How to build your own Sonoran Steel 1.2 Lift Kit

[BrianSD_42]

I figured this deserves its own thread.

Also, seems like there is a lot of variations to [the Tundra + LC kits] that people are running and I feel like I won't know what to buy or where to buy it at.

Actually there is little variation on what is recommended by Steve at Sonoran Steel for the 1.2 lift kit using OEM Toyota Tundra Coils front and LC coils and shocks rear. He is VERY SPECIFIC that only certain years and exact models will work and won't ride like crap. This setup is hardly cheap but it is certainly a GREAT quality setup and ride for your well earned cash. I am still running the rear setup, going on near 10 years now. And for the front well I upgraded to King but not really out of necessity, more out of a tax return that was a bit flush.


I'll continue to suggest the OEM/Toyota Tundra+LC setup. See Sonoran Steel’s website Build It Yourself section, they have the part #s posted. I’ve run this and it has worked out great for years and years on trails all over the West. The parts need to be exactly these, not any other close part #s. Per Steve, substitutes likely will render poorer results.

I recommend you check out the deal Steve is offering of $500 for the starter kit including instructions and phone support (for customers only).

Link --> 1996-2002 - System 1.2 You Build It/Piece It Together ​

FRONT - These EXACT PARTS:
* Front TRD Coils: 48131-AF090 & 48131-AF100 (1 of each specific part #) [$191 each]
* Front Bilstein 5100: 24-261425 (Qnty 2) [$120 each at AutoAnything] --> https://www.autoanything.com/suspension-systems/77A5660A6319055.aspx

REAR - These EXACT PARTS:
Rear Land Cruiser Coils: 48131-6A570 (2)
Rear Toyota Tokico: 48531-69417 (2)

So $700 + $240 = $940 (no tax and free shipping!). Plus $500 to Sonoran Steel if you want the quick setup kit linked and that equals ~ $1,440 out the door for a proper correct real Toyota parts LC+Tundra badass lift kit. You would still need to assemble the front strut and coil together but you aren't experienced you can pay a local shop 1 hours labor, lets say $100 to assemble it for you. That brings you up to $1,540.


BTW, Steve's $500 DIY kit includes:

--> Sonoransteel.com 1996-2002 - System 1.2 You Build It

Kit Includes:

1 of 1” Tapered Diff Drop Kit

2 of Custom Polyurethane Top Plate Seats, Mold Number: M20190

2 of Rear shock mounting kits for long travel Bilstein 5100 or Tokico Land Cruiser shocks

1 of Adjustable Trac/PanHard Bar, corrects alignment and more rear articulation over a bracket

2 of Custom rear bump stops/adapters to adjust to either brand long travel rear shocks

2 of Rear sway bar brackets, gives the rear axle more articulation with sway bar connected

1 of 6mm Allen Zerk Plug, prevents damage to rear drive shaft and gas tank skid plate, under long travel conditions.

1 of 3.5” longer rear brake line, Braided/Stainless, for long travel shocks (2001-2002 add $35.00 for second line)

1 of Parking Brake Bracket for long travel shocks

:bat:

 

[Vansnxtweek]

This is awesome!! Thanks for posting this. I've always been interested, but a bit lost when it comes to placing this setup together. This is a great thread.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Yes it is. I should also mention that the front end parts only come out to about $620 plus $100 to a shop to assemble the coil over struts. That's $720 for front alone, without the rear or the $500 kit Sonoran Steel sells.

Well at $720 for front parts, why not just spend extra $300-$400 and get full King front end suspension? That runs about $1,000 - $1,100 these days. If you do go King IMO choose the 650 coils, definitely not the 700 coils. --> http://www.kingshocks.com/

So this alternative would be:
1) King front coil-overs ~ $1,100 (already assembled)
2) Toyota rear setup using parts above ~ $320 from Camelback Toyota Online Parts
3) Sonoran Steel $500 DIY starter kit with Panhandle bar, diff drop, instructions and more

Totals out to ~$1,920 for those curious.


BTW, none of these kits include front extended end links. There are a few folks on the forum here who make them. I've got a pair from StickFigure that's held up well enough over the years. MDStut also sells them and they look very quality. Definitely get extended front links, do not simply remove your sway bar and links. Big mistake except when on the trail doing serious wheeling. With extended links I hit nearly every trail just fine and with plenty of flex. Lastly, if you do remove your sway bar full time, well don't be surprised if your suspension wears out faster than normal.

:usa2:

 

[octanejunkie]

Nice thread

The 24-261425 billies are $104 each with free shipping from Summit Racing, no tax for me in CA

You can save a bit more coin on the Tundra TRD Pro shocks by going with Eibach 620# springs, approx $169 in silver from Toytec or $159 in black from Wheelers, plus shipping. I got mine from a Toytec dealer for $185 delivered. NO THESE ARE NOT TUNDRA TRD PRO SHOCKS, before someone rails me for saying.

Also, don't forget the extra factory cushions and centering washers for the rear Tokico shocks; they seem not to include those anymore.

 

[BrianSD_42]

The 24-261425 billies are $104 each with free shipping from Summit Racing, no tax for me in CA

If that's the same exact part for Tundras that Auto anything is selling than that is amazing. Half the cost.

Also, don't forget the extra factory cushions and centering washers for the rear Tokico shocks

I believe these are included in Steve's $500 kit. Not sure if Toyota includes them with each shock though.

You can save a bit more coin on the Tundra TRD Pro shocks by going with Eibach 620# springs, approx $169 in silver from Toytec or $159 in black from Wheelers, plus shipping

Not railing you but with those changes it is essentially a different lift. Once you change the springs with a different brand it isn't the same setup. My intention here was to show people how they can DIY with a SS 1.2 kit. I mentioned the Kings but only because for a small price more it's a good upgrade.

can someone explain why this is worse or better than either the Toytec kits or the Absalom builds?

Well as Octanejunkie is hinting at you can customize a list many different ways. Since each person's opinion is subjective there isn't one true result. Also consider that many many vendors sell different lift setups. Why do they sell lifts at all? To make money! Hopefully with a good product where the customer hopefully likes the product. Very few resellers advise the OEM Toyota parts because the parts are expensive and the profit isn't there. Japanese .... or China springs? It's your choice.

This thread isn't really meant to be a comparison of different lifts and which lift should I buy. There are several of those threads already. I've tried not to talk smack about any other lifts, it wouldn't be fair since for one thing I've never driven them.

But it isn't too hard to find recommendations here on T4R. Also you can call ToyTech and work with their experts to build a lift. Many many here have and I've always heard good things about the service.

 

[theesotericone]

can someone explain why this is worse or better than either the Toytec kits or the Absalom builds?

Since each person's opinion is subjective there isn't one true result..

Exactly.

I've ridden in a lot of rigs with a lot of different set-ups over the years. I can't say one is better then the other. Unless your talking high end shocks(King, ADS). Then you will notice it and you will want high end shocks.

I knew my lift would be a stepping stone to Kings. There was other things that money needed to go towards at first. Sliders, Skids, yada, yada. Now that those are out of the way Kings or ADS will be in the semi-near future. It's all about what your intended use and priorities are.

Do the research and pull the trigger.

 

[octanejunkie]

can someone explain why this is worse or better than either the Toytec kits or the Absalom builds?

Jordan's (@absalom) thread details builds catered to a specific goal/audience, pavement to trail, and the various parts and general maintenance that should be used and performed to accomplish that goal. The lift Brian is detailing is the DIY version of the SS 1.2 Buy Your Own kit and where to get the gear to do it.

Jordan's Budget Trail Crawler build is essentially the SS build with variation in the rear shock and body lift, along with some other sundry parts.

Brian is not saying one is better than the other, as intimated by his response to my "suggestion" away from TRD coils to Eibach, but it's no longer the same lift/performance as the SS kit once a major component, like front springs, are changed. I opted for the less expensive Eibach coils, so my result will be different than SS.

Jordan's build list is reasonable and the only variations I'd ass are 880/906 spring combos and 881/890 combos in addition/lieu of 99 tall coils for the more budget conscious.

 

[jeredcollins]

Great info as always... what are everyone's thoughts on a lift kit mostly used for daily driving with the occasional camping trip/4x4ing?

No bumper or winch and no armor also.

 

[octanejunkie]

Great info as always... what are everyone's thoughts on a lift kit mostly used for daily driving with the occasional camping trip/4x4ing?

No bumper or winch and no armor also.

Since we're on the subject, look here:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/197591-absaloms-cookie-cutter-4runner-builds.html

You could also consider 881/890 springs with 4runner-specific bilstiens all around

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[jeredcollins]

Since we're on the subject, look here:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/197591-absaloms-cookie-cutter-4runner-builds.html

You could also consider 881/890 springs with 4runner-specific bilstiens all around

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Amazing, this is exactly what I'm looking for.

 

[BrianSD_42]

From the "Budget Trail Crawler" section.

---- Edit: before using this list, see the first post and visit the SS website ---
* Used 2002-2004 Toyota Tundra TRD front springs (paint color code - yellow yellow, yellow blue)
* New Bilstein 5100's for Toyota Tundra (set to 2nd perch)
* Used 1991-1996 Toyota Land Cruiser front springs
* New Monroe Sens-a-Trac 91-96 Land Cruiser rear shocks

Absalom's Cookie Cutter 4runner Builds

I think absalom had a great idea and created a very useful thread. The one thing I'll point out is that the info in the OP just isn't specific enough to provide lift kit advice, particularly a parts list with exact Toyota parts numbers. You'll need to get that in another one of the dedicated lift threads, above in this thread or SS's website.


Context from Sonoran Steel's website:

--> you should actually avoid used coils if possible
--> you only want to use CERTAIN exact part numbers of Toyota Tundra springs, LC shocks etc
--> The Toyota part # years, types (eg X year and rear vs front and 2WD, vs 4WD) are not interchangeable enough to equal a good ride
--> Again, the different years and part numbers of "Toyota X line parts" don't ride the same and shouldn't be assumed the same.
--> Use the exact part numbers Steve lists


So if you are going to do the Tundra + LC and want Toyota specific parts please be aware that the only Toyota part #s recommended with SS 1.2 ride are the ones posted above and on Steve's website. What I take these guidelines to mean is that if you are going to try and build a Toyota parts Tundra+LC these are the parts you'll want to use assuming a default weight truck. These years, these part numbers etc. But, if you do need something different like 8 wrap vs 7 wrap then just be aware of the original list and specifics.

I also don't think Steve is in any way saying the SS 1.2 Toyota parts Tundra+LC is better than X other lifts. Many of the newer lift kits hadn't even come out when he did all of the testing and started selling these kits.

A lot of this thread has been new simply reposting info that was already available on Steve's website. Nothing amazing. But since until recently I didn't know he had this section up I assume few others did as well.

More from SS website. --> http://www.sonoransteel.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=127

You can find build it yourself support on the Yotatech and T4R message boards. The bottom line is, if you follow the directions and buy the exact parts listed here you ARE NOT going to have any issues.

USED COILS:

I don't recommend it at all with the front TRD Tundra coils. 99% of them used out there will not work. Nothing from an Access Cab will work, Nothing from a 2WD will work, Nothing from a NON-TRD truck will work, Nothing from 1999-2002 and 2005-2006 will work. The only coil that works and is tall and soft is 2003-2004 Full 4 Door Double Cab, 4WD with TRD Package. The coils have the color codes Yellow-Yellow and Yellow-Blue.

As for the rear lift coils, you can buy OME 890 springs, New LC coils or try to find used LC coils. If you look for used coils, you want to get the FRONT coils (which go in the 4Runners rear) from a 1995-1997 FZJ80. No other years work correctly. Nothing from a Lexus. If the seller does not know what year they came out of, then don't buy them. Counting wraps is not our benchmark, we use actual model years, we CAN NOT tell if the number of wrap are correct, know the model year!

The ONLY used springs you want and will work correctly are One: green/orange/white and the Second: purple/gray/white.

Personally, I would buy new springs. If you DO NOT get the EXACT parts listed here, it is NOT going to come out right.

Aftermarket Coils from other companies ARE NOT substitutions. If you are not willing to follow the formula exactly, then you should not buy this product as your results will not be the same or right.

 

[BrianSD_42]

I guess i'm asking why the taco/LC springs are better performance than the Eibach springs, etc. beyond a "because they're OEM" answer. or why bilsteins are different than the toytec boss, etc

Unfortunately that question is very vague. Have you called ToyTec?

I suggest you check out the reviews on this site. If you haven't already use the "how to search sticky" or link in my signature to easily find proper results.

A search on Boss. What are members saying? And btw if you are considering the Tundra+LC SS 1.2 DIY kit, well why don't you visit the website call Steve at Sonoran Steel tell him you are interested in buying a lift kit (they sell many types, not just the OEM 1.2) and get some feedback.

Then talk with ToyTec if you want a 2nd opinion. Then read more reviews.

Unless we are talking about a specific aftermarket coil over setup like King, ADS, Icon, etc where you buy a pre-configured assembled single SKU kit then it really isn't easy at all to say Boss is better than OME or whatever.

 

[octanejunkie]

I guess i'm asking why the taco/LC springs are better performance than the Eibach springs, etc. beyond a "because they're OEM" answer. or why bilsteins are different than the toytec boss, etc.

That's like asking Chevy or Dodge

Unfortunately that question is very vague. Have you called ToyTech?

I suggest you check out the reviews on this site. If you haven't already use the "how to search sticky" or link in my signature to easily find proper results.

A search on Boss. What are members saying? And btw if you are considering the Tundra+LC SS 1.2 DIY kit, well why don't you visit the website call Steve at Sonoran Steel tell him you are interested in buying a lift kit (they sell many types, not just the OEM 1.2) and get some feedback.

Then talk with ToyTech if you want a 2nd opinion. Then read more reviews.

Unless we are talking about a specific aftermarket coil over setup like King, ADS, Icon, etc where you buy a pre-configured assembled single SKU kit then it really isn't easy at all to say Boss is better than OME or whatever.

Much ado about simple choice. Is one better than the other (toyota vs aftermarket) when modding, that is super subjective. The point of this thread was not to promote any one specific lift or kit, but to expand upon the SS 1.2 Build Your Own Kit ($500) where you are told WHICH specific parts to get, but not from where. Brian outlined where you can get them and what your total budget would be - I believe that is the point of this thread.

Whether SS 1.2 is best for your needs and budget vs BOSS or King or Icon or Joe's Shocks and Shiz is really up to you. Do your research. Ride in other people's rigs. Make an informed decision.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

I'm just here to let [MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION] know it's ToyTec, not "ToyTech".
Aright, back to your scheduled back and forth bickering.

 

[madbomber08]

What am I missing here? If one is to get the exact same stuff Steve lists in his "not included" list, don't you just have a System 1.2? Why wouldn't you just get the 1.2 if you're going to piece together the same stuff anyway? They are the same price. I could see it if you had plans to get different shocks and springs but wanted all of the extra goodies. Also, it says in the "piece it together" page that no phone or email support is included with the "piece-meal" kit.

Not trying to cause a ruckus, just trying to fully understand...

Edit: It looks like the system 1.2 is sold out, is he not offering this anymore?

 

[AntleredRuin]

This is a great thread.

Yes it is.

Hahahaha :lol:

 

[BrianSD_42]

What am I missing here?

Not sure what you’re missing. I created this thread because I see folks mentioning Tundra + LC OEM kits all the time but I also see folks talking about picking a variety of Toyota parts to try and make a similar version.

I simply want to let anyone trying this know that if they plan to go OEM, with this setup in mind, here are the exact Toyota parts you need. And oh btw they actually aren’t that interchangeable with other years, 2WD vs 4WD etc.

I’m not stepping into the SS 1.2 kit vs other kits debate [Meaning proceed to debate away, but I’m good]. In fact I openly encourage any to call vars and vendors on your own get opinions for yourself.

 

[cccolin]

Not sure what you’re missing. I created this thread because I see folks mentioning Tundra + LC OEM kits all the time but I also see folks talking about picking a variety of Toyota parts to try and make a similar version.

I simply want to let anyone trying this know that if they plan to go OEM, with this setup in mind, here are the exact Toyota parts you need. And oh btw they actually aren’t that interchangeable with other years, 2WD vs 4WD etc.

I’m not stepping into the SS 1.2 kit vs other kits debate. In fact I openly encourage any to call vars and vendors on your own get opinions for yourself.

FYI, I called Toytech and got almost no answers to my questions, in fact the guy wouldn't even let me talk. kept talking over me to tell me that the Boss Kit was the cure to all my ails. but not why, just a stream of marketing bs that didn't answer my questions at all. Which is exactly what I expected a vendor to say. They aren't here to educate you, they're here to sell you product. At any rate, if we're not allowed to have a discussion on why a person would pick the SS kit vs another one, I don't see the point in this thread, as this exact info including part numbers is already on his site.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Is ToyTec a vendor or a var? I know they are a var. Do they actually own Boss?

Btw I work for a vendor, information technology field. Any vendor with a sales team worth their salt should be able to sell you on the product on the phone.

Perhaps call a different var. There are so many!

Btw the why SS 1.2 kit? Well I originally went with SS because Steve knew what he was talking about and the local and remote VARs DID NOT.

At any rate, if we're not allowed to have a discussion on why a person would pick the SS kit vs another one, I don't see the point in this thread ...

You are absolutely free to do so. Have at it! Seriously all the info I posted at top of thread is done and completed. Debate away.

:bat:

 

[TonyB66]

Yes it is. I should also mention that the front end parts only come out to about $620 plus $100 to a shop to assemble the coil over struts. That's $720 for front alone, without the rear or the $500 kit Sonoran Steel sells.

Well at $720 for front parts, why not just spend extra $300-$400 and get full King front end suspension? That runs about $1,000 - $1,100 these days. If you do go King IMO choose the 650 coils, definitely not the 700 coils. --> King Off-Road Racing Shocks: Coil Overs, Bypass, OEM, UTV, Air Shocks, Bump Stops, Springs, Replacment Parts, Tools, Springs « King Off-Road Racing Shocks : kingshocks.com

So this alternative would be:
1) King front coil-overs ~ $1,100 (already assembled)
2) Toyota rear setup using parts above ~ $320 from Camelback Toyota Online Parts
3) Sonoran Steel $500 DIY starter kit with Panhandle bar, diff drop, instructions and more

Totals out to ~$1,920 for those curious.


BTW, none of these kits include front extended end links. There are a few folks on the forum here who make them. I've got a pair from StickFigure that's held up well enough over the years. MDStut also sells them and they look very quality. Definitely get extended front links, do not simply remove your sway bar and links. Big mistake except when on the trail doing serious wheeling. With extended links I hit nearly every trail just fine and with plenty of flex. Lastly, if you do remove your sway bar full time, well don't be surprised if your suspension wears out faster than normal.

:usa2:

Brian, I've been super busy, but wanted to thank you for starting this thread. Very timely for me...

I had originally budgeted $2K for suspension goodies, so I'm quite happy to see Kings up front (650s) qualify, along with LC in the rear.

Such items will be on my shopping list, maybe soon with some Father's Day deals around-the-corner....