How much are people paying for the NEW 4Runner?

[Sputnik]

Obviously don't count a trade in...
Never mind......

actually more than that but taxes and what not takes away from the actual numbers.

but the OP only wanted OTD price not how i actually got there.

Trade in saved me $805 in taxes, went from $2132 in taxes to $1327
trade in is paid off
dealer doc fee for is 389 which should include : title fee of $80 (thats the state fee, not a dealer fee)

tags are around $120 +/- $25 for personal tags, havent decided.

ultimately i am shooting for a OTD price of $30k after everything.

 

[Sputnik]

Tax differences are minimal???(!!!) So, a state like mine that charges 6% on $40K is $2,400.00. A state that has no sales tax is that much less "OTD."

All fees ARE NOT negotiable. Try "negotiating" with your state DMV on license fees lol. Those change considerably from state to state too. In the end you can "pay" the same for a vehicle in your neck of the woods as someone in California or my state of WV, and still owe around $4K more due to those "fees" you think you can get around like taxes, titles and license. Thus is the fallacy of asking a question like this to a large geographic area.

OBVIOUSLY dmv and licensing are NOT negotiable, but every other dam fee is!
When I bought my '11 4runner I watched how the sales guy changed up all the fees to a smaller amount so my OTD will be 34k.

Anyways, forget I even started this thread, you guys just don't get it. All you see is invoice this invoice that. Means nothing to me. All I care about is model and OTD price. I will get this info elsewhere.

 

[1engineer]

Obviously don't count a trade in...
Never mind......

We were just trying to show you the fallacy of "OTD" pricing. If you are trading something in, you always want to negotiate the difference. It does not matter what the new vehicle cost, it does not matter what they give you for the trade in nor does it matter about taxes, title or license. Just have a number you want as the difference between the two vehicles and deal towards that. You already know what you still owe (or if paid off what it's worth to you) so the difference is the only relative number. I do not care what the "invoice" price is either as it is irrelevant in negotiations.

Next time, tell the sales manager "I will give you "$X" difference. Make them figure out the deal.

 

[Sputnik]

We were just trying to show you the fallacy of "OTD" pricing. If you are trading something in, you always want to negotiate the difference. It does not matter what the new vehicle cost, it does not matter what they give you for the trade in nor does it matter about taxes, title or license. Just have a number you want as the difference between the two vehicles and deal towards that. You already know what you still owe (or if paid off what it's worth to you) so the difference is the only relative number. I do not care what the "invoice" price is either as it is irrelevant in negotiations.

Next time, tell the sales manager "I will give you "$X" difference. Make them figure out the deal.

I understand.
But let's say your buying a new vehicle with no trade.
A person who paid "invoice" doesn't mean he got a better deal the. A person that paid say 34k OTD.
That's what I'm trying to say. I did tons of research before buying my first brand new vehicle and realized if you negotiate on invoice price, the dealers will still make you pay a OTD of what satisfies them.
If you negotiate OTD price, and tell them I'm not paying more then 34k OTD, like in my case; then they will scrabble and do math and change what ever they have to change to get the sale if the fleet manager agrees to the OTD price

 

[1engineer]

I understand.
But let's say your buying a new vehicle with no trade.
A person who paid "invoice" doesn't mean he got a better deal the. A person that paid say 34k OTD.
That's what I'm trying to say. I did tons of research before buying my first brand new vehicle and realized if you negotiate on invoice price, the dealers will still make you pay a OTD of what satisfies them.
If you negotiate OTD price, and tell them I'm not paying more then 34k OTD, like in my case; then they will scrabble and do math and change what ever they have to change to get the sale if the fleet manager agrees to the OTD price

Absolutely. If you are buying a vehicle with no trade, then of course you haggle a final price that you both find satisfactory. Most people trade though and if you do go for a "difference" price. I own four vehicles right now. My 2012 is the oldest. Two were traded for and two were bought with no trade. The two I used traded on were done with the difference method. The two with no trade were bought with me presenting a final number, them countering, me countering, etc until a compromise was reached. In that number they could have included the state park parking fees for all I care as long as I got the number that I wanted. BUT, that was MY number and some would be envious and some would think I got a bad deal. To each their own when it comes to that.

 

[Sputnik]

That right there, is the ONLY way to buy. I pity those who negotiate based on invoice. In my case, I never did trade-in's because I always got better deals (more $$$) selling the old vehicle to a private party. I guess if you don't want to deal with the hassle, then you trade it in, but from hearing about other peoples experiences, and my experiences in selling used vehicles to private party, I'd rather not bother with trading in to the dealer.. But that's just me.

Absolutely. If you are buying a vehicle with no trade, then of course you haggle a final price that you both find satisfactory. Most people trade though and if you do go for a "difference" price. I own four vehicles right now. My 2012 is the oldest. Two were traded for and two were bought with no trade. The two I used traded on were done with the difference method. The two with no trade were bought with me presenting a final number, them countering, me countering, etc until a compromise was reached. In that number they could have included the state park parking fees for all I care as long as I got the number that I wanted. BUT, that was MY number and some would be envious and some would think I got a bad deal. To each their own when it comes to that.

 

[adam2562]

i wish this would get back on topic for everyone's sake.. i have a friend interested in a 2014 4runner. was trying to see what others are getting them for.. price before trade in before taxes.. how about that?

 

[Yotta]

But let's say your buying a new vehicle with no trade.
A person who paid "invoice" doesn't mean he got a better deal the. A person that paid say 34k OTD.

Correct, but "invoice" is a convenient shorthand when you're comparing prices people got for different trims and options.

For example when I was shopping for my 4Runner there were options I had to have (e.g. the third row) and options that were, er, optional (e.g. running boards). I got offers on slightly different vehicles from different dealers. Thinking in terms of over or under the invoice was convenient for comparing how hungry or greedy the dealers were.

I wasn't trading anything in, so the number I cared about was OTD before sales tax and DMV fees (I was buying out of state). I ended up getting my truck for almost exactly invoice + a doc fee (and the dealer ate the cost for the pre-installed fluff like clear paint protection, nitrogen tires, etc. -- I was very clear that it is worth nothing to me and I am not going to pay for it).

 

[Sputnik]

FYI, just spoke a sales manager, fleet manager wasn't in. They just quoted me a sr5 with 3rd row seat and backup camera for $36k OTD. This is in w spfld ma.
That's 2k more then I paid for a 2011. This is just about at invoice price.
I told him what I paid 3 years ago for mine, and he told me that would be $1500 under invoice and he couldn't do it. They said they are at least a month out in getting these 14's on the lot.
I bet next year I can get what I want for $1500 under invoice, just like 3 years ago, (34k OTD)

i wish this would get back on topic for everyone's sake.. i have a friend interested in a 2014 4runner. was trying to see what others are getting them for.. price before trade in before taxes.. how about that?

 

[4r2014]

OTD is laughable way to purchase. Dealer loves buyers like that almost as much a payment buyers.

Vehicle purchase, fees and financing should always be negotiated independently.

In have rarely seen nutty junk fees in SoCal after negotiating a purchase of a dozen vehicles of all types of brands. However I know parts of the country are notorious for fees, especially the southeast.

 

[Sputnik]

OTD is laughable way to purchase. Dealer loves buyers like that almost as much a payment buyers.

Vehicle purchase, fees and financing should always be negotiated independently.

In have rarely seen nutty junk fees in SoCal after negotiating a purchase of a dozen vehicles of all types of brands. However I know parts of the country are notorious for fees, especially the southeast.

Please explain your theory.
Invoice is laughable, because when you negotiate OTD, I bet they will remove/lower some fees

Better yet, how much did you pay OTD and what option did you get?

 

[Barry694]

OTD prices

So called "invoice price" is not what the dealer paid for the car. They will never show you that price. Read the entire invoice and you will see a bunch of dollars added on that do not relate directly to the price of the vehicle. Just do your research and tell them what you are willing to pay and if they say no or start to toss out other numbers Walk out the door. You have to be reasonable on your offer also. I never haggle. Just make an offer and if they do not go for it I walk. Have owned 25 new vehicles and never paid more than I originally planned on spending. Have walked on a couple of purchases. Put your self in charge, You are the one buying. Do not let them start talking to you about other prices. When that happens you are letting them take control of the deal. It's your money... There are other dealers, even out of state. There are some vehicles that will not sell below the asking price, because of demand, etc. Be willing to ante up if you cannot live without that particular model. I walked on a car in Sept. I was thinking of moving up to a 2014 with my present dealer. There were a couple of options on the vehicle that they would not budge. So I walked. The options were the automatic running boards at around $600. I am tall and they would be a waste of time for me. The other was the carpeted mats and rear mat. I would put weather techs in, so I had no need to spend money on carpeted mats that I would not use.

 

[4r2014]

Please explain your theory.
Invoice is laughable, because when you negotiate OTD, I bet they will remove/lower some fees

Better yet, how much did you pay OTD and what option did you get?

The only dealer fee I pay is a doc fee: recently $80 for a Mercedes. Before that $50.

 

[4r2014]

So called "invoice price" is not what the dealer paid for the car. They will never show you that price. Read the entire invoice and you will see a bunch of dollars added on that do not relate directly to the price of the vehicle. Just do your research and tell them what you are willing to pay and if they say no or start to toss out other numbers Walk out the door. You have to be reasonable on your offer also. I never haggle. Just make an offer and if they do not go for it I walk. .

All my negotiating is done by email or phone. Not sure why anyone would ever do otherwise these days.

 

[Sputnik]

The only dealer fee I pay is a doc fee: recently $80 for a Mercedes. Before that $50.

Please read the thread above. Dealer will never let you know how much they paid for a vehicle. Invoice means nothing. Dealers have lots of incentives, etc, etc.

 

[Sputnik]

Good OTD price to go off of: edmunds TMV
Link to a sr5 TMV in my area:
2014 Toyota 4Runner SUV SR5 Price With True Market Value^®

 

[Yotta]

...actual cost of vehicle to dealer. ... dealer true cost including options.

Um, your numbers are wrong. The dealer's actual cost for the vehicle does not include holdback, for example. Also I highly doubt that the "true cost" to the dealer of clear paint protection is over $200...

My rule-of-thumb assumption is that the actual cost of the base vehicle to the dealer is about 3% below the invoice and that fluff options (like paint protection) have profit margins in hundreds of percent.

 

[Sputnik]

just 2 weeks ago i bought a AS IS vehicle for $3600 OTD. guess what, that was the sticker price they had.

i made them figure out how to get to that OTD price. they ended up lowering the price of the vehicle to cover the TTL and dealer fee's.

i already did my research and had a mechanic go over the vehicle so i knew the final price i was williing to pay in cash.

i do understand your pov but there is a small set of people that can buy a vehicle without a trade or down payment and just outright buy one.



Exactly!
Back in 2011 my sr5 was MSRP roughly 35,500. I paid 34k OTD. They had to do a lot of subtracting from all the fees and price to get there. That why in voice means nothing.

Also if your not buying cash, still negotiate OTD, then get you own bank to finance.

 

[4r2014]

Please read the thread above. Dealer will never let you know how much they paid for a vehicle. Invoice means nothing. Dealers have lots of incentives, etc, etc.

I was in the auto business on the corp level heavily involved with dealers. Invoice does not mean nothing. I know all about incentives both public and private. It is more complex than you will ever know unless you are immersed in it.

Invoice is a way to compare the deal from dealer to dealer. When you talk OTD to a dealer they see you as a sucker. Not to say that you can't get a good deal by negotiating OTD but you are firing in the dark. When you go in with a deal relative to invoice then you have a better barometer of the deal.

Best strategy is to contact the dealers in your area and give them an "X below invoice plus incentives" number and see what comes back. Be liberal with the X number, try $2000 to start. I do something a bit more sophisticated but you should almost always out deal and OTD strategy this way. Then negotiate trade-in, then fees (when appropriate) and then financing.

Take it or leave it advice from someone who has seen behind the curtain. Good luck.

 

[Sputnik]

To all there own. I negotiate with OTD price. I can care less what the idiot sales guys think about me. I have the cash. I'm the consumer. I am shelling out the $$. If they say no to my OTD price, I walk. 3 years ago my OTD negotiation equaled to $1500 under invoice apparently plus the fees became less. I will post a Pic of my contract as proof when I get home

I was in the auto business on the corp level heavily involved with dealers. Invoice does not mean nothing. I know all about incentives both public and private. It is more complex than you will ever know unless you are immersed in it.

Invoice is a way to compare the deal from dealer to dealer. When you talk OTD to a dealer they see you as a sucker. Not to say that you can't get a good deal by negotiating OTD but you are firing in the dark. When you go in with a deal relative to invoice then you have a better barometer of the deal.

Best strategy is to contact the dealers in your area and give them an "X below invoice plus incentives" number and see what comes back. Be liberal with the X number, try $2000 to start. I do something a bit more sophisticated but you should almost always out deal and OTD strategy this way. Then negotiate trade-in, then fees (when appropriate) and then financing.

Take it or leave it advice from someone who has seen behind the curtain. Good luck.