How To: Headlight Bulb Conversion (H11 to H9 & 9005 to 9011)

Another thought, I guess replacing the high beams (with the 9011's) should be as theoretically effective on the 2014/15's as on the 2010-13's since they aren't projector housings - just traditional housings. Make sense?
 
Verdict? At least for the 2014+ with projectors, I can't tell the difference. Not worth the effort at least IMHO.

Not worth the effort? It takes 10 minutes and costs less than the change in the cupholder. I see a noticeable difference when off road, not so much when looking at the lights on a flat wall, but appreciably more light on the road. My night visibility is currently better than some LEDs and almost as good as some HIDs. I can't vouch for this simple upgrade enough.

PS, does anyone know what happened to [MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION] ? Hasn't been heard from since May and he was very active (and helpful.)
 
Another thought, I guess replacing the high beams (with the 9011's) should be as theoretically effective on the 2014/15's as on the 2010-13's since they aren't projector housings - just traditional housings. Make sense?

Correct. Swapped mine in 14 LE, happy to have done so.
 
are the 9011 know by another designation.....EDIT never mind also called HIR1.... but alass headlightbulbs does not have either designation on there site...


Searching on Google it is easy to find a 9011.

However to maintain the same K scale/look/brightnesses on bulbs I prefer to order from the same place like headlightbulbs.com which I have heard have very good bulbs for very good prices.
 
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Even though I traded the 4R, this forum is still helping me. Thanks fellas.

Also, I ordered an extension harness for an H9 socket. This way I can just modify the harness on one end and don't need to modify the H9 bulbs each time.
 
Alternate method for 9005 to 9011 Conversion

It made me nervous to break/cut the socket tab out so I decided it would be easier to modify the plug. Just break off a small tab (green plastic) on the top of the plug and the bulb base wont need any modification. The socket leg will still need to be cut off.
Here are the pics. The last pic shows the cut leg tab compared to the uncut tab.
No wiring problems. I've been running this conversion for two years so far.
If you question whether your wiring can adequately supply your lights check out http://danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html. He helped me convert my 66 VW Bus to 12v and completely revamp my wiring to support 200 watts on the front end.
 

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Had my first burn out last night. Was able to go to Auto Zone and pick up a Phillips replacement for 16 bucks after taxes. Modifying the bulb is really easy. I just used my pocket knife to cut the plastic rib out, and my pliers bend the extra metal tab part until it fell off. Entire process took about 20 min including re-installation. The drivers side is really tight and it can be difficult to fit your hand behind the bulb. I have been really happy with this mod. If you don't think it makes a difference, take the vehicle out on a dark road before and after the mod, you can't determine anything from simply shining your headlights on the garage. IMHO there are very few mods that cost $30 and return this type of performance boost.
 
Absolutely agree with this. I was looking at $500 with of vision x light cannons and other auxiliary lighting options and went ahead and did this. I no longer NEED anything else.

Plus, it's reliable, you're not modifying the vehicle or hacking it up, you automatically have spares (your factory bulbs), and you can pick up other spares at damn near any auto store.

Well worth it. Anyone considering HID's or other expensive or intrusive lighting mods should consider this first.
 
New Modified H9's in San Diego

I didn't pay attention to the fact that these will not work on my 3rd Gen. I have a brand new pair of the H9's that have already been modified but never used if some one wants them. I am in San Diego so if you are local and would like to trade for say a six pack of good SD craft beer let me know.

Jim
 
Headlight upgrade works great

I did this on my 2011 4Runner tonight and it works great. I did not tell my wife and she said,"it seems like the headlights got brighter".

Would highly recommend. I took out the battery to make the drivers side easier to change.
 
Great mod, and very easy to do. Significantly brighter!

Just wanted to add that I took care of all the bulb modifications with needle files.

Really happy to not be messing with a HID retrofit.
 
Thanks for the write up.

Funny that when I was ordering the H9 bulbs from Amazon,
The h9 sylvania bulbs reviews all mention this mod.

I'm doing the low beam only. Amazon wants $20/per bulb for the 9011 high beams!
Anyone know a cheaper route?
 
Been running this mod in the headlights and fogs for 2 years now. Added with the HIR bulbs in the high beams.

really one of the best price/quality/time ratio you can do to this truck. Thanks for giving out this idea
 
Thanks for the write up.

Funny that when I was ordering the H9 bulbs from Amazon,
The h9 sylvania bulbs reviews all mention this mod.

I'm doing the low beam only. Amazon wants $20/per bulb for the 9011 high beams!
Anyone know a cheaper route?

$20 per bulb is a decent price actually. I order mine (I've done this on a few cars now) from Candlepower and it's $45 for 2 bulbs on their site: New Genuine Philips HIR1 (9011) & Philips HIR2 (3rdGen) (9012) <B>-- ON SALE!!</B>


Been running this mod in the headlights and fogs for 2 years now. Added with the HIR bulbs in the high beams.

really one of the best price/quality/time ratio you can do to this truck. Thanks for giving out this idea

Agreed. I did this about a year ago and every time I drive at night I'm glad I did.
 
I may have my H9/9011 bulbs up for sale soon. I want a yellow bulb in the high beam housing for DRL so I ordered Nokya yellow 9005. I'm also going to HID the projector headlight so I won't need my H9's. Going to put yellow H11's in the foglights too so I'll just keep my stock H11's for backup.
 

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