How to install RCI skid plates.

[pobando]

Rear Diff is a PITA

After removing the sway bar, most bolts are tough to access and tighten, 3 are difficult. Not sure of a tool that would make the bracket that goes over the drive shaft more accessible when attaching to the main diff skid, but whoa. I used a stubby wrench and made 1/4 turns to get it snug.

After installation I was thinking these bolts could have potentially partially been installed prior to the main diff skid being positioned in place...

 

[Nick B]

Nice write up .

 

[pobando]

A-Arm Skid plate installation (Easy method)

Follow the directions pull the fasteners you need for a 4Runner (RCI includes additional fasteners for Taco's and FJ's) and you'll be done in 5 minutes flat (both sides.)
I didn't and ended up under the truck with the wrong bolt, and had to crawl back out to retrieve the longer of the two. :rtfm:

You'll need a ratcheting device in 11MM & 14MM.

I used a 14MM ratcheting wrench for the larger bolts (3.5" & 4") and a 11MM wrench + 11MM ratchet to secure the other bolt.

 

[JAXJeremy]

Just got the RCI front skid plate with the filler plate. Does anyone have pics of the orientation of the filler plate? I'm assuming it will be apparent when I got to install, but figured I would check here first since the instruction are lacking..Thanks.

 

[mteolus]

Just got the RCI front skid plate with the filler plate. Does anyone have pics of the orientation of the filler plate? I'm assuming it will be apparent when I got to install, but figured I would check here first since the instruction are lacking..Thanks.

Easy, if I remember right it is 4 bolts. I can go look later on but no instructions needed.

I'll have to take all my bolts off at some time and apply anti-sieze (not to be confused with thread lock). I didn't know to do that when I put them on. RCI or any other manufacturer should tell you that before you put the bolts on as pobano can attest.

 

[Phil Frames]

Just got the RCI front skid plate with the filler plate. Does anyone have pics of the orientation of the filler plate? I'm assuming it will be apparent when I got to install, but figured I would check here first since the instruction are lacking..Thanks.

You can’t screw it up. The slotted end goes between the bolt heads and the front skid. You either install it correctly as a filler or upside down as an off-center scoop.

 

[JAXJeremy]

Thanks..it was pretty easy once I got under there, even managed to do it without raising the front, although I'm sure it would have been a lot easier that way..For some reason my 14MM socket felt too big for the bolts provided..either way, I was able to get it all buttoned up.. I think it looks great..

 

[mattyrides07]

Thanks for this write up. I bought the full RCI skids for my KDSS with diff drop. My adds are:

1. The new front skid comes standard with a slot for the diff drop AND rubber spacers for back of plate.

2. As others said, due to the tight fit of transmission and crossmember skid, the stock location of the exhaust may rattle against skid. The two options to fix this are: a) Make sure you get exhaust wrap, or b) reroute exhaust pipe. I chose Option A as it was the least expensive and time consuming option.

3. I didn't need a helper to install these. I simply used my creeper with my T4R on the ground. I rested the plate on me and got everything bolted up with NO issue. Note: I needed upward pressure on the crossmember though when tightening. This couldn't be done with human force. I used my jack and a piece of 2X4 between the jack an crossmember.

4. Use anti-sieze on the bolts since the skids have service openings (meaning you won't be taking them off for regular servicing).

5. Install Fumoto valve(s).

 

[mteolus]

Thanks for this write up. I bought the full RCI skids for my KDSS with diff drop. My adds are:

1. The new front skid comes standard with a slot for the diff drop AND rubber spacers for back of plate.

2. As others said, due to the tight fit of transmission and crossmember skid, the stock location of the exhaust may rattle against skid. The two options to fix this are: a) Make sure you get exhaust wrap, or b) reroute exhaust pipe. I chose Option A as it was the least expensive and time consuming option.

3. I didn't need a helper to install these. I simply used my creeper with my T4R on the ground. I rested the plate on me and got everything bolted up with NO issue. Note: I needed upward pressure on the crossmember though when tightening. This couldn't be done with human force. I used my jack and a piece of 2X4 between the jack an crossmember.

4. Use anti-sieze on the bolts since the skids have service openings (meaning you won't be taking them off for regular servicing).

5. Install Fumoto valve(s).

For #2, another option is installing a clamp. I'll look for the topic but it is a simple fix.

 

[Mutant138]

Bumping this instead of starting my own thread.

Find the stock skids to be adequate now that I'm lifted (even before they took a hell of a beating). Only part that's lacking is breakover protection.

Anyone running the RCI transfer case skid on it own with oem skids?

 

[tls3601]

After removing the sway bar, most bolts are tough to access and tighten, 3 are difficult. Not sure of a tool that would make the bracket that goes over the drive shaft more accessible when attaching to the main diff skid, but whoa. I used a stubby wrench and made 1/4 turns to get it snug.

After installation I was thinking these bolts could have potentially partially been installed prior to the main diff skid being positioned in place...

How are you liking the rear differential skid plate? Looks very stout!