STX4Runner
New member
[MENTION=54404]jbstrd[/MENTION] or [MENTION=100172]Jim82[/MENTION] do you have any pictures post lift? I bet it looks great.
How To: Lift Installation (on KDSS equipped vehicles)
- Thread starter eddiebx
- Start date
Jim82
New member
Done. I did not want to post in this thread so they are HERE.
Really, all I did was watch the install. Huge thanks to my guy jbstrd for helping get this project complete with his garage and tools, and me.. well, me really just standing by. :hail:
Big thank to Eddie for typing up this and posting the pictures I know that jbstrd and I referenced it a few times and he changed up some things from his first install last year.
jbstrd
New member
You are very welcome, Jim. I had a great time and we can thank Eddie for making things go super smooth. Your rig rocks! Unfortunately for you, I think your wallet will only get lighter now that you got the mod bug. :driving:
JSparky
New member
Not to bring anything back from the dead, but this appears to be the authoritative thread on lifting KDSS equipped vehicles. Does this method still work the best, or has someone figured anything new out lately? I'd like to eliminate any potential issues with driver/passenger side lean. Thanks.
Wepps
New member
When I lifted mine I wrapped ratchet straps around the hydraulic cylinders. I didn't disconnect anything from the LCA or remove the LCA but I did have to remove the UCA which I found to be easier. As for the rear, it wasn't that easy to do and I had to compress the springs some to get them in there but I did. From start to finish all by my lonesome I completed the install in 9 hours. This included removing the old suspension and putting together the front shocks and springs.
STX4Runner
New member
I would follow this method. It worked great for me back in January. Took me 6 or 7 hours by myself.
eddiebx
New member
It depends on if you are trying to do the "no spring compressor" method to separate the top hat from the coilover; or if you are just trying to take out your stock front coilover assembly as a whole and swap them for a new replacement coilover assembly. I am not positive, but you might have enough room to get the coilover assembly out as a whole by just disconnecting the UCA and prying down at the LCA with the KDSS sway bar still attached.
I can update this in a few weeks when I try to pull out my coilover assembly as a whole w/o unbolting anything. Wish me luck
If you do end up needing to unbolt the sway bar at the LCA, then this is probably as good of a way as any to get it back on.
I was confused about that part too. I put a Toytec Boss lift on my wife's 13 TE and it didn't come with any directions whatsoever but I didn't see any reason to remove the LCAs. But its not a bad idea as an "option" if you want to lube the bolts. The front sway bar was definitely a pain in the ass though. I know it doesn't "need" relocation brackets but the end of the bar is at an angle in the bushings now and I don't like it. It rides fine and there are no noises but I think that bushing is going to wear out faster. I might try to come up with some relocation brackets just for the peace of mind.
Last edited:
J Hoss
New member
back from the undead...trying to find the [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION]/@Sp8Ball thread to fill in the missing pieces. Granted this was a quick 6 pages of sorting through 'Sp8ball's posts at work. Any assistance is appreciated in finding their suspension thread(s)! [MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION]
1engineer
Moderator
st8rocks
New member
It depends on if you are trying to do the "no spring compressor" method to separate the top hat from the coilover; or if you are just trying to take out your stock front coilover assembly as a whole and swap them for a new replacement coilover assembly. I am not positive, but you might have enough room to get the coilover assembly out as a whole by just disconnecting the UCA and prying down at the LCA with the KDSS sway bar still attached.
I can update this in a few weeks when I try to pull out my coilover assembly as a whole w/o unbolting anything. Wish me luck
If you do end up needing to unbolt the sway bar at the LCA, then this is probably as good of a way as any to get it back on.
Did you try this method yet?
st8rocks
New member
Do you mind elaborating. Did you do one side at a time, or did you have the entire front jacked up so both sides droop?
Any details will help. Thanks in advance!!
The whole truck was in the air, I had access to a shop and lift. Having the whole front up in the air at the same time shouldn't matter to much I think. But I didn't do it that way so can't say for sure. You definitely had to muscle the unit to get it in and comes it a little. But I think it was easier getting that in rather then muscling with the kdss.. the rear was pretty easy and straight forward. Hope this helps.
be77solo
New member
Eddie, just wanted to thank you for some great tips! I installed a Daystar 2.5" spacer lift front and rear using your tips for the KDSS... I gotta say, doing it the way you said, with the addition of a ratchet strap (I didn't have anyone around to help push the bar/jack towards the LCA), the KDSS was the simplest part of the lift. Everything went very smoothly with your guide.
Additionally, I used SP8balls/Antman's great write up and all went for the most part smoothly.
I did, instead of touching the LCA bolts use a small bottle jack (worth it's weight in gold today ha) to lower them enough to get the new taller spring assembly in place since I couldn't by myself with the pry bar I had get enough leverage. Also came in very hand for the rear to get the axle low enough.
Very happy with results, and your guide made it a smooth process. Definitely a doable job for the at home owner with basic tools willing to put in the time. Thanks!! :rockon:
Last edited:
Pay vs. DIY
Great write up and instructions!
Just wanted to throw in my 2 cents:
I've been looking into the 5100s for a while now, but haven't pulled the trigger because I have been on the fence on if I should have a local shop do the install or tackle it myself. Today I called the local shop to get some pricing and I knew he was going to have some bad news for me when he asked "do you have the suspension with the fluid lines..." Long story short, 3 hours of labor in the front and 2.5 for the rear, which comes to around $575. :smash: not to mention another $125+ for alignment on "modified suspension."
Seems to me the labor is pretty similar whether you do the 5100 or a full coil-over lift.
Looks like DIY may be in my future.
Great write up and instructions!
Just wanted to throw in my 2 cents:
I've been looking into the 5100s for a while now, but haven't pulled the trigger because I have been on the fence on if I should have a local shop do the install or tackle it myself. Today I called the local shop to get some pricing and I knew he was going to have some bad news for me when he asked "do you have the suspension with the fluid lines..." Long story short, 3 hours of labor in the front and 2.5 for the rear, which comes to around $575. :smash: not to mention another $125+ for alignment on "modified suspension."
Seems to me the labor is pretty similar whether you do the 5100 or a full coil-over lift.
Looks like DIY may be in my future.
Similar threads
