How much weight in armor can I add before needing a different suspension?

[TrDpRo_J]

On the Ko'2 I run 285's in a C load and love them..

Look aggressive, quiet, no difference in mileage (19mpg) and they've stood up to off road parks - rock crawling and what not. I did a spacer lift for now, I get only a tiny bit of rub while reversing at full lock. My total height increase has been 3"

 

[mscot]

Start with a few essentials. Better tires; I’d suggest stock size to maintain your powertrain warranty...

Bigger tires voids your powertrain warranty? This is the first I've heard that.

 

[Toffees]

So....now we are up to 291lb - 366lbs of added weight. What are my suspension options? Perhaps no suspension lift but just change the springs?

Congrats on the new ride!

Your performance may vary, and always design based on what you expect to get out of it, but I've as many as 7 humans (driver included) and roughly 300 lbs of gear (top and back) in a stock Limited and it drives fine, although I'm doing nothing technical.

So I agree with what you've already read; 300lbs of armor shouldn't require new suspension.

*If you're looking for justification for your significant for a new suspension, please rephrase your question in a new thread, we'll bury this one, and you'll get some expert physics to explain whey you need the best that $1,000 or $2,000 or whatever your price point may offer.

 

[Throwback]

Definitely keep your stock Trail wheels too. They are designed to protect the valve stem from getting snapped off, which isn't really something you find on aftermarket wheels that are only built to look good on the street.

 

[wfo9]

A common misconception with IFS trucks is that suspension lifts clear bigger tires.. They don't.

These things do make room for bigger tires.
- Body lift (totally different than a suspension lift)
- A suspension lift with bump stop extensions (not something you typically want on the front of a 5th gen 4runner since the travel is already so limited)
- Bracket lifts (again not something you typically want on a 5th gen)

- Trimming (cutting back or moving plastics)
- Alignment (positioning the wheel more forward with + caster... to clear the body mount)

The last two is what you want. 33s/285s will fit with no lift.

 

[GogDog]

What about 255/80/17s? That'll give you the ground clearance you want and would keep the tire weight down and the rolling resistance down for your gas mileage.

I...will definitely have to do some reading on those.

On the Ko'2 I run 285's in a C load and love them..

Look aggressive, quiet, no difference in mileage (19mpg) and they've stood up to off road parks - rock crawling and what not. I did a spacer lift for now, I get only a tiny bit of rub while reversing at full lock. My total height increase has been 3"

Isn't that rather atypical though? Adding a lift and changing to 285s didn't drop your MPG by 2+ or so?

Anyway...after thinking about it...I think I am on board with not getting a slimline bumper/winch, and instead getting a snatchstrap and generic maxtrax. And no suspension lift.

Previously...I was thinking the main disadvantage to buying new tires now (like...265s) is that if 10K miles down the road I did want to change the suspension, I would be sitting on 265s that haven't been worn down yet so couldn't justify 285s. 265s would look weird on a 2-3" lifted truck I would assume.

So, in my mind...I could do 275s that could look good either lifted or not, it would give me +.5" ground clearance, and wouldn't hurt my MPG as much as 285s. That only assumes I can get C rated 275s (I read somewhere they don't make them), because right now I assume I don't need E rated tires

Of course, now I'm realizing 285s fit, so I could do 285s C rated right off the bat ->

A common misconception with IFS trucks is that suspension lifts clear bigger tires.. They don't.

.

But yeah..head is spinning. I do like the thought of only having to pick a TIRE though, instead of suspension + tire. I can add suspension later.... if I notice me abusing my skid plates a bunch (so need lift/clearance) or off road just feels to rough on OEM suspension.

 

[GogDog]

Oh, and about the 255/80s ....it says here that they are in the red zone and would require extensive modifications? ->

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...r-5th-gen-tire-fitment-guide.html#post1550444

Basically...this is why new members have so many questions. Here on the thread....some members say suspension lift/spacer lift doesn't help with tire fitting...but a stickied thead states ->

Red means that your 4Runner will require extensive mods such as a lift, body mount chop, new UCA's, etc

If lift really doesn't help with fitting, who is really right? I probably just need to read more though.

 

[The Waco Kid]

Oh, and about the 255/80s ....it says here that they are in the red zone and would require extensive modifications? ->

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...r-5th-gen-tire-fitment-guide.html#post1550444

Basically...this is why new members have so many questions. Here on the thread....some members say suspension lift/spacer lift doesn't help with tire fitting...but a stickied thead states ->



If lift really doesn't help with fitting, who is really right? I probably just need to read more though.

Every truck has minor nuances, as do the parts we install on them. YMMV essentially. I'd look and see if any are running it stock, but if people can run 285's without issue/minor fender rubbing bone stock, I don't see the issue with a skinnier tire. At the least you may want a small lift. If you change rims, you'll more than likely run into rubbing issues.

To give an example of nuances: I have stock sized tires and aftermarket rims... I rub a little at full lock and reverse. I could fix it with a better alignment and new uper control arms, or some more trimming. But it's so rare, I'm not bothered. This was true without my lift too.



Also, fallen wildpeaks offer 285's in P rated. Slightly smaller tread depth than the e equivalent, increased ground clearance, and lower weight... Tires are fun. Good luck on your search. They're one of the first things I would change if the need is there.

Tires > Sliders> Skids... Would be the order I'd go if you're in and around rocks.

 

[GogDog]

Ok...just read all 48 pages of the tire fitment thread ->

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/156378-going-bigger-5th-gen-tire-fitment-guide.html

And tire change thread ->
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/208403-changing-tire-size-wheels-read-first.html

38 pages of ridge grappler thread
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/219980-nitto-ridge-grappler.html

And a half dozen other threads. Lots of info on the site. As with any forum, there are quite a few different opinions that have to be weighed against each other.

But...it looks like I will be going with 285 tires, will plan on just cutting up fenders and whatnot. Will find some 8 - 8.5" width, 4.1 to 4.5" BS wheels (probably FN or SCS are the recommended brands), and get an alignment and hope that my stock UCAs can apply enough caster.

Will skip the bumper/winch still. Just get sliders and skids, with recovery gear.

Will checkout the local Boise 4x4 offroad groups (there are several), try out some runs and see if that interests me. If it does...will get a lift to increase approach/departure angles (and ...increase the looks and for the better performance). If not....the tires, skids and sliders, and recovery gear will get me through any forest service road to remote trailheads without issue.