How the hell do I get this fuse out?

[rigtec]

"...The sparks were very pretty!..."

Hahaha! What a fantastic attitude in the midst of calamity; I'm still trying to learn to say neat stuff like that while bleeding lol!

"...I'll bypass that POS fuse and run a 4 ga wire from the battery to the Fusebox 10mm terminal and use a 140a circuit breaker..."

BTW: You don't have to connect the POS battery terminal directly to the 10mm input supply (cable) bolt at the fusebox; you can always connect the POS battery term to the alternator output (B+ Terminal) on the top of your alternator instead!

rig, cheers!

 

[Antman]

Well- ever since I fried that fuse it's been bothering me to no end!

So I woke up this morning and took a look at my Beagle Floyd...




...and I decided to fix this thing.




Autozone- $4.19 140a bolt in fuse.



This is the wrong fuse- in that it won't plug in there, but the amperage is correct, so a slight modification is necessary! This is the fuse taken apart:



After some test fits, I cut the contacts to the lengths you see and applied some solder.




Then some solder on the blown 140a fuse leads.





Soldered together and with a new semi-custom lid, lol.






I'm pretty happy with this solution. It beats busting my fusebox apart (or watching someone at the dealer charge me to bust it up) and it's more or less the same as it was. I didn't want to solder the blown fuse leads together and use another fuse on the alt +feed line- just not comfortable with that.
I will run a "quick-charge line" from the alt to the battery with a 140a breaker, just as a backup, like in Rigtec's writeup. I already ordered the parts for that the day I blew the fuse anyway.

Glad this is behind me. Truck is running perfectly!

Thanks for all the suggestions and help everyone.

 

[bimrunner]

Well- ever since I fried that fuse it's been bothering me to no end!

So I woke up this morning and took a look at my Beagle Floyd...

View attachment 221905


...and I decided to fix this thing.

View attachment 221911


Autozone- $4.19 140a bolt in fuse.

View attachment 221907

This is the wrong fuse- in that it won't plug in there, but the amperage is correct, so a slight modification is necessary! This is the fuse taken apart:

View attachment 221909

After some test fits, I cut the contacts to the lengths you see and applied some solder.

View attachment 221910


Then some solder on the blown 140a fuse leads.

View attachment 221912



Soldered together and with a new semi-custom lid, lol.

View attachment 221913

View attachment 221914


I'm pretty happy with this solution. It beats busting my fusebox apart (or watching someone at the dealer charge me to bust it up) and it's more or less the same as it was. I didn't want to solder the blown fuse leads together and use another fuse on the alt +feed line- just not comfortable with that.
I will run a "quick-charge line" from the alt to the battery with a 140a breaker, just as a backup, like in Rigtec's writeup. I already ordered the parts for that the day I blew the fuse anyway.

Glad this is behind me. Truck is running perfectly!

Thanks for all the suggestions and help everyone.

You may not want to run an in-line fuse. PM [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] and ask him why.

 

[Antman]

You may not want to run an in-line fuse. PM [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] and ask him why.

I know his reasoning behind that- but I respectfully disagree.

We have had a lot of PM's lately, lol- nice guy!

 

[jrandom]

Holy sh!t that has to be the one of the dumbest design faux pas I have seen to date. A vital fuse bolted in from underneath, seriously WTF, akin to hiding a hide a key inside the car, you have to break something to get it out.

Nice solutions btw, both the solder modded fuse and the [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] circuit breaker :thumb:

 

[rigtec]

You may not want to run an in-line fuse. PM [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] and ask him why.

Hi Ben,

My reasoning for discouraging the use of a safety fuse in the quick charge line to those that are running an oversized, H.O. alternator (i.e. 270-XP) does not apply to those who are still using the stock (O.E.M.) alternator in the 4Runner. To explain: The reason for my not using a in-line fuse in the quick charge line is because... if by chance I happen to be loading up that 270-XP alternator, and that quick charge line fuse blows, the high current that's flowing through the QCL will only have one electrical path left to flow through (don't forget: the stock line cable is still there), and so all of the current that's leaving the alternator e.g., 250A, 260A... is still feeding those aftermarket loads, but now has only one way to get to them, and that is to go through the 140A oem fuse and fusebox! That is a 'SURE WAY' to blow that 140A fuse!

That's why I will advise those who are using the 270-XP 'or any high output aftermarket alternator' to hardwire that line w/ no fuse! Now, the reason that this precaution doesn't apply to the O.E.M. alternator as in [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] 's case is because that 140A fuse is sized for that alternator group e.g., 100A, 130A... and the loads that are assigned to the stock wiring; this is the reason that this 'DOES NOT' apply in the case of the stock alternator!

rig, cheers!

 

[bimrunner]

Hi Ben,

My reasoning for discouraging the use of a safety fuse in the quick charge line to those that are running an oversized, H.O. alternator (i.e. 270-XP) does not apply to those who are still using the stock (O.E.M.) alternator in the 4Runner. To explain: The reason for my not using a in-line fuse in the quick charge line is because... if by chance I happen to be loading up that 270-XP alternator, and that quick charge line fuse blows, the high current that's flowing through the QCL will only have one electrical path left to flow through (don't forget: the stock line cable is still there), and so all of the current that's leaving the alternator e.g., 250A, 260A... is still feeding those aftermarket loads, but now has only one way to get to them, and that is to go through the 140A oem fuse and fusebox! That is a 'SURE WAY' to blow that 140A fuse!

That's why I will advise those who are using the 270-XP 'or any high output aftermarket alternator' to hardwire that line w/ no fuse! Now, the reason that this precaution doesn't apply to the O.E.M. alternator as in [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] 's case is because that 140A fuse is sized for that alternator group e.g., 100A, 130A... and the loads that are assigned to the stock wiring; this is the reason that this 'DOES NOT' apply in the case of the stock alternator!

rig, cheers!

See, this is why I tagged you. Thanks for setting me straight again! :trophy:

 

[barryhiram]

Way to use your noddle [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION], adapt and overcome........I love it!

And I agree with you, [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] is a cool dude, we've spoken several times on the phone. Hope to meetup with him next time I'm down in his neck of the woods.

 

[rigtec]

I know his reasoning behind that- but I respectfully disagree.

We have had a lot of PM's lately, lol- nice guy!

Jeff,

As you know, over the last couple of years a bunch of us have come up with a few methods just to avoid removing the main electrical box to replace that PITA blown 140A main fuse. But... this is the absolute QUICKEST, CHEAPEST, AND EASIEST method that this forum has ever seen...

The [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] "No-More-Stress Work-around"!

LET US ALL REJOYCE :hail::hail::hail::guitar2:arty::dancin::dancin:arty::hail::hail::hail:

'Best to you Bro'!!

 

[Antman]

Jeff,

As you know, over the last couple of years a bunch of us have come up with a few methods just to avoid removing the main electrical box to replace that PITA blown 140A main fuse. But... this is the absolute QUICKEST, CHEAPEST, AND EASIEST method that this forum has ever seen...

LET US ALL REJOYCE :hail::hail::hail::guitar2:arty::dancin::dancin:arty::hail::hail::hail:

'Best to you Bro'!!

Thank you for your help on this Greg. eace:

 

[4runnerRB]

Does anyone know how to remove the 140a ALT fuse?

Did anyone figure out how to remove the 140a ALT fuse yet on the 5th Gen 4Runner? Been searching and I understand I will need to remove the fuse box and somehow drop the bottom portion of the box to access the bolts. But I have yet to read a success story with instructions? It would help to know where all the bolts and clips are located to access the fuse. I really want to avoiding winging it. Thank you

 

[Antman]

Did anyone figure out how to remove the 140a ALT fuse yet on the 5th Gen 4Runner? Been searching and I understand I will need to remove the fuse box and somehow drop the bottom portion of the box to access the bolts. But I have yet to read a success story with instructions? It would help to know where all the bolts and clips are located to access the fuse. I really want to avoiding winging it. Thank you

Good luck. I pride myself on being able/willing to take apart almost anything and put it back together.

This fuse box? Only way I would attempt it is if my 4Runner was my spare vehicle and I had a couple totally free days. I took A LOT of stuff apart on that box and still couldn't get the damn thing completely apart.

Toyota should sell the damn thing as an "Impossible Puzzle" lol.