SnowYeti
Member
1" lift Eibach springs. So likely a little more lift than that. Higher spring rate.
1. Handling
2. Want to park in my garage with the rack on (it is going to be tight)
How To: Lift Installation (on KDSS equipped vehicles)
- Thread starter eddiebx
- Start date
1" lift Eibach springs. So likely a little more lift than that. Higher spring rate.
1. Handling
2. Want to park in my garage with the rack on (it is going to be tight)
jakeromyces
New member
Huge thanks to everyone that’s contributed to this thread. I did my full suspension lift install this weekend and there’s no way in hell I’d have gotten it done without all the feedback here. Kudos to this community!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Jesse1983
5th Gen Moderator
Huge thanks to everyone that’s contributed to this thread. I did my full suspension lift install this weekend and there’s no way in hell I’d have gotten it done without all the feedback here. Kudos to this community!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
what did you install and what was total time?
jakeromyces
New member
Added Toytec/ Bilstein 5100 3" coilover, Toytec 2" superflex rear springs, Toytec Boss shocks, Spidertrax 1.5" wheel spacers all around, and BFG KO2 285/70/17 (Costco installed those for me though).
The largest chunk of my time went towards fighting the KDSS back into place. I'd say someone as inexperienced as me could do it within 8 hours.
So, I finally got around to installing my Icon Stage 2 lift on my 2016 Trail with KDSS. So many posts. I think I read them all. I had printed about 10 different articles. I am sure each has it's merit but I will tell you what I did.
For the front, I disconnected only the lower tie rod ends. Not a big deal. I did not touch the KDSS at all. Obviously I removed the UCAs and coilovers as the kit supplies new ones..Driver's side was a piece of cake with just the use of a jack handle under the LCA to achieve enough room. I did put a floor jack under the connecting point of the KDSS on the passenger side so that might of helped.
Passenger side - I jacked up under the KDSS piston and compressed it. A bit tougher but the jack handle and a fat guy will absolutely give you enough room to install new coilovers. NO NEED TO DISCONNECT KDSS. If it works for you to disconnect it, feel free. Just my two cents.
The rear is much easier. I removed both shocks first and only disconnected the KDSS on the passenger side. Using a jack on the opposite side it was simple to get in the new coils. Loosen the ABS and break line brackets.The only issue I had was replacing the track bar. The KDSS threads must have been clogged with Loctite. Very difficult to get the button head in with a 3/8 6mm hex key. stripped the allen head but I think I got it tight enough.
Take this for what it is worth. Many ways to do the same job. I have told you the route I took. About 4 hours on the front and I did the rear the next day. Maybe 2.5 hours. I also added Toytec bump stop extenders and the differential drop that was included.
Not telling anybody how to do anything. I have only done a handful of lifts and this is my first with KDSS. Just letting you know what has worked for me. Taking to the shop for 295/70/17 Nittos and new Icon Rebound wheels next week. Body mount chop and fender liner adjustments have been made. I will post some pics when finished. Alignment is okay. Getting the suspension to settle.
I encourage anybody who has the access to do your lift install yourself to do it. Not brain surgery You really get to know your truck and if you have the tools give it a shot.
Thanks to everyone who posted tips and tricks for a KDSS lift and everything else 4Runner related.. You guys are the best!
Rob
For the front, I disconnected only the lower tie rod ends. Not a big deal. I did not touch the KDSS at all. Obviously I removed the UCAs and coilovers as the kit supplies new ones..Driver's side was a piece of cake with just the use of a jack handle under the LCA to achieve enough room. I did put a floor jack under the connecting point of the KDSS on the passenger side so that might of helped.
Passenger side - I jacked up under the KDSS piston and compressed it. A bit tougher but the jack handle and a fat guy will absolutely give you enough room to install new coilovers. NO NEED TO DISCONNECT KDSS. If it works for you to disconnect it, feel free. Just my two cents.
The rear is much easier. I removed both shocks first and only disconnected the KDSS on the passenger side. Using a jack on the opposite side it was simple to get in the new coils. Loosen the ABS and break line brackets.The only issue I had was replacing the track bar. The KDSS threads must have been clogged with Loctite. Very difficult to get the button head in with a 3/8 6mm hex key. stripped the allen head but I think I got it tight enough.
Take this for what it is worth. Many ways to do the same job. I have told you the route I took. About 4 hours on the front and I did the rear the next day. Maybe 2.5 hours. I also added Toytec bump stop extenders and the differential drop that was included.
Not telling anybody how to do anything. I have only done a handful of lifts and this is my first with KDSS. Just letting you know what has worked for me. Taking to the shop for 295/70/17 Nittos and new Icon Rebound wheels next week. Body mount chop and fender liner adjustments have been made. I will post some pics when finished. Alignment is okay. Getting the suspension to settle.
I encourage anybody who has the access to do your lift install yourself to do it. Not brain surgery You really get to know your truck and if you have the tools give it a shot.
Thanks to everyone who posted tips and tricks for a KDSS lift and everything else 4Runner related.. You guys are the best!
Rob
has anyone with kdss and a lift kit experienced issues with teh front sway bar shifting towards the driver side? My truck has 6k miles on it now. at 4k miles after light off roading i noticed that one of the metal clamps that secures the kdss sway bar bushing had came off. dealer replaced the entire sway bar. the sway bar still looks shifted to the right. no clunks, no issues, but i'm wondering if anyone else has this happen on their rig? I've got a ton of friends with trd pros and off roads like mine with kdss and nobody has this issue. I'm running fox coilovers 2-3" lift nothing crazy at the present moment.
4R4Trout
Member
Just keeping the thread going for others to get good information. I just finished putting on a Dobinson lift front and rear. After reading this thread I was a little concerned about the KDSS sway bar system being a giant pain in the arrsss. But following the recommendations from others on this thread made it go super smooth. My only hiccup was a snapped bolt upon removal on the passengers side rear sway bar end link. I had to drill and tap it. I ended up getting a little bit longer bolt and through bolted it with a nut on the end. Other then that every else went pretty easy.
I plan to start installing the Eibach kit tonight or tomorrow. I've already replaced UCAs myself so I'm somewhat familiar with the area.
My question is, if I'm just replacing an existing coilover, it seems like all I would need to do is make sure the break lines are preserved and that the LCA can drop down enough to slide the coilovers out and back in.
I shouldn't need to touch the KDSS, correct?
THanks
My question is, if I'm just replacing an existing coilover, it seems like all I would need to do is make sure the break lines are preserved and that the LCA can drop down enough to slide the coilovers out and back in.
I shouldn't need to touch the KDSS, correct?
THanks
Jivewalker
Member
You will have to unbolt the sway bar end links at the LCA. Place a bottle jack under the piston before unbolting, then lower it a little to clear the LCA. Reverse to line the bracket back up. Warning, the sway bar bracket bolts are very easy to crossthread!!!
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Thank you for the reply. I take it that's the only way to get enough room to pull the coilover out. Yes?
Follow up question. If you were going to do the install over two days.. would you do the rear first or the front?
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C
Crikeymike
Guest
Do the harder part first - the front. ONE SIDE AT A TIME, so you can reference the other side if you need to.
Then the rear. Rear only takes an hour or so.
You can struggle and pull them out possibly without removing the LCA, but it's such a pain in the ass that it's really not worth trying it that way. Requires more pry bars, busted knuckles and arm strength.
I've seen people lift the entire front end and others leave the passenger side on the ground while doing the install on the drivers side. Which is fastest/easiest?
I won't get started until after 5 so I may do the rear and then work on the front tomorrow and Saturday.
Jivewalker
Member
Yes, you have to un bolt the sway bar end link.
My advice is to have a helper to pry the LCA down while you thread the coilover through. I did it by myself and it was a lot of work. I used my leg to hold the pry bar on the LCA down and slipped the new shocks up through the springs.
If you are replacing full assemblies, then it would be much easier by yourself. AS stated above, do the fronts first one side at a time, and then the rears. It took me about 4-6 hours by myself.
Just did my lift with 6112/5160, bilstein b12 1.5 rear coils and biltein b12 650b front coils. For me, detaching LCA arm and lower bushing was the easiest, that plus loosening the LCA alignment tabs. I did remove the kdss end bracket, one side at a time and i used a ratchet strap on the kdss piston. Getting the kdss bar to align on the brackets was super easy, i used an adjustable clamp. one end over the end of the kdss bar and other end on the lower shock bracket and a small punch. Super easy.
I was going for 2" front and 1.5" rear lift but, damn, it looks much higher than that. Front at circlip #4 both sides. Will the suspension "settle" or "break in". I really dont want to redo everything to move the circlip down. I like my weekends.
I was going for 2" front and 1.5" rear lift but, damn, it looks much higher than that. Front at circlip #4 both sides. Will the suspension "settle" or "break in". I really dont want to redo everything to move the circlip down. I like my weekends.
DragonRunner
New member
Maybe I can hit you up with a PM / phone call before I do damn near an identical lift. May I ask why the B12 front coils, if the 6112 comes with matched coils? Did the B12 rear measure out to 1.5” after all? Did you mount the rear resi to the truck or shock?
Jesse1983
5th Gen Moderator
fwiw - he didn't have kdss
Right, but the write up for KDSS references his write up and all of the pics are gone. The KDSS writeup was saved as a PDF here, so I was hoping his was as well
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