How much are people paying for the NEW 4Runner?

Yeah...I think it's probably the best I can do for now. I might just hold off and see if I can get a better deal around end of November.

If you can afford to hold off and especially if you have flexibility for colors/options I'm sure you can get better deal in November/December. Just keep an eye on how inventory shrinks because if there are no more 2019 cars left - you won't get a deal at all.
 
So everybody is posting their prices and then what they paid "out the door" but I'm wondering how many of these were done on financing? Because if you aren't paying cash, then the "price" they quote is artificial. The dealership can get your "price" pretty low as long as they stretch out your financing to cover the difference.

I mean, if you are paying like $36,000, but it's all financed...by the time you finish the loan you've paid upwards of $40,000 anyway, right?
 
If you can afford to hold off and especially if you have flexibility for colors/options I'm sure you can get better deal in November/December. Just keep an eye on how inventory shrinks because if there are no more 2019 cars left - you won't get a deal at all.

Yeah, I see all of the current Toyota incentives expire on 11/4 up here in WA so I'm crossing my fingers they might do something for the 4Runners after that. We'll see.

I'd still prefer to buy used, but the used prices are pretty dang high and no one seems to want to deal right now.
 
Here's an interesting tidbit. Because dealerships make most of the money on the service - local dealers are more likely to fight aggressively for your purchase than remote ones. I talked to dealerships from other states (Oregon / Nevada) and none of them were able to get close to what eventually local dealers started to offer.

You are not wrong, but they do get big kickbacks from the manufacturers by selling a certain number of cars, so they will sometimes sell for "no money" knowing they will get it back at the end of the month when they get kickbacks. That's why it is always best to buy on the last day of the month or year. If they aren't meeting their numbers they will make killer deals so they don't lose out on the kickback. Last 3 cars I bought were at least 200 miles outside of Dallas, two of them out of state and they were cheaper than anything I could get in Dallas (and Dallas is a competitive market).
 
So everybody is posting their prices and then what they paid "out the door" but I'm wondering how many of these were done on financing? Because if you aren't paying cash, then the "price" they quote is artificial. The dealership can get your "price" pretty low as long as they stretch out your financing to cover the difference.

I mean, if you are paying like $36,000, but it's all financed...by the time you finish the loan you've paid upwards of $40,000 anyway, right?

That's sort of true but also a very simplistic way of thinking. There are many things that folks can do with $36k that will outperform current interest rates on a new car loan so that cost is usually offset anyway. There are no guaranteed returns in investing but paying cash for the full amount guarantees 100% of the risk of owning a sinking ship is on the buyer. Financing it puts some or all of the risk on the lender while I still have the cash and flexibility I otherwise would not have.

There are times you will get a better deal not paying cash as the captive or dealer will count on making their profit through borrowing costs and other incentives at signing which will net you a better deal OTD. In that case, finance, lease, take the incentives and do what is necessary to come out on top.

There are some who prefer to pay cash and not worry about payments and that's okay too if it works for their situation as not having a payment has its own benefits.

Regardless of how the car is financed, it is always important to negotiate a cash (OTD price) whether it is a cash, finance, or lease deal (cap). That is always the starting point then figure out interest/MF, terms, etc. Once you start negotiating backwards based on financing (payments) it gets complicated and you will for sure get bent over or stretched.
 
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FWIW, I'm extremely not stoked with Stevinson West in Lakewood, CO right now. They put some kind of remote disabling system on all their cars, that the sales people can open with an app on their phone. They leave it on the car when you buy it, apparently. Well, for some reason mine triggered an alarm today and ran my battery down while I'm at work, it won't let me turn it off, they can't figure out how to turn it off remotely. I called the front desk and they told me to call my salesperson. The sales guy say it's not his problem and to call service. I call service and they tell me to call the sales guy. Pretty unhappy with my purchase at the moment and wishing I had bought my car somewhere else.

AND they are now refusing to take off the remote disabling system.

That sucks. I almost bought my 4runner from there. Would have sucked to have purchased it and run into this issue when I live all the way in California. Which 4runner did you buy?
 
Has anyone had an issue of a posting their deals on here and the dealer getting upset? I love seeing all the pricing, helped me negotiate mine and what I could do to get everything lower on the pricing.

Just curious I guess.

----------------------
2020 4Runner ORP - No Mods (yet)
 
That's sort of true but also a very simplistic way of thinking. There are many things that folks can do with $36k that will outperform current interest rates on a new car loan so that cost is usually offset anyway. There are no guaranteed returns in investing but paying cash for the full amount guarantees 100% of the risk of owning a sinking ship is on the buyer. Financing it puts some or all of the risk on the lender while I still have the cash and flexibility I otherwise would not have.

There are times you will get a better deal not paying cash as the captive or dealer will count on making their profit through borrowing costs and other incentives at signing which will net you a better deal OTD. In that case, finance, lease, take the incentives and do what is necessary to come out on top.

There are some who prefer to pay cash and not worry about payments and that's okay too if it works for their situation as not having a payment has its own benefits.

Regardless of how the car is financed, it is always important to negotiate a cash (OTD price) whether it is a cash, finance, or lease deal (cap). That is always the starting point then figure out interest/MF, terms, etc. Once you start negotiating backwards based on financing (payments) it gets complicated and you will for sure get bent over or stretched.

If car is financed, financing should normally be secured outside of the dealership first. Then you can show up at the dealer, do everything and as you are finishing the deal you mention - bank XYZ gave me X% APR, can you do better than that?
Or you could also say - bank XYZ gave me X% APR, can you give me better deal if I finance through the dealership? Then you would have to calculate everything to make sure you are actually getting better deal. As a matter of fact I had a situation like that once. Credit union (DCU) gave me around 2.4% rate and dealer gave me I think 2.6%. I said obviously I'm going with DCU then they replied that they will lower the price of the car if I go with their financing. I calculated everything again and it made sense so I went with dealer financing. You can always refinance later on that better rate anyway :). That was few years ago.

Car price and financing are two very separate topics and should not be mixed up together.

VB.TRD.Pro is spot on - folks can invest that ~$40k better than the car loan APR so it's very individual situation. If I'm normally getting 10% of return on my investments and car loan APR is at 3% - why wouldn't I finance the car?
 
You are not wrong, but they do get big kickbacks from the manufacturers by selling a certain number of cars, so they will sometimes sell for "no money" knowing they will get it back at the end of the month when they get kickbacks. That's why it is always best to buy on the last day of the month or year. If they aren't meeting their numbers they will make killer deals so they don't lose out on the kickback. Last 3 cars I bought were at least 200 miles outside of Dallas, two of them out of state and they were cheaper than anything I could get in Dallas (and Dallas is a competitive market).

What you are talking about is very specific type of deal. Yes, you can arrange that but there are some limitations:
- most likely you are not getting exactly the car you wanted (color/trim)
- you might not get the prior year car at all - I'm not sure if there will be any 2019 4Runners left in my area by 2019 December 31; Inventory is shrinking
- you have to find that one dealer that needs to sell that 1 car more; if they already fulfilled their quota, December 31st vs January 1st next year won't make any difference for them - that simply means a lot of work for you to find that dealer

Also, these types of deals are more popular on uncommon or exotic cars. Toyotas generally sell pretty well. All of that should be considered.
 
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Thanks for your help guys,

I finally pulled the trigger on a 2020 White ORP with KDSS.

I got this quote from a regional dealer and it seemed decent:
The MSRP on this vehicle is $45,674.
Internet savings of $5,150!
Your Internet E-Price is *$40,524.

OTD price was $41,294.12
 
Thanks for your help guys,

I finally pulled the trigger on a 2020 White ORP with KDSS.

I got this quote from a regional dealer and it seemed decent:
The MSRP on this vehicle is $45,674.
Internet savings of $5,150!
Your Internet E-Price is *$40,524.

OTD price was $41,294.12

Congrats on the new 2020! Either you have a really low tax rate or you had a trade? Only paying $770.12 in taxes is fantastic.

What else was on your deal? Thanks!
 
No trade, and in Oregon, so low taxes.

I think just crossbars and mats were included accessories on my ORP, along with KDSS.

I’d been shopping around for a while, and following this forum. I randomly pinged this dealer asking for an internet quote. The deal offered was no haggle, and the over $5k discount was the biggest I saw at any of the other dealers I’ve talked to in the region.

Pretty sure in a few months much better offers will be available, but right now I’m happy with 11% off. Zero pressure from the sales guy or the finance guy they make you talk to. Drove off pretty quickly with just the truck and nothing I didn’t want.
 
Curious

I’ve been following this thread for several weeks and appreciate you all. Is there any way to get a discounted TRD Pro? I would love one, but I would likely only do it if I was in that 10-13% discount range.

I am trading in a Ford F-150 diesel that will be upside down a bit, so I need a great deal regardless.

Thanks!
 
Picked up my new 2020 Limited today. Pretty pleased with the overall experience as I had financing already lined up and got in and out of the dealership in slightly over an hour with no push to buy add ons from the finance guy. I’m sure they’ll have some better deals down the road but I think it’s pretty decent for their first Limited off the lot. Overall, I’m extremely happy with my new rig.

2020 Limited - Black/Graphite
All weather floor liners, cargo tray, roof rack cross bars, running boards and 3rd row
MSRP - $49,456
OTD Price - $46,799
Discount - 9.5%
 
Got a 2020 TRD off-road like a month ago - MSRP 43000 - paid 39000 for MSRP that’s around 9 % I think


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for your help guys,

I finally pulled the trigger on a 2020 White ORP with KDSS.

I got this quote from a regional dealer and it seemed decent:
The MSRP on this vehicle is $45,674.
Internet savings of $5,150!
Your Internet E-Price is *$40,524.

OTD price was $41,294.12

Can you post the dealer? I’m in Oregon and about to pull the trigger on a 2019, but that’s about the same discount as I’m seeing on a 2019.
 

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