Check out Keating Toyota in Manvel Texas. I bought a 2020 SR5 with third row 4x4 in September with sticker msrp of 41,358 for $37,295 pre TTL. About 10% off as I pushed for 40k out the door with TTL to make it happen. I flew down from Madison WI for the deal. It was the car I wanted. Nautical blue, 3rd row, and TRD wheels.
Check them out. They have a couple of SR5 2wd third rows last time I checked.
NICE!
I just closed a deal with Vandergriff Toyota in Arlington, TX. on a metallic gray 2021 4Runner SR5 2WD Base Model for the wife. I'll be flying into DFW from Nashville next Thursday to pick it up and drive it the 10 hrs back to Nashville!
Port/Factory-Added Equipment: 3rd Row Seats, Cargo Net, Black Tube Step Running Boards (Total MSRP: $1788)
Dealer-Added Equipment: Window Tint, Pinstripe, "Zaktek" Interior/Exterior Appearance Package, Nitrogen in tires (Total MSRP: $1297)
$36,340 Base MSRP
$1245 Toyota destination fee
$805 3rd Row Seat (factory-installed)
$649 Black Tube Step Running Boards (port-installed)
$275 Premium Carpet Set (port-installed)
$59 Cargo Net (port-installed)
$399 Window Tint (dealer-installed)
$299 Pinstripe and Nitrogen in tires (dealer-installed)
$599 "Zaktek Interior & Exterior Appearance Package" (dealer-installed)
____________________________________________________________
$40,670.00 Total MSRP
____________________________________________________________
-$1000 (Toyota Rebate)
-$500 ("Keep It Wild Savings")
-$5695.59 (Dealership Discount)
____________________________________________________________
$33,474.41 before tax, title, license
So...if you don't count the "Keep It Wild Savings" of $500, and the Toyota Factory Rebate of $1000, since those come from Toyota automatically, the $5695 that the dealership itself is discounting the truck amounts to about
14% off MSRP.
Counting both the dealership discount as well as the Toyota factory incentives of $1500, the
total discount of $7195.59 off MSRP adds up to a
17.69% discount.
I want to thank one of the others who posted in this thread who gave some great advice on getting a good deal on a car, which I followed:
- Set up a Gmail account to use only for correspondence with dealerships. This way, your personal or business email accounts don't get clogged up with all the dealership sales emails. And, it's easier to keep track of offers, because only car sales offers will be in that inbox.
- Also, get Google Voice, which allows you to set up a separate phone number to give to salespeople. Forward that number to your regular phone. You can then selectively turn that number off at any time of your choosing, preventing unwanted calls from dealerships by either selecting "do not disturb", or turning off calls fro that number altogether (for example, I work nights, and salesmen like to call first thing in the morning and wake me up). You can also select a "call screening" option, with which anyone who calls that number has to state his name before it will put the call through to you. You then get to listen to the person say his name before you select whether or not to accept that call.
- Make an Excel spreadsheet to keep track of all the offers, along with which dealership and salesman made the offer, their contact info, the VIN and description of the vehicle, etc. Trust me, it can get a bit hard to keep track of when you have 10 or more offers, and all the vehicles have different factory, port, and dealer-installed options. I only had about 10 offers to go through, because there aren't that many 4Runners out there, comparatively, that are what we were looking for (base, 2WD, with 3rd Row).
- Start emailing every dealership that has what you're looking for. Personally, the search engine I found most helpful was Auto Trader. I was able to search for exactly the truck and options I was looking for. Ask for their best out-the-door price. That way, regardless of what their fees or whatever, are, you can look at the bottom line and compare different dealers.
You can also "back into" how much they're actually discounting the truck, if you know the base MSRP, destination fee, factory, port, and dealer-installed options, as well as the factory incentives. This way, you can "compare apples to apples" with regard to price, no matter what the options are, and determine a percentage off MSRP that the dealer is discounting the vehicle, to get your best deal and find out which dealers are willing to cut the price the most.
There are also sites that claim to disclose to you the "invoice price" and "dealer holdback" either for a fee, or for giving them your info. I didn't try this - the approach I took was just to email a bunch of different dealers and ask for their best offers, and, after a few days, I had a couple of pretty good offers, and one really good offer (the one I'm buying). But, I guess, if you have the accurate dealer cost info at hand, you could just decide how much you think it's fair that the dealership should make on the deal, and go from there, making them an offer.
Another thing - if you're looking to borrow money to buy a vehicle, your best interest rate will usually be at a credit union, especially if you have good credit. I was able to get 2% interest for 60 months at Old Hickory Credit Union, here in the Nashville area. I think if I went to 72 months, it would have been 2.5%. I don't think even Toyota Motor Credit is that low with their special rates.
