How To: Lift Installation (on KDSS equipped vehicles)

[patch]

Their alignment price is bs.. I went to firestone. They have lifetime alignment for I think around $130. You can go as often as you like and to any firestone in the country and doesn't matter if you are lifted or not.

 

[STX4Runner]

Great write up and instructions!

Just wanted to throw in my 2 cents:

I've been looking into the 5100s for a while now, but haven't pulled the trigger because I have been on the fence on if I should have a local shop do the install or tackle it myself. Today I called the local shop to get some pricing and I knew he was going to have some bad news for me when he asked "do you have the suspension with the fluid lines..." Long story short, 3 hours of labor in the front and 2.5 for the rear, which comes to around $575. :smash: not to mention another $125+ for alignment on "modified suspension."

Seems to me the labor is pretty similar whether you do the 5100 or a full coil-over lift.

Looks like DIY may be in my future.

Stay away from someone who ask if you have the suspension with the fluid lines. Yikes! A question like that makes me wonder how much they know about KDSS.

 

[sbk12rs]

My local shop .... good guy .... Just installed my 5100's on all four corners today !
Just a tad over $300 with alignment .

Stock springs on my 015 KDSS TEP and these shocks are the BOMB ! He set them on the the third knotch and its just a tad LOWER at the nose . It looks like perfect !
100 mile ride and it rides so much better . The best money spent !
I'm really happy with the ride !!!!

I did the same to my 07 Fj and I loved it !

 

[koonuk_boy14]

KDSS Side-to-Side Lean

Eddie, just wanted to thank you for some great tips! I installed a Daystar 2.5" spacer lift front and rear using your tips for the KDSS... I gotta say, doing it the way you said, with the addition of a ratchet strap (I didn't have anyone around to help push the bar/jack towards the LCA), the KDSS was the simplest part of the lift. Everything went very smoothly with your guide.

Additionally, I used SP8balls/Antman's great write up and all went for the most part smoothly.

I did, instead of touching the LCA bolts use a small bottle jack (worth it's weight in gold today ha) to lower them enough to get the new taller spring assembly in place since I couldn't by myself with the pry bar I had get enough leverage. Also came in very hand for the rear to get the axle low enough.

Very happy with results, and your guide made it a smooth process. Definitely a doable job for the at home owner with basic tools willing to put in the time. Thanks!! :rockon:

Would you be able to post photos of the finished product, specifically a straight on photo of the front? Based on your signature we have the same vehicle (2015 TEP w/KDSS). I wanted to see if you were able to avoid the side-to-side lean that other KDSS owners have mentioned. Thanks!

 

[Friedom]

Let me add a few things I've noticed, after researching all over the internet vs testing things out in real life. I might be wrong, but it seems like most people recommend that you install a small trim spacer (~5mm thick) on the driver side springs if you are lifting your KDSS equipped vehicles to compensate for driver side lean. I of course went against the grain

When I pulled off my OE front springs, I compared the color paint markings on them to see if there was possibly a difference; it turns out they are both painted with the same exact color markings (from what I understand the markings are usually used to indicate one being stiffer than the other). Also comparing them side by side, they are pretty much identical in height and the number of coil windings as well. So, I concluded that they are most likely the exact same spring rate and height.

After installing my new front OME 883 springs and getting the truck back down on the ground, there was ~3/4-1" difference in height between the left and right. However, right after I hooked up the front KDSS sway bar, the side to side difference was immediately reduced to less than ~1/2" (driver side being the taller side). This is when I concluded that it was a good thing I didn't bother to install the trim packer as suggested, lol.

The above was all observed with the rear end at stock height and less than a 1/4 tank of gas.

Now onto the rear suspension, I noticed the same observations with the rear coil spring markings and what not. I will take yet another educated guess and say that they are probably the same exact spring left and right as well.

Once I got the rear end back on the ground with the new SAW coils, I measured and found that the driver side is actually ~3/4" taller as compared to the passenger side (with the 1/4 tank of gas). However to settle my curiosity, I went ahead and filled up the tank all the way and remeasured; and found that the side to side difference was almost completely even now. This is when I concluded that the driver side trim packer in the rear is not required either.

Also, I noticed that the full tank of gas didn't really affect the front side to side height difference too much at all (less than ~1/4" if that).

I know that your mileage may vary and each truck is different, but I think I can safely say that it's probably better to not install trim packers on the driver side right off the bat, even though it is recommended for our KDSS equipped models.

If you think about it, right now as is my driver side is already the taller side, so if you went ahead and added trim packers, you'd be making it even taller, throwing things way off!

I am not really sure how ARB/OME concluded that the trim packers are required w/ KDSS, and I am not going to comment about that because I am sure they had their reasons. But me personally, I would never recommend installing them as a precaution on KDSS equipped models.

One thought came to mind is, perhaps when they say "driver's side", they actually mean the passenger side in the US market? (I think the aussies drive on the other side of the road?) But even then, it does not really seem to make sense because the factory springs seem to be identical left and right.

Anyway, take this all with grain of salt because these opinions are just based on my observations of ONE lift installation and nothing scientific at all.

I have some thoughts on this:

I installed the Sonoran Steel lift on my 11 TE with KDSS. About 3" in the front, 2 in the back.
Everything is great, and instructions provided worked well, but my driver side sits about 1.5" higher than passenger side - with me in it and a full tank of gas.

So I've been looking into this, and all I've seen so far are references to putting spacers into the shocks on the low side.
But think about the KDSS setup - there's a static link on the passenger side and a dynamic moving link on the driver's side. When you put in the lift equipment, it's going to push the wheels down further from the frame. On the driver side, the KDSS cylinder can move to accommodate this, but the link on the passenger side is now too short for the rest of the changes - it resists the lift. You can put spacers in to give more pressure on the passenger side to compensate for this, but that in theory will just create more tension in the system which would be absorbed by the KDSS cylinder. Probably works, though.
Are there any more solutions?
There's a technical article about recalibration the KDSS to a new setting for what is "level". Equalizing fluids and stuff. I watched my brother blow his x-reas fluid over the place by taking bad advice, so I'm hesitant to take this approach, but frankly it's very possible that it's best.

The next thought that I had was to put a 1-2" billet shim between the KDSS link and the bar, then longer bolts to bolt it together. This would, in theory, lower the sway bar to match the wheels that were lowered.
This may create a new rub point on the factory engine guard. I noticed today that there is already rubbing going on there, though, and that guard will be replaced with some 3/8 steel soon anyways.
I'd love to know your thoughts, guys. Here's the idea applied to a vw bug link pin to balljoint bar adapter:
http://www.sacoperformance.com/images/prodimages/60-2021_large.jpg

Anyone know how hard it would be to do a billet drop down spacer?

 

[Blue15]

ZPC listed as required on this set of lift instructions

Came across this, though it was interesting to see the retailer place the ZPC as required after Lift on their instruction, Looks like and OME kit.

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/4runner_suspension.htm

 

[4RunneRViz20]

Thank you for the dyi wirte up Eddiebox!

Hey all! I am new to the forum and just finished installing Stage 2 Icon on my 2015 Premium TE. Thanks to EddieBox for this awesome dyi write up... It was a HUGE help! Those KDSS brackets are no joke and definitely a pain..

 

[4RunneRViz20]

Awesome post. I know from experience that the front KDSS sway bar is a serious pain in the butt. I ended up tearing up the threads on the sway bar bracket bolts from trying to bolt it back on under tension. I ended up ordering a new set of bolts and the new ones are made of a much harder steel than the originals.

[MENTION=58068]Narkhelek[/MENTION] I ended up doing the same thing with the bottom bolt on the driver side kdss bracket... How did you replace the nut that holds the bolt behind the bracket?? Looks like it's tack welded onto the control arm..

 

[rigtec]

Hi eddiebx,

I believed that I had read ALL of the 'really good' essay/tutorials on these forums, but after reading yours, I see that I haven't. This is among the 'Very Best' write-ups I've seen here so far!

PS: I'm hoping to see many more 'A to Z' tutorials from you bro! Excellent! ...Thanks for your very high work ethic, and example!

rigtec :trophy::trophy::trophy:

 

[MountainClimber78]

LCA Ball Joint Bracket

Alright I need some help! I'm half way though installing my 6112s on the passenger side. I have the top three bolts torqued down on the shock tower and the lower through bolt on the LCA just pushed through with the nut hand tight. I'm trying like hell to get the LCA up high enough where I can install the LCA ball joint bracket; its the one with the two bolts that get torques to 160nM. The problem is when I use my floor jack to lift up the LCA its lifting the whole truck and not compressing the shock. I've got about an inch gap and as it is now the shock isn't compressing at all.

 

[MountainClimber78]

Alright I need some help! I'm half way though installing my 6112s on the passenger side. I have the top three bolts torqued down on the shock tower and the lower through bolt on the LCA just pushed through with the nut hand tight. I'm trying like hell to get the LCA up high enough where I can install the LCA ball joint bracket; its the one with the two bolts that get torques to 160nM. The problem is when I use my floor jack to lift up the LCA its lifting the whole truck and not compressing the shock. I've got about an inch gap and as it is now the shock isn't compressing at all.

And it looks like ratchet strap is the correct answer, thanks [MENTION=15701]twitch[/MENTION]style!

 

[kapp_badbloodz]

so is it possible to just leave the KDSS completely alone? Drop the hub down, unbolt the UCA, relieve stress to be able to unbolt the bottom strut bolt, then drop the LCA down to be able to pull out the entire coilover? Would that put too much stress on the KDSS system?

Curious because I am installing my lift next weekend and I plan to do just that... eff messing around with KDSS.

 

[RunnerPDX]

so is it possible to just leave the KDSS completely alone? Drop the hub down, unbolt the UCA, relieve stress to be able to unbolt the bottom strut bolt, then drop the LCA down to be able to pull out the entire coilover? Would that put too much stress on the KDSS system?

Curious because I am installing my lift next weekend and I plan to do just that... eff messing around with KDSS.

How'd that go? I'm lifting tomorrow, but going with new UCA's so I'd imagine I could leave the KDSS alone?

 

[Friedom]

I really didn't have any issues with reinstalling the KDSS bar when I did my lift. There's a pry point that you use to lever it up, then install the bolt. It's in the Toyota FSM too, I believe. Passenger side first, IIRC.

No more thoughts on billet spacers? I'll talk to a machine shop one of these days.

 

[SmithGoGat0rs]

so is it possible to just leave the KDSS completely alone? Drop the hub down, unbolt the UCA, relieve stress to be able to unbolt the bottom strut bolt, then drop the LCA down to be able to pull out the entire coilover? Would that put too much stress on the KDSS system?

Curious because I am installing my lift next weekend and I plan to do just that... eff messing around with KDSS.

How did this end up working out for you? i have a couple small top plate spacers i was thinking about installing the same way.

 

[kapp_badbloodz]

How did this end up working out for you? i have a couple small top plate spacers i was thinking about installing the same way.

it worked great actually. get some ratchet straps and strap down the front and rear KDSS pistons. Then take off the tires, unbolt the strut from the LCA, swing it down, unbolt the coilover and its out. Install your spacer and reverse... done.

 

[Sundog7121]

This thread is really useful. We installed Bilstein X 4 with fronts set at 2.5" lift. Put 1.5" Toytec spacers on the rear -- studied the photos, followed step by step and it was a piece of cake. We agree, you do have to disconnect the KDSS sway bar on the rear, but it's easy to get it back in place using a floor jack or ratchet straps. All in all, a great thread that let to a great ending! I got just what I wanted -- a slight lift and leveling.

:whoo:

 

[SC01]

Just to clarify, since i haven't been able to find the answer anywhere else.......Is disconnecting the rear KDSS/break lines necessary if I am putting in rear shocks only and no springs?

If this has been addressed somewhere I have missed feel free to direct me with a link. Thanks

 

[SC01]

Just to clarify, since i haven't been able to find the answer anywhere else.......Is disconnecting the rear KDSS/break lines necessary if I am putting in rear shocks only and no springs?

If this has been addressed somewhere I have missed feel free to direct me with a link. Thanks

The answer is, no, you don't need to move any wires or disconnect the kdss to change the shocks only! Thanks forum!

 

[raycie]

it worked great actually. get some ratchet straps and strap down the front and rear KDSS pistons. Then take off the tires, unbolt the strut from the LCA, swing it down, unbolt the coilover and its out. Install your spacer and reverse... done.

so is it possible to just leave the KDSS completely alone? Drop the hub down, unbolt the UCA, relieve stress to be able to unbolt the bottom strut bolt, then drop the LCA down to be able to pull out the entire coilover? Would that put too much stress on the KDSS system?

Curious because I am installing my lift next weekend and I plan to do just that... eff messing around with KDSS.

I too would like not to fuss with the KDSS as much as possible. I have installed using the UCA (swap out) and the LCA (drop down) methods before on my Tacoma.

Because I will be changing springs and shocks (have access to a garage spring compressor) is the only steps needed and not have to disconnect the front KDSS components:

1. Rachet strap the front KDSS
2. Undo the UCA
3. Drop out the assembly
4. Reinstall reverse..

I will be swapping out the rear springs as well, so I know I will need to disconnect the KDSS for that...