How much rust is too much rust

N180Runner

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Hello peeps, saw a nice 3rd generation which I am planning on purchasing. It's a 99 model with 156k miles on it. Already test drove it and the she felt good. I am just wondering how much rust on the frame is too much rust? How can you tell surface rust from something deeper? Also, which areas in the frame and under the hood should I check out? I am in northern New Jersey and the car is inspected but I'm not sure if they take that into account during inspection. Your help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
 
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Any rust!!! Haha seriously though I would say that depends where you live. In many states and provinces rust eating its way through is just part of life. If it was me, Eastwood treatment on the frame and underbody once I bought it(so long as I felt everything else was spot on) because it would bother the bait out of me, and did.

Best of luck with the hunt
 
Poke the rust bubbles before you buy it. What looks Harmless surface rust may be worse. If the big screwdriver goes through the rust into the frame walk away.

I bought a 96 and discovered a huge hole at the trans crossmember. Then spent the next two week on my off days sandblasting and painting the frame looking for more.

They do rust from the inside out.
 
Look VERY closely at the inner and bottom part of the frame rail next to the muffler right in front of the frame mount for the rear axle lower control arm. Also look at the rear axle housing on the back of the differential for any wet spots.
 
Get under there with a screwdriver and poke away. If it's just 99% paint that is flaking off the frame, it's not a big problem YET (but don't leave it like that forever if you live in a salt belt state). If there are flakes of rust coming off too, it's getting more serious, but still not a problem. Just much more urgent that the rust gets fixed soon. If there are holes through the frame, you probably would want to skip, unless it's a ridiculously cheap and you don't plan on keeping it for a long time. Larger sections of perforated frame - it's a parts car.
 
Dam it was too late!!! Dint lift the truck before buying it. I took it to a mechanic to check the exhaust and wala! just what i was scared off. Frame Rot exactly were JRZEE2000TR4LTD told me to check and more. I am not a mechanic so Dam. Shit I think im screwed. Do you guys think this can still be fixed by a welder?
 

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The Titanic has less rust on it this very day as it sits at the bottom of the ocean.

I would _never_ buy a rust belt or east coast car for the very reason you are seeing.

Out here in the wild, wild west you never see see that type of damage even on a vehicle that has not been maintained so well.

IMO I would not dump any additional money into it - you will never get it back and there is likely a whole lot more you haven't even found.
 
Frame is bad ! Thats what would scare me. Is it fixable ? Yes ! Everything is for the right price. In other words if you want to throw money , it will be fixed. Same way people restore cars. Now if it only had rust around the rear shock mounts. I wouldn't really be scared. As there are alternatives to mounting rear shocks. I seen people make mounts on the outside part of the frame. Heck you could even convert to leaf springs if you are deep in. Me personally I'd sell the truck. Or get a donor or keep this as donor.

Says your in NJ, I bought my truck from NJ and even though I was very cautious about rust. So cautious that I completely missed the fact that these trucks came with e locker or manual. But my truck has no where near that rust. None at all ! And it's from NJ.
 
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I'd walk away, take your time on searching for the vechile. Remember you can also look into different states.
 
Damn, my truck is a 99 & no where near that. I wheeled on the beaches of LI for the first 5 years I had it but always took it to the car wash right after. Even during the winter I bring it to the car wash once a week. Salt Kills! It sucks people dont take of their shit.
 
That sucks you bought it already. I laid under mine for almost an hour with a flashlight and screwdriver before i bought it. I wasnt worried about a little surface rust and body spots. But if the frame had any holes I walked away. I live in Michigan so rust and salt is guaranteed. My 97 has 233,000 on it and frame/suspension is good to go. Some small spots on rockers but not bad. If I was you, id either sell it or find a donor 4runner and start swapping frames.
 
The rust on my frame on my 99 was a lot worse than that and I had it repaired by a shop that works exclusively on 3rd Gen 4Runner's and Tacomas..It wasn't super expensive either it cost me under a grand to have it repaired.
 
The rust on my frame on my 99 was a lot worse than that and I had it repaired by a shop that works exclusively on 3rd Gen 4Runner's and Tacomas..It wasn't super expensive either it cost me under a grand to have it repaired.

What shop was that? I may need it after this winter, and I'm in the area.
 
Don't listen to anybody on this thread that is telling you to walk away, buy a new frame, and so on. That is a very common spot to have rust, and a lot of people have fixed it (myself included). The steel cost me around $10, and I spend about 2 hours doing the job. I cut out an 18" x 2" section, and welded in a new piece of 1/8" mild steel. Once the rusted area was removed I didn't see any other sections that we rusted out. I slide a wire camera through the frame and all the rest was still in great shape. You can PM me if you have any further questions.
 
Don't listen to anybody on this thread that is telling you to walk away, buy a new frame, and so on. That is a very common spot to have rust, and a lot of people have fixed it (myself included). The steel cost me around $10, and I spend about 2 hours doing the job. I cut out an 18" x 2" section, and welded in a new piece of 1/8" mild steel. Once the rusted area was removed I didn't see any other sections that we rusted out. I slide a wire camera through the frame and all the rest was still in great shape. You can PM me if you have any further questions.

That is true for someone who can weld and can evaluate the frame enough to trust their work, but for a weekend mechanic, I would say it's better to walk away than to buy a harbor freight welder and make this your first welding project.

Don't get me wrong, I have a harbor freight welder, and would totally use it to repair my frame, but I have also done alot of welding with it already and know I could do the job without getting help from here. I'm also an engineer and am comfortable trusting my own judgement. If I had kids, then I might not feel as confident with them in the car.
 
That is true for someone who can weld and can evaluate the frame enough to trust their work, but for a weekend mechanic, I would say it's better to walk away than to buy a harbor freight welder and make this your first welding project.

Don't get me wrong, I have a harbor freight welder, and would totally use it to repair my frame, but I have also done alot of welding with it already and know I could do the job without getting help from here. I'm also an engineer and am comfortable trusting my own judgement. If I had kids, then I might not feel as confident with them in the car.

A Harbor Freight welder is a great welder to learn on. It's what I learned on a couple years ago. Don't get me wrong, this task isn't for everyone. However, I'm willing to bet you can find someone to do this for around $500. Look for a small mom and pop shop. They don't have the overhead that larger companies do, and still have quality work. I still wouldn't tell someone to walk away from it; even if they can't do the welding themselves.
 

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