting close to 200k miles. Clearances are gonna be getting ever-so-slightly larger, so I'm worried about oil pressure being lower on startup with thinner oils (especially when it's pushing 100 degrees in the summer here). Maybe I'm just paranoid because I've owned vehicles known for spinning bearings, but I prefer the heavier weights.

 

[firebirdguy]

My bad, they have the same viscosity at running temps, so thin out isn't really the right term here. I was thinking of my Volvo which I run 5w40 in instead of 5w30, as it sees some hot conditions with the turbo.

I'd personally rather run a thicker oil as long as it's not too cold out. Especially with my engine getting close to 200k miles. Clearances are gonna be getting ever-so-slightly larger, so I'm worried about oil pressure being lower on startup with thinner oils (especially when it's pushing 100 degrees in the summer here). Maybe I'm just paranoid because I've owned vehicles known for spinning bearings, but I prefer the heavier weights.

ok, was just curious what you meant by that. & just an FYI, but thicker oil doesn't help anything related to heat or turbos... oils main job besides lubrication is cooling internal engine parts & a thinner oil flows better than a thick oil, therefore cooling better.

also, thicker oil isnt better on start up, same thing applies for flow on start up, it takes a lot longer for a thicker oil to get pumped through the engine at start up, cold or hot. dont get too hung up on pressure, pressure is not what protects engine parts, its the flow & ability of the oil to get in & out of tight clearances, pressure is just a factor of the pump vs bearing clearances & i doubt your clearances are worn so much that you need thicker oil. a standard rule is 10psi for every 1000 rpms which im sure you have, so at start up you want flow more than psi.

think of it this way, you can try to pump oil through a very small hole like a syringe needle, it will have very high pressure because it can barely get out of the opening, but the volume of oil will be very very minimal.... same applies to an engine, you want a minimum psi to keep metal parts from touching, but just as important or more, is having enough flow/volume. either oil will work ok & 10/30 wont blow up the engine or anything... but if your oil pressure light isn't coming on with 5/30, its probably better for the engine to run the weight toyota calls for. thicker oil isnt better if its not called for or needed.

 

[kcdehart]

ok, was just curious what you meant by that. & just an FYI, but thicker oil doesn't help anything related to heat or turbos... oils main job besides lubrication is cooling internal engine parts & a thinner oil flows better than a thick oil, therefore cooling better.

also, thicker oil isnt better on start up, same thing applies for flow on start up, it takes a lot longer for a thicker oil to get pumped through the engine at start up, cold or hot. dont get too hung up on pressure, pressure is not what protects engine parts, its the flow & ability of the oil to get in & out of tight clearances, pressure is just a factor of the pump vs bearing clearances & i doubt your clearances are worn so much that you need thicker oil.

a standard rule is 10psi for every 1000 rpms, so at start up you want flow more than psi. think of it this way, you can try to pump oil through a very small hole like a syringe needle, it will have very high pressure because it can barely get out of the opening, but the volume of oil will be very very minimal.... same applies to an engine, you want a minimum psi to keep metal parts from touching, but just as important or more, is having enough flow/volume. either oil will work ok & 10/30 wont blow up the engine or anything... but if your oil pressure light isn't coming on with 5/30, its probably better for the engine to run the weight toyota calls for. thicker oil isnt better if its not called for or needed.

I mention the turbo as it causes the engine bay to be at much higher operating temps, which are (from what I understand) when you want to have heavier weight oils. As the '30' may turn into a '20' at the higher operating temps, whereas the '40' will lubricate like a '30' would at lower temps (if that makes any sense).

I follow what you're saying about flow, and it's good to know. Sounds like the goal is finding the sweet spot, which I'm sure manufacturers do, provided the vehicle is being used within typical circumstances.

I'm curious now why so many people recommended running oils like 15w-50 and 20w-50 when I had my 3000GT. Possibly just because it was an older engine with looser clearances. Or because they were worried about pressure once it warmed up more than initial flow (that engine heated up *quick* with 2 turbos. And the rear cylinder bank area reached temps over 1000F when driving moderately hard). I'd imagine they'd run something like a 10w-50 if it was easily accessible.

 

[firebirdguy]

I mention the turbo as it causes the engine bay to be at much higher operating temps, which are (from what I understand) when you want to have heavier weight oils. As the '30' may turn into a '20' at the higher operating temps, whereas the '40' will lubricate like a '30' would at lower temps (if that makes any sense).

I follow what you're saying about flow, and it's good to know. Sounds like the goal is finding the sweet spot, which I'm sure manufacturers do, provided the vehicle is being used within typical circumstances.

I'm curious now why so many people recommended running oils like 15w-50 and 20w-50 when I had my 3000GT. Possibly just because it was an older engine with looser clearances. Or because they were worried about pressure once it warmed up more than initial flow (that engine heated up *quick* with 2 turbos. And the rear cylinder bank area reached temps over 1000F when driving moderately hard). I'd imagine they'd run something like a 10w-50 if it was easily accessible.

higher operating temps needing thicker oil is incorrect. some of the best oils today are very thin synthetics, like 0/20, many modern high performance & turbo cars are spec'd for that or other thin oils. if you are within the designed operating temps of the engine, the oil isnt going to get hot enough to change its weight, definitely wont go from a 30 to a 20 in any normal operating temps.

yes its about finding the sweet spot, thinnest oil possible that keeps a good psi. our 4runners dont have a gauge but theres no reason to doubt what toyota says to use for oil, if yours doesnt burn oil between changes or smoke, & your oil light never comes on, i'd stick with the 5/30, will get better mpg theoretically & have better lubrication on start up.

older v8s may have looser clearances & can use a 10/40, but many GM performance cars from the late 60's & into the 70's used 10/30. it all depends on how the engine was built & the bearing clearances. a loose engine for drag racing may use 20/50, but to use 20/50 in any normal street car or stock vehicle is way too thick. thick oil causes all kinds of issues if the engine isnt designed for it.

im not familiar with 3000gt's so cant say what oil they spec, but if the motor was rebuilt for performance maybe it did have looser clearances & a thicker oil would be better? otherwise id rather have the thinnest oil that kept good psi, turbo or not.

 

[kcdehart]

higher operating temps needing thicker oil is incorrect. some of the best oils today are very thin synthetics, like 0/20, many modern high performance & turbo cars are spec'd for that or other thin oils. if you are within the designed operating temps of the engine, the oil isnt going to get hot enough to change its weight, definitely wont go from a 30 to a 20 in any normal operating temps.

yes its about finding the sweet spot, thinnest oil possible that keeps a good psi. our 4runners dont have a gauge but there no reason to doubt what toyota says to use for oil, if yours doesnt burn oil between changes or smoke, & you oil light never comes on, i'd stick with the 5/30, will get better mpg theoretically & have better lubrication on start up.

older v8s may have looser clearances & can use a 10/40, but many GM performance cars from the late 60's & into the 70's used 10/30. it all depends on how the engine was built & the bearing clearances. a loose engine for drag racing may use 20/50, but to use 20/50 in any normal street car or stock vehicle is way too thick. thick oil causes all kinds of issues if the engine isnt designed for it.

im not familiar with 3000gt's so cant say what oil they spec, but if the motor was rebuilt for performance maybe it did have looser clearances & a thicker oil would be better? otherwise id rather have the thinnest oil that kept good psi, turbo or not.

I believe a cherry red turbo may fall outside of designed operating temps And as said turbo is cooled/lubricated by oil, that's gonna drive up the oil temps quite a bit. And as that manual specifies that 5w-40 is OK as long as you won't be using the car in <-4F weather, I think it's a 'better safe than sorry' situation.

I'll switch to 5w-30 in the 4Runner next oil change and see if I notice any gas mileage difference. It seems to be a tad quieter with the heavier oil, but that might just be a placebo effect.

3000GTs have a twin turbo, laterally-mounted 3.0L V6. So, that rear cylinder bank and rear turbo are butted up against the firewall. There were times when I'd run the car hard, park it at 8-9pm, and come out the next morning to an 80 degree vehicle on a 40-degree morning. The community basically found that running much less than 10w-40 - in one that was run hard from time-to-time - would result in 8-10 PSI of oil pressure at idle. Which is very much in the danger zone for those cars. There seemed to be a constant battle to keep oil pressure high to prevent spun bearings. Probably just a poorly designed 90's engine. But they made some decent power

 

[firebirdguy]

what are you doing to cause the turbo to be cherry red? is that normal? the engineers designed the engine to factor in the added temps of the turbo, & the oil they say to use can handle the extra heat, especially if you use a synthetic, a 10/30 synthetic will handle just as much heat as 20/50 & technically if thinner oil still meets adequate psi, it will cool the engine better than an overly thick oil due to better flow. thats how i understand it after lots of research on oil & what my engine builder explains.

i own a 1981 turbo v8 trans am, early draw through carburetor design, no inter cooler, it runs hotter than most other modern turbo cars i see, a friend has a 700+hp suburu wrx that runs much cooler. anyways, the t/a calls for a 10/30 oil on an older v8 engine, based on its clearances, a super hot turbo doesnt change the weight of the oil it needs.

each car/engine is different so use what you feel best about, but be sure to verify with a reputable source what is actually best, there are a lot of myths & false info out there on oil. i just wanted to provide some info based on what ive learned over the years from talking to oil companies & engine builders & owners of very fast cars.

also, i think there was even a toyota bulletin saying the v6 after 2006 can use the current 0/20 or maybe its 5/20, that the 5th gen 4runners use. they are going as thin as possible for the same reasons.

 

[kcdehart]

what are you doing to cause the turbo to be cherry red? is that normal? the engineers designed the engine to factor in the added temps of the turbo, & the oil they say to use can handle the extra heat, especially if you use a synthetic, a 10/30 synthetic will handle just as much heat as 20/50 & technically if thinner oil still meets adequate psi, it will cool the engine better than an overly thick oil due to better flow. thats how i understand it after lots of research on oil & what my engine builder explains.

i own a 1981 turbo v8 trans am, early draw through carburetor design, no inter cooler, it runs hotter than most other modern turbo cars i see, a friend has a 700+hp suburu wrx that runs much cooler. anyways, the t/a calls for a 10/30 oil on an older v8 engine, based on its clearances, a super hot turbo doesnt change the weight of the oil it needs.

each car/engine is different so use what you feel best about, but be sure to verify with a reputable source what is actually best, there are a lot of myths & false info out there on oil. i just wanted to provide some info based on what ive learned over the years from talking to oil companies & engine builders & owners of very fast cars.

also, i think there was even a toyota bulletin saying the v6 after 2006 can use the current 0/20 or maybe its 5/20, that the 5th gen 4runners use. they are going as thin as possible for the same reasons.

Definitely not normal - I was chasing a GTR on Tail of the Dragon. I wouldn't say the car sees that kinda driving often, but when it does, I'd like the thicker oil for sure.

The info is much appreciated! Sounds like you know your stuff with it.

 

[summit21]

204K, Mobil 1 5w30, Mobil 1 in the Differentials, and Redline ATF in the tranny.