How to install RCI skid plates.

graciedad04

New member
I looked for a thread with a detailed step by step installation because while the provided instructions are alright they could be better and it is confusing when you look at transmission and tcase skids. So I figured it might be nice for others. I highly recommend having some help while you install these as it will save you from a bloody nose if you were to drop a skid on yourself.

Tool wise you will need 5 sockets(wrenches). 10, 12, 13, 14, 16mm. I used my 3/8 drive impact instead of 3/8 drive ratchet until the last 3 carriage bolts for the tcase skid. And recommend a hammer to snug all the skids together. As others have stated I would recommend the antiseuze on the bolts to keep them free.

Step one. Get under it and remove the factory skids covering engine transmission and the little plastic transition piece.
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Step 2. Change oil if needed, I did and installed my fumoto valve for oil changes later at this time.

Step 3. Remove the silver bolt in the brake line bracket on the drivers side of the frame behind the transfer case. Next have your helper hold the transfer case crossmember in place while you start the bolts on each side. I used a 1 arm bandit to hold it up tight while i torqued the bolts which you can see in both pictures.

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Step 4. Install front skid. The 2 shorter bolts go into the factory skid plate bolt holes on the radiator support brackets. The 2 longer bolts go through the skids and then a pair of spacers. Make sure and leave all of the bolts loose at this point. If installing the transmission skid and transfer case skid make sure you leave a good bit of the rear bolts out so you can slide the transmission skid in place.

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Step 5. I ordered the transmission skid braces which i believe is well worth it. So now we install them using the 6 carriage bolts washers and nuts to bolt them to the transmission skid. Go ahead and tighten them down as you cannot reach them once installed.
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Step 6. Remove the 4 bolts from the 2 tube braces on the factory crossmember. Do not remove tube braces all the way they will act as spacers for the new skid plates. Then slide the front of the transmission crossmember into place above the front skid but under the plastic spacers. Then start the 4 bolts to hold the back of the skid plate into positionwhere you removed the 4 factory bolts.
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Step 7. Slide the transfer case skid into position between the support tubes and the rear of the transmission skid. Install the 3 carriage bolts threads up into the slots and start the nuts from the top.
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Step 8. Push the front skid all the way to the back and tighten the front bolts. Then push transmission skid forward and tighten the rear bolts on the front skid(also the front bolts on transmission skid). Finally push the transfer case skid forward and tighten the 4 bolts that hold the rear of the transmission skid(front of tcase skid). Then tighten 3 nuts on top of the tcase skid and crossmember.

Step 9. Install factory plastic trim piece or if you ordered the integration plate(i did not order it as I have a front lo pro bumper on order.).

Step 10. Stand back and admire.
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How much clearance do you have between the xfer case skid and exhaust crossover? How much between the crossover and the xfer case?

Thanks
 
RCI skid plate install

This is a good write up. I started to install my RCI skids last week but couldn't get the original front skid off due to seized or over-tight bolts (four 12mm bolts). I bought a Milwaukee 1/2" impact wrench for that job. You might want to mention what tools you needed for the install.
It's great you had a lift for this job. It made it easy to photograph too. I'll be on my backside under the vehicle but I might put it up on jack stands.
By the plastic piece you refer to I assume that's the trim piece under the radiator and in front of the original skid plate. Correct?
What happens to the two tube steel braces you unbolted before adding the transmission skid plate? These occur at an angle to the frame and hang low. Mine have been scraped pretty badly already, to the point that I have a hole through one of them on the bottom side. If they remain on the vehicle I'm going to repair or replace them so water can't get inside.
It's a good write up. Consider adding a few more details about my questions. I look forward to seeing the other posts you have planned.
 
I would also add in that it is a good idea to put some anti-seize on all of the bolts. That helps prevent them locking into place like the issue that [MENTION=115572]DesertCanyons[/MENTION] mentioned with the stock skids above.
 
I would also add in that it is a good idea to put some anti-seize on all of the bolts. That helps prevent them locking into place like the issue that [MENTION=115572]DesertCanyons[/MENTION] mentioned with the stock skids above.
Thanks cymon and [MENTION=115572]DesertCanyons[/MENTION]

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
This is a good write up. I started to install my RCI skids last week but couldn't get the original front skid off due to seized or over-tight bolts (four 12mm bolts). I bought a Milwaukee 1/2" impact wrench for that job. You might want to mention what tools you needed for the install.
It's great you had a lift for this job. It made it easy to photograph too. I'll be on my backside under the vehicle but I might put it up on jack stands.
By the plastic piece you refer to I assume that's the trim piece under the radiator and in front of the original skid plate. Correct?
What happens to the two tube steel braces you unbolted before adding the transmission skid plate? These occur at an angle to the frame and hang low. Mine have been scraped pretty badly already, to the point that I have a hole through one of them on the bottom side. If they remain on the vehicle I'm going to repair or replace them so water can't get inside.
It's a good write up. Consider adding a few more details about my questions. I look forward to seeing the other posts you have planned.
Yes desert the plastic piece is the original trim piece between the bumper and the factory skid plate. And the two tube pieces are reused (they are the spacers for the new skid.)

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
I would also add in that it is a good idea to put some anti-seize on all of the bolts. That helps prevent them locking into place like the issue that [MENTION=115572]DesertCanyons[/MENTION] mentioned with the stock skids above.

Good call I did the same. Another good tip to prevent the bolts from "locking" is to not let the dealer monkeys near them. I take my RCI front skid off now before I take it to the dealer for an oil change. Later I will change it myself but have another year left on the two years before that happens.
 
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We put a full set of RCI skids under our FJ and will most likely do the same for our 4Runner. They’re constructed better than most and line up better too.
One thing we ran into is our front diff housing barely touching the engine skid, creating an annoying creak. We’re running a 1” diff drop which is probably the cause. Even with the supplied plate spacers to accommodate the drop we still had to insert a couple extra washers at the front mounting bolts.
 
We put a full set of RCI skids under our FJ and will most likely do the same for our 4Runner. They’re constructed better than most and line up better too.
One thing we ran into is our front diff housing barely touching the engine skid, creating an annoying creak. We’re running a 1” diff drop which is probably the cause. Even with the supplied plate spacers to accommodate the drop we still had to insert a couple extra washers at the front mounting bolts.

This!!!! I don’t have the differential drop/lift and was super close to having issues (as have many others who have also posted about it) with my integration skid. I actually ordered a spare spacer to install.

Post 82:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/222282-cymons-weekend-warrior-mfd-thread-6.html
 
i had difficulties connecting the inner second bolts from the transfer skid to the frame points. Got longer bolts will try to fill those holes up! lolz
 
RCI fuel tank skid plate

Thanks again for the great write-up Chris.

I've done the fuel tank skid plate install. It's the heaviest, largest plate of the set. I was lying on my back with the plate lifted one end at a time onto wood blocks until I got it close. Then I used a wood block on top of the floor jack to lift it into place, making sure to balance the plate on the block and lift.

The hardest part was getting the narrow hanger strip plates that come with it bolted to the skid plate behind the turned up edge. The exposed head is a carriage bolt and it sits facing the crank shaft. With my big fingers I had trouble getting the washer and Teflon nut attached behind the turned up edge.

Next I will be doing the three plates shown in the OP here.

I had a hell of a time getting the front skid off. Before I could do my ICON lift I had to cut the skid plate off because the bolt heads stripped round. The impact wrench and socket didn't do the trick. I eventually got the bolts out by cutting the skid back flush with the bolt heads, turning the plates and chiseling the bolt heads on one side until they turned.
 

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